Big-screen TVs


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who's good and how do you tell?

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how to tell its the hard part, there are forums that specialize in that. where people know excactly what to look for. in some cases they open up the tvs and check who actually made the dispaly

Sony LCD projection will give you the most bang for the buck no doubt....

60" \/

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-gH1Mqh3ynZZ/c...ch=KDF+655+sony

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one problem that you can quickly see its is 788p, isn't widelly supported.

its 480p (dvd) then 720p and now 1080p

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its 480p (dvd) then 720p and now 1080p

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alot of newer sets are doing that, converting all signals to 788p.

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Um with regards to cabling.. monster cables are a rip off, i read a few months ago there is not significant performance gain (if any) over the 'cheaper' cables made in the same way... i dont know if TV cables are Oxygen Free Copper like those used in HiFi setups, but look for the same manufacturing process and you should be good..

I was under the impression that things are digital and the signal either arrives, or it dosent.. noise is not a factor.. but i guess that only counts for things such as optical cables.. :ninja:

as for widescreen.. i think the UK all our cable and satelite channels are broadcast in 4:3, and widescreen. We just chose what tv we have in the setup and the correct signal is sent to the tv (atleast that what it seems cos it never looks stretched).. i would imagine that any cable supplier in the US would do a similar thing no?

If im so far off the ball its stupid, let me know :D

i like to learn

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Um with regards to cabling.. monster cables are a rip off, there is not significant performance gain (if any) over the 'cheaper' cables made in the same way... i dont know if TV cables are Oxygen Free Copper like HiFi stuff, but look for that and you will be good..

I was under the impression that things are digital and the signal either arrives, or it dosent.. noise is not a factor.. but i guess that only counts for things such as optical cables..

as for widescreen.. in the UK all our cable and satelite channels are broadcast in 4:3, and widescreen. We just chose what tv we have in the setup and the correct signal is sent to the tv (it never looks stretched).. i would imagine that any cable supplier in the US would do a similar thing no?

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1) Not everything is hooked up with digital connections. DVD players, HD cable boxes, etc can still be hooked up via component video and have to be in many cases. I'm not a fan for Monster cables on an average set up, but if you want to get things right, you use Monster. I know it's cool to hate them because they're expensive and we should all rebel against corporate america, but one look at their THX wires and you don't go back. The wires are just built so well. If I could afford a set up like that, I would go Monster. Unfortunately, I don't make enough cash, so I stick with a very basic 19" TV,

2) No, cable companies don't do that here.

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Are there any good LCoS big-screens on the market? And is LCoS really that much better than everything else?

Also, bangbang: what 60+ TV would you recommend right now?

And finally, is there any reason to wait? Something big & new coming?

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well, there seem to plenty about it..

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=mon...+it+%3F&spell=1

i think they are just overpriced, and paying for the brand.. i mean they have gold connectors!!11! yeah, and?

aslong as the cables you use are those NOT from the box, and you buy some after market ones, they will be completely fine..

even belkin! :D

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Belkin wires are actually pretty good, but the Monsters are good too. They aren't just gold tipped. You should read some of the technical stuff on them.

as for which 60+ tv I would recommend, the only one at 60" I would suggest is the 60 XS from sony. That's probably the best LCD Projo I've laid my eyes on.

LCoS definitely has the potential to be the best technology. I haven't seen any good sets though, but they may exist. I know last year's JVC ones were god aweful.

All of the new stuff just came out, so not too much new stuff coming.

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alot of newer sets are doing that, converting all signals to 788p.

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720p looks better

then 720p upconverted to 788p

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Whoever is recommending plasma is talking out of their arse. Plasma uses approximately 10x the power of a regular (CRT) TV, they STILL have serious problems with burn-in and they gradually fade over time. There is NO fix for the fading - you will be forced to buy a new TV.

LCD is still expensive in any significant size, though in the future this will be the way to go unless we get something like OLEDs.

CRT is dead.

Right now, the only real option is DLP - yes, you do have to replace the bulbs every 3-4 years BUT at least you don't have to buy a whole new TV like you do with plasma.

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Whoever is recommending plasma is talking out of their arse. Plasma uses approximately 10x the power of a regular (CRT) TV, they STILL have serious problems with burn-in and they gradually fade over time. There is NO fix for the fading - you will be forced to buy a new TV.

LCD is still expensive in any significant size, though in the future this will be the way to go unless we get something like OLEDs.

CRT is dead.

Right now, the only real option is DLP - yes, you do have to replace the bulbs every 3-4 years BUT at least you don't have to buy a whole new TV like you do with plasma.

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Sounds like you are talking out of your arse to me. What's with everyones super bias towards dlp lately? They aren't for everyone, and saying false things about other types of tvs while mentioning none of the drawbacks of the technology you champion is shady if you ask me. Why not give someone a complete picture of all the technologies and let them decide what to buy for themselves. And you do know that led backlit lcds (an interesting an exciting new type of backlight that may replace the current ccfl backlights in the future) use just as much and more power than plasmas right, that dlps give some people headaches because of rainbows right, that plasmas fade at generally half the rate of a crt (and I know that everytime I see a crt that is 3-4 years old I can't see the picture because its so dim and fading before my very eyes until I think it may burn out at any moment [sarcasm]), that crts still produce the best picture quality, and so much more right? And while you mention oled, which by the way has a very short life span that they are trying to fix, why don't you tell people about sed (which to me seems much closer to production than oled). Oh and lcd tvs fade too, infact they fade at the same rate as plasmas. And while the backlight fades the colors change and get worse too. Sure you can replace it, but it won't reach half-life until 60,000 hours (20 years at 8 hours a day). So why not just buy a new tv after all that time rather than resurrecting an old one.

On another note. If the thread starter wants a good lcos tv you could look into the qualia 006 or maybe wait for the 50" and 60" sony sxrd tvs (sony's name for there lcos tvs) that are coming out this fall. I am pretty sure that the 50" one is rumored to be 3999, so that isn't so bad if the tvs quality is comparable to sony's qualia version. (I didn't really read the thread so I don't know how much you are looking to spend). Also, if you are going for rp lcds I would suggest waiting for the new sony line that in the case of the 42" and 50" models shold be out at the latest in august. Bigger sizes should be out sooner. Not saying you have to buy one of the sony line, but it would be good to wait for it to arrive so you can compare it to other brands. Although, if you aren't bothered by rainbows then you should probably look into dlp. If you get a 720p model I would suggest getting one with an HD2+ chip over the HD3 chip (or HD4 if they have one, I can't remember if 720p extended beyond the HD3), but if you go for one of teh upcoming 1080p models I think they are only offered with the xHD4 chip. But don't let me sway you on which dlp chip to get, go to the store and decide which tv you like best. Samsung 5085 (pedestal one) uses the HD2+ while the older 63series uses HD3 and the newer 67 series uses either HD3 or HD4 I can't remember (not to be confused with the xHD4 used in upcoming 1080p sets). Also, I am pretty sure that the panasonic and mitsubishi dlps use the HD2+, but don't quote me on that as I am not positive about it. Just don't get the panasonic unless you have heard that they have fixed the clayface problems on it, heh.

Edited by SonComet
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Whoever is recommending plasma is talking out of their arse. Plasma uses approximately 10x the power of a regular (CRT) TV, they STILL have serious problems with burn-in and they gradually fade over time. There is NO fix for the fading - you will be forced to buy a new TV.

LCD is still expensive in any significant size, though in the future this will be the way to go unless we get something like OLEDs.

CRT is dead.

Right now, the only real option is DLP - yes, you do have to replace the bulbs every 3-4 years BUT at least you don't have to buy a whole new TV like you do with plasma.

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You sir, are just as wrong as you think others are. Plasmas have come a long way and burn in is no where near as likely as it used to be. Also, yes, the sets fade in brightness, but most of them do have a 60,000 hour rating which equals 10 years of average viewing. If you can afford a plasma, my money says you'll want a new TV before then anyway.

LCD prices have come down a lot.

CRT is far from dead considering it is still the best picture you can get for the money. Include the fact that new thin tube CRT's are starting to appear, and you have a pretty good market for CRT's. Not to mention, they are still the top selling technology.

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Rainbows on DLPs? What's that about?

The whole 1088/788/etc format stuff is a bit intimidating.. I'm not sure I understand it.

And finally... HD2/3/4- what's the difference, is it important to take into consideration?

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DLP technology uses a spinngin segmented color wheel. In older generation systems, the wheel can not spin fast enough in high actions scenes. As the wheel tries to catch up, you get a burst of coloring across the screen.

hd2/3/4 refers to the generation of the DLP system.. You don't want to use anything under 3, though HD2+ seems to be preferred as hd3 and hd4 give a "softer" image due to the fact they present wobulated images.

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