37 posts in this topic

Welp, I switched to the other power supply.  It has a phone in and phone out, but no antenna in/out, like I thought it had.  It says "line fault protection" on it, but thats it.  Now that my fan and pc are plugged into it, instead of the old crappy surge bar, I still get the USB disconnect issue.

 

So either its not a real filtering bar, or the filtering isn't the issue.

 

Also, my speakers play a loud click-pop-click every time I turn on/off my PC.  The speakers are on their own separate amp, and I leave it on.  Would a proper filtering power bar (if the one I have isnt a filtering one) fix that issue too, or is that just because my sound card decides to send a loud bass click every time it turns on, and there's nothing a filterer can do about it?

 

Cause its loud enough that every time I turn on my PC, my cats run out of the room.

 

EDIT:  The new power bar in question is a Kensington K62156:

 

K62156-3231.jpg

 

According to the PDF I just linked, it says the power bar that I am now using has "EMI/RFI Noise Filtration".

 

So either it is a scam, and doesn't actually contain any EMI filtration, or an EMI filterer isn't what I need to fix the USB disconnect issue.

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Have you installed the latest drivers for the fridge?

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:rolleyes:

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Welp, I switched to the other power supply.  It has a phone in and phone out, but no antenna in/out, like I thought it had.  It says "line fault protection" on it, but thats it.  Now that my fan and pc are plugged into it, instead of the old crappy surge bar, I still get the USB disconnect issue.

 

So either its not a real filtering bar, or the filtering isn't the issue.

 

Also, my speakers play a loud click-pop-click every time I turn on/off my PC.  The speakers are on their own separate amp, and I leave it on.  Would a proper filtering power bar (if the one I have isnt a filtering one) fix that issue too, or is that just because my sound card decides to send a loud bass click every time it turns on, and there's nothing a filterer can do about it?

 

Cause its loud enough that every time I turn on my PC, my cats run out of the room.

 

EDIT:  The new power bar in question is a Kensington K62156:

 

K62156-3231.jpg

 

According to the PDF I just linked, it says the power bar that I am now using has "EMI/RFI Noise Filtration".

 

So either it is a scam, and doesn't actually contain any EMI filtration, or an EMI filterer isn't what I need to fix the USB disconnect issue.

 

 

I would have thought the above bar would have cleaned up any EMI on the line apparently not but then you say your speakers also give a loud click pop click when you turn on you PC which leads to the conclusion your earthing is crap call an electrician to sort out your bad earth wiring  

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I would consider moving something to another room, or at least to another part of the room.

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I would have thought the above bar would have cleaned up any EMI on the line apparently not but then you say your speakers also give a loud click pop click when you turn on you PC which leads to the conclusion your earthing is crap call an electrician to sort out your bad earth wiring  

 

So I just tested the outlet with a little yellow outlet tester... the ground is fine, but the hot and neutral are reversed.  So that's why I get an electrical shock if I touch the metal casing of a recessed lighting fixture when I'm changing a lightbulb with the switch turned on.  Don't know if that has anything to do with my issue though.

 

I should probably mention the loud click pop click only happens when the speakers are actually plugged into the sound card.

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Some device in or attached to your PC has **** decoupling or EM immunity. 

 

I'm an expert at making this happen unintentionally. We've designed power supplies at work that have shut off laptops, on battery power from 25ft away. Hell... We freeze up our really nice Agilent power meter all the time.

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Some device in or attached to your PC has **** decoupling or EM immunity. 

 

I'm an expert at making this happen unintentionally. We've designed power supplies at work that have shut off laptops, on battery power from 25ft away. Hell... We freeze up our really nice Agilent power meter all the time.

 

You've designed an EMP!  You should keep that design... you never know when it might come in handy...

 

So I have no idea what the fark decoupling is, and I can take a guess what EM immunity is.  Ultimately, I guess it's just a case of disconnecting parts until I find the faulty one.  Probably the sound card itself.  It's an ooooooollld Sound Blaster Audigy.  Yeah Audigy.  Not Audigy 2 or ES or Z or X or Live or whatever the fark.  And there's drivers for it in Windows 8.

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I bought a Husky Stella Artois mini fridge (48 liters I think) and whenever it clicks off (when it reaches the desired temperature), my computer makes the "Device Disconnect" sound.

 

When it was connected to the same "power strip" as my PC, my second and third monitors would stop working temporarily.

 

It's on the other side of the room and it's got it own dedicated socket in the wall. Now I only get the "Device Disconnect" sound. Nothing seems to have stopped working on my PC that I can tell.

 

This happens every time the fridge clicks off, which is roughly twice an hour.

 

Any ideas?

I know this is very old but I'd figure that I tell you the reason and for anyone else having trouble with this, Its not your outlet and its not your power strip but its your circuit. Now you say circuit well what the hell is that, okay well every house has an electrical panel usually grey and usually the thing people go to when a "breaker pops" and your mother or father or who ever tell you to flip it back on well that is your electrical panel and the black thing that you're flipping that is your breaker. Okay now were getting to the GOOD stuff, each one of those breakers controls a circuit Now a circuit is everything on that breaker meaning the electrical wire that they ran from your electrical panel to power your outlets and lights thats one circuit. OK great now you say thanks for the lesson on all that crap whats the answer to my question as to why you're explaining all this and tell me why you're saying its my circuit... Well basically there are too many things on your circuit meaning you have too many things plugged in on that circuit. (When I mean plugged in I'm not just talking about outlets don't forget your lights and ceiling fans and all that jazz can be on that circuit too) . Usually its because when electricians wire up houses they cut corners to save materials, so what they probably did was ran 3wire from that breaker and wired or spliced together too many rooms. A standard circuit on a 15amp breaker on 14,2 wire can handle roughly 10outlets (Remember lights and fans too). Any more than that the Circuit is over loading this is a very BAD thing so if you ever lost power on that circuit basically its preventing a fire so to stop it the breaker "pops." Now you say great.... how do i fix this.. well for starters you can find out whats on your circuit by shutting your outlet's breaker off and take a look around your house see what turns on and what outlets have power, you can do this with ease by using a phone charger and hooking up your phone to see if it gets juice. If you have more than 15 outlets and lights out thats very bad but if you take a look around and say hey theres only 10 outlets and lights on this circuit WTF. Now either theres a break in that electrical wire somewhere which is common OR the most common thing is you have something on that circuit thats drawing a lot of amps perhaps an air conditioner or a mini fridge or a lava lamp LOL idk..  but you gotta take that stuff off that circuit and put it on a different circuit, Thats why i said shut your breaker and check to see whats out and whats not, anything thats not out is on a different circuit. Try that and if you no longer have the problem with your mouse then bingo you solved the problem with a quick fix. But if they're a lot of things plugged in on your circuit like 15 + outlets and lights and fans ACs...  hire an electrician and have him run you a couple new electrical lines (wires). <----------- Thats what you're probably going to have to do so that you have no issues with electric in your house. Like I said you don't want a fire. 

Well I hope this helps anyone who has this problem.

                   ~TriggaTrev~

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It's a North Korean Spy!

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I know this is very old but I'd figure that I tell you the reason and for anyone else having trouble with this, Its not your outlet and its not your power strip but its your circuit. Now you say circuit well what the hell is that, okay well every house has an electrical panel usually grey and usually the thing people go to when a "breaker pops" and your mother or father or who ever tell you to flip it back on well that is your electrical panel and the black thing that you're flipping that is your breaker. Okay now were getting to the GOOD stuff, each one of those breakers controls a circuit Now a circuit is everything on that breaker meaning the electrical wire that they ran from your electrical panel to power your outlets and lights thats one circuit. OK great now you say thanks for the lesson on all that crap whats the answer to my question as to why you're explaining all this and tell me why you're saying its my circuit... Well basically there are too many things on your circuit meaning you have too many things plugged in on that circuit. (When I mean plugged in I'm not just talking about outlets don't forget your lights and ceiling fans and all that jazz can be on that circuit too) . Usually its because when electricians wire up houses they cut corners to save materials, so what they probably did was ran 3wire from that breaker and wired or spliced together too many rooms. A standard circuit on a 15amp breaker on 14,2 wire can handle roughly 10outlets (Remember lights and fans too). Any more than that the Circuit is over loading this is a very BAD thing so if you ever lost power on that circuit basically its preventing a fire so to stop it the breaker "pops." Now you say great.... how do i fix this.. well for starters you can find out whats on your circuit by shutting your outlet's breaker off and take a look around your house see what turns on and what outlets have power, you can do this with ease by using a phone charger and hooking up your phone to see if it gets juice. If you have more than 15 outlets and lights out thats very bad but if you take a look around and say hey theres only 10 outlets and lights on this circuit WTF. Now either theres a break in that electrical wire somewhere which is common OR the most common thing is you have something on that circuit thats drawing a lot of amps perhaps an air conditioner or a mini fridge or a lava lamp LOL idk..  but you gotta take that stuff off that circuit and put it on a different circuit, Thats why i said shut your breaker and check to see whats out and whats not, anything thats not out is on a different circuit. Try that and if you no longer have the problem with your mouse then bingo you solved the problem with a quick fix. But if they're a lot of things plugged in on your circuit like 15 + outlets and lights and fans ACs...  hire an electrician and have him run you a couple new electrical lines (wires). <----------- Thats what you're probably going to have to do so that you have no issues with electric in your house. Like I said you don't want a fire. 

Well I hope this helps anyone who has this problem.

                   ~TriggaTrev~

I've moved out since but thank you for your post - I've learned a lot! :)

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I've moved out since but thank you for your post - I've learned a lot! :)

You're very Welcome and I'm glad I was able to teach you and maybe others.  :D

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