Repairing 2004 Oldsmobile Alero

[sc302 Veteran]

Most of the tools needed will be in a mechanics tool kit. 

 

Here are a couple:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_573344-22328-86756___?productId=50200795&pl=1&Ntt=mechanics+tool+kit

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Mechanics-Tool-Set-in-Metal-Box-200-Piece-H200MTSMB/205897981

 

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-236-piece-mechanics-tool-set-and-rolling/p-00948327000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

 

You may need a one off tool outside of this but these are pretty good to get 90% of the work you need done. 

 

Air tools will help make the job easier/quicker but aren't necessary. 

[Xtreme2damax]

I have plenty of ratchets and socket bits. Can't I use any of those or do I need anything special within these toolkits? I'll look into anything else over the months. I just got back from getting more ATF fluid, oil filter and will be ordering the new trans line today.

[sc302 Veteran]

You could probably use what you have.  Not sure exactly what you do or don't have or how extensive it is.  

 

 

[Xtreme2damax]

Alright, I wanted to know what I'd need just to replace the transmission cooler line? From what I could tell I'd need to unhook the hose from the engine block to the radiator to gain some clearance then go in with some kind of wrench. I'm still uncertain where the line runs, I'm thinking it's near the center or on the left (driver) underneath. I originally thought the line was on the right side until someone told me that line is for the AC. I had trouble locating a diagram for this 2004 model. The oil filter looks different than in the video I watched of someone changing oil on a 2003 olds Alero.

[sc302 Veteran]

The line will probably run from your radiator to your transmission somewhere...where exactly, well you will need to look under the car for that and trace it back.   Once under the car, you can determine what the oil filter looks like and what you need to remove it.  You may want to get a good sized channel lock plier to help remove it.  These work great for stubborn oil filters.

[Xtreme2damax]

Alright, thank you.

 

I think at this point I'll be better off asking where I can find a service manual with detailed diagrams for this particular make/model. Couldn't find anything but the basic owner's manual from the manufacturer, no luck searching on google either.

[sc302 Veteran]

Get a Chilton or Haynes manual.  Those are going to be your cheapest options.  You can get a shop manual but that will be a few hundred.  

 

The only one that will be exact will be the shop manual. The other two will be about as precise as I am being. 

 

Could even go to your local library and check out one of these manuals...they won't have shop manuals, unless it is a huge one...Like Sears tower huge.

[sc302 Veteran]

here are the manuals if you wanted to buy

haynes:  http://www.amazon.com/General-Motors-Chevrolet-Oldsmobile-1997-2000/dp/1563925370/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1452175572&sr=8-5&keywords=38026

 

shop manual:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-PONTIAC-GRAND-AM-Oldsmobile-ALERO-Service-Shop-Repair-Manual-SET-BRAND-NEW-/350961734673

 

 

[Xtreme2damax]

Alright, well I suppose that means I can't find it online as a PDF. I'll have a look around and ask a few places if they may be able to locate one for me.

 

Edit: NM, just saw you posted again.

[sc302 Veteran]

Anything is possible, but the probability will be small.   The more popular, or should I say if it were a enthusiast car, the higher the probability.  For instance, I could probably find a mustang or corvette shop manual in pdf form somewhere for every year.  More IT/Computer guys who have car hobbies are going to put these out there for the rest of us.  Hobbyists aren't usually going to be working on family cars for fun.

[#Michael]

I am not sure if there is any value in a restored 2004 alero but if you have the budget this actually sounds like one hell of a fun project.  Good luck to you.

[Xtreme2damax]

^ The issues may be less extensive than I thought so I might not have to put much into it. Monetary value is not important as much as the fact it was my father's car, gifted to him from his father.

 

I found where the transmission coolant line runs from the radiator and hooks to the transmission. Looks like I can get to it from under the hood, I'd have to remove the air intake hose and some other hoses that hook into the engine block from the radiator.

Edited January 7, 2016 by Xtreme2damax

[Xtreme2damax]

I am really thankful for the information provided. I think purchasing a pair of ramps would resolve the dilemma of jacking the car lol. Plus I'd be able to get a better look underneath. This car.. is going to be a pita to jack up. The fibreglass extends up behind the pinch welding. There is a place  about 1 1/2" in width running the length of the front wheel well to the rear. I thought this would be the subframe, I gave it a light tap to see if it sounded like it would be sturdy. It sounded hollow, like thick plastic, most likely more fibreglass. It seems no dice for a jack point under the front wheels. I did find a subframe or some sort of frame on each side of the engine, the metal looks really strong. Maybe I can jack it up there and figure places for the jackstands? The car is front wheel drive btw. 

 

I also located the oil filter and know where the drain plug is. Seems straightforward to do as long as I can get it jacked up or on ramps. I'm going to have to try taking a picture underneath with a phone.

[sc302 Veteran]

shouldn't be too big of a deal to do oil.  Get a good drain pan though.

 

This has been my favorite pan (I have owned a few).  Sometimes I get asked if they can keep it, I say they can if they can keep a knife lodged in between their ribs.

http://www.amazon.com/SUNBELT--Oil-Drain-Plastic-Part/dp/B00EIKSY74/ref=sr_1_28?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1452265141&sr=1-28&keywords=oil+drain+pan

 

There shouldn't be fiberglass deep under the car.  but take a picture and I will circle your sub frames.  and other points that you can use to jack up and/or put the car on stands. 

[Xtreme2damax]

This is what I concluded wasn't the subframe. Doesn't appear to be metal. Sounds hollow when I knock on it. This runs up behind the front wheel well to the rear wheel well. It's difficult to try snapping a decent picture, car sits too low so this is the best I could come up with. As far as I could tell looking up under there is nowhere else to place a jack. The only other place I can think of is the frame under the engine and few other possible points.

 

 

Btw, this is the upper line from the transmission that attaches to the radiator. The lower line is below that big hose.

 

 

Just under these hoses, wires I circled is where the line hooks into the transmission.

 

 

This is the leaking fluid that I've caught.

 

 

 

[sc302 Veteran]

Would need to get a better point of view under. The piece that you thought was fiber glass, is possibly the sub frame

[Xtreme2damax]

I would have to lift the car up somehow. Which prolly means putting it on ramps. There is such a minimal amount of clearance, barely enough to fit my head under so not enough range/fov for a good shot.

 

Edit: That flimsy looking/sounding thing could be the subframe? I knocked on it and it sounds clearly hollow, doesn't appear to be made of metal despite what looks like rust on it.

Edited January 10, 2016 by Xtreme2damax

[sc302 Veteran]

Subframes are usually hollow.  they are usually square stock similar to this:

 

A car with that much rust might be better off not being on the road.  Snow belt states are rough on cars..not because of the snow but because of the harsh salt/sand/calcium mix that they use to keep the roads clear. 

 

[Xtreme2damax]

Well it might not be too bad. It was in a garage to have the A-frame replaced and passed inspection just before it was taken off the road. It's sat parked in the driveway for two years. There is only gravel roadways here and the landlord doesn't use salt on the gravel roadways. The body is still in fairly good shape, a bit of rust and that's it. I may get that touched up down the road. Underneath I expect it to be a bit rusty but I don't think it's undriveable nor any danger of being on the road. My concern is jacking the car up, if that isn't metal and made to hold up to a jack then I have a nice hole underneath. That spot doesn't look like, feel like metal and appears to be hard plastic or fibreglass.

 

Maybe when I can get it up ramps I have a decent enough view to determine proper jacking points. If not, at least good enough to snap a decent picture.  When that time comes I'll post an update.

 

This is the car. That side has more rust/damage than the other. That damage is from some rust, made worse from attempting to jack up underneath. Crappy jack and gravel road doesn't make a good combo. Doesn't help that I didn't have the jack positioned right - I didn't know where to jack it then. So.. crrruuuunnnnnnch went the fibreglass. It's a very good running car and good on gas. Just in need of some relatively minor repairs and touching up. I might have overblown the issues a bit but hey, that's part of the learning process - knowing what to look and listen for. I feel relieved the car is doing what it's supposed to. I'm not diving into something that's beyond my abilities. That's why I'm starting off replacing the hose and doing the oil change, simple maintenance that anyone can do. Once I'm instructed on what to do I don't have any problems. Stuff like this comes naturally to me. Years ago I replaced a thermostat on one of my father's old vehicles.

 

However that vehicle was toast, not because of me, because the engine was junk. The engine was overheating and my father thought replacing the thermostat would resolve that. The problem was apparently more extensive than that.

 

If needed, we have a scrapyard we can go to and pull any parts for this car they might have.

Edited January 10, 2016 by Xtreme2damax

[sc302 Veteran]

being that you can't drive yet, I can only assume that you are in high school.  Sign up for an auto shop class or maybe sign up for one at your community college, they will teach you basics of maintenance and some more in depth stuff if you take the more advanced classes.   They will allow you to use their equipment in their garage to fix/repair your cars or you could give your car to them to "fix". 

[Xtreme2damax]

I'm 32. I never got my license because I had no need to. I relied on public transport or my father to help me get places. I was reluctant to get my license because of the price of insurance, having to look around for an inexpensive vehicle. I was going to get my permit so my father could teach me to drive. I held off too long and now complicated it for myself, my father was the only licensed driver and without him finding someone to teach me is difficult. Luckily I found a local driving school and got tipped off about an individual that offers cheap private lessons. There's a local vocational school that offers adult classes for their courses, so I've been looking into that.

[sc302 Veteran]

It will be money well spent, if you go to the vo-tech route. 

Good luck. 

[Xtreme2damax]

So.. I pretty much figured out jacking points. Found out I can do the transmission line from under the hood but it will be a ***** to do and involve unhooking some coolant hoses. The space I'll have to work with will be incredibly tight so this will be fun trying to get down in there with a wrench or socket. I still don't know what size wrench or socket to remove the nut holding the line to the transmission.

 

As temps were going to drop again I had to get everything together and hold off until spring to do any work. So coolant hoses and everything went back on. Have to burp coolant system but now faced with replacing coolant hoses. After getting everything together, adding antifreeze/coolant and starting the car to burp the air out I noticed the antifreeze in the overflow tank wasn't being drawn into the coolant system. Open the hood up and found the large coolant hoses collapsed flat restricting the flow of antifreeze. Found some other things I'm going to need to take care of, I'm confident in my abilities to do the minor work that needs to be done.

 

I'm going to run into a problem getting under the vehicle. I'm a larger guy that most average guys. The car sits really low and has an air dam on the front. With the ramps I was looking at they won't hold the car up nearly high enough.  I'll barely have room to work. The jacks and stands I currently have won't hold the car up nearly high enough either. Besides, we have a gravel driveway so unless I put something underneath they are prone to sinking/shifting. I tried putting some plywood under neath but doesn't give enough clearance to fit the jack/stands on top. In any case it's best to take it into a shop for any work that needs to be done underneath. I can do wheel bearings and replacing the rear-right trailing arm, oil changes and exhaust will be nigh impossible for me to do.