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Here is my list of essentials:

Carbide UI -- make your own themes (works on PC, enables you to export your custom theme)

Y-Browser (freeware)

LCG Jukebox (excellent - plays ogg too)

ALON MP3 Dictaphone

Smartmovie (watch movies on your phone)

ICallmaster/Advanced Call manager (I prefer ICallmaster)

Autohangup (freeware)

BestProfiles (changes profiles automatically--I love this)

BestCalc

WebCamUSB

Handy Clock

Handy Alarm

Compass (freeware)

MSDict

Colline Dictionary

Rescoviewer

Panoman

HandyExpense

I would say start with these sites and download some trial versions to try for yourself:

http://www.smartphoneware.com/s60-3rd-edition-software.php

http://nokia-n95-software.epocware.com/index.html

http://shop.psiloc.com/en/

And for games try this:

http://www.idreams.pl/main.php

Loving my N73 still but can't wait to upgrade to an N95 - Well, unless more info on the N82 comes out as I would rather have that :)

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