Recommended Posts

We keep blowing through these types of cords on the laptop and I got to trying to figure out if there was a way to reinforce these types of connectors at the break point which is marked with the arrows in the pic below?

post-160102-0-57071200-1352928229.png

I was thinking maybe heat shrink tubing might work since the last one's insulation literally broke right below the rigid connection (stress point), and cause the tiny wires to break last night. Fortunately, these are $7/each at Batteries+ so, not a big investment (gotta love the modular Laptop adapters!), but since we go through these seemingly every year or so, I want to maximize the length. I did notice (after the fact) that they have a 2 year warranty on these so will probably go that route with this one (if the receipt manages to last - it is printed in faint ink).

My wife is going to be picking up a new Laptop though next month probably for her Graduate School studies (Mine is from 2005 and still works so she uses it, but is starting to choke on today's web standards for the college and only runs XP or Linux (Forget Vista or 7 - I tried with 1gb of Ram on board). So, looking forward to reinforcing a connector like this is a good bonus! :)

Link to comment
https://www.neowin.net/forum/topic/1119540-best-way-to-reinforce-connector/
Share on other sites

I think your idea with the heat shrink tubing would work well. That would reinforce it and give it another layer of protection. Maybe some electrical tape first, and then the heat shrink tubing after.

Heat shrink tubing might work, though it might just hide the problem instead of actually fixing it.

The only other idea I could think of was to MacGyver together a homebrew strain relief using a strip of elastic.

Shrink tubing is cheap and easy, so that's probably the route I'd go. Get some that's thick and sturdy.

That is a tough one. Does the connector mate with a connector that is soldered to a circuit board? Whatever you do, make sure that you aren't just transferring the strain down the connector and into the solder joints. If the strain is transferred to the solder joints the solder can crack and then you can end up with a more expensive repair (or worse, a fire).

Ideally you want the strain to be distributed across the cordage.

We don't usually pull on the wire when unplugging, just the connector at the base. If I remember correctly from cleaning the laptop internals, it has a standard DC in jack which is soldered to the system board. I have gone through a total of 2 chargers before this one for different reasons.

For the what happened to the last 2 chargers I have replaced, I replaced the tips as they snapped off oddly (OEM UNITS), but those are VERY hard to find as they are a size "N". Those however, didn't last very long and looked shoddy. So, I bought the one referenced in the link (same style at least), and have had to replace that cord instead of paying for a full charger which can be spendy.

This is the charger we are using which is why it is so modular.

What I believe happens is the cord gets bent right around that stress point (Arrow on right points to it in the first post picture), but just under, as that stress point is extremely rigid. The last one broke right under it with maybe half a mm of clearance so was unable to do a self repair of soldering.

I have thought about the heat shrink hiding any problems later down the road, so that is why I was asking since yeah, it would be an easy "fix" to cover the connector, but really - I can imagine it still not reinforcing it.

I have read about using a makeshift 'splint' to reinforce the connection, but my theory on this would be fine until you got down to the end of the splint, then you have a new weak point.

Why would I be wanting to put so much effort into a $7/cord? See the first post - Getting a brand new laptop in the very near future and am looking straight ahead at a plausible solution for that one too. :)

It's probably not from you pulling it out of your laptop, but from wrapping the cords up so tightly when you put it away.

If it were the strain relief coming out of a power brick, I would agree with you...but he is having problems at the connector. I wouldn't expect the very end piece of a tightly wound cable to receive much stress.

This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Posts

    • Valve finally confirms Steam Machine prices, starts at $1049 for 512GB option by Pulasthi Ariyasinghe The $1,428 option The Steam Hardware lineup that Valve announced last year is slowly starting to roll out. Following the recent Steam Controller launch, Valve has now confirmed the price of the Steam Machine, its all-in-one console-like solution for PC gaming in the living room. There are currently four variants being presented, with only the storage and the included controller being the biggest differences. All of the Steam Machines have the same internals consisting of a semi-custom AMD Zen 4 CPU with six cores and 12 threads, an RDNA 3 28CU GPU, 16GB of DDR5 memory, and 8GB of GDDR6 VRAM, all inside the familiar box Valve has been showing off for months now. The Steam Machine base model starts at $1,049. This has a 512GB NVMe SSD but does not come with a Steam Controller. Keep in mind that storage can be expanded with the microSD card slot too. Next, the $1,128 model has the exact same storage as the previous one but it does come with the new Steam Controller. If you need the Steam Machine to have more storage for games and apps than that, then the 2TB tiers are also available. The $1,349 Steam Machine has no controller once again, but it does ship with two extra faceplates (red fabric and solid walnut) to replace the standard black one. The final option costs $1,428, and it adds the controller back into the bundle. The Steam Machine ships with the Linux-based SteamOS. The box has a 1 Gigabit Ethernet port, DisplayPort 1.4, and HDMI 2.0, as well as one USB-C and four USB-A ports. Keep in mind that when purchasing standalone, the Steam Controller has a $100 price tag. With the above bundles, that drops to $80. It's a rather expensive machine for the internals it is touting, though the design and small form factor do help it somewhat. However, at the same time, the lack of upgradability hurts it. Valve says the ongoing parts shortages and massive price hikes for memory were the leading causes for this price. "The overall effect is that our original goal for the price of Steam Machine is no longer viable," added the company. "So the prices we're sharing today reflect the state of the world for manufacturing; or, more accurately, it reflects the price of the components as we've secured them over the past 6 months." Valve wants interested gamers to reserve it now to get the chance to pre-order a Steam Machine starting June 25, with shipping starting on June 29. Head here to sign up. The invites to buy it will be sent in a randomized order.
    • What the press release doesn’t mention, however, is how much water the natural gas plant itself will consume, Natural gas plants use about 2,803 gallons of water per megawatt-hour produced, which is significantly less than coal-fired plants that use around 19,185 gallons per megawatt-hour. Overall, natural gas plants are more water-efficient, using 584% less water than traditional power plants on average. AI generated
  • Recent Achievements

    • Dedicated
      tuben earned a badge
      Dedicated
    • Week One Done
      mnsgroup earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • Conversation Starter
      sumytbe earned a badge
      Conversation Starter
    • One Year In
      B4dM1k3 earned a badge
      One Year In
    • One Year In
      DarkWun earned a badge
      One Year In
  • Popular Contributors

    1. 1
      +primortal
      516
    2. 2
      +Edouard
      203
    3. 3
      PsYcHoKiLLa
      97
    4. 4
      Michael Scrip
      82
    5. 5
      neufuse
      67
  • Tell a friend

    Love Neowin? Tell a friend!