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McDonald?s, a company that pioneered uniform, assembly-line hamburgers, is now experimenting with a somewhat antithetical concept: Custom-made burgers. The chain is currently testing them in Laguna Niguel, California, where diners make selections on an iPad; the burgers cost more than Big Macs, are grilled-to-order, and come with a choice of more than 20 toppings and sauces. The beef patty isn?t cooked until you order, so the sandwich requires extra time to prepare.

It?s a head-scratching departure from the burger-factory model that has allowed the chain to serve food quickly, inexpensively, and profitably. ?It goes against what they stand for: speed, convenience, price, and value,? says Darren Tristano, an executive vice president at food industry consultancy Technomic.

On the other hand, McDonald?s isn?t exactly killing it lately. Same-store sales have slowed in the U.S. (They were up only 0.7 percent last quarter and slowed to 0.2 percent in October.) That?s not all: The chain has been plagued by complaints of  slow service and inaccurate order responses. In response, McDonald?s has tried to pare its sprawling menu and will redesign its drive-thrus next year to shorten waiting times.

A widespread introduction of custom-made burgers wouldn?t help these issues. What it might do, though, is help the chain stay relevant as consumers?twentysomethings in particular?express interest in customization, Tristano says.

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