Strange shutdown then no power to motherboard


Recommended Posts

I was shutting down my PC and all of a sudden everything powered off meaning no status LEDs on motherboard (Maximus Extreme XI) or on GPU (Strix 2080 Ti OC). I tried to start it up again but nothing happened. I unplugged/plugged in the power supply and tried again but nothing. All this happened after I was using my new Corsair RGB mouse and keyboard but everything worked as it should at that time. I thought maybe the mouse/keyboard caused it. I plugged in my old wireless mouse/keyboard and tried again. I turned on the PSU and all status LED's came on. The PC started up but my RGB lighting on the Evolv X was not being recognized in AURA. I thought maybe the RGB controller got fried or something. I left everything as it was getting late and tried again the next day. I started up the PC with the new keyboard/mouse and everything seems to be working. I don't know if this was just a coincidence or what. I never experienced anything like this before so I don't know what the cause could of been. Would it be the PSU or mobo that was preventing it to power on.  This is a brand new build too. Any ideas?

PSU is always the first thing I test.  Even if it's new.  Seasonic is usually pretty good, so it's unlikely, but I have had even new parts be faulty.  It is an odd coincidence that the keyboard/mouse are the only differences, though.

 

I have had more PSUs fail than most other components except hard drives.  Even if you have an old smaller wattage PSU, just to test with, that would be great. 

This system is about a month old now. No issues at all until I connected the new mouse/keyboard that day. I already had iCUE installed for RGB fans and just connected the mouse/keyboard and it was recognized. I would say it was operating for about 3 hours after the new keyboard/mouse was connected, then it shut down.

I'm scratching my head on this one.

New or not, system components can die at any time. Slightly or heavily used. I had a few RAM sticks that were DOA (Dead On Arrival).

 

Get a new PSU and get it checked out. Because a PSU can harm your whole system if it is defective.

2 hours ago, FusionGuy said:

This system is about a month old now. No issues at all until I connected the new mouse/keyboard that day. I already had iCUE installed for RGB fans and just connected the mouse/keyboard and it was recognized. I would say it was operating for about 3 hours after the new keyboard/mouse was connected, then it shut down.

I'm scratching my head on this one.

 

11 minutes ago, Mindovermaster said:

New or not, system components can die at any time. Slightly or heavily used. I had a few RAM sticks that were DOA (Dead On Arrival).

 

Get a new PSU and get it checked out. Because a PSU can harm your whole system if it is defective.

It is a Seasonic PSU, one of the top PSU you can buy in the same league as the SuperFlower PSU used in EVGA.

 

So unlikely, it is far from the first thing to consider.

 

I would start with looking for a BIOS update for the motherboard and a Firmware update on the GPU and any other controllers that have firmware. That's what it smells like to me if we are using noses telepathically connected over the internet...

 

 

 

3 minutes ago, DevTech said:

 

It is a Seasonic PSU, one of the top PSU you can buy in the same league as the SuperFlower PSU used in EVGA.

 

So unlikely, it is far from the first thing to consider.

 

I would start with looking for a BIOS update for the motherboard and a Firmware update on the GPU and any other controllers that have firmware. That's what it smells like to me if we are using noses telepathically connected over the internet...

 

 

 

Great or not, they can all fail at one point or another. Or, rather, get a voltage imbalance, therefore blowing up your computer.

1 minute ago, Mindovermaster said:

Great or not, they can all fail at one point or another. Or, rather, get a voltage imbalance, therefore blowing up your computer.

They could also spontaneously burst into flames...

 

The situation described is much more of a fit to some low level firmware based software detecting something wrong with the motherboard and doing a panic shutdown. Probably false detection due to a software bug which is why I suggested update the crap out of stuff which still has some number of bugs due to its recent roll-out..

 

 

9 hours ago, Riva said:

Same thing happened to me while gaming last week. Powered up the PC and it died again like 2-3 times in a row for no apparent reason. Then it just worked ok ever since.

Did you notice if your motherboard and or GPU status LED's also turned off?

11 hours ago, Riva said:

Same thing happened to me while gaming last week. Powered up the PC and it died again like 2-3 times in a row for no apparent reason. Then it just worked ok ever since.

 

2 hours ago, FusionGuy said:

Did you notice if your motherboard and or GPU status LED's also turned off?

Other things to try:

 

1. If you have a water cooled CPU, make sure you have a fan blowing air onto the power regulators around the CPU socket. What works best is a side mounted fan directing cool outside air directly on that area, but anything at all is vital.

 

2. In BIOS, make sure "Load Line Calibration" is set to ON or Max Level and the number of "power phases" is set to the highest number

 

3. unlikely and almost impossible to see would be a slight damage to one of the socket pins when installing the CPU.

 

4. also unlikely, would be uneven clamp down on the water block or cpu cooler permitting a "hot spot" on the CPU chip 

 

5. excessive power draw on the PCIe bus due to GPU out of balance - would be solved by a GPU firmware update which you have already done by now, right?

 

 

11 minutes ago, DevTech said:

1. If you have a water cooled CPU, make sure you have a fan blowing air onto the power regulators around the CPU socket. What works best is a side mounted fan directing cool outside air directly on that area, but anything at all is vital.

I never ever heard of that... Care to explain that?

10 minutes ago, Mindovermaster said:

I never ever heard of that... Care to explain that?

If you have a 125 watt CPU, you need to cool that down with a heask sink and then either air blowing through the heatsink or water flowing through it.

 

If you have an air cooler, then the air also blows past the power regulator chips for the CPU, providing the required cooling.

 

If your CPU is producing 125 watts of heat, all that enery is passing through the power chips that take in 12 volts from the PSU and convert it to 1 volt at the CPU - thats 125 AMPS! (crank my auto engine baby) so you really need to cool down those chips or you risk a CPU Glitch!

 

With a water cooling block that has become so popular these days with the very convenient integrated cooler kits, there is NO left over air flow to cool those massive regulator chips! So, blow some nice cool air on them from a side mounted fan!

 

 

6 minutes ago, DevTech said:

If you have a 125 watt CPU, you need to cool that down with a heask sink and then either air blowing through the heatsink or water flowing through it.

 

If you have an air cooler, then the air also blows past the power regulator chips for the CPU, providing the required cooling.

 

If your CPU is producing 125 watts of heat, all that enery is passing through the power chips that take in 12 volts from the PSU and convert it to 1 volt at the CPU - thats 125 AMPS! (crank my auto engine baby) so you really need to cool down those chips or you risk a CPU Glitch!

 

With a water cooling block that has become so popular these days with the very convenient integrated cooler kits, there is NO left over air flow to cool those massive regulator chips! So, blow some nice cool air on them from a side mounted fan!

 

 

Well, I always had clear air from the front go to the back, with no or little obstruction. (front bays are removed)

30 minutes ago, DevTech said:

 

Other things to try:

 

1. If you have a water cooled CPU, make sure you have a fan blowing air onto the power regulators around the CPU socket. What works best is a side mounted fan directing cool outside air directly on that area, but anything at all is vital.

 

2. In BIOS, make sure "Load Line Calibration" is set to ON or Max Level and the number of "power phases" is set to the highest number

 

3. unlikely and almost impossible to see would be a slight damage to one of the socket pins when installing the CPU.

 

4. also unlikely, would be uneven clamp down on the water block or cpu cooler permitting a "hot spot" on the CPU chip 

 

5. excessive power draw on the PCIe bus due to GPU out of balance - would be solved by a GPU firmware update which you have already done by now, right?

 

 

GPU Tweak didn't notify me of a firmware update. The mobo was updated today.

1 minute ago, Mindovermaster said:

Well, I always had clear air from the front go to the back, with no or little obstruction. (front bays are removed)

In the old days when water cooling was like a science project, details like this would not be forgotten.

 

But those handy water cool packages are the default these days and rightly so, but there are 2 "newbie" mistakes that can be made:

 

1. forgetting that airflow to the CPU power circuits

 

2. blowing hot air inside the case through the water cool radiators instead of blowing cool air form the outside inwards.

 

As you have pointed out there is often other air flow that mitigates the problem, but high-end CPUs with the most powerful heat generating GPUs will be prime candidates for a bit of extra attention to detail...

 

Also, one should never be confident on airflow from a fan over a distance more than about 6 inches since air has a will of it's own once it is set free to roam where it wants...

 

 

57 minutes ago, DevTech said:

In the old days when water cooling was like a science project, details like this would not be forgotten.

 

But those handy water cool packages are the default these days and rightly so, but there are 2 "newbie" mistakes that can be made:

 

1. forgetting that airflow to the CPU power circuits

 

2. blowing hot air inside the case through the water cool radiators instead of blowing cool air form the outside inwards.

 

As you have pointed out there is often other air flow that mitigates the problem, but high-end CPUs with the most powerful heat generating GPUs will be prime candidates for a bit of extra attention to detail...

 

Also, one should never be confident on airflow from a fan over a distance more than about 6 inches since air has a will of it's own once it is set free to roam where it wants...

 

 

Well, yes, but rather I had water or not, I ALWAYS had cool air coming from the front. Ever since I had my CM HAF cases...

 

So I guess this is why I never had to worry about it. :/

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Posts

    • ZimaBoard 2 1664 Starter Kit review: it's a cool and affordable DIY NAS by Steven Parker IceWhale Technology reached out to me asking if I was interested in testing the ZimaBoard 2, and after convincing them to send me the Starter Kit, it arrived at my doorstep in May. A bit of background: it is a Shanghai-based Chinese company founded in 2020, which specializes in single-board servers and personal cloud solutions. From searching around online, user feedback on the company and ZimaOS is mostly positive, so we're off to a good start. In addition, I should probably point out that although they do not have a large portfolio of NAS devices, with just four of what they do offer, they seem to have covered everything from a relatively low-priced entry point with the ZimaBoard 2, right up to the high end, with the ZimaCube 2 Creator Pack that even includes an NVIDIA RTX PRO 2000. Anyway, as already mentioned, what we have today is the ZimaBoard 2 Starter Kit, and here are the full specifications: ZimaBoard 2 Model 832, 1664 CPU Intel Core N150 (4x E Cores/Threads, Max burst up to 3.6 GHz) TDP: 6W (Base) 10W (Max) Graphics Intel UHD Graphics 24 EUs (1.00 GHz) Memory 8 GB, 16 GB DDR5 4800MT/s non ECC SODIMM (soldered) Disk Capacity 60 TB (30 TB x 2) Supported RAID Types TRAID, TRAID +, RAID0, RAID1, RAID5, RAID 6, RAID 10 Storage 2 x SATA 3.0 6Gb/s Ports with Power Bootloader 32 GB, 64 GB eMMC Network 2x RJ-45 2.5 GbE PCIe 1 x PCIe 3.0 (via LPC) USB Ports 2 x USB-A 3.1 (5 Gbps) Display Mini-DisplayPort 1.4 (4K@60Hz) Hardware Transcoding Engine H.264, H.265, MPEG-4, VC-1 Maximum resolution: 4K (4096 x 2160); Maximum FPS: 60 Virtualization Intel® AES New Instructions Intel® Virtualization Technology (VT-x) Intel® Virtualization Technology for Directed I/O (VT-d) Size (H/W/D) 140mm x 83mm x 31mm Weight 0.4 kg (only ZimaBoard 2 device) Power 12v 5A Power Supply Warranty 1 year (Global) 2 Years (EU) OS ZimaOS v1.6.1 MSRP $339, $399 ($548.60) As you can see above, there are two variants of the ZimaBoard 2. The lesser variant has half the eMMC storage and 8 GB less RAM, although it also costs $60 less than the top variant we are testing today. The above pricing is only for the ZimaBoard 2. I put the MSRP of the Starter Kit next to it in brackets, although as of publishing, it is discounted to $534.50. The ZimaBoard 2 started life on Kickstarter and shipped to backers in August last year. It became available via the official website in late 2025 and Q1 2026. This hobbyist NAS contains the still relatively new N150 Intel CPU released in the first quarter of 2025, with support for DisplayPort 1.4, HDMI 2.1, although in this case, the memory is integrated into the board itself, so it will not be possible to upgrade or expand the amount. It also supports AV1 decoding, as well as H.264, VP8, VP9, H.265 (8 bit), and H.265 (10 bit). The different capabilities in the Alder Lake-N (and Twin Lake) series are listed below. Processor E-cores L3-cache Turbo clock GPU GPU-clock TDP Intel N355 8 6 MB 3.9 GHz 32 EUs 1.35 GHz 9 W Intel Core 3 N350 3.9 GHz 1.35 GHz 7 W Intel Core i3-N305 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz 9 W Intel Core i3-N300 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz Intel N250 4 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz 6 W Intel Processor N200 3.7 GHz 0.75 GHz Intel N150 3.6 GHz 24 EUs 1 GHz Intel N97 1.2 GHz 12 W Intel Processor N100 3.4 GHz 0.75 GHz 6 W The CPU is part of the Twin Lake series that sits near the bottom of the N-series, designed for low- powered systems and entry-level laptops, and as such has a base level TDP of just 6W. As I have noted before, we are seeing another NAS with a great amount of RAM. It's important to mention that the ZimaBoard 2's memory is integrated into the base board (which is why they have two variants of it). As a reminder, up until a couple of years ago, it was commonplace to only get 2 or 4GB max on a flagship Synology or QNAP home NAS. Ever since the likes of TerraMaster and more have entered the market with ample RAM sizes included in their NAS offerings, it has gone a long way in forcing the hands of the traditional makers to up their game a bit. First impressions The Starter Kit came in one outer box with several packages inside it (shown above). I forgot to take pics of it because when it arrived, it wasn't clear what was inside, and I had to confirm with my contact that I received the entire Starter Kit. In the box ZimaBoard 2 ZimaBoard 2 HDD Expansion Bracket + PCIe card frame Zimaboard Mini DisplayPort Male to HDMI Female Cable 4K 60Hz Zimaboard PCIe 3.0 x4 to Dual NVMe M.2 SSD Adapter Card Quick guide [full online guide] Limited warranty notice Screws Design Where to start? You'd be forgiven for mistaking it as an SSD enclosure if not for all the ports on it. It is completely made out of metal, and the top is an entire heatsink. It has a premium feel about it, but it definitely looks like a hobby device. As you will see, the completed build looks like it belongs in a server or meter closet rather than as a showpiece on someone's desk. On what I am calling the rear, there's a Mini DisplayPort (1.4), two 2.5 GbE ports, with Type A 3.1 USB ports, and then the barrel connector port. Around the front, there are two SATA6 ports with a power connector in the middle. Left side Right side One side is completely free of ports. On the other there's a slit that allows for the feed of a CPU fan cable, and a PCIe 3.0 X4 slot. Top Bottom The top is entirely made up of a heatsink except for the extended height for the I/O on the rear. Around the other side, you can find the ZIMA branding and some regulatory information stamped near the bottom. As you may see from the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2, it scratches quite easily from just moving it around on my Ikea island. Teardown Before we get started, let's have a look at this thing on the inside. The steps to get to the board are as follows: Remove the four smaller Torx screws on the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2; Remove the four larger Torx screws on the sides of the device; Carefully unstick the CMOS battery from the PCB; Remove two Phillips screws on the PCB; Lift out the PCB. Yes, as you can tell from the instructions, you need three different tools to remove Torx and Phillips screws (10 in total), and unhelpfully, one of the screws is located under the CMOS battery, which is stuck onto the PCB. Building Now comes the fun part. Because the ZimaSpace website does not provide any guidance on how to put the Starter Kit together. They only have guidance for connecting the CPU fan. However, they did upload a video to their YouTube channel that shows the entire process. To install the fan, first remove the four screws on the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2, then on the inside, there is a CPU FAN connector where you can attach the fan, reattach the ZimaBoard 2 frame, and feed the fan cable through the provided slit. Then remove the nearest screw on the side and attach the fan frame to the side of the device using the same screw. ZimaBard 2 screws Aligning the screws Bottom view Remember those four screws we removed to access the CPU FAN? Longer screws are provided in the box with the HDD Expansion Bracket, which is what you will now need to attach the ZimaBoard 2 to it. Helpfully, the orientation on how to attach it is made obvious when the frame can only be screwed on at the same overall length as the ZimaBoard 2. If you do it the wrong way around (which is what I did initially) one side hangs off the frame, and it becomes difficult to attach the PCIe Adapter Card cable. PCIe card frame Other side PCIe slot connector Next, it's time to attach the PCIe card frame, which is fastened with the help of 3.5-inch SATA HDD (3 screws). These are toolless screws that you can just use your fingers to fasten them with. Then it is time to connect the provided PCIe cable with the slot connector on one side of the ZimaBoard 2, feed it through the bottom of the HDD frame, and fasten it with two standoffs. Both bracket options 2280 standoffs with 2x 4TB MP44Q The PCIe 3.0 X4 card comes with a short bracket option, handy if you decide to place it inside a different NAS or rack server, but here we need the long bracket. Oddly enough, the M.2 standoffs were preinstalled into the 22110 position, but extra standoffs are included in the box, which I installed at the 2280 position for our use. I added a couple of MP44Q M.2 PCIe 4.0 SSDs (2 x 4TB) that can be availed on Amazon for $478.99 (the lowest price for 3 months) that TEAMGROUP supplied us with Then we have the almost completed build, you just need to push the card into the PCIe slot. Unfortunately, IceWhale Technologies did not provide a screw for the PCIe card frame (this is also apparent in their own video). Here it is at several different angles, with the last pic showing the SATA Y-Cable connected to the two WD Red Plus 4TB drives. Setup and Usage Next, you connect your cables to the I/O, and the ZimaBoard 2 powers on automatically, as there is no power button on the device. Power is controlled through the Settings in ZimaOS. BIOS The ZimaBoard 2 includes an Aptio BIOS from American Megatrends [1, 2, 3], and you can setup pretty much everything here including the boot order, which is locked to the UEFI OS, however above that choice you can enable or disable booting to a SATA/USB bootloader so this would still allow you to switch to an alternative bootloader and boot from it, or disable it to instead always start from the first disk with an OS installed on it. Initial Setup Upon connecting to the LAN and booting up, the ZimaBoard 2 can be reached by navigating to the IP address (shown if you have a monitor connected), or you can find it using the ZIMA Client desktop application, which is essentially a Zima device finder. Initializing the ZimaBoard 2 The ZimaOS setup process is pretty straightforward, through a wizard, and in full above, it basically consists of setting up an account and some handy tips, and that's that! Post Setup (ZimaOS update) Upon first boot, you are alerted that there is a ZimaOS update from 1.5.0 to 1.6.1, which I applied; the full process is shown above with the changelog. ZimaBoard 2 Storage Setup Next, it is time to set up the storage. ZimaOS actually throws everything onto the eMMC flash drive; it is also the default location of AppData, which is definitely something to be wary about, as the 45GB available storage could fill up quickly. HDDs I first attempted to create a Storage Pool using the two 4TB WD Red Plus NAS drives, and got an error message: After several attempts and then looking online, I discovered it was a bug with ZimaOS where the fix was simply to reboot ZimaOS and then try again, this time I was able to create a RAID mirror using the two drives. SSDs I did the same for the SSDs, as you will see in the above gallery, when I created the second Storage Pool, it only allowed me to select available drives. ZimaBoard 2 AppData ZimaOS comes with an App Store that includes a repository of almost 400 apps, so you will be able to find most of what you'll need for a NAS (although after a quick search, I wasn't able to find a Surveillance Manager), and now comes the important part: moving the default AppData location off the 45GB eMMC and onto a larger volume: Open Settings Then Apps Then, in the Select a new location field, click on the new Storage volume you want to move it to (in my case, the Apps Storage Pool), which is the SSD RAID mirror. Confirm the Migration warning Be praised! You can also do this for Docker (which by default installs onto the 45GB eMMC flash drive) and the User database. Plex Setup Next, I tested the configuration by installing the Plex Server app from the App Store. The library folders must already exist (which I placed into the Storage Pool). Plex Server setup is straightforward and requires very little configuration. In my case, all I had to do was add the media path I just created, which you can also browse to using the folder icon in the path field. In addition, you can now map the new Media library in Windows Explorer using the Zima Client. Oddly enough, it is not possible to access the ZimaBoard 2 over the Network Neighborhood; you must map drives using the client, which is shown in the last image in the above gallery. I watched one of my Blu-Ray rips, which is Dolby Vision with Dolby Atmos, and the content played fine with no stuttering or buffering, which is what anyone needs in this scenario. ZimaBoard 2 Zima Client mobile app There's also a client for mobile. It is pretty barebones, as shown in the above gallery, for example, the Apps screen launches the WebUI for that app, and the Backup must be done manually. On opening Backup, you can select internal storage folders on your phone to backup to the ZimaBoard 2's storage, and although this is constantly scanned, the backup action itself must be manually triggered. There is an option to allow foreground backup (last image in the above gallery), but this basically means the queued backup gets triggered when you manually open the app. Benchmarking SATA PCIe 3.0 X4 A CrystalDiskMark test on a mapped network drive from within a Windows 11 25H2 PC (image above) connected over a 2.5 GbE was well within acceptable ranges. Writes were generally better on the SSD RAID mirror. SATA PCIe 3.0 X1 I also ran the NAS Performance tester, which tests the link speed performance. As you can see, it pretty much maxes out the 2.5GbE connection. Of course, you can also opt to bond the two 2.5 GbE connections for a bit more umph, but I didn't do that. Thermals Top PCIe card SATA HDDs Next, I measured some hotspots while playing content on Plex. It's fair to say this will perform better than a NAS that is enclosed in a metal or plastic case, as almost everything storage-wise is exposed! Anyway, the ZimaBoard 2 did not break a sweat with Plex streaming or disk benchmarks. ZimaOS Factory Reset ZimaOS does not include a factory reset option. Instead, you have to download the ZimaOS image and flash it to the eMMC manually. The flashing process is shown in the above gallery. The steps to do so are listed below: Download the ZimaOS image here; Open BalenaEtcher (Run as Administrator) and select the image; Select your inserted USB drive (min 8 GB) Flash to it; Connect your USB drive, monitor, keyboard, USB hub (optional), mouse (optional), and network cable (recommended) to the ZimaBoard 2; Connect power and press F11 continuously; Select your USB drive starting with UEFI in the boot device menu; Press Enter on the Install ZimaOS option; Select /dev/mmcblk0 (MMC) flash drive as target; Confirm with (three times) to wipe the target disk; Wait a couple of minutes while ZimaOS installs; Remove the USB drive and confirm with a reboot; Your ZimaBoard 2 has been factory reset. However, you don't have to stick with ZimaOS, in fact the company also offers official CasaOS images, that are based on Debian; or as they say themselves, put anything you want on this "hackable single board server" it's up to you. Conclusion I had a lot of fun putting this together. I've custom-built all my own PCs and servers since the 90s, and this is the first time I have had to put a NAS together. Even if the actual base ZimaBoard 2 was already a completed build, it still feels pretty custom. I just wish that IceWhale Technology included a getting-started guide in the box for the Start Kit, which would have really completed this kit. Instead, I had to search for the official video on the YouTube channel to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong. So who is this for? Definitely the hobbyist who is comfortable building their own PC and servers. It also has a much smaller footprint than its nearest equivalent (in terms of specs), like the Beelink Me Pro, which is another NAS I will be testing soon. Although the Beelink does not come with the PCIe 3.0 X4 expansion, the ZimaBoard 2 Starter Kit suddenly looks to be a great bargain, even if it only offers the two 3.5-inch bays over the four in the other example. It makes a lot of sense to use Intel's N150 chip inside a NAS; it is more than capable of doing what the ZimaBoard 2 is intended for, media streaming and backup. It also looks like the IceWhale Technology staff are quite active in the official forums helping people with issues they come across with ZimaOS and the devices, peer support seems to be good as well, I was quickly able to find why I was not able to create a new Storage Pool in ZimaOS v1.6.1 even though that is quite a serious bug, hopefully it will be fixed in the next update. If you are comfortable with the command line and Docker, you'll be fine. You can do great things with this hardware. This was my first time with ZimaOS. It seems a bit barebones in comparison to the likes of Synology DSM, TOS, and UGOS, but it has a ton of apps to get you started with your home or small business NAS. Where to buy As of publishing, IceWhale Technology is running a discount of up to 5% for the Starter Kit. If you opt to get just the ZimaBoard 2 itself, it does come with a SATA Y-Cable, so you will be able to connect up to two 3.5-inch HDDs to it. ZimaBoard 2 1668 Starter Kit for $534.50 on Amazon US (was $548.60) ZimaBoard 2 832 Starter Kit for $372.88 on Amazon US (was $390.60) Zimaboard 2 1668 (16GB+64GB) for $419.90 on Amazon US Zimaboard 2 832 (8GB+32GB) for $359.90 on Amazon Disclosure: IceWhale Technology provided a free sample without any editorial input or review pre-approval. Good to know The Amazon link is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. Become a Prime member (for Students or SNAP) via Neowin Get Prime Access - Prime for half price (for qualifying Medicaid, EBT, SNAP) Subscribe to Prime Video, Audible Plus, Music Unlimited or Kindle Unlimited via Neowin As an Amazon Associate, when you purchase through links on our site, we earn from qualifying purchases.
    • It's in the Insider's group so yes it's technically beta, though these days it's hard to see much of a difference unless you opt for the most extreme beta builds, which I don't. When I moved here from the Release Preview channel I did so primarily because I wanted to see how well the restored taskbar functionality (restored from Win10, and earlier) is working and whether it was time to finally abandon SAB--and it is--working fine, so far. Not as polished as SAB, but it'll do for me.
    • I've been using MWB Premium for a number of years so that along with Windows updates and updated browser should be fine. Thanks for that.
  • Recent Achievements

    • Week One Done
      flexorcist earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • One Month Later
      Woland13 earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • Week One Done
      Woland13 earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • One Year In
      bernmeister earned a badge
      One Year In
    • Week One Done
      Scoobystu earned a badge
      Week One Done
  • Popular Contributors

    1. 1
      +primortal
      488
    2. 2
      +Edouard
      222
    3. 3
      PsYcHoKiLLa
      147
    4. 4
      Steven P.
      74
    5. 5
      FloatingFatMan
      71
  • Tell a friend

    Love Neowin? Tell a friend!