Unable to boot into Windows

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Luc2k    734

I've built myself a Ryzen PC several months ago and had a unexpected hang while I was browsing/watching youtube. The image had suddenly disappeared with the leds on the GPU flashing on and off, and error code 00 on the motherboard. After rebooting, I was greeted with the options to start normally or to repair Windows (just instructions on how to run repair from a Windows disc). Selected start normally and ended with a BSOD soon after.

 

After that, I tried to boot several Windows images without success from both USB and optical. For Windows 7 it would stop as the Windows colours were coming together (ending in black screen, staying stuck or BSOD) and for Windows 10, after staying at the blue logo for a short while, it would BSOD.

 

Next step was hardware troubleshooting: Removed the HDD power connectors from the PSU, reset CMOS, removed RAM and tried 1 stick at a time in different slots, used a different GPU (Nvidia 7300GS), however nothing changed.

I will try a different PSU soon (no-name brand) that I've used in troubleshooting before. Unfortunately, this PSU does not have enough connectors to test with my main card.

 

The system was never overclocked and had been running stable for 1-2 weeks at a time, while playing games and rendering various things without issue. This was the first time that it had crashed.

 

00 Please check if the CPU is installed correctly and then clear CMOS.

BSOD - if it occurs, it's usually "page fault in nonpaged area"

 

Specs:

Ryzen 1700

Asrock X370 Taichi - UEFI P2.30

Gigabyte R390

Crucial 2*8GB 2400Mhz

Seasonic X-560

Windows 7

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Jason S.    1,243

ive expressed my disdain for Asrock motherboards many times in the past. i wouldnt at all be surprised if it's a failing motherboard. as you mentioned already, though, try another PSU first. That Seasonic seems pretty old (circa 2010?) and may not be powerful enough. Otherwise, if that doesnt fix it, all fingers point to the motherboard.

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Circaflex    2,901

The Seasonic X-560 is an excellent power supply. Very low ripple, constant correct voltage, all at gold level efficiency. I doubt the PSU is the problem unless it has completely failed. Now, I am not 100% up to date with power requirements for Ryzen, I guess it could be possible 560 watts is not enough but I can't comment for sure.

 

My advice would be to remove everything from the case, rebuild the unit on a cardboard box and use the bare minimum to see if it POSTs. It also wouldn't hurt to re-seat the CPU during this time.

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Luc2k    734
10 minutes ago, Jason S. said:

ive expressed my disdain for Asrock motherboards many times in the past. i wouldnt at all be surprised if it's a failing motherboard. as you mentioned already, though, try another PSU first. That Seasonic seems pretty old (circa 2010?) and may not be powerful enough. Otherwise, if that doesnt fix it, all fingers point to the motherboard.

It would be my second Asrock board, and while they were the cheap brand for a long time, they've built a nice reputation in recent years.

1 minute ago, Circaflex said:

The Seasonic X-560 is an excellent power supply. Very low ripple, constant correct voltage, all at gold level efficiency. I doubt the PSU is the problem unless it has completely failed. Now, I am not 100% up to date with power requirements for Ryzen, I guess it could be possible 560 watts is not enough but I can't comment for sure.

The PSU is 3 months over its 5 year warranty unfortunately. While my setup is potentially power hungry due to the GPU and several hard drives, failing at low load sounds rather odd. Anyway, I'll try the other PSU in a short while.

 

If that fails, I guess I'll reinstall the CPU.

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Mockingbird    2,052

The first thing I would suspect would be the power supply.

 

BTW, Gigabyte recommends a 600W PSU for your system.

 

The second would be the video card.

 

52 minutes ago, Jason S. said:

ive expressed my disdain for Asrock motherboards many times in the past. i wouldnt at all be surprised if it's a failing motherboard. as you mentioned already, though, try another PSU first. That Seasonic seems pretty old (circa 2010?) and may not be powerful enough. Otherwise, if that doesnt fix it, all fingers point to the motherboard.

AsRock has been making big strides and has been releasing some of the best motherboards lately.

 

I wanted the AsRock X370 Taichi, but it was constantly out-of-stock due to high demand.

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Circaflex    2,901
5 minutes ago, Mockingbird said:

The first thing I would suspect would be the power supply.

 

BTW, Gigabyte recommends a 600W PSU for your system.

 

The second would be the video card.

 

AsRock has been making big strides and has been releasing some of the best motherboards lately.

 

I wanted the AsRock X370 Taichi, but it was constantly out-of-stock.

Video card manufacturers often inflate the power requirements because some users run lower quality power supplies. Considering OP has a rather good PSU, 560 should be plenty. I tried a few different power supply calculators and this system probably wont use over 500Ws of power.

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Luc2k    734

Well, with the different PSU if behaves almost the same. Trying to run W10 from USB the displays the ASRock logo instead of the Windows one until the image turns off or it BSODs. BSODs messages vary from "memory management" to "irql_not_less_or_equal". I'm swapping memory sticks around at this point, just to be sure.

 

Windows 7 from the DVD drive behaves as with the Seasonic.

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Mockingbird    2,052
2 minutes ago, Circaflex said:

Video card manufacturers often inflate the power requirements because some users run lower quality power supplies. Considering OP has a rather good PSU, 560 should be plenty. I tried a few different power supply calculators and this system probably wont use over 500Ws of power.

That's true, but power supply are not efficient at or near its maximum output.

 

Using power supply near or at its maximum output causes the power supply to degrade.

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Circaflex    2,901
8 minutes ago, Mockingbird said:

That's true, but power supply are not efficient at or near its maximum output.

 

Using power supply near or at its maximum output causes the power supply to degrade.

Except in this case, this power supply is still gold efficient when fully loaded; http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=202.

 

And also, I would believe your last statement to be incorrect. A high quality PSU will have no such issue when running at 100% rated output for extended periods of time (that is why they are rated), and who runs their PSU full load anyways, you will be OK as long as you aren't running your PC in an oven. Heat is a bigger factor than load. As long as temps are kept within specification, stated by the manufacture, you won't have any problems running it at full load.

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shoemakerpom2010    1

Actually you should try to isolate the memory slots with one stick in the board. Leave the one stick closest to the CPU in, power down and then restart. I've had memory sticks go bad often in asrock boards so you may get off easy and isolate which stick is bad or if the slot went bad one stick at a time. Then I would look at the power supply. I usually get an antec from staples and test and take back if I don't have any other use for it. Next would be the graphics card which do go bad just not as often. Last I would mess with the CPU as I only had one go bad in 20 years that wasn't overclocked. Main reason is most cpus are programed to slow down before burning out......

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Luc2k    734
51 minutes ago, Mockingbird said:

That's true, but power supply are not efficient at or near its maximum output.

 

Using power supply near or at its maximum output causes the power supply to degrade.

I believe the PSU can be ruled out, as the same thing happens with the second one.

27 minutes ago, shoemakerpom2010 said:

Actually you should try to isolate the memory slots with one stick in the board. Leave the one stick closest to the CPU in, power down and then restart. I've had memory sticks go bad often in asrock boards so you may get off easy and isolate which stick is bad or if the slot went bad one stick at a time. Then I would look at the power supply. I usually get an antec from staples and test and take back if I don't have any other use for it. Next would be the graphics card which do go bad just not as often. Last I would mess with the CPU as I only had one go bad in 20 years that wasn't overclocked. Main reason is most cpus are programed to slow down before burning out......

While I haven't tried each stick with each slot, I did try all slots. PSU and GPU are also out as I'm using different ones and the symptoms are similar. That leaves the CPU and the motherboard, for which I don't have a direct swap.

 

I'll reinstall the CPU tomorrow and then call the shops. Unfortunately, they were bought from different places, and, while one owns the other, they operate separately.

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Jim K    8,883

Do you have the latest BIOS update (3.20) released a couple of weeks ago? Have all the settings in the BIOS set to auto?  Is the system stable before Windows (as in will it stay in the BIOS w/o crashing)?  Memtest just for laughs (and without crashing).

 

Have you tried a "live" Linux ... just to see what happens? 

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Luc2k    734
1 minute ago, Jim K said:

Do you have the latest BIOS update (3.20) released a couple of weeks ago? Have all the settings in the BIOS set to auto?  Is the system stable before Windows (as in will it stay in the BIOS w/o crashing)?  Memtest just for laughs (and without crashing).

 

Have you tried a "live" Linux ... just to see what happens? 

No to latest bios. I guess I'll update that over the network.

Settings have been reset several times to defaults. Even removed the battery and put it back.

No crashes before, but I haven't staid in there for very long.

 

I'll give memtest and live Linux a shot.

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shoemakerpom2010    1

Try the memory first like I told you since you already ruled out the GPU and PSU. Only leave one stick in (closest to the cpu) and reboot. If it acts up after boot shut down and move to the next slot and repeat. If that does not work swap sticks to rule out the other stick. Trust me I was in the same boat about a month ago on an asrock mini gaming board that was stable as a rock till one of my corsair sticks went bad. Its almost unheard of with corsair but it happens. shops will more then likely want to swap the board since that's the quickest method then chasing your tail and charging by the hour to do it. As an Admin I have seen everything that could wrong with an Asrock and usually they are super stable. Ram on the other hand is not especially with boards that allow tweaking of the timings or overclock of the ram..... 

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Luc2k    734
38 minutes ago, shoemakerpom2010 said:

Try the memory first like I told you since you already ruled out the GPU and PSU. Only leave one stick in (closest to the cpu) and reboot. If it acts up after boot shut down and move to the next slot and repeat. If that does not work swap sticks to rule out the other stick. Trust me I was in the same boat about a month ago on an asrock mini gaming board that was stable as a rock till one of my corsair sticks went bad. Its almost unheard of with corsair but it happens. shops will more then likely want to swap the board since that's the quickest method then chasing your tail and charging by the hour to do it. As an Admin I have seen everything that could wrong with an Asrock and usually they are super stable. Ram on the other hand is not especially with boards that allow tweaking of the timings or overclock of the ram..... 

Tried each stick in each slot with the W7 disk and there was no difference, either the image freezes or the screen goes blank during the logo animation. When it goes blank, 00 also flashes on and off on the motherboard.

 

Also, UEFI was update to 3.20 before I started swapping.

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Luc2k    734
15 hours ago, Jim K said:

Have you tried a "live" Linux ... just to see what happens? 

After reading around the web, tried various UEFI settings, like disabling C6 state, onboard Audio, switch from AHCI to RAID, even disabled the SATA controller at one point, but nothing has changed.

 

Tried Linux Mint (both normal and compatibility mode) and after 1-2 seconds, the screen goes blank and 00 starts flashing on the motherboard.

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+The Evil Overlord    17,421

At the risk of asking a silly question... Are there any legacy, or legacy boot settings on your hardware?

(If you've tried everything else)

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Jim K    8,883
10 minutes ago, Luc2k said:

After reading around the web, tried various UEFI settings, like disabling C6 state, onboard Audio, switch from AHCI to RAID, even disabled the SATA controller at one point, but nothing has changed.

 

Tried Linux Mint (both normal and compatibility mode) and after 1-2 seconds, the screen goes blank and 00 starts flashing on the motherboard.

Yea, looks like you've tried just about everything (if you've also done the memory thing like shoemaker suggested).  If reseating the CPU doesn't work, maybe testing it outside the case ... I would return the motherboard as it may have failed.

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+Mando    3,328
20 minutes ago, Luc2k said:

After reading around the web, tried various UEFI settings, like disabling C6 state, onboard Audio, switch from AHCI to RAID, even disabled the SATA controller at one point, but nothing has changed.

 

Tried Linux Mint (both normal and compatibility mode) and after 1-2 seconds, the screen goes blank and 00 starts flashing on the motherboard.

what does the motherboard book state about 00 error?

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+Mando    3,328
1 hour ago, Mockingbird said:

there we have it then, Bios codes are there for a reason :) reseat cpu, readd HS and retry.

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Luc2k    734
12 hours ago, The Evil Overlord said:

At the risk of asking a silly question... Are there any legacy, or legacy boot settings on your hardware?

(If you've tried everything else)

Legacy options are on by default. If needed, I'll go into more details once I have time for another troubleshooting session.

12 hours ago, Jim K said:

Yea, looks like you've tried just about everything (if you've also done the memory thing like shoemaker suggested).  If reseating the CPU doesn't work, maybe testing it outside the case ... I would return the motherboard as it may have failed.

It will be a pain, but I'm almost out of options. I've done everything suggested up to this point, apart from reseating the CPU and running memtest.

5 hours ago, Mando said:

there we have it then, Bios codes are there for a reason :) reseat cpu, readd HS and retry.

I will, but in the meantime I'm wondering why now, after a considerable uptime (>75% since built). At any rate, I hope I'll have time this weekend.

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Jim K    8,883
3 minutes ago, Luc2k said:

I will, but in the meantime I'm wondering why now, after a considerable uptime (>75% since built). At any rate, I hope I'll have time this weekend.

Electronics ...  :)

 

Sometimes they give up the ghost.

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Jason S.    1,243

so what's the latest? im dying to know if it was the motherboard at fault after all

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Luc2k    734
4 hours ago, Jason S. said:

so what's the latest? im dying to know if it was the motherboard at fault after all

Haven't had the occasion to reseat the CPU yet. I'm doing it tomorrow and be sure that I'll update the topic.

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