Correctly connected ? Case PowerLED


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Thanks..definitely my next case will have a speaker cable :D.. any suggestions :p ?

If it were me, I'd just use the on-board audio. Keeps it simple across the board, and keeps the slot free for something else, use that card on a system that needs it or save it for an "audio emergency." Either that or toss it onto Craigslist or something.

Optionally, if I really liked that audio card, I'd disable the on-board and just use it. Tie off the HD cable so there's no problems, or get/make a patch cable if I really needed that front jack.

Either way, plug that little speaker in (on the speaker jack, not HD...), doesn't affect your sound system, that's primarily to hear your computer crying if it fails POST.

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So no audio on front case connectors..

No speaker for hardware failure..

 

Antec One Case (2012 model) & Asus H87-Pro (2013 model) = Great! :(

 

You don't need speakers for hardware failure.

 

Most modern mb have lights for that. Sorta like the 360 RRoD ;)

 

As for front case audio the last time i used it there was case fans noise in the mic. Since then i always buy USB headsets coming with their own sound card. Some of the expensive ones come with actually really good usb sound card.

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Heh we were all first timers at one point. My first build wayyyyyy back, mixed up 5 and 12 volts. Oooo blue smoke. That can't be good.

 

HAHA I know, and im not making fun of him, I just literally LOL'd @ work when I read that.   It's a new one for me, and yes, we were all new at once :)

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Front audio connector has often lower quality compared to the back port... note, you may as well buy a Creative Z OEM, they are quite cheap and the audio difference is notorious, highly recommended.

 

The front audio connector being lower quality is true only if your case uses a cheap cable to route the signal to the front of the computer. They are likely coming from the same DAC on the card, and can't be worse/better quality.

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Zip ties are your best tool. I have 100 pack of them that I got off monoprice for cheap.

Absolutely, those things are super-handy for builders and they're safe. Ran into some guy's system I had to work on a few years back... he literally used those twist ties from a loaf of bread in his. +1 for MacGyver thinking, -1 for not taking the metal in those into account.
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Finally.. I need some more WM suggestions (if possible ~ the cables are pretty short ).

Thanks!

 

I use a few different types of zip ties because they are cheap and available. I'd suggest black for your case, and maybe some tiny ones like 5-6 inch long and some longer ones 8-10 inch long. You can also get velcro reuseable ties as well. You may also like the sticky cable things. due to my poor explaination heres a quick search of what I mean. Mine are 3M I believe and I have one I stuck to my front door that held up a 35lb wreath since Nov 2012 that STILL won't come off, now in the middle of august. https://dx.com/p/adhesive-cable-tie-base-mount-100-piece-pack-20-x-20-x-4cm-138470?tc=CAD&utm_source=GoogleShoppingCA&utm_medium=CPC&utm_content=138470&utm_campaign=327&gclid=CPSf4Zaz67gCFdBcMgodcXUAQQ

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I've used zip ties on the other side..useful indeed! Thanks..

but I also have 2 more worries below :)

 

* the usb2.0/aafp it's connected with the text oriented to the top of the mobo.

post-18459-0-35397500-1375888276.jpg

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If you don't want to overclock then leave that GPU boost disabled; it ups the frequency and voltage on the card.

As far as the others go, the switch orientation doesn't matter, you're just closing a circuit. The LED's are just like your previous LED question, 50/50 chance of getting it right, just reverse it if it doesn't light up as it should.

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I would not worry about the GPU Boost switch. I once had a board that had it. Never touched it.

 

As for front i/o ports, stop worrying. The most that can happen is it doesn't work. You won't damage your board doing it wrong.

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You won't damage your board doing it wrong.

 

Nice to find out but pretty curious why the manufacturer don't inform the customers with such details :|

 

The LED's are just like your previous LED question,

 

There's also Power and Reset SW..those two made me..anxious.

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Nice to find out but pretty curious why the manufacturer don't inform the customers with such details :|

Usually when it's critical that a connector doesn't go in the wrong way (IE, can result in blue smoke or other bad things) it'll be keyed.. LEDs aren't among those. Building your own really isn't geared towards the "typical" end user though. (In general, not directed any anyone in particular.) Kind of like buying some parts for your car and then hoping for the best getting them in. Easy if you know the routine, but can get messy if you don't. There's a few things expected from the builder that many times isn't printed in the manual.. it's implied you know what you're doing.

There's also Power and Reset SW..those two made me..anxious.

Like I said those just close a circuit, it doesn't matter which way they go in. You could even use a penny to trigger a reset by touching both pins... not that I'd ever recommend that for serious derp reasons.
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Like I said those just close a circuit, it doesn't matter which way they go in. You could even use a penny to trigger a reset by touching both pins... not that I'd ever recommend that for serious derp reasons.

 

I repaired older computers a lot. Sometimes the power button isn't working, so I take the cables off, a flathead screwdriver, and tap the two power pins. Works like a champ.

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