ashpowell Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 So the electric cut out and when it came back on, I went to boot up my pc but got a CPU overheat warning at bios.. I opened up all the computer, gave it a good clean out in case it was dust or whatnot, tried booting again but CPU rises about 1 degree every 30 seconds or so. It's not overclocked - here's the hardware: Intel core i7-3820 @ 3.6Ghz 4 x 4gb G-Skill Ripjaws X DDR3 2133Mhz Samsung EVO 840 250gb SSD (boot) 1TB Standard HD EVGA NVIDIA GTX 670 FTW Signature Edition 2GB DDR5 Corsair HX750 PSU Corsair h100i water cooler Asus P9X79 Motherboard The fans everywhere are still spinning seemingly as they should Tried to give as much information as possible.. I'd really appreciate any help!! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winrez Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 I would give a close look on the motherboard for bulging or blown capacitors (there might have been a power surge that went along with that event) msr714 1 Share Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decebalvs Rex Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Check your temperatures with different hardware monitoring software like HWMonitor inside Windows. BIOS or your mobo sensors may be writting false reports! If true, disable CPU temp warnings from your BIOS. xrobwx71 1 Share Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xendrome Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Reseat the heatsink/fan, and check the thermal paste, it's probably a concidence that this is happening after the power outage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashpowell Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 I would give a close look on the motherboard for bulging or blown capacitors (there might have been a power surge that went along with that event) Cant see any - all look fine Reseat the heatsink/fan, and check the thermal paste, it's probably a concidence that this is happening after the power outage. Just ordered some more thermal paste.. I'm assuming I can't reseat the heatsink without applying new paste? Check your temperatures with different hardware monitoring software like HWMonitor inside Windows. BIOS or your mobo sensors may be writting false reports! If true, disable CPU temp warnings from your BIOS. I'll try if it lets me boot, I can't get past the Bios warning when it reaches a certain temp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xendrome Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Just ordered some more thermal paste.. I'm assuming I can't reseat the heatsink without applying new paste? You could, it's not optimal, but for testing purposes you can run it without the paste to see if reseating the heatsink stops the increase in temp. Just don't go running prime95 or anything super intensive till you get paste on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winrez Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 I would try to reset the BIOS by using the motherboard's jumper or by unplugging the PC and removing the onboard battery for 15 min. Note: if you do this I would note any BIOS changes you have set that are changed from its default such as hard drive settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashpowell Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Check your temperatures with different hardware monitoring software like HWMonitor inside Windows. BIOS or your mobo sensors may be writting false reports! If true, disable CPU temp warnings from your BIOS. Can't even get it to boot to Windows You could, it's not optimal, but for testing purposes you can run it without the paste to see if reseating the heatsink stops the increase in temp. Just don't go running prime95 or anything super intensive till you get paste on it. The light on the h100i is now fading from blue to white repeating.. never seen it do that before but cannot find anything relating to it online Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashpowell Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 nvm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msr714 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Something's fried, either your PSU or your motherboard, most likely. Sad, but probably true given sudden power outages are commonly the cause of computer catastrophes. Time to get out your wallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashpowell Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Managed to get it to boot to windows - Coretemp reports 100c sooo turned it off. Something's fried, either your PSU or your motherboard, most likely. Sad, but probably true given sudden power outages are commonly the cause of computer catastrophes. Time to get out your wallet. Would the system boot if the PSU is dud? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decebalvs Rex Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Can you reach BIOS to disable warnings and automatic restarts ? I knows its risky but for a few minutes your CPU would handle that temp well enough to resist HWMonitor supervision. I would also mount the stock CPU Intel fan on the mobo and see how it reacts. As far as I know, if your PSU shows signs of weakness or dies it won't send warnings to your BIOS and temperature check would retain normal values. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashpowell Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Can you reach BIOS to disable warnings and automatic restarts ? I knows its risky but for a few minutes your CPU would handle that temp well enough to resist HWMonitor supervision. I would also mount the stock CPU Intel fan on the mobo and see how it reacts. As far as I know, if your PSU shows signs of weakness or dies it won't send warnings to your BIOS and temperature check would retain normal values. I managed to get it to boot to windows and coretemp reports 100c temps for all cores. I've removed the thermal paste from the heatsink and cpu, waiting for both to cool a bit then will attempt seating with no paste (haven't got any atm) to see if temps are any different Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_K Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Yeah it shouldn't get to 100C that quick, sounds like either your PSU had gone and is outputting too high a voltage on the CPU lines or the power management on your motherboard has gone and isn't regulating properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xendrome Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Take the water cooler out of the picture, put a stock heatsink/fan on it and see what happens.. perhaps the pump on the water cooling is dead. msr714 1 Share Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decebalvs Rex Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 100C is wayyy too much for a CPU even without cooling so my best bet is n_K 's status, voltage regulators or bad cooler. If you hold your hand close to your CPU on your mobo, you should feel intense heat if the values are correct! PSU should provide the correct voltage and power to all components, it has protection features. They usually overheat and shutdown when they die so check the PSU box temp with your hand too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidosho Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 I don't get why people assume straight away the PSU. If the PSU was knacked the POWER_GOOD signal wouldn't even be generated. In electronics we start small and work our way up in diagnostics. It could be something as simple as a damaged temperature sensor. They are often NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) diodes, the resistance on them decreases as the temperature rises. If it's failed it'll report 100% straight from cold. If it's built into the CPU the chip will need replacing. Run it for a while with thermal paste on, and everything securely attached. It will shut itself down if the temperature is too hot, you'd be able to feel it by touching the heatsink after leaving it running as long as you can. I see this issue a lot with games consoles. Capacitors also don't have to be visibly damaged to have failed, they dry out internally, in the case of electrolytic caps like PSU ones. Solid state mobo ones don't suffer from dryout. To be safe though, get yourself a good PSU tester, one with an LCD screen, they're the best piece of kit in my toolbox for this kind of job. Decebalvs Rex 1 Share Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashpowell Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 The temp literally starts at around 30c and goes up a degree every 3 or 4 seconds, so It very quickly reaches 100c I dont have a standard cpu cooler to test with... Would I be best to just hand it to a computer shop and let them do the job? Would the bios show the voltage settings correctly to give me an indication if it is a bad PSU? Which would then leave motherboard or cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidosho Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Some BIOS'es do give readings, often under a "PC Health" menu option, it'll show the voltages there. They'll be slightly over the normal voltage, like for example your +12v may show as +12.12v, this is normal, what you don't want is for them to be below. The BIOS can often mis-read voltages though with all components putting a load on the supply, I like to test supplies both in and out of the system, when out of a case I just put a small load on it like one HDD. I then take readings with it in the full system and compare them. Faulty PSU's often break down when under varying loads depending on how faulty they are, so if you have a lot of HDD's or a powerful graphics card and it starts locking up, BSOD'ing or turning off, they're the symptoms. If you've checked all you can without proper tools, yes, take it to a competent shop that deals with electronics. Where do you live? If you're near Manchester UK my firm can help you as we do electronics, home appliances and all consumer electronics as well as just computers, we're a one stop shop :) ashpowell 1 Share Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Warwagon MVC Posted April 7, 2014 MVC Share Posted April 7, 2014 This won't help your current situation, but once you have everything all sorted out invest, in a good UPS "Uninterrupted Power supply" (Battery Backup) ashpowell 1 Share Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snaphat (Myles Landwehr) Member Posted April 8, 2014 Member Share Posted April 8, 2014 The temp literally starts at around 30c and goes up a degree every 3 or 4 seconds, so It very quickly reaches 100c I dont have a standard cpu cooler to test with... Would I be best to just hand it to a computer shop and let them do the job? Would the bios show the voltage settings correctly to give me an indication if it is a bad PSU? Which would then leave motherboard or cooler? If they aren't immediately jumping, I would assume that as a prior post said: the pump is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashpowell Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Cant wait for tomorrow for the delivery of the new thermal paste so will be off to the shops today to pick some up. I've read some posts about air bubbles in the pipes of the cooler or something so going to give them a wiggle and reseat the heatsink.. see how far that gets me. Thanks everyone for your help. I'll report back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashpowell Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 If they aren't immediately jumping, I would assume that as a prior post said: the pump is bad. Ok some progress.. The temperature comes down incredibly fast when i shake one of the pipes on the pump. Going to try giving it all a wiggle round and see if i can get it working until my rma comes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveGreen93 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 It sounds to me like the pump is the problem. Not moving the liquid around the loop which won't be particularly efficient. Try swapping the pumps cable to different 4-pin headers and molex cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashpowell Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 It sounds to me like the pump is the problem. Not moving the liquid around the loop which won't be particularly efficient. Try swapping the pumps cable to different 4-pin headers and molex cable. No luck :/ new one it is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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