Tweeter Distorted

[Nashy]

I'm a bit of a numpty when it comes to car audio, and always rely on the people I'm handing the cash over to, to make sure I'm getting what I ask for.  This time round, I've been let down, and I'd rather not pay out again if I can sort it myself.

Sitting in the driver's side, some songs produce distortion through the left tweeter in the pillar.  I thought I must have wrecked it, so I threw a new one in, and it's just as bad.  I don't have a stupid powerful system, I run a Ford Sync 2 (My Touch?), a Mini Focal Amp, a small sub, and a pair of splits.

I notice the installer has a long (200mm odd) heat shrinked... something in the tweeter lines.  I haven't taken it apart yet, but I think it's a line converter, or whatever the little thing is to make the splits work.  Could this be the issue, as the set of splits I purchased to replace the tweeters has some, and from what he told me at the install, these new ones will be of higher quality.

[The Evil Overlord]

Sounds like a blown tweeter or possibly a crossover issue.

But without actually taking a first hand look, I can't say for sure...

 

You mention only on some songs you get a distortion.

Can you try a different genre of music with similar mid-top ends, just to see if it is still doing it?

 

(On the off chance it might just be the way those particular songs were recorded)

[Nashy]

52 minutes ago, The Evil Overlord said:

Sounds like a blown tweeter or possibly a crossover issue.

But without actually taking a first hand look, I can't say for sure...

 

You mention only on some songs you get a distortion.

Can you try a different genre of music with similar mid-top ends, just to see if it is still doing it?

 

(On the off chance it might just be the way those particular songs were recorded)

It doesn't do it on everything, but to me, it's like there bass getting to the tweeter and causing it.

[CrashG]

40 minutes ago, Nashy said:

It doesn't do it on everything, but to me, it's like there bass getting to the tweeter and causing it.

If bass is getting to the tweeters, then the crossover is not working corectly

[Nashy]

I've just pulled the heat shrink off the thing attached to the speaker, and it's two .55mh copper coils by the look.  What would these have been fitted for?

[The Evil Overlord]

3 hours ago, Nashy said:

I've just pulled the heat shrink off the thing attached to the speaker, and it's two .55mh copper coils by the look.  What would these have been fitted for?

Some tweeters have the crossover built into their wiring, it could be the culprit, (some really cheap and crappy ones just use a shortcut and solder in a resister BADLY to the tweeter's housing, (these tend to fail prematurely) Again, just guessing here, but I think those copper coils are the inductor coil, and might need replacing, trouble with a lot of audio systems is, it could be any part of the setup causing the problem, from the car's wiring to the audio equipment, to the end point (speakers/subwoofers) (I've bashed my head off of walls trying to explain to some that the fade out on their subs is because they're using incorrect wiring to their amp, and they refuse to listen. Only to then find out I was right all along)

Try replacing the both of the induction coils if applicable, (I'm not sure who you bought the parts from sell those separately or not).... (If it's a new purchase and install, it shouldn't cost you)

[Nashy]

4 hours ago, The Evil Overlord said:

Some tweeters have the crossover built into their wiring, it could be the culprit, (some really cheap and crappy ones just use a shortcut and solder in a resister BADLY to the tweeter's housing, (these tend to fail prematurely) Again, just guessing here, but I think those copper coils are the inductor coil, and might need replacing, trouble with a lot of audio systems is, it could be any part of the setup causing the problem, from the car's wiring to the audio equipment, to the end point (speakers/subwoofers) (I've bashed my head off of walls trying to explain to some that the fade out on their subs is because they're using incorrect wiring to their amp, and they refuse to listen. Only to then find out I was right all along)

Try replacing the both of the induction coils if applicable, (I'm not sure who you bought the parts from sell those separately or not).... (If it's a new purchase and install, it shouldn't cost you)

After poking around, I can't find any cross overs.  It looks like the wires go direct from the amp to the woofers and tweeters, only the tweets go via the copper coils.

[Dick Montage]

18 hours ago, Nashy said:

I run a Ford Sync 2 (My Touch?)

Me too - horrendous system. LOL

 

[Nashy]

1 hour ago, Nefarious Trigger said:

Me too - horrendous system. LOL

 

I'm trying to get some info about upgrading to Sync 3.  From what I read it should be as simple as plug and play, but I'm not so sure with my Aus built vehicle.

[The Evil Overlord]

Unless it's physically impossible, (ie stereo has integrated vehicle controls/reversing sensors/camera) I always go aftermarket. 

 

Anyway, a decent car audio retailer should be able to sell you a pair of tweeters with their own crossovers suitable for your vehicle, then it'll just be a case of fitting them.

 

I'm leaning towards your amp is fine as you haven't mentioned any distortion in your speakers/sub (if applicable)

[Nashy]

56 minutes ago, The Evil Overlord said:

Unless it's physically impossible, (ie stereo has integrated vehicle controls/reversing sensors/camera) I always go aftermarket. 

 

Anyway, a decent car audio retailer should be able to sell you a pair of tweeters with their own crossovers suitable for your vehicle, then it'll just be a case of fitting them.

 

I'm leaning towards your amp is fine as you haven't mentioned any distortion in your speakers/sub (if applicable)

The other speakers and the sub are all fine, it's just the tweeters.

I can't go aftermarket really, as the climate control is all done via the screen too, and my vehicle doesn't have any on/off or temp indicators on the actual buttons either.

[The Evil Overlord]

1 hour ago, Nashy said:

The other speakers and the sub are all fine, it's just the tweeters.

I can't go aftermarket really, as the climate control is all done via the screen too, and my vehicle doesn't have any on/off or temp indicators on the actual buttons either.

Well the good news is, the impedance value of tweeters can be forgiving, you can usually go 2 up or down with very little, if any stress on your amp. Unless you only have one option on the volume control

[Dick Montage]

4 hours ago, Nashy said:

I'm trying to get some info about upgrading to Sync 3.  From what I read it should be as simple as plug and play, but I'm not so sure with my Aus built vehicle.

Really?  I've read 100% to the contrary.  Worth a look!

 

[adrynalyne]

5 hours ago, Nashy said:

I'm trying to get some info about upgrading to Sync 3.  From what I read it should be as simple as plug and play, but I'm not so sure with my Aus built vehicle.

Depends on your definition of plug and play. If disassembling the unit and replacing internals is it, then sure

 

The pain of that alone is why I just deal with mine.

[Nashy]

10 hours ago, The Evil Overlord said:

Well the good news is, the impedance value of tweeters can be forgiving, you can usually go 2 up or down with very little, if any stress on your amp. Unless you only have one option on the volume control

This the new converter in there, today the Tweeter played ball and we got along without any crackle.

 

7 hours ago, Nefarious Trigger said:

Really?  I've read 100% to the contrary.  Worth a look!

 

I notice they all talk about coding to the vehicle, however, I believe this is just entering the VIN into the new APIM, but it's apparently not required.

 

6 hours ago, adrynalyne said:

Depends on your definition of plug and play. If disassembling the unit and replacing internals is it, then sure

 

The pain of that alone is why I just deal with mine.

It's not overly difficult to pull that stuff down and get it out.  I run a mechanical shop though, so I can just tell a tech to do it for me :-p

[The Evil Overlord]

7 hours ago, Nashy said:

This the new converter in there, today the Tweeter played ball and we got along without any crackle.

 

I notice they all talk about coding to the vehicle, however, I believe this is just entering the VIN into the new APIM, but it's apparently not required.

 

It's not overly difficult to pull that stuff down and get it out.  I run a mechanical shop though, so I can just tell a tech to do it for me :-p

If it's the older, 3 iso system, (power plug, audio plug, connectivity plug) then you're in luck, those only connect one way, the plugs have 'missing' pins which can help differentiate power from audio, the connectivity plug looks vastly different and only fits in it's corresponding 'socket'

 

 

 

Also, glad to hear it's working 

[Dick Montage]

9 hours ago, Nashy said:

I notice they all talk about coding to the vehicle, however, I believe this is just entering the VIN into the new APIM, but it's apparently not required.

Interesting.  I thought it was an entirely different hardware system

[Nashy]

2 hours ago, Nefarious Trigger said:

Interesting.  I thought it was an entirely different hardware system

It is, however I think the communication protocol Ford uses for their ICC must be the same across the board.  And it would seem the Sync 3 doesn't communicate with the BCM in the car.  I'm not 100%, once I am able to get one from a wreck, I'll be able to check.

[Dick Montage]

I will certainly follow any info you share

[The Evil Overlord]

I had to buy an iso converter from my local halfords (but that was because they were cheaper than my preferred audio specialist at the time for an identical part) when I fitted an aftermarket stereo into my old 96 Galaxy, years ago, so there MIGHT still be a way for you... Audio specialists would probably keep, or be able to order such a part if it exists.

[Nashy]

8 hours ago, The Evil Overlord said:

I had to buy an iso converter from my local halfords (but that was because they were cheaper than my preferred audio specialist at the time for an identical part) when I fitted an aftermarket stereo into my old 96 Galaxy, years ago, so there MIGHT still be a way for you... Audio specialists would probably keep, or be able to order such a part if it exists.

The issue is the climate control.

[The Evil Overlord]

8 hours ago, Nashy said:

The issue is the climate control.

Oh, I take it there are no climate control options on the sync 3?

[The Evil Overlord]

On ‎23‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 0:04 AM, Nashy said:

The issue is the climate control.

Ok 2 weeks later, how's the sound system holding up?

[Nashy]

36 minutes ago, The Evil Overlord said:

Ok 2 weeks later, how's the sound system holding up?

So far so good!  I'm only getting crackles now when I push things a little too hard, but for my loud music, everything is all good.  I'm looking at where I can upgrade now, I want it louder again 

[The Evil Overlord]

53 minutes ago, Nashy said:

So far so good!  I'm only getting crackles now when I push things a little too hard, but for my loud music, everything is all good.  I'm looking at where I can upgrade now, I want it louder again 

That's one of the main reasons I like cars that don't have mechanical, or other features shunted through the stereo, I like my aftermarket set ups,

(some factory units are forgiving, and will work if reshunted to an aftermarket amp/speakers/subs, but you're lucky if you happen to get those, too many will 'trip' a circuit, or worse).