That's the thing, there are lots of people who know exactly how to do advanced maintenance on their cars, but the cars are now made to be hooked up into a diagnostic machine, (one of the reason I prefer older cars, no sensors to fail or give false signals due to not being reset)
sorry, just venting about the rip off main dealers....
First time I changed the oil in our '06 Ford Explorer, I was not aware that there was a computerized oil timer. It started flashing "Oil Change Recommended" a few weeks after I changed it and I had to look up how to reset it. Luckily it did not require connecting to the computer with a code reader, you could do it through the menus on the computer on the dash, but things are getting more and more complicated any more. It's one reason that I've clung to my old 1999 Dodge Dakota. It has a computer that operates the trip meters, odometer, fuel injectors, O2 sensors and a few other things, but it is not nearly as embedded in the car as it is in newer vehicles. I will admit though, it is handy to have all those sensors available. On several occasions I've had a turning lamp go out on the Explorer for some reason throughout the course of an evening when I wasn't driving, and when I got in the next morning the computer would tell me to check it, or to check tire pressure (usually caused by cold weather causing the tires to contract) or that a door isn't quite shut completely. It's nice to have the car helping keep an eye on things, but I'm really not a fan of the computer actually being in charge of controlling mechanical parts like the gas pedal, it makes me nervous having had one bad experience already, so I'll cling to my older truck as long as I can. When and if it throws a rod I'll replace it, but I know how to replace valve seals, pistons and piston rings and things of that nature, so I'll keep it running until the frame rusts out from under it or the head/block cracks.
Interesting. So the solenoid's positive terminal is connected directly to the battery's, and the negative side is what is switched through a relay? I doubt it. There should have been no power on the positive terminal. As mentioned, all components are usually grounded via the chassis (so should the solenoid).
The end result is that it was positively charged, so touching it with a metal filter wrench that was also contacting the negatively charged oil filter/engine caused a short. I have no reason to lie about it. If you look at the solenoid in the picture, there is a 3rd wire (white with red stripe) connected about halfway down the side of the solenoid. I'm guessing that operates an internal relay on the solenoid itself, but I'm not sure.