Odd noises when steering car and stopping

[neufuse Veteran]

Well, I cant figure out what is up... I even had mechanics look at it and change parts and none of them fixed it yet (different mechanics)

 

I have a 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix. When I come to a stop going down a hill when I get almost completely stopped there is a pop noise and you can feel it, it feels like its coming from the front drivers side wheel. 

 

I took it to different mechanics three times for that issue, each of them said they "fixed" it... well what they did was this

 

* First replaced a control arm linkage, nope still doing it

* Replaced a sawy bar and bushings because it was cracked... figured it had to be that since it cracked... nope still doing it

* Replaced another linkage... still doing it

 

well the popping noise is getting louder, and now with it when I turn to the right, and only to the right I get a whirl whirl whirl noise as the wheel turns... and no it's not the steering pump because that was replaced also and the noise is still there... almost like a light jacket fabric rubbing together type of noise...

 

well ontop of this it's starting to feel like I am having suspension issues also when I go over a bump it feels like something is moving that shouldnt... it might all be tied together (all the issues) i duno

 

I got rear ended over a year ago when I was at a complete stop, they rebuilt my rear suspension completely but didn't do the front because they claimed it wasn't damaged...

 

not sure if something was and it's now just showing or what...

 

Also replaced both front rotors, didn't help..... (was getting very bad vibration when slowing at high speed, rotors were warped)

 

new brake pads... didn't help (old pads wore too much)

 

anyone have any ideas what ot look for? I was thinking either a wheel hub is bad or the struts or strut mount is bad... but of course the mechanics claim it couldn't be that.... (not sure why not, they changed most of the other parts already)

[sc302 Veteran]

Jack up the car and start looking at different things. 

 

inner + outer tie rod ends

 

ball joint

 

cv joint <-very possible cause of popping sound.

[xrobwx71]

Jack up the car and start looking at different things. 

 

inner + outer tie rod ends

 

ball joint

 

cv joint

I was going to say CV joint. (Constant Velocity) I have changed a few of these in my time and they do "pop" when they start going bad. Look at the cv joint itself and you'll see a protective rubber accordion like boot that keeps the grease inside, once these tear or otherwise fail, it let's dirt,dust,water, etc in and eventually cause failure.

 

[The Evil Overlord]

Jack up the car and start looking at different things.

inner + outer tie rod ends

ball joint

cv joint <-very possible cause of popping sound.

I was just going to mention the possibility of a warn out cv joint also, OP, does it sound similar to this?

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2c1nxR7aq1o

[TAZMINATOR]

Jack up the car and start looking at different things. 

 

inner + outer tie rod ends

 

ball joint

 

cv joint

 

This... 

 

If nothing helps, check the motor mount ... make sure nothing is broken...  I had that happen in Taurus I had, years ago...  had the engine banging the hood due the broken mount.

[Brian M. Veteran]

To things come to mind: Top suspension mounts (whirring noise) and possibly the callipers for the pop - I've seen that before.

[Arachno 1D]

Not a broken suspension spring is it?

 

 

Or you have picked up a couple of illegal immigrants

[xendrome]

If you hear it while the wheel turns it's probably pads, rotors, caliper, wheel bearing... something like that.

[neufuse Veteran]

I don't have a jack right now so, have to wait to jack it up... but it really irks me that shops haven't figure it out yet... already put $400 into fixing this issue and the issue is still there!..... ugh

[sc302 Veteran]

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-ton-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapidpump-62309.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-61627.html

 

If not send it back in to get it fixed being that they didn't fix the issue in the first place (request your money back).

[neufuse Veteran]

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-ton-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapidpump-62309.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-61627.html

 

If not send it back in to get it fixed being that they didn't fix the issue in the first place (request your money back).

 

Well the parts that they replaced did need replaced so asking for money back isnt' going to help, they just didn't fix the issue I asked about... the links were cracking and so was the sway bar

 

yeah, I have jacks I just don't have them where I am right now, but thanks for the links

[sc302 Veteran]

Well the parts that they replaced did need replaced so asking for money back isnt' going to help, they just didn't fix the issue I asked about... the links were cracking and so was the sway bar

 

yeah, I have jacks I just don't have them where I am right now, but thanks for the links

If you brought it in for a noise in the front end and they replace something unrelated to fixing the noise, well they didn't fix it (regardless if it needed to be replaced or not)...you are paying them for their expertise in being able to properly diagnose and repair the issue not their guess work.

[neufuse Veteran]

If you brought it in for a noise in the front end and they replace something unrelated to fixing the noise, well they didn't fix it (regardless if it needed to be replaced or not)...you are paying them for their expertise in being able to properly diagnose and repair the issue not their guess work.

 

Well the shops around me are blah at best... guess I'm use to it... when multiple independent shops and one dealer can't figure it out it drives me nuts... you'd think they'd test drive a car after a fix to see if it fixed it... but either they don't or they aren't listening...

[Draconian Guppy]

+1 on cv joints, specially when turning.

[+Biscuits Brown MVC]

Agree with the others, CV joint is my guess

[sc302 Veteran]

Well the shops around me are blah at best... guess I'm use to it... when multiple independent shops and one dealer can't figure it out it drives me nuts... you'd think they'd test drive a car after a fix to see if it fixed it... but either they don't or they aren't listening...

I know the feeling...the dealer we are going to right now simply thinks the light comes on and that the brakes are not an issue..

 

Stupid people...if the brakes or something in the brake system wasn't an issue the stupid light wouldn't come on.  They replaced the abs module, so unless the module is broken again, the issue is still there and it is another sensor that they are over looking.  I swear if it doesn't beep or have a big neon sign pointing to the issue they can't properly diagnose or troubleshoot it.

[Neu B]

Sounds like wheel bearings are shot.

[sagum]

While I agree with most, it does sound a lot like CV joints, having it seem by multiple machanics already they should have spotted that pretty quickly as they looked at/changed the drop links.

 

It might be more of an issue with the top mounts on the suspension strut bearing. Normally, the suspension takes a lot of the weight of the car as inertia forces down on front wheels. As the suspension takes the weight, they move around a bit with the bearing, the same happens as you move your steering wheel. Typically you can feel the car pop and judder at low speeds turning and sometimes as you stop and pulling off.

 

Unfortunately, there isn't an easy way to do a visual check as they tend to be well up into the wheel arch. However, removal of the strut unit is usually very easy for inspection and you'll almost always be able to see damage to bearing being split open or you may even find the spring has snapped/cracked already as well. Should take only about half hour to remove and inspect and replace back on the car for inspection and can be done at home with basic tools. I wouldn't advise replacing the strut springs or bearing unless you have the correct tools because they hold a lot of energy. Also, sometimes it's cheaper to just replace the strut/spring and bearing in one go from a junk yard. Just keep in mind that it's also recommended that you replace both sides at the same time. Never had an issue doing that myself, just get the tracking done after a week when they've settled down.