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Question about pre-terminated cat6 cables


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#16 Shadrack

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Posted 30 July 2013 - 22:49

Agreed - I shouldn't think it makes a blind bit of difference unless it's A on one end and B on the other?

 

Yes.  It wouldn't make any difference.  If it is an ethernet card or switch made after ~2005 (I think..maybe earlier than that), then even if the cable is crossed over the ethernet card or the switch will sort it out.  You really don't need crossover cables anymore except to support old equipment.  If you want to link two ethernet cards together without a switch the autosense capabilities of the equipment should sort it out with any standard cable or cross-over cable.




#17 Top Qat

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 12:31

I know this is probably not entirely relavent now but I thought I would mention it anyway.

Pulling CAT6 cables can lead to problem. The solid core can break if too much force is used. See points 6 and 7 here http://www.cat6.com/...osanddonts.aspx

Unless you have a specific requirement for CAT6 then CAT5e will be better for long pulled runs, the braided core is less prone to damage.

#18 The_Decryptor

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 12:49

What HawkMan said on the last page abount latency is quite important, Wireless works in a fundamentally different way to wired networks, and you'll have issues with latency and speed if you overload a link (The "300Mbps" reported by the router might be the total, so 2 clients would only get 150Mbps, 3 100Mbps, 4 75Mbps, etc.)

Yes.  It wouldn't make any difference.  If it is an ethernet card or switch made after ~2005 (I think..maybe earlier than that), then even if the cable is crossed over the ethernet card or the switch will sort it out.  You really don't need crossover cables anymore except to support old equipment.  If you want to link two ethernet cards together without a switch the autosense capabilities of the equipment should sort it out with any standard cable or cross-over cable.


I was told years ago that it was basically a part of the gigabit spec, so any gigabit adapter does auto-sensing.

#19 sc302

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 13:10

I know this is probably not entirely relavent now but I thought I would mention it anyway.

Pulling CAT6 cables can lead to problem. The solid core can break if too much force is used. See points 6 and 7 here http://www.cat6.com/...osanddonts.aspx

Unless you have a specific requirement for CAT6 then CAT5e will be better for long pulled runs, the braided core is less prone to damage.

That is true for all cable, pull too hard and you will break the cable.  That isn't limited to cat6.  You generally run solid core in walls, you wouldn't run braided usually unless they are for patch cables.  As usual both have advantages and disadvantages.  Supposedly you will have a better signal with solid core vs stranded and stranded is supposed to hold up better to the folding or wraping and unwrapping that many do with laptop cables when they take them out or put them back into their bags.

 

http://www.cat-5-cab...solid-CAT5.html



#20 episode

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 13:29

Cat6 cables that have terminated plugs on them from the factory, are they in the 'a' or 'b' configuration?  I am planning on running some cables for a small networking project and I am thinking of leaving one of the pre-made plugs on and will just need to use wall plates for the other end.  That means I will be using a punch down tool and I need to make sure that I set it up in the right configuration.

 

Why don't you just look inside the clip?



#21 OP #Michael

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 13:30

Now you all are just playing with me and making me feel bad that this project isn't turning out the way I wanted it too.  Unfortunately without doing some major wall reno it really won't work.  I can easily wire up the older part (built on the full basement with more exposed wire pulls) of the house but that doesn't solve the actual issue of getting the media room wired up which is the farthest room away from the office in the the new part of the house (built on the crawl space with all wire pulls in conduits). 



#22 sc302

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 13:33

You could use moulding or use crown molding to hide the wire coming into the ceiling then run it in the wall down to the jack, if you have access to an attic.  If you can't go under go over.  I can think of a few ways that/can will come out of the sheet rock and back into a hole going down all of which can be hidden by moulding of sorts.





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