Can An iPhone "Crash" My Wireless Network?


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Indeed, that little bit of information about also having FIOS helps tremendously. I was thinking to myself "thanks for sharing, but how is that relevant to me." :laugh:

I need to keep the Actiontec router for the programming guide for the FiOS DVR boxes but I definitely needed a better Wireless Router (802.11n).

I have shared your story with some of my friends, it seems that people that have a high simultaneous throughput wireless router have no issues with their Apple devices. The ones that have cheap or outdated performance routers do suffer from what you describe.

I would recommend you get the Belkin F9K1103 N750 DB Wireless Dual-Band N+ Router (around $100). Disable the wireless on the FiOS router and connect all your wireless devices to this new router. Again, I have never had an issues with this router when having a mix of devices simultaneously connected (Windows, Apple iOS, Android, Chrome).

I came across this when looking for issues with macs and wireless routers.

http://serverfault.c...wireless-router

One guy mentions a syn flood that the mac does when getting on that could cause a router crash. Also saw a thread there about macs not checking if IP in use when dhcp, or that reuses its old lease without verification.. I just breezed over it really - a dupe IP should not crash the whole network.. Could cause a problem with the other device, etc. But other wireless devices should be fine.

Which is why we really need some details of what actually happens. And really needs to be repeatable to be able to find the root cause - or need to be sniffing the network when the issue happens.

Seems people are blaming it on ipv6 on the mac causing issues with dns on the router - Ok turn off ipv6 on the mac could be one thing to try. Setting static IP on the mac could be another if dhcp related. Saw some people say it could be related to using WEP?

I really could not find a lot of info on this - my googlefu is normally pretty good. But its hard know if some of these threads that are years old are still viable reasons. And again without DETAILS of what exactly is happening its hard to say what could be the cause/fix for the issue. Its difficult to weed out the FUD from actual useful info -- I really did not see any threads with detailed information on what was going on.. Just noise like this thread where they state network crashes or have to reboot router without any details of the exact symptoms they see.. Did mac not get an IP, did it? Can it ping the router, can it ping IPs on the internet - so maybe just dns related? Does it shows its connected or does the wireless network disappear? What is the network WEP, WPA/WPA2, Open, etc.. Really need details to find out what the isssue is.

I would love to have some apple devices to play with - just have never found them cost effective devices ;) Now my sister-in-laws house is full of mac and iphones - and she has never reported such issues, and she has a older wrt54g that I put dd-wrt on. And then another netgear as a AP.

I am her network/computer support and have never seen an issue at her house when the router crashes, etc.

So lets have some details!!! What exactly happens! Are we sure all the wireless devices are effected or just the mac, or one other -- is wireless gone or is it just dns problem.. I know for example I have set her dhcp to hand out opendns vs pointing to the router for dns. Never have been a fan of most soho routers dns forwarding features. They tend to get overloaded quite easy and cause issues with the router - normally see this when p2p is doing dns for every connection for example. Easier to just use some more stable dns directly vs letting a devices with normally very limited resources handle such a important aspect of browsing the internet like dns.

Another thing is I know for sure UPnP is disabled on her router -- so as suggested already, maybe this is why she is not having issues?

You actually got me thinking BudMan. It very may not be the entire Network that crashes, although I thought it was, and somehow it just happens to be kicking other connections off.

Here are the details as exact as possible.

Event 1

I walk in the house. I have a Macbook Pro in my bag. It is always powered down. I also have my iPhone. Usually it is just scanning for WiFi connections, and auto-connects as soon as it hits the range of my Wireless.

Within 10 seconds of me walking in two times since Monday, my wife says "Can you come here?, I lost the wireless connection on my (work) laptop (windows XP) and I also got kicked out of VPN as a result."

So she loses her connection to VPN, and it seems as if the whole Wireless connection goes down for her. But perhaps it is just her VPN?

That happened twice.

Event 2

The other night I was on my Powerbook just surfing Neowin. Went to go to another thread, says I do not have a connection to the internet. Go to other sites, try connecting to my PC real quick, all no go.

I switch to the Alternate Wireless Network I have set up in the upstairs of my house, connect right away, hop off it, connect to my normal wireless network downstairs, connect right away. It was like my main Wireless just stopped working and did not work again until I left it and reconnected.

Since this has all gone down, I have reset my router and everything seems to be A Okay.

I also happen to have one of these on loan from work. In case anyone has any suggestions on what I can do with it. But I am hesitant to use it, as I do not want to use it and like it.

And honestly if I can resolve this issue or it does not happen again, i am pretty comfortable with my setup. I even know it is probably not ideal, so maybe one day I will post all of my equipment and hardware and ask for suggestions on the best way to set it up, but just gathering that intel is a project within itself. My wife works from home so also have a whole little sub network setup for her, somehow it is all working except for the iPhone incident, so I tend to like to let sleeping dogs lie.

Some details -- is your phone dhcp or static. Try setting it as static - does that fix it?

Are you wep or wpa, wpa2

So event 2 -- details.. No internet, does that mean you could not ping your router by iP, your pc was not working.. Did it have an IP, did it say it was disconnected from the wireless?

So in event 2 you never reset anything -- just left and then reconnected.

How do you have this other wireless network setup - as AP or are you double natting through the same internet connection. Is it different SSID, is it different security, if an access point then dhcp would be still off your main router. Or if your double natting its going to be second wireless having its own dchp. What are the scopes. For all I know you got a double nat going on with same network ip range?

In event 2 did your phone just then connect? Other than a blip in your connection I don't see how your phone would be to blame for that? And since you did not have to reset the router - or did you? Then its not a crash. Did your wireless phone ring - did the wife turn on the microwave when you lost connection?

Some details -- is your phone dhcp or static. Try setting it as static - does that fix it?

Are you wep or wpa, wpa2

So event 2 -- details.. No internet, does that mean you could not ping your router by iP, your pc was not working.. Did it have an IP, did it say it was disconnected from the wireless?

So in event 2 you never reset anything -- just left and then reconnected.

How do you have this other wireless network setup - as AP or are you double natting through the same internet connection. Is it different SSID, is it different security, if an access point then dhcp would be still off your main router. Or if your double natting its going to be second wireless having its own dchp. What are the scopes. For all I know you got a double nat going on with same network ip range?

In event 2 did your phone just then connect? Other than a blip in your connection I don't see how your phone would be to blame for that? And since you did not have to reset the router - or did you? Then its not a crash. Did your wireless phone ring - did the wife turn on the microwave when you lost connection?

All good questions. Let me see if I can answer them.

Have not tried assigning my iPhone with a Static IP. Will do that today.

WPA2

First question about Event 2, never looked at all of that.

Exactly, never reset anything, just left the network, went back in, and it was working.

And again admittedly, I am not an networking expert, far from it, but believe I have it set up as an Access Point.

Have it setup with a Static IP.

Subnet is 255.255.255.0

Default Gateway is 192.168.1.1

Different SSID

Repeater Mode is disabled

Channel is 11 as I used an app called iStumblr for my Macbook and at the time that was an unused channel.

WDS Mode is disabled

Security is also WPA2

That is what I know about it. I had to refer to some documentation on the Support forums of TrendNET to get it up and running like that. I tried it as a repeater at one point, and it seemed to have degrade my overall connection pretty dramatically.

In Event 2, was not aware of what the iPhone was doing, it was all related to my Macbook Pro. Believe iPhone stayed connected.

As to it being an AP, where is the cable connected from router 1? Did you turn off dhcp on router2? Sounds like you setup static IP on the WAN?? Because lan IP is always static on any router. So that does not seem like AP to me.

Also you say its a different SSID? - not something you would do with an AP setup normally.

If you router does not have AP mode, to use it as AP you would connect it to your first router using a LAN port of the 2nd router. You would change the lan IP of the AP router to be on the same network as your 1st router. dhcp server would be off on the 2nd router using as AP. Wan interface on router used as AP is normally not used.

Only if it has AP mode where wan is added to the lan/wifi bridge would you be able to use it - and if you have this mode it might by default turn off dhcp server on this device. Maybe not?

You were not doing anything on the macbook pro that would cause an issue where you? It was not entering the network.. So your wireless network blipped -- if you have no event to relate to that.. Like I said maybe your wireless phone rang? Maybe your wife was cooking some popcorn. Maybe someone was driving by and was trying to hack you? There are like a freaking hundred things that could cause wireless network to blip.. Interference from wireless networks around you.

What SSID are you using? Are there any in the area that are the same? SSID should be UNIQUE, and it should be broadcast!!! Hiding provides NOTHING and just makes accessing your network harder, and can cause all kinds of problems.

We are squeaking out little tiny tidbits of info here - so we are on the right track. But you have given us nothing to work other than a odd wireless glitch.. Which yeah sorry to say it happens now and then no matter what how stable of router you have.

If you think its your iphone doing it.. Then you should be able to repeat that over and over again. So you say when you come home your iphone kills your wifi. ok then why does it not kill it after you have connected? Or does it -- disconnect your phone and then reconnect it to your wireless.. Does it reset your wifes vpn?

Then maybe it was a dupe ip from before that your phone had if doesn't do it on disconnect and reconnect. Need to know what IPs your devices where all using before, etc..

When it happens again -- what is actually wrong?? Is your pcs saying they are not connected to the wireless? Are they saying limited connectivity? Look at their IPs -- do they have any? Can you ping the router ip? your gateway from ipconfig /all on windows box, mac you can view from term and netstat -r will give you your gateway, etc.

What is your lease times if you have an IP, even just generally look at your windows pc now ipconfig /all what does it show for your dhcp lease? Is it hours, or days? When you have a problem again did it match up to end of lease or 50% mark of lease?

Details, Details, Details! You need to know the actual symptoms of what is happening and you need to understand what is going on with the phone if you believe its that. Just because you walk in the house and your wife says network is not working does not mean its your phone.. Could of been down for few minutes and you just walked in. If was your phone then you should be able to duplicate the problem with just disconnect and reconnect -- or just walking out of range with it and then back into range, etc.

Or change its IP to static that clearly does not conflict with anything on your current network, or setup a reservation so there is no way for it to get anything other than 1 specific IP. Some threads - which not sure are legit or not suggested that the way macs come back onto a network that they had a dhcp IP before don't verify that they can have that lease again and just start using the IP. With some routers that do not maintain lease records for long periods could reassign this IP to different device. So understanding your lease time could help in figuring out if this is the problem. But as I said before unless your phone like took the ip of the router -- it should not cause an issue with anything other than the device that it stepped on.

  • 7 months later...

I hope you all do not mind that I reopen this topic. Was there a solution the problem found? If yes, what turned out to be the solution?

We have a similar problem as DirtyLarry has on our office network. It took us quite a long time to figure out the problem was related to an iPhone connecting to the network. (not just wifi goes down, LAN aswell)

The problem is that our internet service interupts (sometimes up to multiple times per hour), so at first we had a long diagnostic track by our ISP-company. Early on it was already clear that the modem/router started to reboot, but at first the phoneline was blaimed. Interference on the phoneline would cause the ADSL modem to reset itself if the interference would get to high. It took quite some time to trace the problem to the WiFi Access point, but finally it was clear the Access point causes the modem/router to reboot, thus loosing all internet connections.

With the accesspoint taken offline the problems were over (wifi on the modem/router has been disabled). No Wifi connection were available at that point. After some more days of making sure the connection was stable now, we started one by one connecting devices to the network by wifi, by starting with the AP without any connections, each with enough time in between to make sure connection remained stable (approx 4 hours between each device, 2 per day).

Finaly it turned out the network crashed with the connection of an iPhone. It took no longer than 5 minutes for the network to fail after the iPhone connected.

At first we blaimed the AP (D-Link DAP2553): probably it had something to do with the communication between this D-Link and the iPhone, since the D-Link was a relatively new addition to our network (approx 8 months). We have had this network running for 3 years without any problem and also with iPhones connected thtough WiFi with no problems so we figured the newest addition would cause the conflict. But after replacing the D-Link with our old Linksys WAP54G the problem remained: with the iPhone being able to make a connection to the wireless network the router reboots itself at any given time. At the moment we are trying Wifi through a Linksys WAP-610N AP and still the same issues when a iphone is connected.

So now, three months after our initial problems started (we can specificly date this problem: it started on July 12th. Before that time we had a sporadic drop in connection, but starting that thursday our connection was higly erratic) we finaly know for sure the problem is the (either, we have 3 in our network) iphone and not the Ap, router or any other Wifi devices.

Some data about our network setup.

  • ADSL connection through modem/router, which runs 1 UTP to a switch from were LAN connections are dived over our offices. Through a wall outlet we have connected an AP through LAN.
  • SSID is broadcasting and unique on a channel that is not used. We have tried different SSID's, same problem.
  • Wifi security is WPA2 (personall)
  • Modem/Router is DHCP server in internal range (192.168.1.xxx)
  • 2 of the 3 iphones are Iphone 4S's, that run on iOS 5.1. The 3rd iphone is an older iphone 3, do not know the iOS version but am fairly sure the connection also drops by connection just this iPhone.
  • Currently I have MAC-filtering enabled on the AP to make sure the Iphones cannot connect, even if they have the password for the wifi network (only started using this about 1 month ago, so this is not the problem)
  • The IP addresses of most devices are not static. But my administrator-page of the modem/router shows the device connected, their MAC addresses and their IP's, so I am sure there are no duplicated. Also my virusscan/firewall program (Eset Smart Security) pops up a warning if duplicate IP addresses are present in the network. We have had that happen with a Samsung phone, but this never had causes a disruption of the entire network.
  • We are able to repeat the problem over and over. Just have the iphone connect and wait an hour. Additional remark what we have noticed this morning but it may be nothing: with 1 iphone 4S on the wifi network and placing it on the desk-charger, the internet connection of the network dropped. Placing it at the charger again, again caused the connection to drop. This requires further testing. But we had also a connection dropped when the iphone received a whatsapp message, or just by plain doing nothing (that we can see at least). When connecting, everything appears fine, connection does not drop at that instance...
  • DCHP lease (checked on my desktop) was given this morning when booting up and expires just under 26 years from now (!). Not a problem here I would assume, since all computers are powered down in the evening and the cellphones return home with their owners so get disconnected aswell.

On my desktop terminal (LAN connection) I have the program "servers alive" running continuously (starting after we learned the problem was with the AP and not the ISP, so this is not the cause) which I have setup to ping three different website, our ISP's DNS-IP and the standard local gateway (modem/router). This way I monitor the connection and get notified when connection is lost. I have it set up to send 5 ping packages every 10sec to the different IP-addresses. This is what I have learned so far:

When I get notice connection is down (pings do not reach a remote website's IP), all other checks turn 'red' aswell. (3 websites and the DNS). The ping to the gateway IP stays active. I have not timed this exaclty but after approx 20 seconds the gateway ping turns 'red' also (ping to gateway fails). After this it takes somewhere between 1 and 2 minutes for the ping to gateway to succeed again (in this time the modem is rebooting, I have checked, and thus not able to return a ping request). After the gateway turn 'green' again in the checkprogram, it takes approx 15 seconds for all other websites are 'green' again, mening the connection to the internet is up again (all times mentioned above are approximate, since ping-command are send every 10 seconds).

So far, we have not come closer to a solution yet. We hope you all have, since no further remarks were made on this thread. Usualy this means the problem was resolved.

my mother says the same thing. she purchased an iphone 4 and an ipad 1 about 1-2 years ago. i replaced her old router with a newer cisco one. she keeps telling me that she has to power on and off the router a few times a day. cause her ipad 1 looses connection. after a power down of the router its good for while. i didn't believe her but now that i see other people r having this same issue i will go assign static ip's to here devices. i have 2 iphones and 2 ipad 2's on my network at home along with a bunch of other things and i have no issues. but i have them all added in into the reservation table by mac and assigned address to them. i will try this on her network and see how it works for her.

Thanks

LilSnoop, please let me know if this worked and how to accomplish this. A reservation table is probably what I have now (mac address filtering) or is it not? But you mentioned you have assigned an address to them. I do not know what you mean by this and therefore am unable to try this myself.

But yes, probably your mom experiences the same. Connection is probably lost, due to the router rebooting itself (so if she does not power it down it should be okay after a minute or two).

But I am anxious to know if this could be a solution.

I am NOT anxious to set static IP's addressess for the iPhone's, since they are employee own phones. With static IP's they cannot join their home- or other networks. Unless you are able to assign a static IP for a specific SSID which I do not think is possible.

Just tried an iPad2 with iOS 4.3 and also the connection failed within 5 minutes. It is 100% certain the Apple devices. Other brand (android) phones and laptops can connect and do not interupt connection.

on my cisco E4200, this is everything on my network, i have entered everything by mac address (i erased all the mac addresses) then assigned a ip to all of them. i have never lost connectivity or had conflicts. i will try this at my parent today hopefully to see if this fixes her issue.

Untitled2.jpg

Thanks

I had a similar problem. The internet on my PC or laptop would grind to a halt whenever an Apple device was turned on. We have 2 iPads, 1 iPhone and 1 iPod Touch connected to my wireless network.

After weeks of testing I solved the issue.................problem was caused due to the notifications on the apps on the Apple devices.

on my cisco E4200, this is everything on my network, i have entered everything by mac address (i erased all the mac addresses) then assigned a ip to all of them. i have never lost connectivity or had conflicts. i will try this at my parent today hopefully to see if this fixes her issue.

Did this have any effect at your mom's lil'snoop? I have checked my router (thompson TG789vn with crap ISP firmware :angry: ) but there seems nothing to be addressed directly. The only thing that may be entered is "Always same IP' once the device is connected. I cannot enter an IP address for a device in my router directly.

But if it is certain this is the solution I am happy to buy a cisco router and hook it up after my modem router (eventhough only 1 port is utilized. From that one port the connection goes to a 24port Cisco Catalyst 2960 Switch)

After weeks of testing I solved the issue.................problem was caused due to the notifications on the apps on the Apple devices.

How is this to be resolved. I am not an Apple user myself. What instructions do I need to give the 3 iPhone users in the office?

Cheers!

My housemate's iPhone causes the WiFi here to go stupid and stop working on all other devices until I reboot the router. Have you attempted changing the wireless channel? It didn't help me, but worth a shot.

My solution was to MAC ban him. Break my wireless? You don't get wireless access.

Unfortunately this was not the solution. Turning all notifications off on one iPhone still causes the network to crash again after connecting to wifi.

Turns out there are still apps that send notifications on the iphone, eventhough notifictions are switched off in settings. For these apps we need to switch notifications off in the app manually. We keep this under advicement and will check again next week, once we are sure there are no more apps serving notifications on the iphone.

My housemate's iPhone causes the WiFi here to go stupid and stop working on all other devices until I reboot the router. Have you attempted changing the wireless channel? It didn't help me, but worth a shot.

Yes, we have switched wifi channels; no solution there. :(

My solution was to MAC ban him. Break my wireless? You don't get wireless access.

We are doing that now until we find the solution. But that is sort of like curing the disease by killing the patient. :rofl:

  • 2 weeks later...

For those of you having problems with your wireless network with multiple clients, especially after adding tablets or iphones here are some possible solutions:

You can try setting the DHCP server in your router to Start IP Assignment with something like xxx.xxx.0.100 and then you simply go on the client PC, phone, tablet, and set it to "Static" IP address and enter the IP address there. Recent android builds (tablets, phones) were found to have serious problems using DHCP auto assignment. Keep the IP addresses in a document or on a notepad like LilSnoop40 has done. You do NOT have to figure out how to do this in your router in order to use static IPs, the only requirement is that you set the "Starting IP" in the router to be xxx.xxx.xxx.100 so that the automatic DHCP assignment begins beyond your own range of self-assigned IPs so the router doesn't try to use them. Every router supports setting the "Starting DHCP IP address" and it should be very easy to find. You can also turn off the DHCP Server option in your router completely and go with static IPs on everything. Note that when using static IPs you need to know/enter the Gateway IP (the IP of the router, usually 192.168.xxx.1 or 10.0.xxx.1) and the DNS server IPs from your local internet provider. If you want, you could also use Google's public primary DNS server IPs which is 8.8.8.8

One last solution but a little more technical (and not supported yet by a lot of routers) is to create an additional VLAN with a different SSID and use that or the tablets and phones and turn on AP isolation so that they can't do anything except use the internet (WAN).

Remember that you can always just buy another router for the tablets and phone for $20-40. It's a cheap solution. Phones and tablets generally don't need any access to your LAN other than internet so this works fine. You have to read a little about how to add a second access point to your network though.

For those of you having problems with your wireless network with multiple clients, especially after adding tablets or iphones here are some possible solutions:

You can try setting the DHCP server in your router to Start IP Assignment with something like xxx.xxx.0.100 and then you simply go on the client PC, phone, tablet, and set it to "Static" IP address and enter the IP address there. Recent android builds (tablets, phones) were found to have serious problems using DHCP auto assignment.

We've certainly come across this in my house. There are quite a few smartphones, ipods, ipads, kindle fires, laptops just between my fiance, her kids, and me. If you have a crappy DHCP server you end up with conflicting IP addresses that can cause all kinds of issues. Since installing DD-WRT and making DHCP assignments, all those problems went away. I'm seeing 30+ day up-time these days. I don't think DHCP was Dirty Larry's problem though.

Quite related. If I was to Facetime someone, in my house via WiFi and they're on the same WiFi (My house) my whole router would just clog up and crash until I do a hard reset. Security services such as filtering and forwarding would reset for the duration as well.

I've since changed my router, and recently got a Samsung S3.

  • 1 month later...

Whew! I'm not crazy! I have been having the same issues as everyone else. What finally revealed the culprit was the other night when my daughter arrived home from work with her iPhone 5. My gaming rig is located above the garage and once she arrived home and the garage door went up the wifi/router/modem crashed. Usaully I have to hard boot but decided to venture downstairs to be sure she was home. Once I returned back to the computer the network had reset itself and all was fine. I noticed that the thread was a little old and apologize for reopening it but this network/wifi crash/reboot is driving me crazy. Has anyone found an "easy' solution yet?

Thanks,

Slacker8

  • 2 months later...

**** UPDATE ****

It seem to be a problem with newer iOS versions. (as mentioned earlier it would be no problem in the past, iPhones were on the WiFi network).

Now with update to 6.1 (and higher, 6.2 already available) the problem is resolved. Iphones and Ipad that have updated to newer iOS can connect again without disrupting the WiFi network.

  • 1 month later...

*** Update (again) ***

:cry: We're back to mac-banning all iPhones. All iPhones are on iOS 6.1.2 and within 5 minutes on connection to the wireless network (does not matter from which access point) the modem/router crashes and reboots, causing network/internet failure for all computers and devices conected to that modem/router through various switches :angry: . It is certainly not a DHCP problem, checked that. It seemed to work with iOS 6.1.1, but considering these recent failures again, I'm not that sure anymore. And we're 100% certain that it is the iPhones and not the laptops or Android phones on the wireless network that cause this. This was discoverd by elimination and just try and try one device at a time. :/

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

Just created a Neowin account just to post my reaction here... as I'm frustrated as h!#ll since I'm searching for a solution for soooo long. This seems the only place where people have concluded (like me) by elimination trials that it simply HAS to be something to do with Apple product's Wi-Fi connectivity. I hope some of you might have some new insights and experiences to share!

For more than a year now I'm having the exact same experiences as described above. Summarized: it seems my router crashes when an apple device (could be 2011 iMac, iPhone 4s or iPhone 4, iPad, iPad 3, all different OS versions...) tries to make a connection to my router or has just been able to get a connection for a couple of minutes. As others report, it seems to occur mainly when people 'come home' and devices are 'added' to the wifi DHCP. After the router's wi-fi has 'crashed' all devices will default back to using 3G or LAN if available. (mostly LAN keeps working, sometimes all internet connectivity is gone...)

Strange enough I though it were the mobile devices who only caused this erratic behavior, until I bought a brandnew iMac (mid 2011, Mountain Lion updated continuously) which couldn't hold a Wi-Fi connection for a day. Same experiences as with the Apple mobile devices.

Also, to confirm the experiences of others, I ONLY have this problem with Apple products. Every other platform or brand works seamlessly in combination with my router for a month or so. (Including use of torrents and all those other probable causes / usual suspects...) Try to use some Apple products and I won't have to wait a single day before problems start occuring. It almost seems like some fundamental flaw in the connectivity stacks of both OSX and iOS.

Anyone solved the problem or got some tips to futher diagnose the problem and trace the origins? It seems I can't find anything in the logs on either the router or my iMac...

Thanks in advance! Hoping we can combine our knowledge to squash this thing once and for all. (or at least find the culprit... as the router manufacturer will point to Apple and Apple obviously points to the router manufacturer..)

(P.S. My router is a TP-Link WR1043ND and its 'SYS' light stops blinking (either in On or in Off position) as soon as the Wi-Fi stops working, which seems to only occur when an Apple product has tried to logon or has connected a little while.)

Greetings from The Netherlands!

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Anyway, as already mentioned, what we have today is the ZimaBoard 2 Starter Kit, and here are the full specifications: ZimaBoard 2 Model 832, 1664 CPU Intel Core N150 (4x E Cores/Threads, Max burst up to 3.6 GHz) TDP: 6W (Base) 10W (Max) Graphics Intel UHD Graphics 24 EUs (1.00 GHz) Memory 8 GB, 16 GB DDR5 4800MT/s non ECC SODIMM (soldered) Disk Capacity 60 TB (30 TB x 2) Supported RAID Types TRAID, TRAID +, RAID0, RAID1, RAID5, RAID 6, RAID 10 Storage 2 x SATA 3.0 6Gb/s Ports with Power Bootloader 32 GB, 64 GB eMMC Network 2x RJ-45 2.5 GbE PCIe 1 x PCIe 3.0 (via LPC) USB Ports 2 x USB-A 3.1 (5 Gbps) Display Mini-DisplayPort 1.4 (4K@60Hz) Hardware Transcoding Engine H.264, H.265, MPEG-4, VC-1 Maximum resolution: 4K (4096 x 2160); Maximum FPS: 60 Virtualization Intel® AES New Instructions Intel® Virtualization Technology (VT-x) Intel® Virtualization Technology for Directed I/O (VT-d) Size (H/W/D) 140mm x 83mm x 31mm Weight 0.4 kg (only ZimaBoard 2 device) Power 12v 5A Power Supply Warranty 1 year (Global) 2 Years (EU) OS ZimaOS v1.6.1 MSRP $339, $399 ($548.60) As you can see above, there are two variants of the ZimaBoard 2. The lesser variant has half the eMMC storage and 8 GB less RAM, although it also costs $60 less than the top variant we are testing today. The above pricing is only for the ZimaBoard 2. I put the MSRP of the Starter Kit next to it in brackets, although as of publishing, it is discounted to $534.50. The ZimaBoard 2 started life on Kickstarter and shipped to backers in August last year. It became available via the official website in late 2025 and Q1 2026. This hobbyist NAS contains the still relatively new N150 Intel CPU released in the first quarter of 2025, with support for DisplayPort 1.4, HDMI 2.1, although in this case, the memory is integrated into the board itself, so it will not be possible to upgrade or expand the amount. It also supports AV1 decoding, as well as H.264, VP8, VP9, H.265 (8 bit), and H.265 (10 bit). The different capabilities in the Alder Lake-N (and Twin Lake) series are listed below. Processor E-cores L3-cache Turbo clock GPU GPU-clock TDP Intel N355 8 6 MB 3.9 GHz 32 EUs 1.35 GHz 9 W Intel Core 3 N350 3.9 GHz 1.35 GHz 7 W Intel Core i3-N305 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz 9 W Intel Core i3-N300 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz Intel N250 4 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz 6 W Intel Processor N200 3.7 GHz 0.75 GHz Intel N150 3.6 GHz 24 EUs 1 GHz Intel N97 1.2 GHz 12 W Intel Processor N100 3.4 GHz 0.75 GHz 6 W The CPU is part of the Twin Lake series that sits near the bottom of the N-series, designed for low- powered systems and entry-level laptops, and as such has a base level TDP of just 6W. As I have noted before, we are seeing another NAS with a great amount of RAM. It's important to mention that the ZimaBoard 2's memory is integrated into the base board (which is why they have two variants of it). As a reminder, up until a couple of years ago, it was commonplace to only get 2 or 4GB max on a flagship Synology or QNAP home NAS. Ever since the likes of TerraMaster and more have entered the market with ample RAM sizes included in their NAS offerings, it has gone a long way in forcing the hands of the traditional makers to up their game a bit. First impressions The Starter Kit came in one outer box with several packages inside it (shown above). I forgot to take pics of it because when it arrived, it wasn't clear what was inside, and I had to confirm with my contact that I received the entire Starter Kit. In the box ZimaBoard 2 ZimaBoard 2 HDD Expansion Bracket + PCIe card frame Zimaboard Mini DisplayPort Male to HDMI Female Cable 4K 60Hz Zimaboard PCIe 3.0 x4 to Dual NVMe M.2 SSD Adapter Card Quick guide [full online guide] Limited warranty notice Screws Design Where to start? You'd be forgiven for mistaking it as an SSD enclosure if not for all the ports on it. It is completely made out of metal, and the top is an entire heatsink. It has a premium feel about it, but it definitely looks like a hobby device. As you will see, the completed build looks like it belongs in a server or meter closet rather than as a showpiece on someone's desk. On what I am calling the rear, there's a Mini DisplayPort (1.4), two 2.5 GbE ports, with Type A 3.1 USB ports, and then the barrel connector port. Around the front, there are two SATA6 ports with a power connector in the middle. Left side Right side One side is completely free of ports. On the other there's a slit that allows for the feed of a CPU fan cable, and a PCIe 3.0 X4 slot. Top Bottom The top is entirely made up of a heatsink except for the extended height for the I/O on the rear. Around the other side, you can find the ZIMA branding and some regulatory information stamped near the bottom. As you may see from the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2, it scratches quite easily from just moving it around on my Ikea island. Teardown Before we get started, let's have a look at this thing on the inside. The steps to get to the board are as follows: Remove the four smaller Torx screws on the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2; Remove the four larger Torx screws on the sides of the device; Carefully unstick the CMOS battery from the PCB; Remove two Phillips screws on the PCB; Lift out the PCB. Yes, as you can tell from the instructions, you need three different tools to remove Torx and Phillips screws (10 in total), and unhelpfully, one of the screws is located under the CMOS battery, which is stuck onto the PCB. Building Now comes the fun part. Because the ZimaSpace website does not provide any guidance on how to put the Starter Kit together. They only have guidance for connecting the CPU fan. However, they did upload a video to their YouTube channel that shows the entire process. To install the fan, first remove the four screws on the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2, then on the inside, there is a CPU FAN connector where you can attach the fan, reattach the ZimaBoard 2 frame, and feed the fan cable through the provided slit. Then remove the nearest screw on the side and attach the fan frame to the side of the device using the same screw. ZimaBard 2 screws Aligning the screws Bottom view Remember those four screws we removed to access the CPU FAN? Longer screws are provided in the box with the HDD Expansion Bracket, which is what you will now need to attach the ZimaBoard 2 to it. Helpfully, the orientation on how to attach it is made obvious when the frame can only be screwed on at the same overall length as the ZimaBoard 2. If you do it the wrong way around (which is what I did initially) one side hangs off the frame, and it becomes difficult to attach the PCIe Adapter Card cable. PCIe card frame Other side PCIe slot connector Next, it's time to attach the PCIe card frame, which is fastened with the help of 3.5-inch SATA HDD (3 screws). These are toolless screws that you can just use your fingers to fasten them with. Then it is time to connect the provided PCIe cable with the slot connector on one side of the ZimaBoard 2, feed it through the bottom of the HDD frame, and fasten it with two standoffs. Both bracket options 2280 standoffs with 2x 4TB MP44Q The PCIe 3.0 X4 card comes with a short bracket option, handy if you decide to place it inside a different NAS or rack server, but here we need the long bracket. Oddly enough, the M.2 standoffs were preinstalled into the 22110 position, but extra standoffs are included in the box, which I installed at the 2280 position for our use. I added a couple of MP44Q M.2 PCIe 4.0 SSDs (2 x 4TB) that can be availed on Amazon for $478.99 (the lowest price for 3 months) that TEAMGROUP supplied us with Then we have the almost completed build, you just need to push the card into the PCIe slot. Unfortunately, IceWhale Technologies did not provide a screw for the PCIe card frame (this is also apparent in their own video). Here it is at several different angles, with the last pic showing the SATA Y-Cable connected to the two WD Red Plus 4TB drives. Setup and Usage Next, you connect your cables to the I/O, and the ZimaBoard 2 powers on automatically, as there is no power button on the device. Power is controlled through the Settings in ZimaOS. BIOS The ZimaBoard 2 includes an Aptio BIOS from American Megatrends [1, 2, 3], and you can setup pretty much everything here including the boot order, which is locked to the UEFI OS, however above that choice you can enable or disable booting to a SATA/USB bootloader so this would still allow you to switch to an alternative bootloader and boot from it, or disable it to instead always start from the first disk with an OS installed on it. Initial Setup Upon connecting to the LAN and booting up, the ZimaBoard 2 can be reached by navigating to the IP address (shown if you have a monitor connected), or you can find it using the ZIMA Client desktop application, which is essentially a Zima device finder. Initializing the ZimaBoard 2 The ZimaOS setup process is pretty straightforward, through a wizard, and in full above, it basically consists of setting up an account and some handy tips, and that's that! Post Setup (ZimaOS update) Upon first boot, you are alerted that there is a ZimaOS update from 1.5.0 to 1.6.1, which I applied; the full process is shown above with the changelog. ZimaBoard 2 Storage Setup Next, it is time to set up the storage. ZimaOS actually throws everything onto the eMMC flash drive; it is also the default location of AppData, which is definitely something to be wary about, as the 45GB available storage could fill up quickly. HDDs I first attempted to create a Storage Pool using the two 4TB WD Red Plus NAS drives, and got an error message: After several attempts and then looking online, I discovered it was a bug with ZimaOS where the fix was simply to reboot ZimaOS and then try again, this time I was able to create a RAID mirror using the two drives. SSDs I did the same for the SSDs, as you will see in the above gallery, when I created the second Storage Pool, it only allowed me to select available drives. ZimaBoard 2 AppData ZimaOS comes with an App Store that includes a repository of almost 400 apps, so you will be able to find most of what you'll need for a NAS (although after a quick search, I wasn't able to find a Surveillance Manager), and now comes the important part: moving the default AppData location off the 45GB eMMC and onto a larger volume: Open Settings Then Apps Then, in the Select a new location field, click on the new Storage volume you want to move it to (in my case, the Apps Storage Pool), which is the SSD RAID mirror. Confirm the Migration warning Be praised! You can also do this for Docker (which by default installs onto the 45GB eMMC flash drive) and the User database. Plex Setup Next, I tested the configuration by installing the Plex Server app from the App Store. The library folders must already exist (which I placed into the Storage Pool). Plex Server setup is straightforward and requires very little configuration. In my case, all I had to do was add the media path I just created, which you can also browse to using the folder icon in the path field. In addition, you can now map the new Media library in Windows Explorer using the Zima Client. Oddly enough, it is not possible to access the ZimaBoard 2 over the Network Neighborhood; you must map drives using the client, which is shown in the last image in the above gallery. I watched one of my Blu-Ray rips, which is Dolby Vision with Dolby Atmos, and the content played fine with no stuttering or buffering, which is what anyone needs in this scenario. ZimaBoard 2 Zima Client mobile app There's also a client for mobile. It is pretty barebones, as shown in the above gallery, for example, the Apps screen launches the WebUI for that app, and the Backup must be done manually. On opening Backup, you can select internal storage folders on your phone to backup to the ZimaBoard 2's storage, and although this is constantly scanned, the backup action itself must be manually triggered. There is an option to allow foreground backup (last image in the above gallery), but this basically means the queued backup gets triggered when you manually open the app. Benchmarking SATA PCIe 3.0 X4 A CrystalDiskMark test on a mapped network drive from within a Windows 11 25H2 PC (image above) connected over a 2.5 GbE was well within acceptable ranges. Writes were generally better on the SSD RAID mirror. SATA PCIe 3.0 X1 I also ran the NAS Performance tester, which tests the link speed performance. As you can see, it pretty much maxes out the 2.5GbE connection. Of course, you can also opt to bond the two 2.5 GbE connections for a bit more umph, but I didn't do that. Thermals Top PCIe card SATA HDDs Next, I measured some hotspots while playing content on Plex. It's fair to say this will perform better than a NAS that is enclosed in a metal or plastic case, as almost everything storage-wise is exposed! Anyway, the ZimaBoard 2 did not break a sweat with Plex streaming or disk benchmarks. ZimaOS Factory Reset ZimaOS does not include a factory reset option. Instead, you have to download the ZimaOS image and flash it to the eMMC manually. The flashing process is shown in the above gallery. The steps to do so are listed below: Download the ZimaOS image here; Open BalenaEtcher (Run as Administrator) and select the image; Select your inserted USB drive (min 8 GB) Flash to it; Connect your USB drive, monitor, keyboard, USB hub (optional), mouse (optional), and network cable (recommended) to the ZimaBoard 2; Connect power and press F11 continuously; Select your USB drive starting with UEFI in the boot device menu; Press Enter on the Install ZimaOS option; Select /dev/mmcblk0 (MMC) flash drive as target; Confirm with (three times) to wipe the target disk; Wait a couple of minutes while ZimaOS installs; Remove the USB drive and confirm with a reboot; Your ZimaBoard 2 has been factory reset. However, you don't have to stick with ZimaOS, in fact the company also offers official CasaOS images, that are based on Debian; or as they say themselves, put anything you want on this "hackable single board server" it's up to you. Conclusion I had a lot of fun putting this together. I've custom-built all my own PCs and servers since the 90s, and this is the first time I have had to put a NAS together. Even if the actual base ZimaBoard 2 was already a completed build, it still feels pretty custom. I just wish that IceWhale Technology included a getting-started guide in the box for the Start Kit, which would have really completed this kit. Instead, I had to search for the official video on the YouTube channel to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong. So who is this for? Definitely the hobbyist who is comfortable building their own PC and servers. It also has a much smaller footprint than its nearest equivalent (in terms of specs), like the Beelink Me Pro, which is another NAS I will be testing soon. Although the Beelink does not come with the PCIe 3.0 X4 expansion, the ZimaBoard 2 Starter Kit suddenly looks to be a great bargain, even if it only offers the two 3.5-inch bays over the four in the other example. It makes a lot of sense to use Intel's N150 chip inside a NAS; it is more than capable of doing what the ZimaBoard 2 is intended for, media streaming and backup. It also looks like the IceWhale Technology staff are quite active in the official forums helping people with issues they come across with ZimaOS and the devices, peer support seems to be good as well, I was quickly able to find why I was not able to create a new Storage Pool in ZimaOS v1.6.1 even though that is quite a serious bug, hopefully it will be fixed in the next update. If you are comfortable with the command line and Docker, you'll be fine. You can do great things with this hardware. This was my first time with ZimaOS. It seems a bit barebones in comparison to the likes of Synology DSM, TOS, and UGOS, but it has a ton of apps to get you started with your home or small business NAS. Where to buy As of publishing, IceWhale Technology is running a discount of up to 5% for the Starter Kit. If you opt to get just the ZimaBoard 2 itself, it does come with a SATA Y-Cable, so you will be able to connect up to two 3.5-inch HDDs to it. ZimaBoard 2 1668 Starter Kit for $534.50 on Amazon US (was $548.60) ZimaBoard 2 832 Starter Kit for $372.88 on Amazon US (was $390.60) Zimaboard 2 1668 (16GB+64GB) for $419.90 on Amazon US Zimaboard 2 832 (8GB+32GB) for $359.90 on Amazon Disclosure: IceWhale Technology provided a free sample without any editorial input or review pre-approval. Good to know The Amazon link is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. 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    • It's in the Insider's group so yes it's technically beta, though these days it's hard to see much of a difference unless you opt for the most extreme beta builds, which I don't. When I moved here from the Release Preview channel I did so primarily because I wanted to see how well the restored taskbar functionality (restored from Win10, and earlier) is working and whether it was time to finally abandon SAB--and it is--working fine, so far. Not as polished as SAB, but it'll do for me.
    • I've been using MWB Premium for a number of years so that along with Windows updates and updated browser should be fine. Thanks for that.
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