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Did he smoke. The fan on that graphics card looks like a smokers fan.

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post-645-0-35421500-1356793701.jpg

http://uk.rs-online....rt-option=Price

I don't know which one to choose :/

I wouldn't want to take a guess either, doing a search for "6.3v 1500uf" on that site brings up some caps but they don't look like the ones on your card, so not sure if the same with different design or completely different

Best waiting for someone who knows about electronics

EDIT - Ebay search brings some closer looking results

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=6.3v+1500uf&_sacat=0&_from=R40

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I wouldn't want to take a guess either, doing a search for "6.3v 1500uf" on that site brings up some caps but they don't look like the ones on your card, so not sure if the same with different design or completely different

Best waiting for someone who knows about electronics

I posted on a forum for electricians, thinking well, electricity, components, it's all the same :D But they ridiculed me lol...

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I posted on a forum for electricians, thinking well, electricity, components, it's all the same :D But they ridiculed me lol...

lol, I edited my post with this from ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=6.3v+1500uf&_sacat=0&_from=R40

They look a closer match but again wouldn't want to guess, the wrong one could finish the card off completely

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^ All that matters is the specs -- picofarads and voltage -- if they match exactly, it's OK.

Exact looks don't count.

There is going to be some variation between electronics manufacturers.

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^ All that matters is the specs -- picofarads and voltage -- if they match exactly, it's OK.

Exact looks don't count.

Tell that to the book :p

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Check digikey, match up the farad rating and be sure that it's voltage rating is equal or higher and,if possible, look for a low ESR one. The spacing looks cramped so be sure to check the data sheet to be sure it'll fit in the existing footprint.

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Also make sure you put them in the right way. There is a long leg and a short leg, the long leg is the positive side. Putting them in the wrong way will break them and possibly other components :)

You should look for a through hole electrolytic (so non ceramic) capacitor of the correct capacitance (measured in Fahrads). That's about all, doesn't really matter what it looks like :)

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Ah, thanks for all the help, guys! :)

Also, Detection, they're now being friendlier.

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Ah, thanks for all the help, guys! :)

Also, Detection, they're now being friendlier.

Ah good, lol, there are always the know-it-all trolls in every forum who greet new members with a baseball bat :)

Looks like with a mixture of advice from here and there you should be good to go then

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Ah, thanks for all the help, guys! :)

Also, Detection, they're now being friendlier.

to be fair, you did ask on the wrong forum ;) I have a master in electronics, if you have any questions, I'll be glad to answer them

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to be fair, you did ask on the wrong forum ;) I have a master in electronics, if you have any questions, I'll be glad to answer them

That would be great :)

Which would you go for as a replacement? They're all radial, and all have a ?20% tolerance:

  1. ?0.33, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 5000h lifetime, 1220 mA ripple current, 4 ?A leakage current
  2. ?0.40, 8x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 3.5 mm lead pitch, 1220mA ripple current
  3. ?0.54, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 3000h lifetime, 1220 mA ripple current, 3 ?A leakage current
  4. ?0.57, 12.5x15 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 5000h lifetime, 1205 mA ripple current, 3 ?A leakage current
  5. ?0.58, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 5000h lifetime, 2180 mA ripple current
  6. ?0.60, 10x16 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 4000h lifetime, 2140 mA ripple current

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That would be great :)

Which would you go for as a replacement? They're all radial, and all have a ?20% tolerance:

  1. ?0.33, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 4 ?A leakage current, 5000h lifetime, 1220 mA ripple current
  2. ?0.40, 8x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 3.5 mm lead pitch, 1220mA ripple current
  3. ?0.54, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 3 ?A leakage current, 3000h lifetime, 1220 mA ripple current
  4. ?0.57, 12.5x15 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 3 ?A leakage current, 5000h lifetime, 1205 mA ripple current
  5. ?0.58, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 5000h lifetime, 2180 mA ripple current
  6. ?0.60, 10x16 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 4000h lifetime, 2140 mA ripple current

Have you measured the existing cap?

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measure the distance between the pins on the old cap, that is the lead pitch. It should be the same if you want the cap to fit. The other specs won't really matter for this case.

Well, the diameter of the cap itself would of course ;)

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Desolder and take out the popped one and take it down to an electronics shop. The good ol' fashion way ;)

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Desolder and take out the popped one and take it down to an electronics shop. The good ol' fashion way ;)

Nearest one is 24 miles away and they shut at 16:30 each day, which is daft for a customer that works full-time.

We'll see what we can do :)

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Nearest one is 24 miles away and they shut at 16:30 each day, which is daft for a customer that works full-time.

We'll see what we can do :)

Ah! Scrap that idea then.

You're in the some predicament as me where any sort of decent shop is to far to get to easily, for some reason i always assume everyone lives on a busy shopping street :p

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Most systems don't post unless there is a video card running.

Wrong, most will indeed post with ot without a vid card. Just guessing or wanting something to be true wont make it happen.

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Check digikey, match up the farad rating and be sure that it's voltage rating is equal or higher and,if possible, look for a low ESR one. The spacing looks cramped so be sure to check the data sheet to be sure it'll fit in the existing footprint.

Pretty much this - this is true for all capacitors. As a matter of fact - the voltage rating doesn't really have a maximum. Although in my experience, the higher the voltage, the bigger the cap - so this does matter within reason :laugh:

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That's normal with old PCs; best to get a new one ;)

My vista laptop sucks as well :/ mehh thats why i use the ipad more :p

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Pretty much this - this is true for all capacitors. As a matter of fact - the voltage rating doesn't really have a maximum. Although in my experience, the higher the voltage, the bigger the cap - so this does matter within reason :laugh:

just like inductors, the max voltage/amperage isn't exact. The component may work at 50v even though it's rated at 35v but the lifespan will suffer.

Just be glad the faulty component just had two leads. I had to swap out an 8-SIP package once, not fun.

That's normal with old PCs; best to get a new one ;)

My vista laptop sucks as well :/ mehh thats why i use the ipad more :p

Cheap electrolytic caps tend to fail. If you know what you're doing, 30cents and 15 seconds, you're back on business.

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just like inductors, the max voltage/amperage isn't exact. The component may work at 50v even though it's rated at 35v but the lifespan will suffer.

Oh, fair enough! The more you know. Cheers!

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