Help choosing replacement PSU for HP Pavilion

[Cheryl_27]

* Need advice choosing a compatible PSU for my Pavilion. 

* Some respectable brand, but not over the top expensive (for a 6 yr old PC). 

 

Have a Delta power supply DPS 460DB A, came in a Pavilion Elite D5200t ATX (in Mar 2009).  Note:  It's not a "460DB 1A, or "3A" - just "460DB A."

HP part no. on the PSU:  5188-2863.

 

PSU is making noise - sounds like the fan, but...  Sometimes quiet, then noisy and the noise level changes - like w/ varying fan(s) speeds.

 

From research, I gather most don't recommend trying to replace PSUs fans?  If you could even find the right fan.

 

Not much luck matching newer PSUs that would for sure be compatible w/ all connections & mounting.

A slightly higher output new one isn't an issue - just that all connectors are correct  & it fits the case.

 

? Like at Newegg, - how many of the PSUs shown (460 W or more) would be compatible - using filters of:

+ "ATX"  (or should I check "ATX 12V" ?)

+ "new"

 

That shows several in 500 - 600 W range, but I'm not familiar enough w/ every spec / option listed on different PSUs to know if they'd work.

 

Thanks.

[ShadeOfBlue]

First, it's perfectly possible to fix a noisy fan as long as the bearings themselves aren't damaged and the fan is otherwise okay. I've done it plenty of times. Just disassemble the fan (there's a sticker or plug over the end of the shaft, and a little "C" clip holding the shaft in place) and put a little of this on the shaft:

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI

 

If you want to replace the PSU, it looks like yours probably just uses a regular ATX form factor PSU. You should measure the dimensions in the back to make sure though:

 

http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup/form_ATX.htm

 

The other thing to check is that the metal edges and brackets on the back of the case don't interfere with the socket/switch on the new PSU. With that case, you need to be careful about avoiding power sockets with the little "wings" on the sides. Also, avoid ones with power switches anywhere but directly above or below the socket. Check out something like the Antec BP550, or EA550.

 

As far as the connections go, you'll just have to look and see what you need and then look at what the new PSU has.  It'll probably be fine. But if you need more, adapters can always be purchased.

[Cheryl_27]

ShadeOfBlue, thanks for helpful reply.

 

I've never worked on a PSU's fan - or even taken one apart.  But have just about anything else.  From my many searches, I saw a distinct lack of "how to's" on replacing PSU fans (or lubing them).

Just the opposite - many warned not to mess w/ opening a PSU.  Mostly because of high voltages still retained.

 

I guess it partly depends on how "exposed" the contacts of the capacitors are & how careful one is.  But accidents do happen.

I've never gotten shocked working on TVs, etc.  1st time for everything.  Depends on the worst case scenario of a shock from an unplugged PSU.

 

Never knew there was a removable plug on many small cooling fans.  After you mentioned it, looked at an old one.  Under the mfg label sticker, there was an almost invisible, soft plastic plug.  Had to use a razor blade to catch the edge. 

I see the clip, but that's where I stopped - today.  Guess it depends on the fan mfg, but if there's nothing to absorb & hold the lube, it may be a short term fix.

 

The Antec BP550 was one I'd peeked at. 

1) I assume most included connectors (on PSUs of this size) are fairly standard?

2) On this Pavilion, I don't think the PCI slots use power cables directly from the PSU (don't see any).

3) So, needed PSU connectors are mostly for SATA & some type of an "auxillary" - for one case fan - best I can tell.

 

Oddly, now & for a while, the PSU fan is quiet.  It is turning - fairly fast - I looked.  There's no difference in air temp or humidity since this afternoon. 

And there's no less / more load on the PSU (creating more / less heat) now than earlier - when it was noisy.  I don't know if my blowing out the case & inside the PSU case (still mounted) managed to finally dislodge some trash.

 

But it sure sounded like dry bearings to me.

[ShadeOfBlue]

A standard PSU can have up to 220V inside. It's not like an old TV that has thousands of volts. But, they tend to dissipate the charge quickly once unplugged. The voltage is contained in the 1 or 2 large capacitors on the board. Don't touch metal on the board and you're fine. Discharge the capacitors by shorting them and you're even more fine (although I've never actually had one with enough charged left to so much as spark). So, they should be treated with caution, but they are nowhere near as dangerous as a CRT television.

Getting that little clip off of the fan is the hardest part of the whole thing. It's all about finding the right little pick or screwdriver for the job. And then when you're done you want to make sure it's covered back up with a piece of tape to keep the dirt out (if it's not the type with a plug).

Honestly, even a new fan is a temporary fix. They always seem to be the first thing to fail. As long as it's done right, relubrication should be of similar effectiveness (assuming that was the problem in the first place).

Most power supplies just come with different mixes of the standard connectors, and I don't see anything weird about the one you have. If you need more length or more connectors of a different type, there are cheap adapter and extension cables you can buy.

That PC has a Media Bay in front. It probably has a 4pin power cable plugged into the PSU and a USB data cable plugged into the motherboard. If you don't use the bay, it doesn't even need to be plugged in. That may be the aux connector you found.

Those Antecs and most any PSU of similar or greater wattage will also have 6pin connectors for a video card. You may or may not need it. But that PC model had some higher-end video cards as options. That's why it has a 460W PSU. If you don't actually have a video card that needs a separate power cable, you honestly could just use PSU as low as 350W and be fine... the Antec VP-450 for example.

[Cheryl_27]

ShadeOfBlue - sorry didn't get back sooner.  Being disabled, I have about 2 yrs of "to do" list backlog.

I really didn't see the "voo-doo" that a lot of people spout about opening the PSU.  I guess if you've never worked on * any * electronics, 240 V residential electric systems, home electrical circuit panels, TVs, power inverters in RVs, etc., it could be a "fear of the unknown."  If one has no experience or training w/ not getting shocked by electronics or high voltage residential, maybe they'd best not mess w/ a PSU.

Other than getting knocked a few feet by licking my fingers & touching the capacitors, it was all good.    Kidding. 

 

I didn't find any boogie men inside the PSU.  No lightening bolts shot out. To access the fan & remove it from the PSU case didn't remotely require sticking my fingers or tools inside the PSU case - near capacitors.

After finding that no decent PSUs were available locally (at competive prices), I lubed the fan.  I used a light synthetic grease w/ Teflon (PTFE) - I already had (NLGI grade "1.5" - per mfg).  But I'd like to try the Super Lube synthetic grease you mentioned, for other stuff.  Thanks.

 

The fan now seems totally quiet (but could act up).  As quiet as when brand new.  You're right - those that haven't worked on a lot of "odd" stuff, where they have to improvise which tools to use, might find removing the cooling fan shaft a bit daunting.  I used a "mini screw driver set" to remove the tiny, flexible C-clip, on the end of fan shaft.  Any one else - I'd advise removing that clip in a CLEAN, UNCLUTTERED area.  It's very small, thin & easy to lose.  But I didn't find it *that* difficult to remove / reinstall.  Having done it once, I could now remove the PSU & fan, lube the fan, put it all back together & boot the PC in under 10 min.  And I'm way past my prime.

 

Maybe you / others have suggestion on this:  Ultimately, I'd like to find a replacement fan.  The issue I saw was, the PSU mfg (Delta) used a 92 mm x 25 mm (thick), *2* pin connector fan;  12V, 0.3 A (no other specs listed).  Was an "ADDA" brand, model AD0912US-A70GL.

 

Two pin connector cooling fans seem very uncommon.  Add "92 mm" & they're even more uncommon.  Of the couple 2 pin fans I found, they looked really cheap (way under $10) & weren't "quiet" fans.

** Not sure of reputable sources for more uncommon cooling fans sizes / configurations?

 

To replace the fan, I'd have to cut off the rubbery "sealant" they used on the fan's connector to the PSU circuit board (doesn't require getting near the capacitors).

Maybe ? if other fan specs were similar to the original, taking a 3 pin fan, cutting off it's plug & soldering on a 2 pin plug from an old fan  (or other source) would work?

Just need to make sure that the 2 conductors (out of 3) used for the 2 pin connector were the main hot & ground.

[ShadeOfBlue]

Glad it all went smoothly. Yes, you can use a regular 12V case fan as a replacement. I wouldn't even bother trying to find a 2pin one. They are much harder to locate. Without knowing what the max current is for than fan connector, it's best to make it a 0.3A or less model. Then just choose whichever one has the noise and airflow characteristics you want. The speed sensing wire doesn't need to be connected, so just splice the other two onto the existing connector and you're good.

 

To find less common fans like those, I think the best way is to start with the manufacturers rather than the retailers. Go to places like  or    http://www.sunonamerica.com/  and find an appropriate model. Then do a web search for places to buy that model.

[jackperez]

Cheryl_27, it is important that we know how much amount you can spare for PSU since usually when it comes to PSU, the more expensive, the better. Anyways, it does sound like your PSU fan is the root cause of all this trouble but more importantly, I don

[sc302 Veteran]

I would go to your local computer store and pickup a powersupply.  Any one will fit, get the cheapest one if you are trying to be cost conscience.