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[quote name='HawkMan' timestamp='1356834222' post='595422726']
Samsung Twin RR82FESW1 - Class A+ 139KWh
Samsung Twin RR82HFBC - Class A++ 112KWh

Beko GNE114612W - 455KWh, combined dual door fridge and freezer, this one is high because of dual doors and mostly the freezer part.

and some high quality stuff to compare
[url="http://www.miele.no/no/husholdning/produkter/1278_K_13820_SD-50384.htm"]http://www.miele.no/...20_SD-50384.htm[/url]
390L, 155KWh, Energy class A+
[/quote]

yes, but that is just a fridge, if you are going to compare to what the USA has standard, which is a fridge / freezer combo you need to add on a standalone freezer also...

so say you have a Samsung Twin RR82FDMG1 - at 143KWh then add on a freezer at the same height (just to be equivilent of a USA fridge, which has both almost always) add on a Samsung RZ80FBBB Upright Freezer Freestanding at 327 Kwh.. we are once again at 470 KWh... same efficiency as a samsung fridge in the USA ... seperate is no more efficient then combined

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a fridge/freezer combo is not the same as a fridge. that's a fridge freezer combo.

And if you get a A++ version of the Samsung's then it's 112+255= 367, still 100 less than yours and there are A+++ models to. But the differences are minimal. And over here we pretty much equal 1KWh per year to 1NOK. meaning these would cost less than 400 NOK per year to run. but at current power prices it's less than half that (and this is the highest it's been all year)

Either way, it's so little over a year it's not where you're saving money.

want to save money then
- use less hot water
- short showers, turn off the water when soaping
- use energy efficient heating like heat pumps.
- close the fridge and freezer doors as fast as possible, set freeze in mode on the freezer the day before big shopping(or manually turn it down to -24)
- Use the dishwasher, don't hand dish. and don't rinse plates before putting in dish washer(especially don't rinse with hot water, both because you're wasting hot water, and because you're making any egg based food/sauce stick to the plate so it won't go away)
- hang clothes for drying instead of dryer. and use low temp and quick program when possible.


Personally, power is cheap, and I have power at spot price(meaning I get the lowest current price and it changes immediately when the power company has to change), so my power bill varies from as low as under 1200NOK in summer when the power is at it's cheapest and no heating is on, to at worst with the most expensive power and heating in winter it was up to 2500NOK last year, I think I've barely topped 2000 on a month this winter so far but it's been a generally mild winter. Basically everything here is one, form computers to consoles.

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[quote name='HawkMan' timestamp='1356838477' post='595422774']
a fridge/freezer combo is not the same as a fridge. that's a fridge freezer combo.

And if you get a A++ version of the Samsung's then it's 112+255= 367, still 100 less than yours and there are A+++ models to. But the differences are minimal. And over here we pretty much equal 1KWh per year to 1NOK. meaning these would cost less than 400 NOK per year to run. but at current power prices it's less than half that (and this is the highest it's been all year)

Either way, it's so little over a year it's not where you're saving money.

want to save money then
- use less hot water
- short showers, turn off the water when soaping
- use energy efficient heating like heat pumps.
- close the fridge and freezer doors as fast as possible, set freeze in mode on the freezer the day before big shopping(or manually turn it down to -24)
- Use the dishwasher, don't hand dish. and don't rinse plates before putting in dish washer(especially don't rinse with hot water, both because you're wasting hot water, and because you're making any egg based food/sauce stick to the plate so it won't go away)
- hang clothes for drying instead of dryer. and use low temp and quick program when possible.




Personally, power is cheap, and I have power at spot price(meaning I get the lowest current price and it changes immediately when the power company has to change), so my power bill varies from as low as under 1200NOK in summer when the power is at it's cheapest and no heating is on, to at worst with the most expensive power and heating in winter it was up to 2500NOK last year, I think I've barely topped 2000 on a month this winter so far but it's been a generally mild winter. Basically everything here is one, form computers to consoles.
[/quote]

In the USA we call a combo still a refigerator because its standard to have a freezer in the fridge... only when it's a "standalone fridge" do we state that or a "Standalone freezer" else it's a fridge (a combo)...that's just how it's always been... just look at this page... [url="http://www.lowes.com/Appliances/Refrigerators/_/N-1z11pmd/pc"]http://www.lowes.com/Appliances/Refrigerators/_/N-1z11pmd/pc[/url] notice, everything is called a refigerator...

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Posted

STOCKED FULL OF MEAT AND DRANK!!!
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Posted

My fridge is fully stocked because you never know when zombies are g
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[quote name='HawkMan' timestamp='1356826388' post='595422466']


firstly that's a temperature setting, unless your fridge is from like the 50's. secondly it should be set to 4 unless your fridge setting is wrong, put a thermometer in it, and set it to whatever setting gives it 4 degrees Celsius inside. in fact it's likely that when you turn "down" the fridge, you're actually setting it colder and this using more energy. depend on the manufacturer though.

either way you shouldn't adjust the setting based on the amount of food, it should be adjusted to whatever setting gives you 4 degree celsius.
[/quote]

The setting is called cooling power, it's not a thermostat. 1 is low cooling power, 5 is high cooling power.

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Posted

Mid way between the two is best. That's how convection works.

To empty and your fridge has to spend it's time cooling to much of the air, to full and there's not enough circulating air to use. Mid way allows for good air circulation plus the cooled goods to act as etc cooling blocks.

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[quote name='HawkMan' timestamp='1356826802' post='595422476']
But for anyone who wants to save energy, the Fridge, freezer and dishwasher are the least of your problem, the one thing that costs you most energy in your house, hot water. (provided you're the one providing the power to the water heater.
[/quote]
Fridges do use a lot of electricity. And oven too. But yes, hot water would use more but you don't need that all the time in every part of the world.

PS: By Fridge, I/we mean "fridge/freezer combo"

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I wonder whatever happened to this:

[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwV4GkniFNo"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwV4GkniFNo[/url]

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Posted

Cost will greatly depend on how often and how long you have the door open also how often you change the contents.Both scenarios affect the temperature of the air contained within the fridge/freezer and thus how often the compressor has to run.You can have the most efficient unit but if you are continually doing any of the above then the costs will increase dramatically compared to a poorly rated unit that is only used once or twice a day.

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[quote name='z0phi3l' timestamp='1356825359' post='595422434']
I'm not a Hippy, things like this don't bother me
[/quote]

I laughed

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[quote name='spikey_richie' timestamp='1356858337' post='595423040']
The setting is called cooling power, it's not a thermostat. 1 is low cooling power, 5 is high cooling power.
[/quote]

only if your fridge is 30 years old.

even fridges that "just" use cooling power as you call it has a rudimentary thermostat, it's just not a calibrated thermostat.

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Posted

Probably makes no noticeable difference, empty = quicker to cool but quicker to warm up, full = longer to cool but longer to warm up

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[quote name='Crimson Rain' timestamp='1356861211' post='595423074']
Fridges do use a lot of electricity. And oven too. But yes, hot water would use more but you don't need that all the time in every part of the world.

PS: By Fridge, I/we mean "fridge/freezer combo"
[/quote]
less than 400 for a freezer and fridge for a year is not a lot of electricity, it's a drop in a very big bucket compared to everything else in your house.

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[quote name='HawkMan' timestamp='1356878074' post='595423238']
less than 400 for a freezer and fridge for a year is not a lot of electricity, it's a drop in a very big bucket compared to everything else in your house.
[/quote]

My entire house uses around

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Posted

:) http://www.sunfrost.com/refrigerator_features.html

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[quote name='Detection' timestamp='1356878187' post='595423240']
My entire house uses around

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[quote name='neufuse' timestamp='1356881790' post='595423304']
your PC uses that much? wow... my i5 ivy bridge system which as SSD's and RAID storage systems uses a whole 13 cents a day in electric... might want to get a more efficient PSU and better CPU / Chipset
[/quote]

Corsair TX950
Crosshair V Formula 990FX Chipset

CPU is getting on a bit now, Phenom II 965 X4 @ 4GHz

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[quote name='HawkMan' timestamp='1356877816' post='595423232']


only if your fridge is 30 years old.

even fridges that "just" use cooling power as you call it has a rudimentary thermostat, it's just not a calibrated thermostat.
[/quote]

It's a 5 year old fridge freezer actually. And i didn't say it was calibrated to +/- 0.1

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[quote name='Detection' timestamp='1356882417' post='595423314']
Corsair TX950
Crosshair V Formula 990FX Chipset

CPU is getting on a bit now, Phenom II 965 X4 @ 4GHz
[/quote]

ah, not the most efficiient PSU and a power hungry CPU... your PSU is less then 90% efficient, I switched all my PSU's to Kingwins, drastically more efficient, don't even need fans because they run so cool due to the efficinecy

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[quote name='neufuse' timestamp='1356883725' post='595423336']
ah, not the most efficiient PSU and a power hungry CPU... your PSU is less then 90% efficient, I switched all my PSU's to Kingwins, drastically more efficient, don't even need fans because they run so cool due to the efficinecy
[/quote]

Never heard of Kingwins before, I just assumed my power usage was pretty standard for a decent spec PC, might look into a better PSU at some point if it will make such a big difference

Would be nice to not spend most of my spare cash on electrickery :)

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[quote name='Detection' timestamp='1356884175' post='595423356']
Never heard of Kingwins before, I just assumed my power usage was pretty standard for a decent spec PC, might look into a better PSU at some point if it will make such a big difference

Would be nice to not spend most of my spare cash on electrickery :)
[/quote]

They are mfg really nice, the modular ones work great. My old X58 i7 used 250 watts idle, when I researches ivy bridge I went with the most efficient parts I could buy and my idle wattage is 35 watts, maxes out at 90 watts when running at 100% and full GPU usage...
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[quote name='neufuse' timestamp='1356884700' post='595423380']
They are mfg really nice, the modular ones work great. My old X58 i7 used 250 watts idle, when I researches ivy bridge I went with the most efficient parts I could buy and my idle wattage is 35 watts, maxes out at 90 watts when running at 100% and full GPU usage...
[/quote]

I don't have any way to measure what mine pulls, but 90w would be very nice, I have higher rated lightbulbs lol (actually they are in a draw, I try to save where I can and use energy saving bulbs everywhere)

I do fancy a modular PSU next anyway so good excuse to upgrade, this TX950 puts Medusa to shame

Thanks for the tip, goes to show there is always more to learn with PCs :)

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[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]If you are not counting the initial energy required to cool down the items you place in a fridge, then I say it more efficient for a full fridge. [/font][/size]

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]To make a crude generalization, The heat transfer is largely absorbed by the fridge via convection (as opposed to conduction or radiation), the heat transfer is given by[/font][/size]

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]q=hA(?T) where h is the heat transfer coefficient, A is the surface area of the body, and ?T is the temperature difference between the body and its surrounding. Now the only thing that will be a variable between these two situations will be the heat transfer coefficient h. [/font][/size]

[font="arial, helvetica, sans-serif"]A fridge full of stuff is more likely to transfer heat into the fridge via conduction and convection.[/font]
[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]A fridge empty is more likely to transfer a significant portion of heat in via convection (cuz its empty) and some [/font][/size][font="arial, helvetica, sans-serif"]conduction (dont forget the metal and glass innards of the fridge).[/font]

Before a heat transfer analysis becomes overly complex, I will just cut to the chase.

A fridge full of stuff will stay colder longer because you have to deal with the fridge slowly heating the inner edge of the fridge first. After that, consider the mass of air (empty fridge) vs the mass of solids and liquids (full fridge). The heat transfer between the fridge and an empty inside will be a quicker process because the mass of air is significantly smaller than the mass of the solids and liquids, thus heating up more quickly.

I'm gonna end it here, but you can see where the analysis of this situation is headed. Become a mechanical engineer if this type of problem piques your interest and specialize in heat transfer.

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