Subwoofer added another dimension


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That's the crossover control. It allows you to control which frequency range of sounds get handled by the subwoofer and which get routed to the speakers (if you were to connect your speakers to the sub instead of directly to the receiver). If you don't have the speakers connected, it simply controls how much of that range the sub will play back instead of throwing out. It's hard to gauge the proper setting in general, but play around with it. Most subs will find a home between 100 - 150hz, though it should be closer to 100hz.

edit: Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

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Alright thanks!

This thing blows everything away. I laugh at the "sub" I had on my logitech z-640 now (total power between 5 speakers and sub was 70w, now i have a 100w sub and 2 floor speakers which are rated at 60w apice and 2 rear bookshelf speakers at 50w each in and a center composing of 2 satalites that are 35w each. ... thats uhh 390w now? lol YAY!

COD3 is amazing with the now realistic artillery strikes and StarWars III was like woah. The floor speakers I have are 20 years old and 3 way (1.5" tweeter, 3" mid and 8" woofer) and I was like how much can a 8" subwoofer add? well its night and day

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hey Brandon, i got that speaker too. Mine was $75 and i still happily got it. If you were close by (DC) i'd sell you some speakers too :) Mine are 140W each so you can use them for fronts or rears.

As for the speaker, i hunted it till i found it. I love it. Already the neighbours are complainging and the volume is waaay down. i set my cut-off frequency at about 100hz as Bang said and works great... My front ones are 50-50000hz so they also have good bass by themselves :) Now Gears of War sounds great with all the speakers. :) I played online with surrounds for the first time and man those things kick ass!!! I heard bullets hitting behind me and all over.

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The rule of thumb is to set the crossover at the point where your stereo pair start to muddy up the bass. Don't set your sub higher than it needs to be (too far into the normal range of the stereo pair), or you're just wasting power for when you need it from the sub.

If you can, replace that sub with something tighter in sound in the future.

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ugh everyone always starts talking about the watts of speakers. the wattage listed is it's peak power handling. just because a speaker can handle for example, 140w over 100 doesn't make it any better necessarily. It all comes down to the amount of watts your receiver sends per channel anyways.

For subs, yeah it can make a huge difference because that is basically independent in most cases from the receiver. but when talking about speakers so many people here just have a huge misconception of how they work.

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This thing blows everything away. I laugh at the "sub" I had on my logitech z-640 now (total power between 5 speakers and sub was 70w, now i have a 100w sub and 2 floor speakers which are rated at 60w apice and 2 rear bookshelf speakers at 50w each in and a center composing of 2 satalites that are 35w each. ... thats uhh 390w now? lol YAY!

The ratings you mention are sustained capability, as in the 35W speakers you have will blow up (or most likely clip) over 35W of consistent power. You'd go deaf if you were ever in the way of 35W blasting at you anyway. The sub wattage is actually the amplifier power in it. Speakers don't have power (except for active speakers, or active subs), so your equation is totally mis-informed.

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That's the crossover control. It allows you to control which frequency range of sounds get handled by the subwoofer and which get routed to the speakers (if you were to connect your speakers to the sub instead of directly to the receiver). If you don't have the speakers connected, it simply controls how much of that range the sub will play back instead of throwing out. It's hard to gauge the proper setting in general, but play around with it. Most subs will find a home between 100 - 150hz, though it should be closer to 100hz.

edit: Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

80hz is the thx certified crossover frequency

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Give this a read, it can help you out:

http://www.klipschcorner.com/Articles.aspx...fc-29f8aa90869f

And like other have said, dont get caught up in the watts numbers game. By the time your actually feeding the satellites and the sub using its maxed watt level, you will for sure have blown some equipment to kingdom come, not to mention your hearing.

Btw, THX don't meet squat, just more marketing hype these days.

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Btw, THX don't meet squat, just more marketing hype these days.

Indeed. On my PC system, using the THX settings recommended by the X-Fi software (on THX certified speakers), setting the crossover to 80hz kills almost all my bass. I'm not a guy who likes a huge thump, but I do like to know a sub is there.

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Indeed. On my PC system, using the THX settings recommended by the X-Fi software (on THX certified speakers), setting the crossover to 80hz kills almost all my bass. I'm not a guy who likes a huge thump, but I do like to know a sub is there.

You must not listen to a lot of music below 80Hz.

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You must not listen to a lot of music below 80Hz.

Mostly rock, so the music definitely doesn't get that low. Either way, the THX "80hz" rating seems a bit low to me. I feel somewhere around 100hz is simply better. At work, this is what I usually set our display subs to.

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Mostly rock, so the music definitely doesn't get that low. Either way, the THX "80hz" rating seems a bit low to me. I feel somewhere around 100hz is simply better. At work, this is what I usually set our display subs to.

I agree with 100-105 for cheaper bookshelf and floor standing speakers. THX says 80Hz because that is where you can no longer tell the direction of the sound. If your main speakers can handle well down to 80Hz thats where you should set it.

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I doubt most of us listen to music below 20 hz :devil:

But really, the whole idea of crossing over your sub with your satellites is to provide a "smooth" transition of sound between the two . Ideally if the equipment is capable, you want to set your subwoofer right around the point that your satellites begin to roll off. For example, the satellites may be rated at reaching 80hz but they really begin to roll of and stop making audible noise about say 92hz. Then you would want to set your sub around 92 so that the sound stage is consistent and without gaps.

However READ your products literature so you don't damage anything.

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Wow, kids this is not for critical listening ^

Though neat that response curve is HORRIBLE! There is nothing linear about it. Thats something you want to have just to pi*s of the neighbors.

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With good speakers, a sub woofer is essential to balance the bass depth and feel of the overall sound. It's common with high quality speakers to actually have too much bass (yes it's possible for proper sound ;)) and you need to offset it with a sub woofer and equalize the bass of the regular speakers.

This is the sub I am going to be purchasing for my studio: KRK RP-10S Rokit Powered 10S Powered Subwoofer

RP10s_Front.jpg

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With good speakers, a sub woofer is essential to balance the bass depth and feel of the overall sound. It's common with high quality speakers to actually have too much bass (yes it's possible for proper sound ;)) and you need to offset it with a sub woofer and equalize the bass of the regular speakers.

Actually I know of quite a few people who refuse to run subs with their system because they feel that the bass takes away from the overall musical experience. They tend to prefer a very tight, pleasant and uniformal experience that and they have treated rooms so a sub isn't necessary in certain environments.

I think BangBang hit the nail on the head. Bass as part of the musical equation should NEVER overpower the presentation unless your in a nightclub, but then again your not going there to appreciate the music, only get drunk and get laid buts thats that.

Seamless presentation, nothing overwhelming, but I'd say that all changes when your listening to Organ music and DEFINITELY when you talk about HT.

Then 4 subs is acceptable :devil:

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You know, this thread got me thinking about the crossover more and more and I'm starting to feel I was wrong. 80hz seems to be better than my original recommendation, though 100hz is still good in some cases. Either way, I wouldn't recommend going higher than 100hz now. I've been fiddling with my computer system for a while now. I know THX systems are specifically set for 80hz, but I was never too sure about the legitimacy of the THX certification on these z5300e's.

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