Jump to content
|Topic||Stats||Last action by|
|Generic Salary Question||
|Will a Planetary Alignment Cause a 9.8 Earthquake ?||
|The Great Modern UI Debate Thread||
|Wildstar Going Free to Play||
|Windows 10 Technical Preview||
Posted 04 November 2012 - 13:57
Posted 04 November 2012 - 15:06
Which mode do you suggest I be in?:
High ISO, large aperture, experiment.
Posted 04 November 2012 - 15:45
Posted 04 November 2012 - 16:25
Tar for the advice
A and S are the modes you should always use, M is for when those don't cut it and you need to take control, remember, when shooting in raw, you can digitally increase the exposure level two levels without quality loss on the computer.
so since I said use a large aperture, set it to A mode and crank that aperture up, which is a bit backwards since large aperture is low number
The numbers that change from single digits with ¨ behind it to 1600+ is the shutter speed, ie how fast it takes the picture. in A mode you wno't see this, this one gets changed automatically
The number with a point separation is the Aperture, for night shot, keep isn't as low as possible, on your lens that is probably somewhere int he range of 2.8-4,3 ish, the reason for the range is that it is a "cheap" zoom lens, and on larger zoom you lose light and the aperture gets numerically higher, the actual aperture I believe is the same but it's more about the amount of light coming through.
You could also shoot in night mode, but then it might take to long to take the shots and be blurry.
So, Set your aperture to the largest opening/lowest number, in A mode, and change the ISO to really high, I believe your camera shoudl be able to handle 1600 with acceptable nose levels. at 800-1200 you'll have less noise but may need to sacrifice more blur.
Posted 04 November 2012 - 17:09
Posted 04 November 2012 - 17:25
I won't be taking photos of people.
yeah, 2.8 was a bit optimistic on a kit lens, 3.5 sounds more realistic :)the 1/xx number that change automatically in A mode would be the shutter time/speed.
nah, leave the rest as is, you "MAY" want to change metering mode to center weighted, but this is something you need to experiment with and depends on what you're shooting and how you want it to look. but if you use center weight it will use the center light where you point the camera and will probably shoot faster, not trying to make all the blackness around the target visible.
And experiment with the ISO beforehand and during to make sure it's not to noisy for you. but remember good apps like lightroom, or even Windows Photo Gallery can remove a lot of the noise, but it will smooth out a lot of details. basically faces can get more of a "glamour" shot look.
Posted 04 November 2012 - 17:51
Posted 04 November 2012 - 17:57
You can zoom in on the previews on the camera to check if they are blurry/noisy.
Posted 15 November 2012 - 22:44
Posted 16 November 2012 - 18:55
Link doesnt work, its a private page
Agree, link doesn't work, but I'd like to see them. I love pictures of rides at night.
Posted 16 November 2012 - 19:41