Rheem water heater


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I am having an issue with my water heating as I am getting no hot water in my house. I was wondering if the following 2 parts are ok to change in it? One is a water heating element , on the package it says 4500w-240 and 240 volts. The other part is a thermostat upper , on the package it says 240 volts.

I am attaching a pic of specifics on my water heater

https://imgur.com/R0vEm7I

Can one or more verify this if these are the correct parts plz.

TIA

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Replace the water heater..  There is probably a lot of sediment at the bottom that would cause heating issues.  

 

The install isn't hard to do on electric and electric water heaters aren't all that expensive.  If you are planning to do all of that, you could easily just replace one.  I purchased a 40 gallon hot water heater for $240 USD on sale at my local Lowes.  You can pick up new ones for under $500, not worth repairing as the tub can and will rot out like mine did...yours was manufactured in 07 10-11 years is pretty good for a hot water heater.

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yes you need to shut the main off otherwise it will keep feeding into the water heater and it will never stop until you either deplete the well or wherever your city water is coming from (if you have city water).  

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Before you start draining the water heater...that would be step 1 or step 2. 

 

Step 1 or Step 2 is to also shut off power to the water heater.  these two things happen before you hook up the hose and open the spigot to drain the tank.

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OK I shut off the main valve. I assume after i turn off the power breaker and when I dont have any water coming from the hose into my sump pump then it is OK to change upper thermonstat and heating element at that time?

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8 minutes ago, sc302 said:

Deep socket of the correct size.  Don’t know what size it is exactly.    Try some pb blaster could be rusted on.  

Yep, thats was my conclusion as well, Home depot, lowes, sears harbor freight tools dont have 1 1/2 sockets. I found out the only pace that sells them. A place that sell them are autopart dealers. What a PITA. Should i use a drill that i can connect the socket to it so it is easier to remove if there is such a drill?

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If the 1 1/2 is sliding it could be metric.  You could try an adjustable wrench or channel lock pliers to try to get it off.  

 

Also advance or autozone may have it. 

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, sc302 said:

If the 1 1/2 is sliding it could be metric.  You could try an adjustable wrench or channel lock pliers to try to get it off.  

 

Also advance or autozone may have it. 

Yes, I am going to try that tomorrow.  Should i use a drill that i can connect the socket to it so it is easier to remove if there is such a drill?

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2 minutes ago, Bruinator said:

Yes, I am going to try that tomorrow.  Should i use a drill that i can connect the socket to it so it is easier to remove if there is such a drill?

You would use an electric impact, they are a few hundred. 

 

For the cost of that plus tools You  would have been enjoying hot water by now if you replaced the whole heater.  Far less work.  

 

Cut two pipes, solder two pipes, disconnect 3 wires, hook up 3 wires, done.   There is a large chance what you are doing won’t work or will only work a short time. 

 

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Just now, sc302 said:

You would use an electric impact, they are a few hundred. 

 

For the cost of that plus tools You  would have been enjoying hot water by now if you replaced the whole heater.  Far less work.  

 

Cut two pipes, solder two pipes, disconnect 3 wires, hook up 3 wires, done.   There is a large chance what you are doing won’t work or will only work a short time. 

 

Yes, It is the cheapest way to start out before having it replaced. IDC of the price coz I am going to return it when I am done using it LOL.

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Well good luck.  It is 11 years old.   I wouldn’t trust it to go 12.  Mine caught fire as the internals rusted through and water got to the electrical connector which ignited the insulation.   The fire department called us lucky that we still had a house. 

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