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  2. Cant be any worse than an orange haired orangutan. Well, technically, the previous one was a genocide, he bombarded a hospital, killing civilians, kids, and innocents, TWICE. Luckily, he never used nukes. So, it's funny how people call the ORANGE MAN BAD a danger without any proof (feelings are not proof). Classic look-over-there-ism I dunno man, if a Trump supporter said that to you when you were trying to make criticisms of Trump, I'd say that's a pretty weak ass argument.
  3. trag3dy

    To build or buy a new PC? [UK]*

    Okay. Well. Good luck. Hope you get help with the problem you have without telling anyone what it actually is.
  4. If you need more addresses, you need more address - I would prob look to just using a lower lease time if you have a bunch of devices temp jumping on some guest network.. First thing I would do is isolate your wifi to its own segment.. You could give it a /16 if you have so many devices jumping on and off, etc. What it does for its address space doesn't effect your actual network once you segment it off. Why do you not want control of your devices either at a logical level or a security level.. Types of devices for sure should be on their own segment.. Lets say your printer was compromised. https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2019/08/microsoft-catches-russian-state-hackers-using-iot-devices-to-breach-networks/ Why should your printers be able to talk to anything on your network? The communication from users/servers to printers should be 1 way.. You accomplish this via putting your printers (and any other iot devices) on their own segments.. And then via your firewall not allowing them to create unsolicated traffic to anything else on your network - unless its actually required.. say dns, or some server to check for files it printers - maybe a log server, etc. Are you running private vlans? If your just on 1 big L2 - then any device can talk to any other device on any port.. So idiot user #1 gets his box infected - how do you stop it from taking to everything else on your network? There are many different methods of segmenting out your network best depending on a companies needs and use cases, etc. But segmentation gives you ability to control connectivity outside user permissions and host firewalls. Allows you to contain any sort of outbreak of the next wanna cry worm - or whatever the next ransomware thing might be.. There is one thing to limit a users account to only what it needs access to... But there are many devices that have zero reason to even talk to say a server, or other user devices. Be it they have a valid account or not - if they can talk to the service, it could be exploited via some zero day or unpatched issue, etc.. I personally would take the opportunity of needing more address space to rethink your whole network layout and provide for isolation.. The very act of segmenting your different devices will give you way more flexibility in growing address space for a specific segment..
  5. I love these things, I would love to use this in my kitchen.
  6. Technique

    To build or buy a new PC? [UK]*

    I disagree. What i would like and what i need are two completely different things. Like with the car for example. Nobody 'needs' a fast car, they want it. If you need a car to get from A-B then the cheapest option does the job right because the speed limit is the speed limit right? My TV for another example. In the end i went for 58". I didn't need a 58" TV that cost me about £1100-£1200 off the top of my head. I could've saved myself close to £1000 and still got a reasonable sized TV which would've still allowed me to watch things on. I went for the one i went for because that was the one i wanted. Would a £300 40" TV have covered what i needed - to watch TV, DVDs, play consoles on etc? Of course it would've. I didn't want that though. Sure i went overkill for my needs but so what? I don't drink, i don't smoke, i can afford to spend it where i want to spend it. Also, i am not 'sending out' anyone. I am grateful for anyone who spends the time doing that of course, but i am sending nobody out. It is a general question. Building and buying a similar spec PC, from peoples experiences, which is better/cheaper/advisable. I'm asking those with years of experience in this to comment on which approach they'd recommend, not to actually build me a PC. That will come later when i get round to it. Most of my use is emails, browsing, YouTube watching sure. So you'll now tell me i don't need a graphics card but like i said i don't need a 58" TV either. I'm also currently using Handbrake to save on storage space with the movies i'm ripping and my current CPU is struggling with it ... that's one task beyond the standard emails and browsing. I also said i wont rule out playing games on the PC. You ask what games, well i don't know. I didn't know when i built my existing PC, i just bought a graphics card that at the time was supposed to handle a good amount of games that were out there at that point, so that if i decided to buy something then my PC could run it.
  7. Well if you have a better suggestion on the subnet I should use I am all ears, with the static devices, wireless clients, etc, our DHCP range is running out of IPs and everything I've read Superscopes are not really recommended. I don't really want to get down into VLANs or separating buildings/floors. I can give you more details on the setup as well if necessary.
  8. Yeah so what if they share.. Being on multiple segments has nothing to do with with accessing a printer or a file share. If your to the point that your thinking of using a /21 because of addresses needed.. Buildings, shoot even floors in the same building should be on their own segments.. If you have only 89 systems, what is the point of a /21? Your wireless for damn sure should be on its own segment!!!
  9. Well let me rephrase it. These are buildings all on a single campus, next to or across from each other. Each building has just a few computers, some have 4, some have 15. For a total of about 89 systems. We are currently running Unifi APs with a guest network which are isolated and we see a lot of temp connections throughout the day from ipads, cell phones, apple watches, etc taking up a lot of address space. I don't really want to segment the buildings from each other as they do share resources, printers, servers between each other. My biggest concern is the order at which the resubnetting has to be done.
  10. That is great and all that your all connected via DWDM... But I really wouldn't suggest 1 flat network.. This gives you way less control if you need to do anything specific, etc. I would plan out your address space so each site can have plenty of space and ability to segment as well for isolation of different classes of devices and or users, etc.
  11. Hey guys, Current setup - 172.16.50.0/24 with a superscope handing out address say 172.16.50.100 to 150 and 172.16.51.100 to 150 I have multiple sites connected via dark-fiber and am looking at moving to 172.16.50.0/21 which will give usable addresses of - 172.16.48.1 - 172.16.55.254. All of my static assigned clients are reservations and I can work with Server 2016 DHCP to reconfigure that or re-make the entire scope if I have to do it manually. My main concern is, my core router and switches, can I set them manually as I move through this process to the new subnet or do I have to do all of this at once to ensure connectivity? All of the clients will reside within 172.16.50.0/24 until I have those devices totally changed. I assume since that range falls within the new subnet as well everything should still be able to talk. Any suggestions or input would be great.
  12. Zlip792

    [definitive] Best iPhone Apps

    List of apps: 1) Splitwise to manage expenses between friends and flat mates 2) 1.1.1.1 - for DNS over HTTPS 3) CamCard - to scan business cards 4) Trainline - to buy train travel 5) Citymapper - to navigate in a city 6) Scanbot - to scan documents please contribute so I can find some good apps.
  13. sava700

    Netflix is testing new human-curated 'Collections' feature

    How about testing 4K disk rentals instead... I mean wth. 4K streaming of movies when the disks are available as well not one or the other.
  14. adrynalyne

    Netflix is testing new human-curated 'Collections' feature

    Leave it to someone to bring politics into a non-political thread. It’s getting old.
  15. Oliseo

    Netflix is testing new human-curated 'Collections' feature

    Cool, maybe they can curate a list of fun mindless TV shows that don't push the left wing liberal "woke" BS on every single show whenever and wherever they can because that's what all their liberal friends in the media are doing and they have to one up them at the expense of making TV shows without ######ing politics in it, shows that appeal to everyone and anyone and not just a bunch of middle class virtue signalling tossers?
  16. 2 users accounts on the same OS... Is this other account admin? If not just don't give them permission to the folders you don't want them to have access to. That could be the root of your d drive for example if you so desired.
  17. Except this is an indie developer, who really needs that money. Should have thought about that then before they decided to throw their customers under the bus. Actions have consequences.
  18. trag3dy

    To build or buy a new PC? [UK]*

    Okay. But if the only thing you do is surf the internet, watch some youtube videos, and check emails then you don't need a middle to high end graphics card and a lot of memory or storage space. People ask that question so they can tailor a build to your needs. And also keep in mind that you're wasting peoples time that are trying to help you by sending them out to research a pc that you might not have a use for.
  19. Currently i'm on Windows 7 but i'm also asking this question with a view to shifting to Windows 10 in the near future. I know right now i can hide one drive from another with the way i have the PC set up as i do - that is i have Windows 7 installed on one physical drive (call it drive 1, for ease) and also Windows 7 installed on a second physical drive (call it drive 2). Now moving on from the fact that this is an unusual dual boot setup... Now with this setup, if i type in diskmgmt.msc to the start menu from within disk 1, select disk 2 within Disk Management and remove the drive letter then disk 1 can no longer 'see' disk 2, in that it no longer shows up in 'Computer'. My question is, if there was no dual boot and Windows (be it 7 or 10) was only installed on disk 1 which had two or more user profiles, is there a way of 'hiding' disk 2 from certain profiles? Do you just do the same removal of a drive letter within that persons profile or would that not work?
  20. Technique

    To build or buy a new PC? [UK]*

    First off thanks to everyone for the replies. Secondly, i don't like to answer questions like "what do you use it for". No offence. If i mention what i 99% use it for then you will spec me the most budget machine known to man. It's like my car for example - i use it to get from A to B like most people do, so why don't i own the cheapest most economical thing ever? Because it'd be slow as sh@# and i'm quite happy spending a bit extra for that better acceleration from a standstill and from 40/50 upwards even. I wouldn't be happy with something snail pace even though it'd still get me from A-B. Third - Jim K you raise a very good point and it's not one that i've decided on because this is an early days kind of idea. Before Budman comes and quotes me from a few months back where i can't afford and don't like to spend .... i know i know. But i think a lot. Often my thinking will come to nothing. I've thought about a new car for years but have the same one i bought 10 years ago. I've thought of a new sound system - but haven't spent (yet), so on & so forth. I just think....a lot and like to look at my options. Some times i go ahead, many times i don't But anyway Jim, i don't actually know what i'd do there. On the one hand i'm the type of guy to just say F it and buy everything new. Total new start. Equally you raise a good point - there's nothing wrong with my case. My case cost about £150 originally. The PSU i wonder - i wonder if it'd be better buying new, whether it'd offer me anything over this one, whether it'd be an idea to renew after 10 years, i don't know. Regards storage, as far as the SSD goes i'd be buying a new one as main - 512GB likely. The other drives would remain the same...possibly. I'm still building this media library so that one could very well change.
  21. Really? The previous model used a normal user replaceable wireless card, and you could drop in an ax200 for $20 or so. There's a review on YouTube where they open it up and specifically mention about WiFi chip not being removable: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnp1rmnGZZo&t=9m24s
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