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What do you drive?


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#2146 Gerowen

Gerowen

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 04:51

Finally got the maintenance sorted out. The dealer offered a plan backed by Ally for almost $4K for 5 years/75K miles. I wasn't keen to taking that on the spot so declined, especially since third party warranties can be a nightmare with exclusions (or so I hear). Found a good price at a MB dealer for the MB direct extended warranty. Paid a little under $3K to push me up to 7 years/100K miles bumper to bumper. Which is great as I learned that the Ally backed plan (VehicleOne) excluded almost all of the electronics in the car...

 

Seems like a good price for the insurance especially since I purchased a former rental car. Also nice to know OEM only parts will be used.

Glad you got it all sorted out, :-)  I purchased a 3rd party extended warranty for my 2006 Ford Explorer, and then the throttle position sensor went out (random acceleration, or random dying, etc.).  I never bothered actually "reading" the warranty, it just came as a package deal with the bank that financed the purchase, but when I tried calling to get that and a number of other small issues fixed over the years, I discovered that the extended warranty only covered the drive train (engine, transmission, differentials, transfer case, and drive shaft components).  None of the electronics, body, suspension, frame, or anything like that was covered.  Wish I'd paid more attention.

 

On a side note, I FINALLY got around to changing the valve seals on my pickup truck.  I've been talking about doing it for a year or so and finally got up with a buddy of mine who has a shop air compressor and changed all of my valve seals.  I've had a leaky one on cylinder 3 for the longest time that would cause a short puff of blue smoke on startup, and I've been talking about changing the valve seals for a year or so and finally got around to doing it.  Also in the process of doing that, I tightened down on my rocker cap screws with a torque wrench set to the factory spec and that eliminated a slight "rattle" I've been hearing for the longest time that almost made the engine sound like a miniature diesel.  One of the push rods probably had a thousandth of an inch of slop where it disengaged the rocker and would then "smack" it when it came back up, and by tearing it all apart to replace the valve seals and re-torquing everything to the factory specs, I eliminated that small amount of play.

 

I'm just really glad I got that one job out of the way before really cold weather hit, I was getting pretty tired of burning an extra quart of oil between oil changes.  I would have taken pictures, but neither me or the guy whose shop I used had ever done it before, and I really didn't want to go taking pictures and videos of any screw ups that happened in the course of doing it for the first time.  We ended up not having any issues except having to fanagle the little valve spring keepers back into position with an extendable magnet rod, which we expected because of the nature of how they work, but it was a really time consuming job (4-5 hours) and once I got elbow deep in my engine bay I didn't feel like digging out the camera to take pictures.




#2147 Draconian Guppy

Draconian Guppy

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 20:02

Started work on re-painting mine today.  Using Krylon Dual Paint+Primer True Blue Gloss.  It was T-boned at one point so the driver's door is actually from one vehicle, and the driver's side fender is from a different one, so the door was green, the fender was silver, and the rest of the truck was blue.  I used my tail-gate as a test bed just to see what it looked like since it's a work truck cause' the tail-gate will get beat up anyway.  Total amount of money spent on the painting job so far, including tape and stuff, about $15.  I had tried re-painting the door/fender with "Dupli Color", but the stuff was bad to splatter and run, and the Krylon seems to work 100% better.

 

All photos can be clicked to enlarge.

 

It's a 1999 Dodge Dakota Sport.  Here's a photo I took today of the front fender on the passenger side to show what it's "supposed" to look like.

th_original-color.jpg

 

Here's what the driver's side looked like a couple of years ago when I first got the truck before I started working on it and fixing it up.

th_DSCF1537.jpg

 

Here's the tail-gate sanded and stenciled with painter's tape.

th_tailgate-sanded.jpg

 

First coat of paint on the tailgate.

th_tailgate-painted.jpg

 

Tried painting the letters by spraying red paint into a bowl and spreading it on with a q-tip, but the paint dried too fast when I tried spraying it into a bowl, so I instead just made a stencil and painted over it.

th_P9210012.jpg

 

Tailgate done and put back on.

th_P9210017.jpg

 

My buddy Wes working the sander and re-discovering the original color of the door.

th_P9210001.jpg

 

Me working the sander for a while.

th_P9210003.jpg

 

Applying paint to the door.  After doing 3 coats on the tailgate, we only had enough to do about half the door, so I'll pick up a couple more cans and blend in to finish the lower half, fender, and the rest of the truck.  The color is close enough that I'm happy so I'll do the door and fender first, but then I'm gonna do the whole rest of the truck cause' the old paint looks pretty rough in places, plus it is a little bit different with a little bit of a glittery effect, so I'm going to re-do the entire truck in this one uniform color.

th_P9210014.jpg

 

Edit: Here's the paint I'm using.

th_P9210012-1.jpg

Dude... every time you post... My car has a couple of bicycle scratches... you make me feel useless :( Would you consider coming down to Honduras, Central america, with material included :p when ever I can afford you :laugh: 



#2148 shozilla

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 18:33

Dude... every time you post... My car has a couple of bicycle scratches... you make me feel useless :( Would you consider coming down to Honduras, Central america, with material included :p when ever I can afford you :laugh:

 

Depends on how deep the scratches are....

 

if they are light scratches, you can buff it out with a buffer or get a touch-up paint kit. 

 

If they are deep scratches, you can sand it down and prime it up, then paint it.. a few times.. then put clearcoat over it. There are videos on how to do this at YouTube.

 

If you want a new color on your whole car, you can get PlastiDip paint... Spray over the current color... and you won't worry about at all. You can find information about plastidip car via Google or YouTube.  Depends on what color you have right now on your car... PlastiDip may have the color that match yours... if so, you can paint one part of the car instead of whole car.



#2149 MrBear5587

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 19:05

2014 Ford Fiesta ST-3
"Race Red"

Standard at the moment. May get the Mountune kit in the future.



#2150 MrBear5587

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 12:21

2014 Ford Fiesta ST-3
"Race Red"

Standard at the moment. May get the Mountune kit in the future.

 

Cleaned this morning :)

29vf3fn.jpg



#2151 Gerowen

Gerowen

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Posted 12 October 2014 - 08:24

For you guys talking about painting / maintaining your vehicles, there's two channels I go to for visual aids when it comes to doing repairs I haven't done before, Eric the Car Guy, and Scotty Kilmer.  Scotty Kilmer can be a bit odd and likes to brag, but his channel is jam packed with easy to follow, short videos on how to do various things.  Eric the Car Guy is more laid back, and his channel is also about cars, but from what I've seen he has less of those 3 minute "How-to" videos and has more in depth discussion style videos.

 

Scotty Kilmer: https://www.youtube....er/scottykilmer

 

Eric the Car Guy: https://www.youtube....r/EricTheCarGuy

 

I am not being paid to endorse these guys, they're just two channels I'm subscribed to that I've found useful.

 

For those asking, "Why do the work yourself when I can pay somebody else?"  Well, unless you take it to the dealership for work, there's a decent chance you'll get screwed.  I've had bad experiences with Jiffy Lube, my family members have had bad experiences with Jiffy Lube and Don't Super Lube stores, and I've seen tons of videos on the internet of people having bad experiences with those chain stores that work on cars.  I've seen them not do jobs but charge the customer as if they'd done it, I've seen them forget to put fluid back into differentials when they had to drain it, I've seen them forget to put bolts back in, etc.  I even had a family member take her car to a place and leave it there 3 or 4 hours to have the transmission flushed.  She called to check on it and the manager told her it was done and to come get it, so she went down there, paid them for the work and left.  After she left, a friend of hers who worked there called her and told her to take it somewhere else and have it done because they hadn't touched her car and were afraid to tell her that when she called.  You don't have to go all out and start buying special tools and changing major components, but things like changing your oil and various fluids are things you can do with a $20 socket set and 20 minutes time, and you can save yourself quite a bit of money.  Changing your oil regularly is probably THE most important single piece of maintenance that you can do to prolong the life of your car's engine, and all you need is one open ended wrench to remove the drain plug and a filter wrench for the oil filter.