Feedback on components for 6-Core Build


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I need your thoughts.

Max Budget: 1600 USD. No AMD. Air cooled (unless you insist). Must survive 5 years (GPU / SSDs will receive more frequent upgrades). Gaming and Development mostly.

Thermaltake Chaser Series Chaser MK-I (VN300M1W2N) Black SECC ATX Full Tower Computer Case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133191

NEEDS: The case must be big for easy install, easy drive installation, and cable management (no need for contortionism and a light). SSD friendly. Plenty of connectors in the front. Should be something that I can reuse for another build. Quiet.

ASRock X99 Extreme6 LGA 2011-v3 Intel X99 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157541

NEEDS: No bugs in UEFI OC settings. Sane voltages if using auto OC features (if any). Really descriptive settings in UEFI would be a plus and overall idiot friendly design. Plenty of SATAIII ports. Good software and support.

Intel Core i7-5820K Haswell-E 6-Core 3.3GHz LGA 2011-v3 140W BX80648I75820K Desktop Processor

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117402

NEEDS: No need to upgrade for the next five years. Easy small OC just like Ivy.

Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 140mm and 120mm SSO CPU Cooler

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608024

NEEDS: Handles low OC problem free. Quiet.

Crucial 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2133 (PC4-17000) Desktop Memory Model CT4K8G4DFD8213

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0ZX2C40729

NEEDS: Lack of a parity errors is a plus.

Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - Full Version (32 & 64-bit)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832416711&cm_re=WIndows_8-_-32-416-711-_-Product

NEEDS: Windows 10 but it hasn't came out yet

INTROP NEEDS: Motherboard and case fans should work together. Motherboard and case's front panel should work together. Plenty of room for things like more SSDs and a second GPU.

SSDs / BD-RW / PSU / GPU will be stripped from existing box. I think that covers it.

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I need your thoughts.

Max Budget: 1600 USD. No AMD. Air cooled (unless you insist). Must survive 5 years (GPU / SSDs will receive more frequent upgrades). Gaming and Development mostly.

Thermaltake Chaser Series Chaser MK-I (VN300M1W2N) Black SECC ATX Full Tower Computer Case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133191

NEEDS: The case must be big for easy install, easy drive installation, and cable management (no need for contortionism and a light). SSD friendly. Plenty of connectors in the front. Should be something that I can reuse for another build. Quiet.

ASRock X99 Extreme6 LGA 2011-v3 Intel X99 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157541

NEEDS: No bugs in UEFI OC settings. Sane voltages if using auto OC features (if any). Really descriptive settings in UEFI would be a plus and overall idiot friendly design. Plenty of SATAIII ports. Good software and support.

Intel Core i7-5820K Haswell-E 6-Core 3.3GHz LGA 2011-v3 140W BX80648I75820K Desktop Processor

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117402

NEEDS: No need to upgrade for the next five years. Easy small OC just like Ivy.

Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 140mm and 120mm SSO CPU Cooler

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608024

NEEDS: Handles low OC problem free. Quiet.

Crucial 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2133 (PC4-17000) Desktop Memory Model CT4K8G4DFD8213

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0ZX2C40729

NEEDS: Lack of a parity errors is a plus.

Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - Full Version (32 & 64-bit)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832416711&cm_re=WIndows_8-_-32-416-711-_-Product

NEEDS: Windows 10 but it hasn't came out yet

INTROP NEEDS: Motherboard and case fans should work together. Motherboard and case's front panel should work together. Plenty of room for things like more SSDs and a second GPU.

SSDs / BD-RW / PSU / GPU will be stripped from existing box. I think that covers it.

 

A 75o watt PSU is fine. If you go over too far you will shorten the life of your board and efficiency as the higher you crank the watts the worst the efficiency gets. Newer CPUs and DDR 4 ram use about 1/2 the watts of their 2009 ancestors.

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A 75o watt PSU is fine. If you go over too far you will shorten the life of your board and efficiency as the higher you crank the watts the worst the efficiency gets. Newer CPUs and DDR 4 ram use about 1/2 the watts of their 2009 ancestors.

The current one I am using is 850W. I think I am set there. :)
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If you want 5 solid and completely reliable years, I strongly suggest using liquid cooling versus air. It'll preserve that CPU in ways I can't even begin to list, and it's really worth the bit of extra money and effort. :yes:

 

That aside, looks like an awesome build and you'll definitely get your money's worth.

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Liquid cooling is great n'all, but I've got a 7, and 2, 11 year old machines in my house running right now, and they're both on stock fans and heatsinks (amd)

Your choice in Case allows it, so it's really your choice (any cooling system can fail, but fans are usually easily fixed or replaced, hell a lot of my old fans that 'seized', had just dried out, worked some oil into the rotor spindle and they began working again)

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If you want 5 solid and completely reliable years, I strongly suggest using liquid cooling versus air. It'll preserve that CPU in ways I can't even begin to list, and it's really worth the bit of extra money and effort. :yes:

 

That aside, looks like an awesome build and you'll definitely get your money's worth.

I've got an i7-5960x at work idling at 30c with air cooling and the CPU fan throttled to 50%. I don't think liquid brings much to the table outside overclocking and less dust.

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If you want 5 solid and completely reliable years, I strongly suggest using liquid cooling versus air. It'll preserve that CPU in ways I can't even begin to list, and it's really worth the bit of extra money and effort. :yes:

 

It would be interesting if you listed why? you cant make such a claim then not list a reason.

 

I had a Core 2 Duo E4500 that has been overclocked from 2.2ghz to 3ghz since 2007 on air cooling, my parents now have that machine and it still woks great in 2015.

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You want it to survive 5 years and your going to OC so your hoping it will survive your OC first.

Not really sure about ASRock unless you have too I suggest ASUS X99-A or GIGABYTE GA-X99-UD4.
32GB is a lot of RAM you likely will not need it all even with no paging file maybe go with 16Gb 4x4GB thats faster then add another set later if needed.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233694

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It would be interesting if you listed why? you cant make such a claim then not list a reason.

 

I had a Core 2 Duo E4500 that has been overclocked from 2.2ghz to 3ghz since 2007 on air cooling, my parents now have that machine and it still woks great in 2015.

A +45% overclock on air all this time? There's more to the story than this, I think. I've never overclocked a single machine I've owned, ever, out of sheer principle. You should never, ever have to do that in the first place. That thing must run as hot as a waffle iron. Yikes. If it works for you, good. Results will vary. I certainly don't recommend anyone else doing that.

 

 

I've got an i7-5960x at work idling at 30c with air cooling and the CPU fan throttled to 50%. I don't think liquid brings much to the table outside overclocking and less dust.

When you can keep a processor at 15C~28C consistently, even under heavy load, it will prevent degradation of the internal components due to heat. Ever notice how a processor will run slower the older it gets? That's due to heat above 45C. If your idle temps are 30C, chances are that under load your CPU will get a lot warmer than that. Liquid cooling will mitigate that issue almost completely.

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A +45% overclock on air all this time? There's more to the story than this, I think. I've never overclocked a single machine I've owned, ever, out of sheer principle. You should never, ever have to do that in the first place. That thing must run as hot as a waffle iron. Yikes. If it works for you, good. Results will vary. I certainly don't recommend anyone else doing that.

 

 

When you can keep a processor at 15C~28C consistently, even under heavy load, it will prevent degradation of the internal components due to heat. Ever notice how a processor will run slower the older it gets? That's due to heat above 45C. If your idle temps are 30C, chances are that under load your CPU will get a lot warmer than that. Liquid cooling will mitigate that issue almost completely.

You aren't going to see any noticeable degradation in 5 years much less 10 at 30c. I cap out at 43c.  I can keep it under 40 if I crank up the cpu fan to max.

 

I've got a Mac Mini that idles at 65c and peaks at 93c on a regular basis for the past three years without any issue or slowdown not due to throttling.

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im also going to recommend a liquid cooler. ive had my H80i for about 2 years. it's great. keeps the CPU cool and is silent.

 

I would not ever recommend anyone use a Asrock motherboard, but i know a lot of people will disagree with me. I'm an ASUS fan.

 

Is GPU not needed or just not listed yet?

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A +45% overclock on air all this time? There's more to the story than this, I think. I've never overclocked a single machine I've owned, ever, out of sheer principle. You should never, ever have to do that in the first place. That thing must run as hot as a waffle iron. Yikes. If it works for you, good. Results will vary. I certainly don't recommend anyone else doing that.

 

The Core 2 Duos were actually very good overclockers IIRC. Back then it wasn't unusual to see some chips (especially the lower end ones) getting good frequency increases.

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I've got an i7-5960x at work idling at 30c with air cooling and the CPU fan throttled to 50%. I don't think liquid brings much to the table outside overclocking and less dust.

I've got an AMD-FX 8370 OC to 4.5 and it's idle temp is 17-20C, and that is on air.

OP, I had a Phenom II x4 that has lasted over 5 years, why are you so determined to use Intel?

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I've got an AMD-FX 8370 OC to 4.5 and it's idle temp is 17-20C, and that is on air.

OP, I had a Phenom II x4 that has lasted over 5 years, why are you so determined to use Intel?

You must keep your home very chilly.

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A +45% overclock on air all this time? There's more to the story than this, I think. I've never overclocked a single machine I've owned, ever, out of sheer principle. You should never, ever have to do that in the first place. That thing must run as hot as a waffle iron. Yikes. If it works for you, good. Results will vary. I certainly don't recommend anyone else doing that.

 

With the Core 2 Duo E4500 you could push it a lot more than 3ghz, I'd suggest you read up on Core 2 Duo overclocking, what i'm telling you is really not that crazy.

 

Sure you shouldn't have to overclock, however when you can buy a budget processor and get similar performance to a processor which cost

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You must keep your home very chilly.

Not really, this is Florida, summer temps outside <90F inside 75-80F. I'm not using the stock cooler, I am using the Thermalright Venomous X CPU Cooler with Arctic Silver thermal compound.

 
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I've got an AMD-FX 8370 OC to 4.5 and it's idle temp is 17-20C, and that is on air.

OP, I had a Phenom II x4 that has lasted over 5 years, why are you so determined to use Intel?

 

 

 

Not really, this is Florida, summer temps outside <90F inside 75-80F. I'm not using the stock cooler, I am using the Thermalright Venomous X CPU Cooler with Arctic Silver thermal compound.

 

 

 

Your CPU is running at 62F to 68F, with inside temps at 75-80F? Your temp monitoring isn't working right then. Your CPU will never be less then your inside air temp unless maybe you are running a peltier cooler?

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Your CPU is running at 62F to 68F, with inside temps at 75-80F? Your temp monitoring isn't working right then. Your CPU will never be less then your inside air temp unless maybe you are running a peltier cooler?

I was slightly wrong:

 

Left column is Current temp, second is lowest, third is Highest and Last is Average

post-243659-0-39760500-1436556599.png

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I was slightly wrong:

 

Left column is Current temp, second is lowest, third is Highest and Last is Average

18.4c was for a split second when you turned it on.

 

You simply cannot go below ambient temperature with air cooling unless using a Peltier as xendrome mentioned.

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18.4c was for a split second when you turned it on.

 

You simply cannot go below ambient temperature with air cooling unless using a Peltier as xendrome mentioned.

+1  heat sink was probably cold, air inside pc was cold, etc. 29.9 would be a better representation of idle temp.

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With the Core 2 Duo E4500 you could push it a lot more than 3ghz, I'd suggest you read up on Core 2 Duo overclocking, what i'm telling you is really not that crazy.

 

Sure you shouldn't have to overclock, however when you can buy a budget processor and get similar performance to a processor which cost

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You want it to survive 5 years and your going to OC so your hoping it will survive your OC first.

Not really sure about ASRock unless you have too I suggest ASUS X99-A or GIGABYTE GA-X99-UD4.

32GB is a lot of RAM you likely will not need it all even with no paging file maybe go with 16Gb 4x4GB thats faster then add another set later if needed.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233694

I currently have an ASUS. Their UEFI was really buggy - skyroketed voltage at default clock speeds until I reset it (holding button on mobo - in UEFI reset did nothing). Also auto OC which I accidentally selected once gave like 1.4 + V.

So... I consider them idiots.

Will look at GIGABYTE when I get home.

32GB because right now I am sporting 32GB, but I can start with 16 GB and slowly work upgrades to 64GB... for no real reason.

 

I would not ever recommend anyone use a Asrock motherboard, but i know a lot of people will disagree with me. I'm an ASUS fan.

 

Is GPU not needed or just not listed yet?

Second person to disagree with motheboard choice. I will reconsider motherboard. 

GPU will be from existing system - NV 970.

 

Suprised no one has mentioned how the difference from i5 to i7 is not worth it in terms of gaming ?

True - games kinda level out on quad core. But really from a logical quad core to a logical dodeca core is nice.

async .NET code execution times will improve

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Apologies for not responding sooner.. (lazy)

For the air cooling discussion, I had my i5 3570K at 4.5 Ghz for some time - it reached 78 C on Intel BurnMark.

Right now back to 3.8 Ghz (NV kernel crashed at 4.5 Ghz) and at 30C idling with all the fans on low / off.

Reconsidering the CPU cooler, because the one I linked to will be PITA if I ever decide to up the RAM,

Cooler Master Hyper T4 - CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103182

The linked to, by PeterUK, DDR4 2666 RAM is listed as "O.C.".

Both motherboards support DDR4 2133 as max without OC.

I remember reading that RAM speed doesn't do much... so...

CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4-19200) memory kit for DDR4 Systems Model CMK16GX4M4A2400C14R

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233720

I read the GIGABYTE reviews for their LGA 2011 v3 motherboards and they do not make it sound like the motherboard UEFI is the as awesome as Arkham Knight is playable. Not something I want to ever deal with.

What about,

MSI X99S Gaming 7 LGA 2011-v3 Intel X99 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130795

Has two 4 pin connectors for CPU fan and the Cooler master is a 4 pin fan so that's should work.

Now, I am not sure about how well the case and the motherboard would connect.

I am looking at the VN300M1W2N case and I don't see, for example, specification of what connectors the built in fans use.

Actually I don't see any information about the connectors in the specifications ???

Same thing with PSU and Motherboard compatibility, I am assuming that,

1. "1 x Main connector (20+4-pin)" is the same thing as (or compatible with) "1 x 24-pin AT x main power connector"

2. "1 x 8-pin AT x 12V power connector" is the same thing as (or compatible with) "1 x 4+4-pin ATX 12V"

EDIT:

*snip*

That is a cool looking heat sink. Edited by _Alexander
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