Zoom7000 Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 I purchased my Vauxhall Zafira B in 2014 (59 plate, registered in 2010). I purchased it from a dealer in Luton. A few weeks in to driving it, I was doing about 15 MPH on my local road and the entire car switched itself off mid-drive! Total loss of power, electrics, everything. Being an automatic, I had to bring the car to a halt, put it in to park and turn the key again in the ignition. Thought nothing of it and carried on. A few months later, the same thing happened again. Once again, travelling at low speed, like 20 MPH and shut off. The third time and fourth time it happened, was when I was coming towards a junction and slowly braking as you do. The car just switched off completely. I took it back to the dealer who said it was an issue with the accelerator pedal. They resolved it and I was on my way. A few months later, same issue. Took it back and they said it was a CIM issue. So, they replaced the CIM and reprogrammed both my keys. A few months later, the very same issue occurred again. I took it back and they said it’s the CIM again. I couldn’t understand why it had gone faulty again, but alas, changed the CIM again, keys recoded and back I went. Lo and behold, it has happened several times again since. Thankfully, it only seems to occur at low speeds, but I definitely don’t want to take the risk of it happening if I’m on the motorway! Not fancying yet another long drive to Luton, I asked a local mechanic to have a look at the fault codes and this is what he found: P1614-50: Wrong Transponder Key P1616-00 CIM (Steering Column Module) Wrong Environment Identifier B3055-00: Transponder Key Problem U2105-00 CAN-Bus No Communication with ECM (Engine Control Module) As soon as he saw the codes, he said you have a faulty CIM. It was only when I told him that they’ve already changed it twice, that he said something else clearly isn’t correct here. Any ideas what could be the cause of my issues and exactly what I can do to fix the problem once and for all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidosho Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 (edited) Sounds like a wiring fault somewhere. I'd have ALL the CAN wiring and connectors checked for continuity, but it's a big job, and may cost a bit. It could be a break in the CANBus lines that's being triggered by certain movement. Hard to tell without seeing the car and running tests on it. Get them to run diagnostics on the BCM and ECM while they're at it. Edited July 26, 2016 by Tidosho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metallithrax Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 Have you seen this? Has yours been checked out? Torolol 1 Share Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom7000 Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 On 26/07/2016 at 1:26 PM, metallithrax said: Have you seen this? Has yours been checked out? Yes, I am aware of that issue. This however, is completely separate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Evil Overlord Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Though I cannot confirm for sure, but on Ford and VW there's a separate relay on the ignition and immobiliser, might be a similar circuit layout. (Ford and VW call it the PCN Relay, not sure what it'll be called on Vauxhall) but next time you take it in to diagnose (assuming it's a Vauxhall main dealer <more expensive, but they have more options under their diagnostic systems>) ask them about it, especially after the fact that you've been back with a persistent fault I've had a golf and a galaxy (sharan) with that same problem described above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nashy Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Given the amount of repairs, I'm going to say there is either a problem in the loom, or more likely a faulty ECM. Does it completely cut out as if you turned the key off, or does it stutter to a stop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Mirumir Subscriber¹ Posted August 7, 2016 Subscriber¹ Share Posted August 7, 2016 I'd have them check the following: - ECM - I'd insist on a full firmware reset and checking the ignition fault codes; - fuses; - wiring. I'd also consider writing a complain letter to VAUXHALL UK. The dealership has been ripping you off. You shouldn't have paid twice for the same job and still be dealing with the problem. Take them to court to reimburse you for all the time, money, and resources (incl. moral damages) they've cost you. They are clearly not qualified enough to get the job done. Or, tell them that you want the car fixed for free because you've paid them enough already. If they don't play ball, you might want to ask VAUHALL UK so that they put some pressure on the dealership (foot the bill) in order to keep you as a satisfied customer. --- Has the car ever been in a car accident? Does it have an after-market car alarm or stereo installed? What's that transponder key for? When was the last time its battery was replaced? Your car doesn't have a "start/stop" button, does it? Is it a diesel or benzene? When was the last time the spark plugs were replaced? Has the ignition system (or the combustion chamber) ever been cleaned? The air intake should be cleaned too and the air filter swapped. The car could simply be lacking oxygen at low RPM's. Danielx64 and The Evil Overlord 2 Share Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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