FiB3R Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 (edited) In the next month or so, I'll be building my own Joystick. It's main use will be for Street Fighter IV, but obviously it will work with any fighting game / Pac Man :) At first it will only work with my 360 / PC, but I intend to make it work on the PS3 too and possibly even the Wii (all wireless) ^Something along the lines of this^ For now, here's a list of links I have collected on the subject. I really hope this inspires a few of you to give it a go. Info Amazing resource ---> http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/introduction.html http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?...p;topic=51235.0 http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=57402.0 http://www.gamersreports.com/article/24/1/ http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=581887 http://forums.shoryuken.com/forumdisplay.php?f=177 http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=161867 http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=151314 http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=115479 http://deansserver.serveftp.com/~Darren/xbox360.html Images http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/Nit...testick_055.jpg http://www.flickr.com/photos/paintedpale/321739130/sizes/l/ http://www.gamersreports.com/grimages/738/.../1/gr.image.jpg http://www.gamersreports.com/grimages/738/.../1/gr.image.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y239/suit...mrpanda-001.jpg http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/Nit...ax/100_0087.jpg http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/Nit...testick_056.jpg http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4817/xb...joystickap6.jpg http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/8012/img0148ug9.jpg http://img324.imageshack.us/img324/104/stick11jw.jpg http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/8027/012fr3.jpg http://byrdo.org/Photos/Joystick/Albums/Al...rce/Twinz_1.htm http://byrdo.org/Photos/Joystick/Albums/Al...hter_Mini_3.htm http://byrdo.org/Photos/Joystick/Albums/Al...rce/Dizzy_2.htm http://byrdo.org/Photos/Joystick/Albums/Al...2nd_Edition.htm http://byrdo.org/Photos/Joystick/Albums/Al...oshimitsu_2.htm http://byrdo.org/Photos/Joystick/Albums/Al...e/Zangief_1.htm http://byrdo.org/Photos/Joystick/Albums/Al...pp_Hybrid_1.htm http://byrdo.org/Photos/Joystick/Albums/Al...e/Phantom_1.htm Components http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/arcadeparts.htm http://www.arcadeshop.de/product_info.php?...amp;language=en http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/joysticks.shtml http://www.starcab.net/index.php?osCsid=03...b5a9148e094fcde http://www.rickenplayer.com/ Edited February 21, 2009 by DARKFiB3R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emorex Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Just a FYI, I am going to post a guide soon. For the past 6-7 days I have been doing a LOT of research on making a joystick, everything from parts, to size of wood to cut. I will do a write up whenever I have a few minutes to spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiB3R Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Nice one :) The more info I get on this before I start, the better. Look forward to seeing it. Glad to see somebody else at neowin having a go at this :) Anybody else have plans to do the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 I have no confidence in making one myself. If they don't release anymore of the Tournament edition sticks I think I am just going to buy a Hori Real Arcade Pro. 3 and put Sanwa buttons in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emorex Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Alright, thought I would do a quick post here pretty much discussing what I am planning. Ok, so some initial things, I only have a Xbox 360, no PS3. So, I will only need 1 PCB in my joystick. There is no point if I get the Cthulhu board as that is specifically for the PS3. Furthermore, Microsoft has a security device on all controllers, so you CANNOT take a generic controller and plug it into the Xbox 360 and expect it to function as a controller. The only options we have is to route through an existing controller. Existing controllers are either a regular Microsoft Xbox 360 Controller (wired or wireless), Mad Catz, or maybe an existing joystick, like Hori or the recently released Mad Catz Joystick. Now, the best and easiest PCB (the green circuit board that is inside every controller) to work with is the Mad Catz controllers. There are 2 options available, the Mad Catz 4716, which looks like a knock off Microsoft Xbox 360 Controller or the Mad Catz Arcadestick [Figure 1]. Figure 1: Mad Catz Arcade Stick Now, although the Mad Catz are better, I have had NO luck finding these. Looks like others have also realized this and cleaned up every store in my neighborhood. I could wait....but I am too impatient for that. So I just went ahead and bought a Microsoft Wired Controller. If you want to use a Microsoft Wired Controller as well, MAKE SURE you peek through the packaging and the FCC symbol is on the bottom. Furthermore, there should be a recycling bin symbol near the bottom and the side. Refer to Figure 2. This is the only type of Microsoft Wired Controller that has a common ground making your life easier. I will explain common ground further below. Figure 2: Label of Microsoft Wired 360 Controller Ok, so now onto the parts you need. Essentially, you need 2 things. A joystick and pushbuttons. Many people live by the Sanwa JLF, so I decided to get this as well. It has a mounting plate and only 5 outputs, instead of the regular 8. See, joysticks are digital, in that a side is either "ON" or "OFF". It's on when you are pressing on that side, off when you aren't. So if the joystick is pushed right, only the right switch will turn on. Pushed bottom right, the down and right joystick is turned on. So you would expect that each side (UP DOWN LEFT RIGHT) has 2 outputs associated with it, a signal and a ground. This is true most of the time. However, the Sanwa JLF has a PCB that essentially makes all the grounds for the 4 sides, common. So you have 4 signal outputs and 1 ground. This is why the PCB you get has to have a common ground. If you don't, you have to cut trace into the Sanwa JLF's PCB and connect to the different grounds for each side. I also have the option to use a different joystick, like a Happ, that doesn't have a common ground. I would 8 outputs from the joystick, where 4 are ground and 4 are signals. I could use a common ground joystick here, it doesn't matter, but I would have to do 8 solders (or atleast splice and chain 3 grounds to 1 ground). So in conclusion, Common Ground Joystick --> Common ground Controller only. Not Common Ground Joystick --> Any controller (common ground or not common ground). For a better explanation, check out slagcoin. Onto pushbuttons. I chose to buy Happ Pushbuttons. Many people live by Sanwa pushbuttons (specifically OBSN-30). The problem with this pushbutton is that it has a mounting nut that is bigger than the hole the pushbutton goes through. Like, if the hole is 30mm, the mounting nut is like 35mm and the height of the pushbutton is also very small....so essentially, I will have to cut a bigger indentation in the wood. Figure 3 shows the pushbutton so you can see how small it is. Figure 3: Sanwa OBSN-30 Now, imagine you drill a 30mm hole in the wood and the wood is say 1/2" thick. The Sanwa OBSN-30 will NOT fit in there. Why? Because the mounting nut is bigger than 30mm and the button is smaller than 1/2". I HAVE to cut a 35mm hole, but only for part of the wood. This is known as routing and requires a router...which I do not have, so I decided to just go for the Happ buttons. These buttons are 2.61". So, I only need to drill a hole and I can screw the mounting nut underneath the wood, not into the wood. If that doesn't make sense, look at figure 4. Figure 4: Hole for a Sanwa OBSN-30 Also, SF4 only requires 6 buttons. A B X Y LB RB. I will also need a button for Start and for Guide, since the controller will not be turned on without me pressing (and holding) the guide button and start is useful for pausing. Total, 8 pushbuttons. So, in conclusion, I decided to go with a Microsoft Wired 360 Controller (late version), along with a Sanwa JLF for my joystick and 8 Happ Pushbuttons. Next post will be on designing the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiB3R Posted February 21, 2009 Author Share Posted February 21, 2009 How you getting on? I've had to put my plans on hold for a bit :( Got my parts earmarked though 1 x JLF-TP-8YT (Dark Grey) 1 x LB-39 (Green Bubble) 1 x JLF-H 8 x OBSN-30 (Green) 2 x OBSN-30 (White) 3 x OBSN-24 (Green) Not 100% on the colours yet, would like to replace the white buttons with grey ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emorex Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 I purchased the wood yesterday and got it cut this morning. Unfortunately, I have to go to university on Monday and I don't think I can take my case there and paint/sand there. Would make too much of a mess. So, I hope to glue/build the case tonight and I will do the initial priming next Friday or Saturday. My case is going to be 8" x 11" x 3" high. It's kinda high, but that's because of the Happ buttons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killmaster84 Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 I maybe trying this, it's tickled my interest...Plus it can't make me be any worse at SF4 :p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emorex Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Xbox 360. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 That's awesome man. Looks really good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emorex Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Thanks! I really took a lot of shortcuts though...instead of gluing I screwed the woods to each other, you can see the screw heads in the corner. But I don't really care about that, just need something to play the game on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Yea but it works. I love the placement of the start and select buttons. Not going to be hitting those by accident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiB3R Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 Nice mate, good job :) I ordered my parts last night, so should start building it by the end of the week. Think I'm gonna try and take a little more time on the box than you have, hiding the screws and stuff. But that's the beauty of making your own. Now that you have the parts, you can always change the box as many times as you like. I wonder how much these can be sold for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emorex Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 $200, maybe more in this current low stock period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiB3R Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 What's that in real money? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emorex Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 Want me to put it in Euros for you? :p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiB3R Posted March 10, 2009 Author Share Posted March 10, 2009 Euros? :o :x :laugh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lingwo Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 Around ?112 if that was in $200 Canadian dollars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiB3R Posted March 10, 2009 Author Share Posted March 10, 2009 200 USD = 144.4000 GBP (According to Google) So I could round that up to ?150 Worth the time and effort after costs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emorex Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 I think so. The stick is much better to play with than a controller. When my friend comes over we switch back and forth and I cannot even play with the controller. I am really considering making another one. The second one will be a tupperware case though, since it's cheaper and less headaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiB3R Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 I meant, would it be worth making and selling them. That's great to hear though :) I can't wait for my parts to get here, I don't think they have even shipped yet :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emorex Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 I don't think selling them makes a lot of sense if you haven't done a lot of woodworking, like me. It was a pain in the ass really and even now, I kinda wish I made my stick out of tupperware. I may just make a tupperware case in the 2 weeks I have between terms. Dunno if you guys noticed, but the sides (black) is much higher than the center plexi glass...so it really hurts my wrists. I didn't think of this earlier. I also really suck at woodworking so would rather do something a bit simpler, since with tupperware I only have to drill holes...can't be that bad and it only costs $5-10...so it's not much of a loss like this which would be a $60-$70 loss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiB3R Posted March 14, 2009 Author Share Posted March 14, 2009 (edited) I think a Tupperware version would suck. HARD. Wouldn't it be far to light and flexible? Have you seen one built somewhere already? I'm no carpenter, but it wasn't that hard to knock up a box, was it? Definitely noticed the sunken plexi, you should raise that asap. Edited March 14, 2009 by DARKFiB3R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emorex Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Some tupperware sticks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sensurround Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Some tupperware sticks[snipped] That is unbelievably awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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