2000 Mustang Sucks going uphill


Recommended Posts

Whats your RPM when your going up a hill or merging onto a freeway???

My alero needs to get pretty revy when going on the freeway... about 3000-3500 RPM's... if its a really short on ramp maybe even upto 4000. Only a 4 Cyl though.

I'll give a better example... our Grand Prix GT (3.8L V6... around 210 horses... similar torque ratings) needs about 3000 rpms to get on to the freeway... it takes a little push on the pedal to get it going. Heavy Car with 200 horses... its no ball of fire.

I'd give it a little more gas if you aren't doing that already... not flooring or making the engine roar... but enough to notice a pick up in speed. Chances are... thats what the civic is doing when passing you.

Do you guys think Mustangs are good for long run because I've heard from so....many people that Japanese or German cars like Toyota, BMW, Merc, Honda...do last longer than American?

585878211[/snapback]

Please, I see more BMWs, VWs, Hondas, in my buddy?s garage then on the road. American cars are fine, you just need to regular maintenance on your car (oil change, brakes, etc) I had a 1979 Trans am, rolled over twice, never had to replace other then some gaskets, brakes and tires and I replaced it 4 years ago for a 96 Tourus. Cars aren?t made like they used to be, there?s no class, there?s no though put into cars today. Look back at the 50?s, 60?s, and early 70?s, those where real cars. They where Powerful, Chrome and two toned paint was standard on some cars. Now a days its just about new rims, and big speakers and how many tvs you can fit :(to a car. :(

You said you've never pushed the gas pedal all the way down.

I'm wondering if maybe you're just giving it so little gas that it doesn't downshift, which results in it being way out of the sweet-spot for the engine to make moves. It's a Mustang. Floor that sumbitch and see what happens. The car's not going to explode.

I'm thinking you should try that before you take it to a garage or anything else. It sounds like you drive with an eggshell under your foot. Replace that eggshell with some lead for a while and see what happens.

I'm serious too. If you don't push the gas pedal down enough, engine won't downshift, and you'll be in 4th gear at 1,000 RPM and it will feel like an incredibly slow car. So try that out and let us know how it goes for you.

:yes:

unless it's a dodge.

unless you've got money, stick with the japanese cars, they're cheaper.

585899920[/snapback]

Apparently you haven't owned many Dodges. :rolleyes: They last just as long if not longer than any other car out there. :ninja:

As far as maitenance, you don't have to follow everything it says in the book about changing things at a certain time. It's dependant on many factors, including how you drive, where you drive (city, highway), and what quality of parts you put in (el cheapo vs. top of the line). I have a 90 Grand Prix that I drive everyday. It's about to roll 155,000 miles on the odomoter. Since I bought it at 65,000 4 years ago I've changed the oil numerous times, the tranny fluid once, and the brake pads twice. It received a set of tires at 90,000 miles and they still have about half the tread left on them. The only non-routine maitenence It has recieved was a coolant bypass gasket. That's IT. The car runs great...just as good as any of my other Grand Prixs that I own. And I have 5 of them. ;) Too bad rust isn't so easy to take care of :unsure:

As far as the problem at hand, you shouldn't have to floor it to get up a hill (at least an average hill). The computer should downshift automatically when it sees more load being applied to the motor. Even if you have the cruise on...AC going full blast...and your radio blaring, you shouldn't see sluggish performance. Some of the resolutions I've read in this thread might be the cure. It could be fuel related (dirty filter, dirty injectors). It could be a sensor. Your best bet, if you're not that knowledgeable with cars, is to take it to a dealer and have it looked at. Take a mechanic out for a ride with you if you have to, to show him the problem.

Joining an automotive forum (especially one dedicated to mustangs) is also a very good idea. I run a regional Grand Prix site, and we get several new members a day that join to ask questions about problems they're having with their cars. You'll also get more informative answers from a club dedicated to your specific car, because let's face it...not everyone can know everything about every car out there. Most enthusiasts know about the cars they're interested in...and the basic knowledge that applies to all cars (how motors work, how a transmission is controlled, etc.)

Good luck getting the problem fixed. And good luck to you if you ever meet me on the road with my truck... :devil:

:yes:

unless it's a dodge.

unless you've got money, stick with the japanese cars, they're cheaper.

585899920[/snapback]

:p :p :p

My dad has a 75 Dodge Charger back in CA. And it runs sooo smoooth, with the original engine (rebuilt) Not ALL dodges are crap like i say its only common sense to determine on how long your car will last.

Apparently you haven't owned many Dodges.?:rolleyes:: They last just as long if not longer than any other car out there.?:ninja:a:

585900412[/snapback]

1996 Dodge Stratus ES - fuel line leak 100k, tranny 100k, and $2,000 more in repairs over 6 months.

1997 Dodge Intrepid Sport - tranny died at 60k

1999 Dodge Intrepid - front left axel broke at 30k, tranny at 70k, car died at 120k

2002 Dodge Intrepid - currently at 104k, leaking problems, brake problems.

all of those cars were in service on time and had every service needed done, those cars were never abused. don't tell me i don't know what i'm talking about.

we also had a Dodge Ram quad cab for a month until the tranny went out at 30k.

Edit:

i forgot to mention how much of a rip off dodge dealers are.

1996 Dodge Stratus ES - fuel line leak 100k, tranny 100k, and $2,000 more in repairs over 6 months.

1997 Dodge Intrepid Sport - tranny died at 60k

1999 Dodge Intrepid - front left axel broke at 30k, tranny at 70k, car died at 120k

2002 Dodge Intrepid - currently at 104k, leaking problems, brake problems.

all of those cars were in service on time and had every service needed done, those cars were never abused. don't tell me i don't know what i'm talking about.

we also had a Dodge Ram quad cab for a month until the tranny went out at 30k.

Edit:

i forgot to mention how much of a rip off dodge dealers are.

585900541[/snapback]

So who's the stupid one buying all the dodge's? And every car can have problems now and then. A coupld of my buddies used to have camaro's with all kinds of problems, mine had over 150,000 miles no problems at all. I just got lucky.

I've got a 96 dodge stratus ES, and I haven't had too bad of an issue. Currently at 118,000 miles and the only major problem is my horn used to sound off on its own. Really funny for a couple days, especially driving around campus, but after a while it got annoying and I just ripped the horn out.

Other than that, the car runs great and takes a beating as well.

The only thing I will say about dodge, is that the 1996 stratus / intrpid line must have had terrible paint jobs. You can usually tell if it's a 96, because the paint is faded and crap. But still a good car

1996 Dodge Stratus ES - fuel line leak 100k, tranny 100k, and $2,000 more in repairs over 6 months.

1997 Dodge Intrepid Sport - tranny died at 60k

1999 Dodge Intrepid - front left axel broke at 30k, tranny at 70k, car died at 120k

2002 Dodge Intrepid - currently at 104k, leaking problems, brake problems.

all of those cars were in service on time and had every service needed done, those cars were never abused. don't tell me i don't know what i'm talking about.

we also had a Dodge Ram quad cab for a month until the tranny went out at 30k.

Edit:

i forgot to mention how much of a rip off dodge dealers are.

585900541[/snapback]

Stick to the old schools Vice.... stick to the old schools :p

So who's the stupid one buying all the dodge's?  And every car can have problems now and then.  A coupld of my buddies used to have camaro's with all kinds of problems, mine had over 150,000 miles no problems at all.  I just got lucky.

585900579[/snapback]

that would be my uncle and his love for wasting money.

he's finally moved on. he's giving the 02 to someone, donating the 99. and he's buying himself another car, so far he's looking at the mercedes CLS.

i just realized i jacked this thread. sorry.

My mustang went through somthing like this (1999) tho it had ~85k miles. We replaced spark plugs and all that crap. Turned out the fuel injectors where clogged. Needed to replace a few of the nozzles (wich wasnt cheap).

Like somone else said. Try mashing the pedal and if it is fine then its just your driving style.

Also turn on overdrive.

Thanks everyone for responding.

I went back and found out that the mustang never reached 2000 rpm when going up the hill that I was telling you about. I cann't think of anytime that it's gone over 2000 rpm.

I tried pressing down more on the pedal and of course, the engine roared alot more and I started smelling gasoline burn but the rpm never reached 2000. I didn't floor it though (I mean all the way down). Man! gasoline price is rocket high and I truely do not want to floor the pedal. I think it's just my driving style, at least that's what I hope it to be.

I also have another interesting incident that I want to share with you guys. I have a Chevrolet Astro van which had about 80-90000 miles when the incident happened. I normally used oil 5W-30 for it (because the oil cap says 5W-30), then one time I accidentally put in 10W-40 and it turned out great. The van accelerated more, seems a lot more powerful now. It has v6, 4.3 liter. The accel. pedal is now soft, not stiff or stuck as before. Isn't it strange?

My mustang uses 5W-30 right now. Should I try this? :happy:

Thank you all in advance.

look I know you have a 3.8L My suggestion would be to get new platinum spark plugs, K&N Filter or Cold Air Intake if you want more horse power. I have a 93' Thunderbird with the same Exact Engine.. keep the OIL at the Recommended mark, also put in 93 octane or the highest in your state. I understand it might cost more but more bang for the buck Maybe this will help, or maybe not The Choice is yours and yours alone... Thanks for your time

_installshield_freak_ :laugh:

Sorry vice king, but if the axles are breaking, then it's being abused like crazy. NOBODY makes tougher axles on their vehicles than Dodge. Trannies dying at 30,000, that tells me it's a standard and the guy can't drive it worth crap. I have a freind that blew a tiburon tranny on it's TEST DRIVE, brand new, just because he abuses the tranny so much (he knows how to drive a standard and shift fine, but he puts a lot fo strain on it all). My guess is your uncle is th same. It's not the vehicle's fault if you suck at driving, and dodge vehicles will take probably the most abuse of any vehicle when it comes to tranny abuse. If somehow it's an automatic, then he's either driving through ponds (here's a breather valve on the tranny that will suck in water) or he's doing something else harsh to it.

As for the fuel line leak? well, it's common with all vehicles, but my bet is he's driving through some rough terrain by the fact he's blown so many trannies and broken so many axles. Brake problems, and heck, even leaking problems will also be caused by this.

I think it'd be wise for you to not judge Dodge's name by his experiences, he's definitely not the norm. The fact he bought so many Dodge vehicles is proof enough that he knows he's abusing the vehicles and they're putting up with it pretty well. Throw that guy in a honda, hyundai, ect. and the car would be totalled within a week.

look I know you have a 3.8L My suggestion would be to get new platinum spark plugs, K&N Filter or Cold Air Intake if you want more horse power.? I have a 93' Thunderbird with the same Exact Engine..? keep the OIL at the Recommended mark, also put in 93 octane or the highest in your state.? I understand it might cost more but more bang for the buck Maybe this will help, or maybe not The Choice is yours and yours alone...? Thanks for your time

_installshield_freak_:laugh:laugh:

585904702[/snapback]

Um...ok....don't do what this guy recommends. Platinum plugs are a WASTE of money, especially on a DIS equppied car. The spark isn't controlled, and a coil fires 2x as much as it has to. This wears the spark plug out twice as fast. And even though the platinums are supposed to last longer, they can't seem to handle the stress. They burn out at around 30,000 miles, where as a copper core plug will last you 60+

Also, do not run premium gas in a car with a computer that is setup for regular unleaded. It's a WASTE of your money because you will see little to NO gain. The computer is set up from the factory for a certain grade. That's the grade they tested with, and that's the grade the car will run best with.

As far as the oil weight question that was asked (10W-40 vs 5W-30), it all depends on where you live. If you live somewhere where the temps never get below 50, run 10W-30 year round. You will see the best performance with that. Or you could even run straight weight oil. When I bought my truck, it had straight 30 in it, and it didn't seem to run right, so I wouldn't recommend that. If you live somewhere where temps get below 50 for an extended period of time, you'd want to switch to 5w-30 during that time.

Lastly, on the Dodge topic...it's all how you treat the car. You have to take care or problems when they arise. You have to check things regularly for wear and tear. It's like that with ANY car. And you can't beat a car and expect nothing to break. You had your list of bad Dodges...well guess what. I have a list of Dodges that my family owns too. These are all CURRENT cars that we own.

1979 Dodge Ramcharger - 127k - Been a plow vehicle for almost 15 years now. Replaced the front u-joints this year and the exhaust a few years ago (hung the old system on a rock going through the woods). Fuel pump leaked last winter. Didn't have time to diagnose (plowing season) so I stole the pump from my other 318 powered car. The truck is rusting out, but still runs like a champ.

1987 Dodge Diplomat - 145k - Ran when it was parked. No mechanical problems. Stole fuel pump for my Ramcharger.

1988 Dodge 600 - 160k - Going to the scrap yard. Floor is rusting out for the 3rd time and the body isn't far behind. Not a manufacturer problem...just a problem with the amount of road salt they use here in Wisconsin. The car doesn't owe anyone anything.

1992 Plymouth Acclaim - 155k - My mom beats this car, and it has a few problems with head gaskets, but those are attributed to the short trips she makes everday. 8 miles roundtrip to work twice a day. Short trips are hard on engines.

1992 Dodge Grand Caravan LE - 145k - My sister hit a deer with this van. It looks pretty bad from that, but before that it had NO mechanical problems. Just routine maitenence.

1994 Dodge Ram 2500 Laramie SLT - 140k - Just bought this truck from a dealer in Florida. Had a fuel pump issue. That's why the previous owner got rid of it. Other than that it runs great. Made the 1400 mile trip back with no problems. Was the first year they offered the V10, and despite reports that it was a bad year to buy I haven't seen any reason that would support that thus far. It will be my new plow vehicle come wint:). :)

2001 Dodge Intrepid ES - 37k - No problems at all.

Those are just the Dodges my family owns. I also own 6 pontiacs, in case someone wants to say something bad about the:laugh:ugh:

Sorry I had to continue the thread jacking. I still think the best thing for you (SuperCharge) to do would be to find a forum (like www.mustangforums.com for example) dedicated to Mustangs and ask them about the problem. If it is a fairly large forum, I can almost gaurantee someone there will be able to help you. Afterall, Mustang owners would know the most about problems with Musta;)s ;)

Edited by The Burning Rom

Elaborating on the gas "suggestion" (btw that guy knows absolutely nothing about cars, not a single piece of advice he gave you was true :|) octane rating is a measure of how quick a fuel burns. Most passenger cars are between 8.0-9.5 compression. ANything closer to 8:1 can run on 87, but as the compression gets higher you need to run a higher octane (9.5:1 = 89 octane) to prevent the compression alone from causing the gas to combust. Running 93 in a lower compression engine does nothing, but running 87 in a high compression motor can be damaging because the burn is no longer controlled by the spark.

what u wanna do is, cos the mustang does 0 -60 in 7, then u need to get on a "highway", or motorway as i call em, and slowly get the car to go really fast, and get like 7000rpm in every gear, cos the car has never gone fast and needs working in so that the car can do high speeds, as at the minute flooring the car will end up in serious engine wear. just get somewhere u can go fast and go fast, i dont know how many speed traps and what not there is on american roads, but in the UK there is hardly any so 100mph is pretty easy to do, so get ure mustang, and get up those revs.

what u wanna do is, cos the mustang does 0 -60 in 7, then u need to get on a "highway", or motorway as i call em, and slowly get the car to go really fast, and get like 7000rpm in every gear, cos the car has never gone fast and needs working in so that the car can do high speeds, as at the minute flooring the car will end up in serious engine wear. just get somewhere u can go fast and go fast, i dont know how many speed traps and what not there is on american roads, but in the UK there is hardly any so 100mph is pretty easy to do, so get ure mustang, and get up those revs.

585926054[/snapback]

That is the worst advice I've ever read... 7000 RPM's???

Not on the 3.8... if you want to blow it, I guess thats an option.

Trust me... the 3.8 needs A LOT of care and flooring it up to 7000 RPM's is one of the worst things you could do on this engine. Especially in every gear. I don't even think it will do 7000 rpms in 1st gear unless you have a manual.

That is the worst advice I've ever read... 7000 RPM's???

Not on the 3.8... if you want to blow it, I guess thats an option.

Trust me... the 3.8 needs A LOT of care and flooring it up to 7000 RPM's is one of the worst things you could do on this engine. Especially in every gear. I don't even think it will do 7000 rpms in 1st gear unless you have a manual.

585929073[/snapback]

Ah you see the guy is used to European cars that can handle revs, not rock steady American engines that just chug away nicely.

This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.