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Urgent Help Needed


Question

Having to type from a smartphone.

Hi all, I'm appealing to anyone that can help me out on a serious issue I have with my pc.

I've tolf my daughter's NOT to play a game named Fresh on my main pc, due to a few issues I had a few months ago which I pit down to this site, however kids will be kids and they have and now my pc is completely knackered.

My MAIN CONCERN is that I have hundreds of family photos that are VERY precious to me and the thought I could lose them annoys me greatly.

I know how to reformat a pc and have done this countless times in the past, but I've never had a problem whereby I can't access my files to backup.

Here is the problem:

Pc boots up to login screen, will either freeze whilst inputting password or will not allow to click the username to login.

I've tried accessing safemode and the screen goes black and nothing happens after about 30 seconds of login in.

I've tried f8 and reinstalling a previous configuration, but that still freezes.

I have a dell xps 420 and have removed all connections apart from.keyboard and mouse, have tried another mouse but still same problem, but don't have another keyboard to try.

I have the black dell disk that states windows vista reinstallation cd but don't want to lose my family pictures.

I've just looked up at the login screen and ALL of the login account names have now vanished! What's going on?

Please can somebody help me this evening?

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Download Windows 8 preview or evaluation from Another computer and put it on a usb stick using windows 7 usb tool, enter the usb stick or dvd, boot from dvd/usb, install... it will simply put all of your files in a windows.old folder while installing windows anew. So you will be able to keep all content! :)

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Hah, glad Neowin does the "new posts since last refresh thing". Saved me some time since everything I was going to say has been said.

So yeah, you can reinstall Windows without issue as long as you don't format prior. If you think there's a drive failure, then I suggest not doing that to minimize additional disk use that could make it worse. If you have another computer, tossing the drive in there is the easiest way to get the files off, or a live CD, but you'll need some kind of other storage to move it all over to.

Depending on what kind of reinstallation media it is, you could attempt repairing Windows as well.

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You don't know what's causing the problem, and you have critical data to recover, so assume that it is a hardware issue until you know otherwise.

First, stop. Don't turn the machine on. Don't try to use it. Just let it sit there until you're ready to recover your critical data. After that's done, you can do whatever you want to try and bring the machine back online.

Buy one of these if you don't already have one; it is pocket change.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232002

Take out the hard drive. Plug it into the adapter and mount the drive on a new machine to pull your data. Once that's done, then you can come back and try talking us through the troubleshooting/recovery of the hardware/OS.

Also. Back your files up in the future. This should never have been an emergency in the first place. All it takes is a free cloud sync account (Skydrive, Dropbox, etc) or a USB thumbdrive.

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Hi, I've got an external hard drive that I use for backups but haven't done one for about 3 months during which time we've taken loads of photos.

I tried to copy the files from my pc over to the external in safemode earlier tonight before realising it crashes, and it crashed, do you think I could have lose anything off the external as well?

The Windows 8 enterprise is downloading but states 8 hrs to go.......

Can those adaptors be purchased in the UK?

If I was to take out the hard drive, I have another 10 year old xp machine but how would I connect the hard drive up whilst running that machine from its xp hard drive and access my vista hard drive from the knackered pc?

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If I was to take out the hard drive, I have another 10 year old xp machine but how would I connect the hard drive up whilst running that machine from its xp hard drive and access my vista hard drive from the knackered pc?

This is actually along the lines of what I was thinking.

If you have another PC, just put in the hard drive from the current computer. It should just show up as another drive. Should default to whatever the next letter is you have available, like E:\\ or something along those lines if your old computer has a optical drive as well.

Copy over your important files to the old computer, put the newer drive back in the other computer, reformat with a fresh install of Windows.

Copy files over from older PC to external drive, hook external drive up to newly formatted computer, copy files back over on the newly installed version of Windows.

Should be relatively easy, albeit it a bit time consuming, unless I am missing something painfully obvious.

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The only problem I have is I recall its a RAID drive and there are 2 x 80gb (think they are 80 but may be more) hard drives therefore I won't be able to swap them over to another pc would I?

If they are actually setup as RAID drives, chances are it is probably setup as RAID 1, which should just mean they are mirroring eachother. Again someone can correct me if I am wrong, which I may be as I have personally never used RAID, but I see no reason why you would just not need 1 of them since the same data should be on both.

The only thing I just thought of is perhaps one will not mount because it is setup as RAID. I really am not sure.

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Thank you all for your replies.

However, altgough I know how to reformat hard drives and install software etc., and basic networking tasks, my pc skills don't extend beyond that!

Can you talk me through the EASIEST solution bearing in mind it is a RAID drive?

I did have my daughters Windows 7 laptop wirelessly networked with the broken pc (when it was working) and tried the other night connecting up to drag the files accross whilst the broken pc was on the log on screen buy it wasn't seeing it, so this is a no go idea either?

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Edit to above post: The evaluation version of windows 8 has now downloaded onto the windows 7 laptop I have, I intend transferring this over to a USB stick, can somebody talk me through what I need to do to make it run? And will this be the eaisiest method to retrieve my data and will DEFINETELY NOT overwrite my files?

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I think that you could do with things being better clarified...

A summary of your options:

1) Connecting the hard drive to another computer

You connect the hard drive to another (working) computer, you load the operating system that is installed on the computer's own hard drive, and this allows you to access the contents of the other hard drive (as though you had connected an external secondary drive), thus enabling you to retrieve a backup copy of your data files.

There are multiple ways of doing this:

1a) An adapter cable or docking station

1b) An external hard drive enclosure (one that you can open up to change the hard drive in)

1c) Opening up the computer case and connecting up data and power cables (assuming there are some of the correct type)

RAID will make this more difficult. Assuming you have RAID type 1, your chances of the above working (as though you didn;t even have RAID) are fairly good, however other forms of RAId will probably rule these methods out.

2) Running another operating system

Operating systems are typically installed onto and run from a hard drive, it is however entirely possible to run an operating system from other forms of storage, such as a CD/DVD or USB pen drive (i.e. "removable media").

Running an operating system from a CD/DVD/USB-pen-drive on your computer gets around the problem of the operating system installed on the computer being broken. The computer's internal hard drive will be available to the operating system that you are running off of a CD/DVD/USB-pen-drive, allowing you to recover your files.

Some options:

2a) You can download copies of Linux specially prepared for this called "Linux Live CD's" (just having taken a look at Ubuntu's website, it seems that their standard install disk now actually has a "try before you buy" feature, which is essentially the same thing), and there are instructions for installing to a USB pen drive instead.

2b)
, a Windows XP based live CD, that "contains software used for repairing, restoring, or diagnosing almost any computer problem".

2c) Building your own copy of Windows 7 or 8 which will run off of CD/DVD/USB-pen-drive. See instructions
for example. However, this requires that you download a large package called the "Windows AIK", to get at a tiny little tool that comes bundled within it (I personally wouldn't trust copies of just the tool itself posted online).

Note, beware of the "Windows 7 USB tool" that I believe someone mentioned earlier, according to this webpage, it seems to be a way of putting the windows setup onto a USB pen drive, from which you can install Windows as an alternative to the standard of installing from CD/DVD, it is not for running a copy of Windows from a USB pen drive.

3) Repairing the existing operating system

This option should replace any broken files belonging to the operating system, allowing it to run once again. It will not however remove viruses or repair problems with third party software/drivers that may be causing the problem(s), so there is no garuantee that it will put your system into a stable state through which you can recover your files. Side note, after a repair install, you may have to reinstall Windows updates, and also some or all of your programs.

First, notes/warnings:

- If your computer has a 'restore to factory settings' option/feature, do NOT use this, you will loose all of your data if you do

- "OEM" Windows reinstallation disks (like the DELL one that you have) are not the same as normal Windows installation disks and may very well delete all of your data!

There are two ways to do a repair of an exisiting installation of Windows:

3a) Do an actual "repair install" (called "startup repair" in vista/7/8).

There are three ways of doing this:

3a1) Via recovery options presented in the Windows installer (of proper setup disks, not OEM "reinstallation disks" afaik)

3a2) Via a "system recovery disk", which you will have had to have already created on the machine you're trying to repair, or on a sufficiently similar machine.

3a3) Via the "advanced boot options" (
)

Once you've got the "system recovery options menu" up, choose the "startup repair" option. (
).

3b) Simply reinstall Windows on top of the existing installation (WITHOUT reformatting or recreating the partition).

This option is available to those using retail versions of Windows, but not those with OEM versions, since OEM manufacturers nowadays only give customers "reinstallation disks", which are not the same as a proper setup disk. I did encounter some webpages mentioning the use of a retail disk to do a repair of an OEM installation, but did not get a clear understanding of whether it actually works or not.

As described, you simply run the Windows setup routine without doing a reformat. The installation will rename the existing "Windows" folder to "Windows.old" and install new operating system files to a new "Windows" folder. The "Windows.old" folder can be deleted once setup is complete. Your data will remain intact, programs may need to be reinstalled to work correctly, and Windows updates will need to be reinstalled.

You could also alternatively install a newer version of Windows on top as an upgrade installation, which would essentially do the same thing. Do not do the "custom installation" option if it tries to make you though, this reformats and installs the new operating system I believe - not what you want!

Using a install disk, it may be so that the disk must have the same service pack as the installation in order for it to allow you to do the repair, I'm not sure. Alternatively if the disk does not have the service pack, the service pack may simply have to be reapplied via Windows update. (In the case of a "system recovery disk", it would have to have been built on an installation with the same service pack as the installation currently has).

Actually I lied, there's three ways, there's also "sfc /scannow" from a command line, but as far as I know (and I don't actually have much if any experience in actually doing repairs like this), the "Startup repair" option already does the same as this.

Recommendations

Firstly, recovering your files:

- Whether option #1 is the best choince for you obviously depends on various factors - do you have the components for any of the sub-options; are you willing to spend money on them if necessary; are you willing to wait for a delivery (if you're not going to pop down to the shops for it); are you okay with opening up your computer in order to connect it if necessary.

- Whether option #2 is the best choice depends on whether or not you already have a live CD, or are capable of making one (2a & 2b only require downloading an ISO and burning it to disk, but 2c is much more involved). It also depends, if going with option #2a, how familiar with Linux you are (not that it requires very much familiarity at all, but still requires some). Also obviously if creating a CD/DVD you need a CD/DVD burner, and a writable CD/DVD to hand.

- Option #3 will be making changes to the existing Windows installation on the computer, and so if you mess it up badly somehow, in the worst case senario you could loose your data. It does not require you to download or purchase anything though. However, as mentioned above, if the problem is caused by a virus or currupt piece of third party software, the repair to Windows may not do anything to regain access to your files.

It's up to you to make a decision.

btw, if you do option #3b, and do an upgrade install with Windows 8 preview, beware that it expires after a short period, and you'll have to completely reformat and reinstall windows when it does. Also be aware of the upgrade path rules from Vista to 8, upgrading 7 to 8 preserves all your data and programs, but XP/Vista to 8 is different, with Vista SP1, data and setting are supposedly preserved (programs, I don't know), otherwise only data is preserved. Be careful.

Secondly, recovering your system once you've actually recovered your data, I think you'll definately want to do a reformat and reinstallation, to ensure any malware that may have been introduced is wiped away. Then, give your daughters "standard" level user accounts on it, and keep the admin account to yourself, that should go some way to preventing this happening again.

Edit to above post: The evaluation version of windows 8 has now downloaded onto the windows 7 laptop I have, I intend transferring this over to a USB stick, can somebody talk me through what I need to do to make it run? And will this be the eaisiest method to retrieve my data and will DEFINETELY NOT overwrite my files?

The copy of Windows 8 that you've got is only applicable to options #2c, and #3b. See also the note just above.

edit: why are big gaps being inserted into my post :/

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Thank you all for your replies.

However, altgough I know how to reformat hard drives and install software etc., and basic networking tasks, my pc skills don't extend beyond that!

Can you talk me through the EASIEST solution bearing in mind it is a RAID drive?

I did have my daughters Windows 7 laptop wirelessly networked with the broken pc (when it was working) and tried the other night connecting up to drag the files accross whilst the broken pc was on the log on screen buy it wasn't seeing it, so this is a no go idea either?

Did you try what I suggested? No one has said you will not be able to see the 1 drive yet if it was setup in RAID, so I would give it a shot.

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BlazingAngel, you are certainly an angel mate, I had just burned the DVD using the windows 7 laptop and Dow loaded the USB dvd burner and burned the DVD (couldn't fit it on USB needed 4gb) and had just popped the DVD into the drive if the knackered pc and switched it off ready to switch on again, boot menu, and select DVD!!

Then checked my phone as your email came through just as I was looking at it!! How bad could that have been if I didn't see your email!!

So, I understand I need to NOT run this bootable DVD I've burned with windows 8 evaluation?

I am prepared go do whatever is necessary to get my family photos back, and although I've installed memory, PCI boards, hard drives and the like, I've never had the RAID drives out in this pc and I personay believe it will be difficult and may not even work.

I'll willingly buy anything I need to do this, however I'm not that technical and don't understand Linux.

One thing I forgot to mention is I have an OEM version of xp media centre edition, and you mentioned about installing another operating system onto my raid hard drives? Is this easy with raid and will it definetely not over write my data and photos?

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BlazingAngel, you are certainly an angel mate, I had just burned the DVD using the windows 7 laptop and Dow loaded the USB dvd burner and burned the DVD (couldn't fit it on USB needed 4gb) and had just popped the DVD into the drive if the knackered pc and switched it off ready to switch on again, boot menu, and select DVD!!

Then checked my phone as your email came through just as I was looking at it!! How bad could that have been if I didn't see your email!!

So, I understand I need to NOT run this bootable DVD I've burned with windows 8 evaluation?

I am prepared go do whatever is necessary to get my family photos back, and although I've installed memory, PCI boards, hard drives and the like, I've never had the RAID drives out in this pc and I personay believe it will be difficult and may not even work.

I'll willingly buy anything I need to do this, however I'm not that technical and don't understand Linux.

One thing I forgot to mention is I have an OEM version of xp media centre edition, and you mentioned about installing another operating system onto my raid hard drives? Is this easy with raid and will it definetely not over write my data and photos?

The Windows 8 preview you downloaded and burned to disk will be a full windows 8 setup disk. Installing Windows 8 over the top of Vista as an upgrade install is one possible option (3b above), however I'd recommend that you try other options first! Certainly DO NOT run the Windows 8 (or XP MCE) setup and allow it to re-format / re-partition the drive, 'cus you'll loose everything.

In regard to your Windows XP MCE disk, as far as i know, you can only install a newer version or same version of a Windows operating system over an existing one, at least if you run the setup from within Windows (which you can't), such a restriction might not be given when running the setup having initiated the installation directly from the disk, but I wouldn't advise it, it'll likely cause more problems.

I think it sounds like option 2b or 1 is best for you, infact just go with 2b, go and get yourself a copy of UBCD4Win, burn it to disk, boot that, and backup your files.

Once you've backed up your files, use the Vista reinstall disk to wipe the computer and install a fresh copy of windows.

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Raid was brought up and it was assumed it was 1, are we sure its not 0?

If 0 then you can not just pull out 1 drive out and connect it. If 1 then sure you can pull one out and access the files.

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This is getting deeper.....

I've kind of got somewhere, i've managed to get into Safemode for long enough (around 8 minutes sometimes, othertimes only 30 seconds) and managed to copy files a few at a time over to my external hard drive, i have therefore copied everything that i needed, there is some music files that i would have liked to have copied, but not such a major issue as can always download those again - it was my family photos that i mainly wanted.

This is the problem.

I can't actually get to reformat the hard drive, as its crashing even before Windows starts.

These are the symptoms from the very beginning when it all started:-

1. Originally i couldn't log on, it got to the account log on screen and froze as i was typing in my password. It then started getting worse, whereby it would then not even allow you to left click the account name, but you could move the arrow around the screen fine.

2. I then rebooted into safemode, and was shocked when i was trying to transfer files over to my external hard drive and the screen went black, the power button started flashing red which it does when there is no input being received, and i heard the pc speed up and something spinning quite fast inside.

3. Safemode was initially crashing after about 30 seconds of login in, but tonight a few times its allowed me in for around 8 minutes at a time.

4. I then copied my files across, put the Dell Vista Reinstallation CD into the drive and went into the boot menu, and before i even got to change the boot sequence, it crashed again, screen went black, power button on monitor started to flash red, and the pc tower sped up like something was spinning quickly inside.

So - its not Windows related? Not a virus of Malware???

Any ideas what it could be? I don't really have the money to put the PC into a shop to be tested, but at the same time i don't want to go out and waste money on replacing things that it 'might be'.....

Its a DELL XPS420, about 4-5 ish years old

Edit: I've even tried the diagnostic tool and it got as far as 3/4 way through the CPU test of 4 CPU's and crashed before finishing......

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Guys, do you think I may have cracked it?

Just took the side of the pc off to check inside and its the fan on the nvidea graphics card that's spinning away, is this normal? Can't say as I've noticed it before, also when the machine starts the fan is running, but very smooth and quietly, but when it crashed, the graphics card fan speeds right up.

Could this explain the screen going black and the power button on the monitor flashing as if no input? Also could explain why the account names dissapeared from the screen last night? All sounds likely doesn't it? But what about not being able to click the left mouse button in the account names?

Here is a photo of the graphics card, but there is also a yellow/amber light lit up on the main board at the back, towards the bottom right of the boars can you see it? Is that normal?

IMAG0692.jpg

Next to that amber yellow light on the board it states 'Aux Power' and next to it says 'INTRUDER'????

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Sounds like you have a rootkit installed and it's linked it's self to one of your driver files for the USB or kb/mouse.

Download this to a USB stick and run it in safemode - http://support.kaspe.../tdsskiller.exe

Do a scan.. see what it says

BTW you should have your photos copied into Dropbox or pay for Carbonite or something if they are this important to you..

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I'm glad that you've rescued your files, that's the most important thing.

Guys, do you think I may have cracked it?

Just took the side of the pc off to check inside and its the fan on the nvidea graphics card that's spinning away, is this normal? Can't say as I've noticed it before, also when the machine starts the fan is running, but very smooth and quietly, but when it crashed, the graphics card fan speeds right up.

Could this explain the screen going black and the power button on the monitor flashing as if no input? Also could explain why the account names dissapeared from the screen last night? All sounds likely doesn't it? But what about not being able to click the left mouse button in the account names?

Here is a photo of the graphics card, but there is also a yellow/amber light lit up on the main board at the back, towards the bottom right of the boars can you see it? Is that normal?

<photo snipped>

Next to that amber yellow light on the board it states 'Aux Power' and next to it says 'INTRUDER'????

You seem to have a lot of dust built up. hut the computer down, and try and clean some of that out, just for the hell of it on the off chance that it could be causing a problem (I very much doubt it would be the cause, but worth doing imo). When you turn it back on, make sure that all of the fans are running - if a fan isn't working, it could cause temperatures to rise on whatever components it is meant to be cooling, which could cause odd behaviour. (Again, very unlikely to be the cause, but worth checking).

Ignore the sudden speed up of fans just before the computer shuts down, just after startup, just after a crash, whatever, normally the motherboard and/or operating system will vary the speed of fans, keeping them going only as fast as necessary to provide sufficient cooling, which reduces wasted energy and keeps the computer quieter, fans may suddenly go up to full speed in certain scenarios like those just outlined because whatever controls their speed isn't at that moment in time, e.g. the last few fractions of a second before the computer fully powers down. I.e. what you're experiencing there is most likely perfectly normal behaviour!

In terms of the yellow 'intruder' light, don't worry, by opening the case you've probably just tripped a sensor, which is a sign to technician at the manufacturing company, should you send it back to them, of the fact that the case has been opened. You should be able to reset it in the BIOS settings if you really want to.

Sounds like you have a rootkit installed and it's linked it's self to one of your driver files for the USB or kb/mouse.

Download this to a USB stick and run it in safemode - http://support.kaspe.../tdsskiller.exe

Do a scan.. see what it says

BTW you should have your photos copied into Dropbox or pay for Carbonite or something if they are this important to you..

I believe that he just said that the computer just crashed when trying to open the boot menu, would that not suggest a h/w issue rather than malware?

Still, worth a shot. @Soni, if you can;t get into safe mode to try and run the above rootkit scanner, try it in UBCD4Win - i.e. get UBCD4Win, burn to disk, boot... oh, wait, you said it just crashed before even getting to the boot menu didn;t you, so that's not going to work, never mind.

I think someone more experienced with trouble shooting pc h/w issues needs to take over from me at this point...

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Soni, all you would have done was download a Ubuntu LiveCD burned it to a disk or use Unetbootin to load it to a USB flash drive. Load it up, access the folder you need and copy them to another flash drive.

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An etched DuRoBo logo sits below the cylinder, and it is the only piece of branding you can find on the device. Overall, the design and materials are very unassuming, but the cylinder with additional control elements certainly elevates the look and makes it more interesting. Other physical elements include two microphones (one on the top edge and one on the bottom edge), a USB Type-C port, a volume rocker, and a single mono speaker. There is no fingerprint reader, so if you want to protect your device, a PIN is your only option. The official TPU case is not the most premium-looking Display The Krono has a 6.1-inch E-Ink Carta 1200 touchscreen display with a resolution of 1,648 x 824 pixels (300 ppi). The display is front-lit, and you can adjust the brightness and temperature from cool to warm. Unfortunately, the Krono lacks automatic brightness and temperature adjustments, and you cannot set a custom schedule for the frontlight. However, you can set it to always enable frontlight so that you can see what is happening on the screen when turning it on in a dark environment. On the bright side (get it?), the front light can get extremely dim so that the screen is barely readable in a pitch-dark room. The front light is also uniform across the screen, with no noticeable temperature gradients. I am very susceptible to uneven front light, and it is very easy for me to notice it, but the Krono is doing a very good job in this area. I also like that the edge shadow is not very prominent and barely visible in the black variant. E-Ink Carta 1200 is not the newest generation (there are Carta 1250 and 1300), but it is still a good display. It supports three modes: Clarity, Speed, and Quality. In Clarity mode, text is very sharp and easy to read, but you trade that for more ghosting, a slower refresh rate, and more artifacts when the display changes images. Speed mode, as the name suggests, boosts refresh rate and reduces ghosting, but fine print and text become more jagged. Finally, Quality mode is only available in Android apps. It has the lowest refresh rate, but in return, you get much better visuals, improved gradients, and more. Like brightness and temperature, you can toggle modes from the control center. It is available when swiping from the top-right corner of the screen (the top-left is for notifications). I also like that the Krono can work as a desk clock when not in use. It has a bunch of screensavers, including horizontal clocks with time, date, and current battery level. The screen refreshes once per minute, and battery drain is extremely low (not even 1% in 24 hours). It is a great use of the technology, and another thing I wish more e-ink devices featured. Smart Dial The Smart Dial is Krono's main party trick. It sits on the left side of the device and serves multiple purposes. You can twist or press it to perform various actions, depending on the current use case scenario. When reading books, twisting the dial flips through pages, and pressing it refreshes the screen. On the home screen, the dial adjusts the brightness, and holding the dial pressed launches voice note recording. Finally, a quick double press launches the DuRoBo AI chatbot. While the dial scroll is not notched, it is very smooth and has haptic feedback that confirms your actions, which feels very nice. As a long-term Apple Watch user, I love the idea behind the dial. It feels very natural and oddly satisfying to use, especially with that subtle haptic feedback. I never liked flipping pages with touch input, and I strongly believe each e-reader should come with some sort of physical controls for turning pages. The Krono has both volume buttons (which also work as page turners) and the dial, so you are free to use whichever you prefer. With that said, the dial is not perfect. For one, it sticks out of the case way too far for my liking, raising concerns about durability and longevity when carrying the Krono around in a pocket (it is a pocket-sized device after all). Also, it has too much wobble, which cheapens the experience and makes it feel a bit flimsy and unsecured. While there are two plastic guards on the Krono's case, they are way too small for any kind of protection. I also think DuRoBo should let users customize dial actions (the only available customization is scroll direction), particularly for long and double presses. Not everyone needs voice notes, and DuRoBo AI does not work without an active internet connection, leaving the long press essentially useless when offline. I do not mind these features, and I genuinely think they are useful, but I would rather have the ability to toggle between screen modes, turn the frontlight on/off, or launch my favorite app. I also agree with people on Reddit asking developers to let users adjust the dial sensitivity. I hope this is something DuRoBo can implement with a software update to make the experience more personalized (it is a Smart Dial, after all) and incentivize users to fiddle with the Dial more often. The Dial is a fantastic idea, so please, guys, improve it a little. As for ergonomics, they are mostly fine, but the dial's position may feel a little awkward and way too high. When I use a phone or a phone-sized gadget, I tend to rest one of its corners on my palm for a more secure grip. With the Krono, such a grip is impossible because you cannot reach the dial even with big hands. You have to lower the reader a bit and hold it like a bottle without any extra support for the bottom edge. Such a grip is not necessarily uncomfortable (the Krono is also light enough for it), but it requires a bit of muscle retraining. Sometimes, I do not bother with the dial and hold the Krono like my phone, flipping through pages with volume buttons, as they are perfectly positioned for my right-hand thumb. Interestingly, when testing the Krono, I would often find myself thinking that a roller embedded in the long plastic cylinder on the back of the device would have been a much more comfortable solution. There is a free idea for you, guys. Software The Krono runs Android 15 with a very minimal launcher on top. The home screen presents you with a list of apps, a scrollable list of widgets, and your user profile. Widgets can display time, calendar, or recent books for quick access. You can also add or remove apps from the home screen to keep the most useful stuff around without tapping "Apps." I like this minimalistic approach; it looks clean, easy to understand, and light. I understand that some may find the list of all apps way too clean, but fortunately, DuRoBo lets you switch to traditional icons. The reader also has a bunch of preinstalled apps: Read: The default app for reading. Browser: A Chromium-based browser. Files: A simple file manager. Music: A simple music player. Spark: A voice recorder with transcription support and AI summarization DuRoBo AI: A built-in AI chatbot. Transfer: An app for file transfer over Wi-Fi. If that is not enough, there is the Google Play Store, where you can download all the extra apps you need, alternative readers, podcast apps, chatbots, and more. DuRoBo is not trying to give you an all-in-one device. The standard software experience is quite minimal, which makes it easy to approach and learn. The standard reader supports EPUB, EPUB3, AZW3, MOBI, PDF, TXT, DOC, and DOCX, which is more than enough to let you read most books without third-party software. As for customizing the reading experience, you can select one of five built-in fonts, adjust size and thickness, adjust margins and spacing (only three variants for each), change text alignment and direction, toggle the reading status bar, and switch to dark mode. There is also text-to-speech, which utilizes Android's default TTS tech. While I like the simplistic approach, I cannot help but feel DuRoBo could have made the built-in reader a bit more customizable. However, I am not going to bog down on this, as you can always install any other reader you prefer using the Play Store or by sideloading an APK. Getting books to the Krono is very simple. Given that the device is an Android smartphone without cellular connectivity, you can transfer files via a USB Type-C cable, download them using the built-in browser, share them over Bluetooth, or use cloud storage. My favorite was the built-in Transfer app. It is simple, reliable, and very well-designed. I was surprised by how well-designed the web portal is. It is fast, pretty, and properly categorized. Well done! Once you have your books loaded, you can highlight or underline text, add annotations, bookmark pages, check the table of contents, and ask AI about the selected text. Unfortunately, the Krono has no built-in vocabulary, but again, that is something a third-party reader could fix. Overall, the built-in reader is light and snappy, with just the minimum amount of features for a regular user to enjoy reading books. The Krono has no built-in reading tracking, so stat nerds will have to look for third-party reading apps. However, you can set a daily reading goal, and the reader will notify you when you reach it (for example, one hour). You can also set a reminder to read at a certain time, and when the time comes, the Krono will light up its back LEDs and unlock itself to nudge you. Other than that, the rear LEDs do nothing, not even showing charging progress, which is an unfortunate misopportunity if you ask me. Quirks aside, Krono's Android runs quite snappily and bug-free. Early reviews of the Krono criticized its Android 13-based software quite a lot, but now, the reader runs Android 15, and its software has fixed plenty of initial complaints. I never experienced any issues with built-in apps. AI attempts The DuRoBo Krono comes with a built-in AI chatbot. There is no information on what model powers this thing, but the system says it was "trained by Google." You can launch the bot from the app list or by double-pressing the dial. It works just like any other chatbot, and you can ask it anything by typing or using voice input. The AI saves your chats, and you can rename, export, or delete them. DuRoBo AI requires an active internet connection, and it does not work offline. Its reach and capabilities are also limited. You can only chat in the app and use it in the reader app as a makeshift vocabulary. However, the implementation is kinda awkward. You can only send a selected portion of text to AI without giving it any requests or instructions. I highlighted the word "dumb," and it apologized to me for not being useful. You also cannot ask follow-up questions or send the generated response to a separate chat. The chatbot is also slow, even with fast Wi-Fi, making the overall experience quite frustrating, which makes me again wish for the ability to remap the double press to something else. Spark, the standard voice recording app, also uses AI for note summarization and transcribing. Neither feature works offline, unfortunately. Spark records notes up to 30 minutes using Krono's dual microphones, and you can rename or export notes. Transcription quality is decent, and the speed is alright, but you can find much better solutions in the Google Play Store. What I like about Spark is that transcribed notes are not locked, and you can always type more to elaborate on your ideas, which is handy. Overall, I like that the Krono is not shoving AI down my throat, but to be honest, there is really not that much to shove. AI features here feel raw and need improvements to be more useful. Battery Life Like most E-Ink readers, the Krono has fantastic battery life. Even with a clock as a screensaver, its standby power consumption is incredibly low. And when in use, you can get weeks of reading on a single charge. Without the front light, my unit never sipped more than one or two percent of battery during a one-hour reading session. It was nice to see plenty of battery-related settings. You can limit charging at 80% to protect battery health long-term, check the number of charging cycles, manufacturing/first-time use date, battery health, and the maximum capacity. Additionally, the Krono lets you select what hardware remains enabled when sleeping. This lets you keep Wi-Fi and Bluetooth on (say, if you want to receive notifications, for some reason) and keep audio playing when locked. Turning these features off effectively eliminates any standby battery drain. I left my Krono sitting for 24 hours with a clock screensaver on, and it did not drop a single percent. The pretty big 3,950 mAh battery justifies the device's thickness and ensures you do not have to charge it for long periods. Speaking of charging, it is capped at only 10W, which is a bit disappointing, as getting such a big battery to 100% takes a notably long time in the era of super-fast charging smartphones. DuRoBo Moodi The Moodi is a standalone, optional accessory for your Krono. It is a wireless remote with two customizable buttons that you can use to flip pages, control media, or scroll webpages. The accessory connects via Bluetooth. Despite having a built-in rechargeable battery, it is extremely light. While the Moodi's shape and form factor is not what I would call particularly ergonomic, it is not uncomfortable to hold and use. The Moodi comes with six removable magnetic buttons with various smiley faces. Buttons sit securely, and they have nice-feeling, albeit a little loud, clicks. It is a cute touch that adds a little more fun and character to the device. There is also an accented power button and a single status LED. The latter displays charging status and connection mode. The Moodi supports three modes: Reading: Buttons work as volume buttons, allowing you to flip pages in the built-in reader or other apps that support page turning with volume buttons. Media: Buttons work as skip forward/backward, which is useful when listening to audiobooks, podcasts, or music. Scroll: The third mode lets you scroll pages in the web browser or any other application The Krono properly detects the Moodi and presents you with an on-screen guide when you connect it for the first time (it also displays the battery level). However, you can only change modes by holding both buttons for a few seconds. It is also worth noting that the Moodi works with other devices. I connected it to my iPhone and it let me adjust volume or control media playback. Sadly, the scroll did not work, so you cannot use it to waste time scrolling TikToks. Overall, the Moodi is a cute little accessory, which I can recommend for those who read a lot. It is very useful for remote page flipping when you do not want to burden your hands by holding the Krono all the time. I only wish DuRoBo included a lanyard for the built-in loop. As for the battery life, after using the Moodi for a few days, I only managed to drop several percent of its 90 mAh battery. Despite the small size, it is rated for weeks of use, which is pretty impressive. At $35.99, I cannot say the Moodi is a must-have accessory, but I see the appeal. I prefer using the Krono with its Smart Dial, as I rarely read for more than 40-60 minutes in one sitting. However, if you have a stand and like reading for long periods, the Moodi is the right thing to have. It is a bit more expensive than regular page flippers on Amazon, but it is on par with similar products from Kobo or BOOX. Plus, it has a little more fun to it with removable buttons and better integration into the Krono. Conclusion At the end of the day, DuRoBo Krono is a nice pocket-sized e-reader. Its software focuses on the main things without trying to be everything at once. The smart dial idea is unique and great, and I wish more manufacturers had something similar in their devices. The display is also good, with an even frontlight and "always-on" support. I did not notice any deal-breaking issues with the Krono. However, you can feel that the idea needs some improvements, such as a slightly stiffer dial in a more ergonomic location, perhaps a little more premium materials, and better software customization. I hope the company won't give up on the idea and improve the dial and ergonomics in the second generation. Buy DuRoBo Krono Black - $279.99 on Amazon Buy DuRoBo Krono White - $279.99 on Amazon Buy DuRoBo Moodi - $35.99 on Amazon As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
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