long-lasting SSD/HDD for ~$100?


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There's two concepts being talked about, and this leads to the common misconception that HDDs are more reliable than SSDs.

 

One concept is failure rate, I'll call that reliability. The numbers clearly show that SSDs are superior in this respect. The lack of moving parts does wonders for continuing-to-work-properly. Early SSDs had potential issues with unreliable controllers but the technology has long matured to be more stable than spinning platter drives.

 

The other concept - which people who claim that HDDs are more reliable think of - is how long you can safely keep the data on the media, I'll call this longevity for lack of a better term. Here, HDDs do much better than SSDs because of the way that flash cells work. SSDs have a finite and definite lifetime measured in write cycles, and when that fails it fails spectacularly. Plus the cells lose charge over time if not refreshed. In contrast, HDDs - being magnetic - don't really have a pre-predetermined time-to-nonfunction, and the data still exists on the platters even after the drive stops working, so you can if you really wanted to extract the bits directly. As a result, you can estimate pretty accurately when an SSD will stop holding your data with just the average load on the disk, whereas an HDD can hold data indefinitely, *if* it doesn't fail.

 

So what's more reliable? SSDs, no question about it. An average SSD's failure rate is better than the best HDD's failure rate. (still just talking about ~2% here, so the difference is mostly fractions of a percentage point). What is likely to keep your data longer? HDDs probably.

 

But the real question is: why don't you have enough copies so you don't have to care which storage media is slightly better at keeping your data safe?

A hybrid drive is a regular HDD with a little bit of NAND (flash) cache. Basically it runs an algorithm that learns what your most used data is and then stores it on the NAND.  So you'll get a bit more speed for your most used data, but overall, it's nowhere near the performance of a SSD.

 

http://www.pcworld.com/article/2025402/ssds-vs-hard-drives-vs-hybrids-which-storage-tech-is-right-for-you-.html

 

In Windows, isn't that the exact same result as having a standard HDD, and a USB key with ReadyBoost enabled on it?

A hybrid drive is a regular HDD with a little bit of NAND (flash) cache. Basically it runs an algorithm that learns what your most used data is and then stores it on the NAND.  So you'll get a bit more speed for your most used data, but overall, it's nowhere near the performance of a SSD.

 

http://www.pcworld.com/article/2025402/ssds-vs-hard-drives-vs-hybrids-which-storage-tech-is-right-for-you-.html

 

Confusingly, Apple uses the Fusion Drive to describe an SSD + a spinning drive managed as one drive through software. So that is an option on some PCs now, but in general "hybrid" drives are as you described here.

There's two concepts being talked about, and this leads to the common misconception that HDDs are more reliable than SSDs.

 

One concept is failure rate, I'll call that reliability. The numbers clearly show that SSDs are superior in this respect. The lack of moving parts does wonders for continuing-to-work-properly. Early SSDs had potential issues with unreliable controllers but the technology has long matured to be more stable than spinning platter drives.

 

The other concept - which people who claim that HDDs are more reliable think of - is how long you can safely keep the data on the media, I'll call this longevity for lack of a better term. Here, HDDs do much better than SSDs because of the way that flash cells work. SSDs have a finite and definite lifetime measured in write cycles, and when that fails it fails spectacularly. Plus the cells lose charge over time if not refreshed. In contrast, HDDs - being magnetic - don't really have a pre-predetermined time-to-nonfunction, and the data still exists on the platters even after the drive stops working, so you can if you really wanted to extract the bits directly. As a result, you can estimate pretty accurately when an SSD will stop holding your data with just the average load on the disk, whereas an HDD can hold data indefinitely, *if* it doesn't fail.

 

So what's more reliable? SSDs, no question about it. An average SSD's failure rate is better than the best HDD's failure rate. (still just talking about ~2% here, so the difference is mostly fractions of a percentage point). What is likely to keep your data longer? HDDs probably.

 

But the real question is: why don't you have enough copies so you don't have to care which storage media is slightly better at keeping your data safe?

 

Thanks, thats the best answer yet!  

 

I guess I'm more interested in failure rates than data longevity.  My data isn't important, I'm just a desktop gaming PC user.  I just want to know which will last longer before I have to go out and buy a new one.

wait wtf is a hybrid, is that an SSD and an HDD in one?  how do they show up in the PC, as two drives? as two partitions?  i hope to god not just one partition that automatically manages between SSD and HDD...

It just shows up like a regular HDD. The HDD has a few gigs of SLC flash that is automatically used as an intelligent cache.

Modern SSD's should last years, and years unless you have some sort of abnormal ridiculously high write workload on them constantly. The samsung 840's are pretty decent SSD's too, I have two of them. The 256gb 840 (tlc) in my gaming desktop as my os/programs drive (my games are mostly on a dedicated WD black 750gb), and a 128g 840 pro (mlc) in my laptop as the only drive.

While I do not own the Samsung 840, I do own the Samsung 830. I have had it for the better part of a year and a half (I did not get the 840 for a reason that I cannot remember--I think it was not in stock--following a poorly timed Vertex 3 failure last year around the physical release of the Intel 520).

 

It failed catastrophically this past Saturday with a majority of my data being lost. The boot sector became corrupted somehow, and upon installation of a different drive, I found that literally about half of the drive was lost in the murky undeleted state that corrupted drives can get themselves into; many files were seemingly not there at all.  I was able to recover the majority of my data (most was backed up, thankfully meaning I only lost a day or two at best) with some software recovery, but I cannot say how disappointed I am.

 

Now, I have also had an OCZ Vertex 3 have its boot sector corrupted twice (same drive), but that was a relatively known issue after the fact, and there was zero data loss beyond the boot sector corruption.

 

I had almost purchased the Intel 520 back when I bought the Samsung 830, but I went with the Samsung due to assumed reliability and cost. Now, I regret that decision.  The Intel drive is admittedly a better model, but it is noticeably faster and it comes with a five year warranty.  Ordinarily, I like to order my computer hardware online (e.g., Newegg, and more commonly Amazon due to fast free shipping as well as price recently), but MicroCenter actually price matched Newegg, which matched Amazon, and I got it on the day that I needed it.

 

None of the other hardware (or OS) had changed in any of the boot sector failures, and it is leading me to suspect that my power supply may be bad (my PC is hooked into a battery backup that cleans/stabilizes the voltage before passing it along).  Fortunately, I bought a good one during a big sale, but I never got around to installing it.  I think it's now time to do so in order to avoid having my Intel SSD see the same failure.  It's odd though because the Vertex 3 failed pretty quickly (twice in two months), while it took the Samsung 830 just under a year and a half to fail.

 

Anyway, if I were looking to spend $100, then I would probably buy a HDD unless you find an ultra reliable SSD (supposedly the Samsung 840 or Intel).  The best thing about HDD is certainly capacity in that price range. The Hybrid drive is probably the best choice at that price for maximum lifetime bang-for-your-buck.

While I do not own the Samsung 840, I do own the Samsung 830. I have had it for the better part of a year and a half (I did not get the 840 for a reason that I cannot remember following a poorly timed Vertex 3 failure last year around the physical release of the Intel 520).

 

It failed catastrophically this past Saturday with a majority of my data being lost. The boot sector became corrupted somehow, and upon installation of a different drive, I found that literally about half of the drive was lost in the murky undeleted state that corrupted drives can get themselves into; many files were seemingly not there at all.  I was able to recover the majority of my data (most was backed up, thankfully meaning I only lost a day or two at best) with some software recovery, but I cannot say how disappointed I am.

 

Now, I have also had an OCZ Vertex 3 have its boot sector corrupted twice (same drive), but that was a relatively known issue after the fact, and there was zero data loss beyond the boot sector corruption.

 

I had almost purchased the Intel 520 back when I bought the Samsung 830, but I went with the Samsung due to assumed reliability and cost. Now, I regret that decision.  The Intel drive is admittedly a better model, but it is noticeably faster and it comes with a five year warranty.  Ordinarily, I like to order my computer hardware online (e.g., Newegg, and more commonly Amazon due to fast free shipping as well as price recently), but MicroCenter actually price matched Newegg, which matched Amazon, and I got it on the day that I needed it.

 

None of the other hardware (or OS) had changed in any of the boot sector failures, and it is leading me to suspect that my power supply may be bad (my PC is hooked into a battery backup that cleans/stabilizes the voltage before passing it along).  Fortunately, I bought a good one during a big sale, but I never got around to installing it.  I think it's now time to do so in order to avoid having my Intel SSD see the same failure.  It's odd though because the Vertex 3 failed pretty quickly (twice in two months), while it took the Samsung 830 just under a year and a half to fail.

 

Anyway, if I were looking to spend $100, then I would probably buy a HDD unless you find an ultra reliable SSD (supposedly the Samsung 840 or Intel).  The best thing about HDD is certainly capacity in that price range. The Hybrid drive is probably the best choice at that price for maximum lifetime bang-for-your-buck.

I still have a vertex 2 on one of my older machines that still works great, after years of constant use too (it used to be in my gaming desktop that was on pretty much 24/7 that the 840 is in now, I transferred it into my older laptop recently after I got the samsung 840 upgrade for my gaming desktop)

 

BTW the samsung 840 pro in my laptop also has a 5 year warranty :) and the regular 840 in my desktop has a 3 year warranty. Both these warranty's are more than you find in most hdd's these days... (it seems a lot of hdd's have moved towards 2 year warranties from what I see on newegg.)

None of the other hardware (or OS) had changed in any of the boot sector failures, and it is leading me to suspect that my power supply may be bad (my PC is hooked into a battery backup that cleans/stabilizes the voltage before passing it along).

 

For the record, power supplies and AC/DC electricity are my thing.  I think you're describing a "pure sine-wave" UPS instead of a "modified sine wave" one.  Which really doesn't matter for a PC. Unless "cleans/stabilizes the voltage" is just marketing lingo for "uses power capacitors and a voltage regulator", in which case I would hope to god it did. They all do that.  

 

But the point is, so does your PC power supply.  They all have voltage regulators on the output side of the transformer, and they (and the transformer itself) have a lot of tolerance towards modified-sine-wave power inverters.  So unless your PSU's voltage regulators have gone wonky (very possible), your UPS shouldn't have anything to do with it.  If your mobo reports your PSU voltage levels, you can graph them on your PC to check and see how the regulators are doing.  If not, you can measure them with a DMM.  Either way, I kinda doubt they are causing your SSD failures.

For the record, power supplies and AC/DC electricity are my thing.  I think you're describing a "pure sine-wave" UPS instead of a "modified sine wave" one.  Which really doesn't matter for a PC. Unless "cleans/stabilizes the voltage" is just marketing lingo for "uses power capacitors and a voltage regulator", in which case I would hope to god it did. They all do that.  

 

But the point is, so does your PC power supply.  They all have voltage regulators on the output side of the transformer, and they (and the transformer itself) have a lot of tolerance towards modified-sine-wave power inverters.  So unless your PSU's voltage regulators have gone wonky (very possible), your UPS shouldn't have anything to do with it.  If your mobo reports your PSU voltage levels, you can graph them on your PC to check and see how the regulators are doing.  If not, you can measure them with a DMM.  Either way, I kinda doubt they are causing your SSD failures.

If he keeps getting SSD's failing that quickly though something is definitely going on, even if its not the PSU. SSD's typically have very low failure rates, and lasting under a year for any ssd is highly abnormal. And samsung has a pretty solid reputation for reliability (OCZ's reputation is a little shaky though)

If he keeps getting SSD's failing that quickly though something is definitely going on, even if its not the PSU. SSD's typically have very low failure rates, and lasting under a year for any ssd is highly abnormal. And samsung has a pretty solid reputation for reliability (OCZ's reputation is a little shaky though)

 

Yeah, but unless that 5v line feeding his SSD is completely isolated from any other lines and has no other devices connected to it, surely some other pc component would have gone wonky first?

Yeah, but unless that 5v line feeding his SSD is completely isolated from any other lines and has no other devices connected to it, surely some other pc component would have gone wonky first?

I don't profess to know what's causing his SSD issues, just saying that having that many SSD's fail in such a short timespan is highly abnormal :)

I'd like to point out to the Op that the article from ZDnet he posted here is from 2 years ago and consumer grade SSD's have made advances since then.  I would go with a SSD, anything Intel or Samsung can be reliable, especially Intel as they usually have longer warranty periods.

 

We can argue all day which is more reliable but at the end of it all, you can either have a good drive or a bad drive.

I'd like to point out to the Op that the article from ZDnet he posted here is from 2 years ago and consumer grade SSD's have made advances since then.  I would go with a SSD, anything Intel or Samsung can be reliable, especially Intel as they usually have longer warranty periods.

 

We can argue all day which is more reliable but at the end of it all, you can either have a good drive or a bad drive.

 

Intel's probably still among the best but the fact remains that they're not using their own controller right now. Considering that the next generation Intel controller is in the pipelines for enterprise SSDs, I'd just recommend going Samsung at this time with their new-ish MDX controllers. Both companies built up the reliability reputation on their own previous-gen tech, and Samsung is the one that's actually using their own this generation. Intel's validation of SandForce no doubt helps, but I just don't see how it can compare to the old Intel controllers.

But the point is, so does your PC power supply.  They all have voltage regulators on the output side of the transformer, and they (and the transformer itself) have a lot of tolerance towards modified-sine-wave power inverters.  So unless your PSU's voltage regulators have gone wonky (very possible), your UPS shouldn't have anything to do with it.  If your mobo reports your PSU voltage levels, you can graph them on your PC to check and see how the regulators are doing.  If not, you can measure them with a DMM.  Either way, I kinda doubt they are causing your SSD failures.

Power is not my thing, so that's good to know.  I'll have to give the graph a shot, but if this was all just really bad luck, then I will be even more disappointed to have it strike three times.

Power is not my thing, so that's good to know.  I'll have to give the graph a shot, but if this was all just really bad luck, then I will be even more disappointed to have it strike three times.

 

I know about power supplies in general, but I have no idea what kind of tolerance the various PC components would have to variations in voltage.  I don't know of any graphing software, but I personally use OpenHardwareMonitor which displays all my PSU's voltages, as well records their minimum and maximum values.  

 

Here's a sample from my PC, but again, I really don't know about what variations in voltage are typical for a good PC PSU.  But this is a relatively new (6mo) Thermaltake 500w PSU, and I haven't had any problems with it.

+- FRS780M (/mainboard)
|  |
|  +- ITE IT8720F (/lpc/it8720f)
|  |                    :   current    MIN      MAX
|  |  +- CPU VCore      :    1.312    1.312    1.344 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/0)
|  |  +- Voltage #2     :     1.12     1.12     1.12 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/1)
|  |  +- Voltage #3     :     3.04    2.992    3.072 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/2)
|  |  +- Voltage #4     :    2.928     2.88    2.928 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/3)
|  |  +- Voltage #5     :     2.16     2.16     2.16 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/4)
|  |  +- Voltage #6     :    3.376    3.328    3.376 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/5)
|  |  +- Voltage #7     :     2.16     2.16     2.16 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/6)
|  |  +- Voltage #8     :    2.176    2.176    2.176 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/7)
|  |  +- VBat           :    3.264    3.264    3.264 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/8)

There's two concepts being talked about, and this leads to the common misconception that HDDs are more reliable than SSDs.

 

One concept is failure rate, I'll call that reliability. The numbers clearly show that SSDs are superior in this respect. The lack of moving parts does wonders for continuing-to-work-properly. Early SSDs had potential issues with unreliable controllers but the technology has long matured to be more stable than spinning platter drives.

 

The other concept - which people who claim that HDDs are more reliable think of - is how long you can safely keep the data on the media, I'll call this longevity for lack of a better term. Here, HDDs do much better than SSDs because of the way that flash cells work. SSDs have a finite and definite lifetime measured in write cycles, and when that fails it fails spectacularly. Plus the cells lose charge over time if not refreshed. In contrast, HDDs - being magnetic - don't really have a pre-predetermined time-to-nonfunction, and the data still exists on the platters even after the drive stops working, so you can if you really wanted to extract the bits directly. As a result, you can estimate pretty accurately when an SSD will stop holding your data with just the average load on the disk, whereas an HDD can hold data indefinitely, *if* it doesn't fail.

 

So what's more reliable? SSDs, no question about it. An average SSD's failure rate is better than the best HDD's failure rate. (still just talking about ~2% here, so the difference is mostly fractions of a percentage point). What is likely to keep your data longer? HDDs probably.

 

But the real question is: why don't you have enough copies so you don't have to care which storage media is slightly better at keeping your data safe?

What numbers? I'd be interested in a source. As SSDs haven't been in real world usage long enough to give an accurate picture of their long-term reliability.

 

Of course, both SSDs and HDDs fail and do so for a wide variety of reasons, but I don't think an SSD is a solid choice yet if you want reliability and especially not consumer level SSDs. Enterprise SSDs are mind blowingly expensive and the major thing they are supposed to provide is the ability to run 24/7 7 days a week.

 

As I said earlier, if you need the speed increases that SSDs  excel at (lots of random small I/O due to access times) then do it. Otherwise, stick with platters.

 

For my server I recently went with 600GB 10K RPM 2.5" SAS disks for the reliability and speed for my workload over an SSD. Samsung 840Pros would have been price comparable, but they aren't able to withstand what I need them to withstand.

In fairness to the people calling you out: you haven't provided any evidence to support your claims that HDDs are significantly more reliable than SSDs, or even establishing what would count as 'reliable' for the sake of our discussion. Simply asserting 'the data isn't there for SSDs' while relying on 'everyone knows hdds are reliable' seems like an intellectually dishonest debate tactic. The data I was able to find when trying to form a position didn't really support the sort of certainty with which you're making your claims: annualized failure rates of 5-8% past 2 years isn't the sort of number's I'd use for "reliable" -- heck, I'd bet sports cars have better numbers than that, and nobody points at Ferrari or Jaguar as a reliable toy. You also haven't set a baseline for what you consider "long term" or "enough data". It seems like most articles consider 2 years to be a typical operating life of a storage device and "long term" ends at about 4 years +/- 25%.

<snipped>

 

Thanks for the detailed response. The first source you cited, Google's HDD study, is the best I know of and is a great solid resource. I didn't cite much because I'm typing one handed (having wrist surgery on 7/24), but I appreciate your detailed response.

 

But this was the point I was attempting to make. We have studies like the Google study, and others, on HDDs that allow us to empirically evaluate the reliability, but we lack this for SSDs. In theory SSDs should be more reliable due to the lack of a motor, among other things, but we don't yet have the empirical data to say this is true. Drive makers don't publicly disclose failure rates so we have no idea how well SSDs are holding up overall (the same is true for HDDs, but we look to studies like the one from Google to break that veil).

 

For SSDs a lot of weight is borne by the wear leveling algorithm. Due to the finite write lifetime it is very important. But we don't yet have data to show how well these algorithms actually work or how long a SSD can hold its data without being refreshed.

 

The Achilles' heel of SSDs is write endurance. We know the more write intensive your usage the faster the SSD will fail.

 

Again, I am not anti-SSD. I just think it is still a technology that fills a specific need.

yea I can't povide anything better than evn did. I did a quick google search for the data that I found when I first researched SSDs before purchase, can't find it, and it's probably old enough to be outdated anyway, though I found a new report suggesting the same thing. To summarize though most of what I found have been return (for defect) rates or warranty claim rates, which while not the most representative sources, were the ones with the greatest scale that I can find. It seems like what evn found suggests numbers even better than the ones I had in mind.

 

For SSDs a lot of weight is borne by the wear leveling algorithm. Due to the finite write lifetime it is very important. But we don't yet have data to show how well these algorithms actually work or how long a SSD can hold its data without being refreshed.

 

The Achilles' heel of SSDs is write endurance. We know the more write intensive your usage the faster the SSD will fail.

 

I think we're all in agreement on this point. But to use the terminology that I earlier defined, it's not really a reliability issue as much as a longevity one. It doesn't mean that SSDs necessarily defect more than HDDs, but certainly if an HDD works, it will likely keep your data for a much much longer period of time than an SSD can, simply because there's a pre-defined lifetime due to the nature of flash cells.

 

Practically speaking, though, I don't care what the marginally different failure rates are between SSDs and HDDs, when we're talking about <2% failure rates (only buy the best of each) it really makes no difference whether it's stored on flash cells or platters, or whether parts have to move to retrieve it. I'd buy one or the other depending on whether I want speed, or storage size. Whatever medium is used, I still need to maintain multiple backups anyway, so who cares if one fails 0.1%-point more than the other?

yea I can't povide anything better than evn did. I did a quick google search for the data that I found when I first researched SSDs before purchase, can't find it, and it's probably old enough to be outdated anyway, though I found a new report suggesting the same thing. To summarize though most of what I found have been return (for defect) rates or warranty claim rates, which while not the most representative sources, were the ones with the greatest scale that I can find. It seems like what evn found suggests numbers even better than the ones I had in mind.

 

 

I think we're all in agreement on this point. But to use the terminology that I earlier defined, it's not really a reliability issue as much as a longevity one. It doesn't mean that SSDs necessarily defect more than HDDs, but certainly if an HDD works, it will likely keep your data for a much much longer period of time than an SSD can, simply because there's a pre-defined lifetime due to the nature of flash cells.

 

Practically speaking, though, I don't care what the marginally different failure rates are between SSDs and HDDs, when we're talking about <2% failure rates (only buy the best of each) it really makes no difference whether it's stored on flash cells or platters, or whether parts have to move to retrieve it. I'd buy one or the other depending on whether I want speed, or storage size. Whatever medium is used, I still need to maintain multiple backups anyway, so who cares if one fails 0.1%-point more than the other?

I think we're agreeing more than not. If you need speed SSDs are your best choice. If you don't need the speed then SSDs aren't all that amazing.

 

I was just giving more information for the view that was being thrown around early on that users should go SSDs for all use cases.

Lets get some hard data in here. Take a look at this. They tested a samsung 840 SSD, which uses the low end TLC flash, by writing massive amounts of data to it over extended periods of time. The results were very promising when it came to endurance: http://us.hardware.info/reviews/4178/10/hardwareinfo-tests-lifespan-of-samsung-ssd-840-250gb-tlc-ssd-updated-with-final-conclusion-final-update-20-6-2013

 

EDIT: Just noticed that the evn show already linked to this article on page 3 :blush:

 

SSD's failing due to running out of write cycles is highly unlikely, and the idea that SSD's are any worse than a HDD for reliability is FUD.

 

Primexx and logical are correct: If you want speed, an ssd is a good choice (they are great to install the OS on, very noticeably quicker than an OS installed on a regular HDD), and for data storage a HDD is typically the best choice because of the cheaper price and larger capacity. Since an SSD is no less reliable than a HDD, reliability doesn't really even need to come into the equation. What it mainly comes down to is what the drive will be used for (data or OS) and price per GB :)

 

IMO the ideal setup for a desktop is an SSD boot drive and larger HDD(s) for storage and backup (regardless of whether you have HDD or SSD you should always have backups!). For a laptop I prefer to go SSD only, because on a laptop it brings the advantages of being silent, no vibrations, and not having to worry about damage due to dropping and such.

Lets get some hard data in here. Take a look at this. They tested a samsung 840 SSD, which uses the low end TLC flash, by writing massive amounts of data to it over extended periods of time. The results were very promising when it came to endurance: http://us.hardware.info/reviews/4178/10/hardwareinfo-tests-lifespan-of-samsung-ssd-840-250gb-tlc-ssd-updated-with-final-conclusion-final-update-20-6-2013

 

EDIT: Just noticed that the evn show already linked to this article on page 3 :blush:

 

SSD's failing due to running out of write cycles is highly unlikely, and the idea that SSD's are any worse than a HDD for reliability is FUD.

 

Primexx and logical are correct: If you want speed, an ssd is a good choice (they are great to install the OS on, very noticeably quicker than an OS installed on a regular HDD), and for data storage a HDD is typically the best choice because of the cheaper price and larger capacity. Since an SSD is no less reliable than a HDD, reliability doesn't really even need to come into the equation. What it mainly comes down to is what the drive will be used for (data or OS) and price per GB :)

 

IMO the ideal setup for a desktop is an SSD boot drive and larger HDD(s) for storage and backup (regardless of whether you have HDD or SSD you should always have backups!). For a laptop I prefer to go SSD only, because on a laptop it brings the advantages of being silent, no vibrations, and not having to worry about damage due to dropping and such.

 

That article may have already been linked, but I missed it, and I found it very informative, so thanks!  It's basically the answer I was looking for.  The fact that something else is going to kill an SSD before the number of write cycles does.  Good to know :D

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    • AdGuard Family lifetime deal now only $14.97 by Steven Parker Today's highlighted Neowin Deal comes via our Apps + Software section, where you can get a lifetime subscription and save 91% on a lifetime AdGuard Family Plan. AdGuard is a unique program that has all the necessary features for what they claim to be "the best web experience." The software combines the an advanced ad blocker, a privacy protection module, and a parental control tool—all working in one app. This software deals with annoying ads, hides your data from a multitude of trackers, protects you from malware attacks, and even lets you restrict your kids from accessing inappropriate content. Install AdGuard and see the internet as it was supposed to be: clean and safe. Get rid of annoying banners, pop-ups & video ads once and for all Hide your data from the multitude of trackers & activity analyzers that swarm the web Avoid fraudulent and phishing website and malware attacks Protect your kids online by restricting them from accessing inappropriate & adult content Good to know Family Plan Length of access: lifetime This plan is only available to new users Redemption deadline: redeem your code within 30 days of purchase Max number of devices: 9 Access options: desktop & mobile Software version: AdGuard Family Updates included A lifetime subscription of AdGuard Family Plan normally costs $169.99, but this deal can be yours for just $14.97, that's a saving of $157.02. For full terms, specifications, and license info please click the link below. Get this AdGuard Family lifetime deal for just $14.97 (was $169.99) Although priced in U.S. dollars, this deal is available for digital purchase worldwide. As an online publication, Neowin too relies on ads for operating costs and, if you use an ad blocker, we'd appreciate being whitelisted. In addition, we have an ad-free subscription for $28 a year, which is another way to show support! Support queries If you have queries or need support for any of the Neowin Deals, please use the contact form here. Neowin Deals are managed and sold by StackCommerce who represent Neowin on an affiliate basis. Why we post these deals We post these because we earn commission on each sale so as not to rely solely on advertising, which many of our readers block. It all helps toward paying staff reporters, servers and hosting costs. So for those that keep moaning and complaining, be thankful we're still online for you to even do that. Other ways to support Neowin Whitelist Neowin by not blocking our ads Create a free member account to see fewer ads Make a donation to support our day to day running costs Subscribe to Neowin - for $14 a year, or $28 a year for an ad-free experience Disclosure: Neowin benefits from revenue of each sale made through our branded deals site powered by StackCommerce.
    • Passkeys: Think of them like a broken heart necklace. Imagine one of those heart necklaces that breaks into two matching pieces. One person keeps one half, and the other person keeps the other half. With passkeys, the website has one half, and you have the other half. If the website gets hacked and someone steals its half, that stolen piece is useless by itself. It cannot unlock your account without your matching half. This particular heart necklace is one of a kind, there is only one in existence. Your half of the necklace has to be stored somewhere. It might be stored on your phone, tablet, computer, security key, or a password manager that can sync it between all your devices. A security key is a small physical device that you keep with you, kind of like a house key, car key, or flash drive. I would not usually recommend a security key as the first option for the average person. For most people, it is easier to use their phone, computer, or a password manager that can sync passkeys between their devices. A security key is more like a spare key you keep in a safe place, just in case you lose access to your other devices or your password manager. Some security keys plug into your computer. Some plug into your phone or tablet. Some get tapped against your device. The idea is simple: a security key can hold another passkey for the same website. Think of it like creating a second one-of-a-kind heart necklace for the same account. One necklace could be paired with your password manager, while another necklace could be paired with your security key. That means the website has more than one matching half on file. One half matches the passkey in your password manager. Another half matches the passkey stored on your security key. So, if you lose access to your phone, computer, or password manager, you would still be able to log in using the passkey stored on your security key. Think of it like keeping an extra special necklace piece on a tiny keychain, stored somewhere safe. The website still has the matching half for that security key, but your half is safely stored inside the little key. A passkey does not automatically exist on every device you own. It lives wherever you save it. If your half is stored on one device, then that device is the one that has the matching piece. For example, if you create the passkey on your Windows computer and it is only saved to that computer, your iPhone does not automatically have that same half. If you create it on your iPhone and it only stays on that iPhone, your Android phone does not automatically have it either. That is where password managers come in. A password manager can act like a protected jewelry box for your passkeys. Instead of your half of the necklace being locked to only one device, the password manager can securely sync that half to your other approved devices. For example, Apple Passwords and iCloud Keychain can sync passkeys between your Apple devices. Google Password Manager can sync passkeys with your Google account. But password managers such as 1Password and Bitwarden can sync passkeys between everything, your phones, tablets and computers. Now, you might ask: “What happens if I lose access to the device that has my passkey?” That depends on where your passkey was saved and what recovery options the website gives you. If your passkey was synced through a password manager, you may be able to sign in from another device that has access to that same password manager. For example, if your passkey is saved in iCloud Keychain, Google Password Manager, 1Password, or Bitwarden, another approved device may still have access to it. If your passkey was saved only on one phone, computer, or security key, and you lose that device, then you may not have your half of the necklace anymore. In that case, you would usually need to use the website’s backup login or account recovery options. A lot of websites that support passkeys still let you fall back to your regular password. So if you lose access to your passkey, the site may still let you log in with your password, a code sent to your email, a text message, a recovery code, or some other account recovery process. That is convenient, but it is also important to understand: if the website still allows password login, then your password still matters. Passkeys are safer than passwords, but if your account still has a password as a backup, you should still use a strong, unique password and turn on two-factor authentication if the website offers it. This is why it is a good idea to have more than one safe way back into important accounts. For example, you might keep your passkey in a syncing password manager, add a second trusted device, save recovery codes somewhere safe, or set up a backup security key. A passkey is very secure, but just like a real key, you need a backup plan in case you lose access to it. Now, you might ask: “What stops a hacker from copying my half of the necklace?” That’s the important part: your half is protected. It is not something you type in, and it is not something the website gets to keep. Think of your half as being locked inside a tiny safe on your phone, computer, security key, or password manager. That safe only opens when you approve it with your fingerprint, face, PIN, or device password. When you log in, the website does not need to see your half. It only needs proof that your half matches its half. Your actual half is not handed over to the website. This is different from a password. With a password, you type the secret into the website. If you type it into a fake website, the hacker now has it. With a passkey, you are not typing your secret into the website. Your device is proving you have the matching half without giving the half away. That also helps protect you from fake websites. If someone makes a fake login page that looks like the real site, your device can tell it is not the real match. It will not use your passkey there. Now, could someone use your passkey if they stole your device, got into your password manager, or somehow unlocked the safe that holds your half? Yes, that is why your device password, PIN, fingerprint, face unlock, and password manager security still matter. But a hacker cannot just steal your passkey from the website or trick you into typing it into a fake page like they can with a password. That is why passkeys are safer than passwords. The two matching pieces have to come together, like two lovebirds who were once separated and are finally reunited.
    • Newegg offers insane combo deal on Amazon Prime Day 2026 that beats Steam Machine by Sayan Sen Building a PC is undoubtedly difficult nowadays but with this epic combo deal, Newegg is trying to make it as easy for you as it is possible. If you are making a new one or even upgrading an old system to a new Windows 11 device, this combo bundle is truly unmissable as you get AMD's Ryzen 9800X3D, a compatible X870 motherboard, a 240mm AIO liquid cooler and finally a Samsung 990 PRO SSD all for under $1000 (purchase link under the specs table down below). This should beat out the newly launched Steam Machine from Valve in terms of performance and performance per dollar especially if you are willing to set Linux up on it. Essentially with this combo you will get the AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 8-core 3D V cache CPU, Samsung's 990 PRO 2TB NVMe SSD, the MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX Motherboard, and finally the Cooler Master Elite Liquid 240. Thanks to that massive vertically stacked L3 cache, the X3D desktop processors, including the 9800X3D, also come with the benefit of not needing fast memory. Even DDR5-5600 should be plenty for it. The technical specifications of the Ryzen 7 9800X3D are given in the table below: Specification Value Architecture Zen 5 Cores / Threads 8 / 16 Base Clock 4.7 GHz Max Boost Clock Up to 5.2 GHz L1 Cache 640 KB L2 Cache 8 MB L3 Cache 96 MB Total Cache 104 MB CPU Core Process TSMC 4nm FinFET I/O Die Process TSMC 6nm FinFET Socket AM5 Default TDP 120W Max Temperature (Tjmax) 95°C Thermal Solution Not included Memory Type DDR5 Max Capacity 256 GB Memory Speeds 2x1R: DDR5-5600 2x2R: DDR5-5600 4x1R: DDR5-3600 4x2R: DDR5-3600 PCIe Version PCIe 5.0 PCIe Lanes (Total/Usable) 28 / 24 USB 3.2 Gen 2 (10Gbps) 4 USB 2.0 1 Graphics Cores 2 CU RDNA 2 Frequency 2200 MHz DisplayPort over USB-C Yes Overclocking Unlocked Up next we have the tech specs for the MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI Motherboard: Specification Value Chipset AMD X870 CPU Support AMD Ryzen 9000 / 8000 / 7000 Series Desktop Processors Socket AM5 Memory Slots 4 × DDR5 UDIMM Maximum Memory Capacity 256GB Memory Support DDR5 8400–5600 MT/s (OC), DDR5 5600–4800 MT/s (JEDEC) Integrated Graphics Outputs 1 × HDMI 2.1 FRL (up to 8K 60Hz) 2 × USB4 Type-C with DisplayPort 1.4 HBR3 (up to 4K 60Hz) Expansion Slots PCI_E1: PCIe 5.0 x16 (CPU) PCI_E2: PCIe 3.0 x1 (Chipset) PCI_E3: PCIe 4.0 x4 (Chipset) Audio Realtek ALC4080 Codec 7.1-Channel USB High Performance Audio Supports up to 32-bit/384kHz playback on front panel S/PDIF output M.2 Slots 4 × M.2 M2_1: PCIe 5.0 x4 (CPU, 22110/2280) M2_2: PCIe 5.0 x4 (CPU, 2280/2260) M2_3: PCIe 4.0 x2 (Chipset, 2280/2260) M2_4: PCIe 4.0 x4 (Chipset, 2280/2260) SATA Ports 4 × SATA 6Gb/s RAID Support RAID 0, 1, 5, 10 for M.2 NVMe storage devices Rear USB Ports 4 × USB 2.0 3 × USB 5Gbps Type-A 2 × USB 10Gbps Type-A 1 × USB 10Gbps Type-C 2 × USB4 40Gbps Type-C Front USB Headers 4 × USB 2.0 4 × USB 5Gbps Type-A 1 × USB 20Gbps Type-C LAN Realtek 8126-CG 5G LAN Wireless Wi-Fi 7 (M.2 Key-E module pre-installed) Supports 2.4GHz / 5GHz / 6GHz bands Up to 5.8Gbps Supports 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac/ax/be Bluetooth Bluetooth 5.4, MLO, 4KQAM Internal Power Connectors 1 × 24-pin ATX Power 2 × CPU Power Connectors 1 × PCIe 8-pin Power Connector Fan Headers 1 × CPU Fan 1 × Combo Fan (Pump/System) 6 × System Fan RGB Headers 3 × Addressable V2 RGB (JARGB_V2) 1 × RGB LED (JRGB) Other Internal Headers 1 × EZ Conn-header 2 × Front Panel Headers 1 × Chassis Intrusion 1 × Front Audio 1 × TPM 2.0 Header Debug Features 4 × EZ Debug LEDs 1 × EZ Digit Debug LED Rear I/O Ports Clear CMOS Button Flash BIOS Button HDMI 2 × USB 40Gbps Type-C 1 × USB 10Gbps Type-C 4 × USB 10Gbps Type-A 3 × USB 5Gbps Type-A 4 × USB 2.0 5G LAN Port Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Antenna Connectors Audio Connectors Form Factor ATX The Samsung 990 PRO is a PCIe Gen4 NVMe SSD and still one of the fastest drives available today for under $500. Speaking of fast, sequential reads and writes are rated at 7450 MB/s and 6900 MB/s, respectively. The random throughputs for reads and writes are 1400K IOPS and 1550K IOPS, respectively. The 990 PRO is based on Samsung's 7th Gen V-NAND flash, and it too is TLC. It packs 2 gigs of LPDDR4 DRAM cache, which helps the random performance. The endurance rating for this is 1200 TBW (terabytes written), which should be sufficient for most users. The Samsung 990 PRO is compatible with the PlayStation 5, but if you are going to use the 990 PRO on a PC, check out the Samsung Magician app that lets you track your drive's health, update its firmware, customize various settings, and more. The tech specs are given below: Specification Value Interface PCIe Gen 4.0 x4, NVMe 2.0 Form Factor M.2 2280 Controller Samsung In-house Controller NAND Flash 3D TLC DRAM Cache 2GB LPDDR4 Sequential Read (Max) 7,450 MB/s Sequential Write (Max) 6,900 MB/s Random Read (4K) Up to 1,400,000 IOPS Random Write (4K) Up to 1,550,000 IOPS TBW (Endurance) 1,200 TBW MTBF 1,500,000 hours Operating Temperature 0°C to 70°C Storage Temperature -40°C to 85°C Shock Resistance 1,500G / 0.5ms Heatsink No Get the combo deal at this link: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D, Samsung 990 PRO 2TB, MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI motherboard, Cooler Master Elite Liquid 240: $784.99 + $25 off with promo code FTTF77: $759.99 (Sold and Shipped by Newegg US) Good to know This Newegg deal is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. Become a Prime member (for Students or SNAP) via Neowin Get Prime Access - Prime for half price (for qualifying Medicaid, EBT, SNAP) Subscribe to Prime Video, Audible Plus, Music Unlimited or Kindle Unlimited via Neowin As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
    • I heard from a lot of people that driver support for the latest games when RDNA first came out (Radeon 5000 series) was pretty bad, but if you didn't buy the card on day one, or were not trying to play the latest titles, then you were isolated from that issue. Other than that, it's been good and only getting better.
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