I have a Rev. A iMac that I've been thinking of upgrading to OS X (Panther). Currently its base configuration (G3-233, 32MB RAM, 2MB Video RAM, 4GB 4400RPM hard drive).
Unfortunately, the computer's long-unused CD-ROM drive seems to now have stopped working. Upon inserting a disk (Panther installer, Lens cleaner), the CD spins up, making an odd muffled clicking sound. The disk then seems to stop spinning and, after a pause, the computer pops up a message asking to initialize the disk.
When I looked in the drive tray itself, it seemed extremely dusty. I tried to brush as much of it off as I could, but it had no effect. The lens itself also seems to be in the same position (stuck on the outer edge) every time I open the tray, whereas before it would more often be loosely in the middle. Does anyone know how I can get the drive working again?
Also, if I do, does anyone know how much RAM Rev. A's can actually take? The Apple site says 128MB for Rev. A and B, but the page contradicts that one paragraph down. I've seen people say it can take 192, 256, 384, and 512. Does anyone know?
I realize I'm asking a lot (especially now looking back on how much I wrote), so thanks for any help anyone can give me.
Full Version: iMac (Rev. A) CD Drive Problem
Sorry for the rather depressing sounding URL:
http://www.lowendmac.com/imacs/imac.shtml
The Apple specs indicates it will only go up to 128.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?ar...ous%7C163949329
The CD-ROM is probably toast. If it doesn't seem to work anymore it probably wont.
http://www.lowendmac.com/imacs/imac.shtml
QUOTE
RAM: 32 MB, expandable to 384 MB* using two DIMM sockets (256 MB on top, 128 MB on the bottom), uses same SDRAM SO-DIMM as PowerBook G3, top DIMM socket accepts 2" DIMM, bottom socket takes 1.5" DIMM.
* The exact amount a Rev. A-D iMac can be upgraded varies from unit to unit. We have field reports of some models accepting 256 MB modules in both memory socket and reaching 512 MB -- and other reports of early iMacs that won't work at all with 256 MB modules. There appears to be no way to know in advance whether a particular iMac will work with a certain sized memory module.
* The exact amount a Rev. A-D iMac can be upgraded varies from unit to unit. We have field reports of some models accepting 256 MB modules in both memory socket and reaching 512 MB -- and other reports of early iMacs that won't work at all with 256 MB modules. There appears to be no way to know in advance whether a particular iMac will work with a certain sized memory module.
The Apple specs indicates it will only go up to 128.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?ar...ous%7C163949329
The CD-ROM is probably toast. If it doesn't seem to work anymore it probably wont.
To be honest, you'd be better looking at a newer slot loading iMac.
By the time you bought memory (it uses laptop style SoDIMMs) and got a new optical drive (and probably bought a bigger HDD), you'd have been able to buy a newer slot loading iMac that is supported in Tiger, has better graphics, is much faster and uses standard PC100 / 133 DIMMs.
Factor in selling your current iMac, and the equation seems even more weighed towards a new machine as opposed to upgrading.
By the time you bought memory (it uses laptop style SoDIMMs) and got a new optical drive (and probably bought a bigger HDD), you'd have been able to buy a newer slot loading iMac that is supported in Tiger, has better graphics, is much faster and uses standard PC100 / 133 DIMMs.
Factor in selling your current iMac, and the equation seems even more weighed towards a new machine as opposed to upgrading.
My reason for upgrading it would be that I already had it and a copy of Panther sitting around and would like to get some use from them, rather than just having the computer collect dust in a corner. As for selling it, I think I'd have a hard time parting with it, especially since it was the first computer I actually owned.
Oh, well. Thanks for your help, everybody.
Oh, well. Thanks for your help, everybody.
Success! I've managed to get the drive working again, and I've decided to post instructions for anyone who ends up with the same problem in the future. Please be aware: this, for all intents and purposes, sounds like the single most dangerous solution you could possibly imagine, and I have no doubt it is.
Please do not try this procedure unless you are at the point of actually getting on eBay to find replacement drives, as I have no doubt this procedure could do real, definate harm.
Also, this is only tested on a tray-loading iMac with the lens stuck against the outer edge of the tray. If your lens is stuck elsewhere, this might be far less successful (and possibly far more harmful).
Materials: iMac 233 Bondi, Rev. A (though, presumably, this should work on any tray-loading iMac CRT, as they all use the same drive); one paper clip, unfolded (restart button-style);
Procedure:
1.) Turn off the computer and unplug the power cord from the back.
2.) Using the unfolded paper clip, press the emergency CD ejector on the CD drive. The CD tray should pop open.
3.) Insert the paper clip into the small hole on the right hand side of the lens carrier.
4.) Try pulling the lens forward (toward the spindle) slowly and carefully. If the lens is in the furthest position back, this procedure will unlock it and allow it to resume normal functionality.
5.) If the lens is, however, not in the furthest position back (it can be pulled even further away from the spindle), continue pulling the lens with the paper clip until it reaches the midpoint between the spindle and the outer edge of the tray.
6.) Close the CD drive.
7.) Plug in the power cord and start the computer. Those familiar with early Mac CD drives (the Performa 630CD comes to mind for me) will recognise the whir of the motor adjusting the lens in the CD drive. This is an excellent sign.
8.) Test the drive. The best test would be to put in a CD that came with the original iMac, such as the System Restore CD. The CD drive should mount the CD and open it (there is no need to install any software; this is just to test the drive). Try this procedure with non-Macintosh format discs as well (i.e. Audio CDs, etc.). If one of these discs will not load, you most likely have a CD-related extension disabled.
Notes and Conclusion:
While not related, this procedure also shows how to lock the CD drive (use a paper clip to pull the lens all the way to the outer edge until a rather-loud click is heard and the lens will no longer move.
In my case, the lens was not locked, just stuck. To determine if the lens is locked in place, put in a CD. If the drive makes sounds and brings up an initialize disk dialog, it's stuck. If the drive is almost silent and doesn't do anything, it's locked.
Thanks for all your help, everybody. As for me, I'm off to upgrade the RAM (384MB in two low-profile memory sticks seems to be the magic number) and install Panther! Wish me luck!
Please do not try this procedure unless you are at the point of actually getting on eBay to find replacement drives, as I have no doubt this procedure could do real, definate harm.
Also, this is only tested on a tray-loading iMac with the lens stuck against the outer edge of the tray. If your lens is stuck elsewhere, this might be far less successful (and possibly far more harmful).
Materials: iMac 233 Bondi, Rev. A (though, presumably, this should work on any tray-loading iMac CRT, as they all use the same drive); one paper clip, unfolded (restart button-style);
Procedure:
1.) Turn off the computer and unplug the power cord from the back.
2.) Using the unfolded paper clip, press the emergency CD ejector on the CD drive. The CD tray should pop open.
3.) Insert the paper clip into the small hole on the right hand side of the lens carrier.
4.) Try pulling the lens forward (toward the spindle) slowly and carefully. If the lens is in the furthest position back, this procedure will unlock it and allow it to resume normal functionality.
5.) If the lens is, however, not in the furthest position back (it can be pulled even further away from the spindle), continue pulling the lens with the paper clip until it reaches the midpoint between the spindle and the outer edge of the tray.
6.) Close the CD drive.
7.) Plug in the power cord and start the computer. Those familiar with early Mac CD drives (the Performa 630CD comes to mind for me) will recognise the whir of the motor adjusting the lens in the CD drive. This is an excellent sign.
8.) Test the drive. The best test would be to put in a CD that came with the original iMac, such as the System Restore CD. The CD drive should mount the CD and open it (there is no need to install any software; this is just to test the drive). Try this procedure with non-Macintosh format discs as well (i.e. Audio CDs, etc.). If one of these discs will not load, you most likely have a CD-related extension disabled.
Notes and Conclusion:
While not related, this procedure also shows how to lock the CD drive (use a paper clip to pull the lens all the way to the outer edge until a rather-loud click is heard and the lens will no longer move.
In my case, the lens was not locked, just stuck. To determine if the lens is locked in place, put in a CD. If the drive makes sounds and brings up an initialize disk dialog, it's stuck. If the drive is almost silent and doesn't do anything, it's locked.
Thanks for all your help, everybody. As for me, I'm off to upgrade the RAM (384MB in two low-profile memory sticks seems to be the magic number) and install Panther! Wish me luck!
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