cant get fsb to run at 133


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**** I don't know anything about them. Ok set it to 100 fsb and turn the wattage back to 2.8 go into windows and run Winbond(I think winbond comes with yours If not download Motherboard Monitor) and verify that your ddr voltage is indeed running at 2.8.

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Sorry I got nothing left to try myself, youd done it all already. Hopefully someone else'll pop in now that its tomorrow hehe. Good luck.

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i had the same problem before...cannot run my system at fsb133..i suspect the ram is not compatible with my mobo, so i go back to the shop and change for a new ram. finally it works;) take them back and change for the new 1..

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Originally posted by mAcOdIn

Not true, my k7s5a always wanted it in the second for some reason, maybe thats true for via chipsets but can't hurt to try.

yes exactly, in your case the correct slot was 2 first, then 1 etc...

Some mobos go 0 upwards, some go 2/3 downwards, you have to make sure you get the correct slot first which was the point i was making

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Hey bigmoose, I have almost the same setup as you, Ga-7VrXP rev 1.1 BIOS f4, 333ddr Ram, XP 2100+, geforce 4ti4400 and had EXACTLY the same problem as you.

at 100 fsb it runs perfectly, but at 133 it all powers up, but won't POST. The monitor stays off and all the hdd's CD ROM etc power up, but I can't do jack. On my system if i pressed the reset switch after about 8 seconds though (sometimes it'd take a few attempts) it would then boot up normally (which is weird) anyway.

Firstly don't change the multiplier, leave it to auto. I changed mine all the way and it made no difference at all. Also setting the dip switch to 100 and changing the fsb in the bios had no good effect, all it did was get really annoyed and stopped working for half an hour.

For me BIOS updates made no effect on the POST and made my computer BSOD in windows XP, so I reverted back to f4 BIOS (default for rev 1.1)

SOLUTION that worked for me.

I had a 350 Watts case, BUT the wattage is not so important as the wattage for the 3.3v and 5v combined.

my 3.3v @ 14Amps (COMMON cheapo PSU)

and 5v @ 30Amps (COMMON cheapo PSU)

to work out the ROUGH wattage there it's

3.3v multiply by Amps +

5v multiply by Amps

Divide by 3 multiply by 2

so for mine it was

3.3*14 = 46.2 +

(5*30 = 150) = 196.2 /3 = 65.4 *2 = 130Watts on my 3.3 and 5v combined.

AMD recommends 180Watts on your 3.3 and 5v combined for an Athlon XP. So as you can see I was very short of that, it's also recommended that you have 200+Watts if you have a Geforce 4 Ti4xxx

I went out a brought another Power Supply (450Watts) was also a cheapo BUT, it had 30A on 3.3v and 40A on 5V = 199.3Watts and now mine WORKS :)

Sooooooooooooo Basicly using these calculations, work out your WATTAGE for your 3.3v and 5v combined and if it's not at least 180Watts get a new PSU (power supply unit).

A temporary fix might be to set your VCORE to +7.5v or +10v if it's not running too hot, my 350 watt psu would work @ 133fsb when I did that.

I have my bios setting to very aggressive too, all games run perfectly, no BSOD

CAS 2

T1 command

Ultra

333

fast writes on

Aperture 128

I hope this helps.

Just curious though what Rev is your mobo ? 1.0, 1.1., 2.0 ?

if it's 1.0 people are suggesting they are bad and to RMA them for a newer revision (1.0's are very unstable). Let me know what your combined 3.3 and 5v wattage is, and if this helps.

Mike

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if you open your case, on the power supply it should have a full list of the Amps of all the different voltages.

like

OUTPUT 450 watts

+3.3v 30A ORANGE

+5v 40A RED

+12v 16A YELLOW

etc

the colours are not important.

Mike

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i took it to a shop to work out what the problem with the board was

took them about 30 mins and it seems that it was just a problem with the cooling fan, it was put on the wrong way!

it goes on 2 ways, diddnt think there was a difference

but it shows what i know! oh well, off to put this back together

thanks to all of you for your help and support

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