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So, I've been disapointed with my 100mbit home network speed for a while and haven't been able to afford a gigabit router.

It's just come to my attention that gigabit switches exist though, and how cheap they are w00t.gif

So, whats the setup? Cable from the router to the switch and then from the switch to my PCs?

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https://www.neowin.net/forum/topic/956988-using-a-gigabit-switch/
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How many ports are you needing on the switch? You can find them for under $30 for a basic gigabit switch.

I recently ordered this 8 port for $29.99

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16833320047

This 5 port has some really good reviews and is $19.99

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16833156250

EDIT: Odd it showed one price during the search but after you click on it it had a different price.

Only 3 computers, I found a super cheap one on eBuyer that seems to do the job:

http://www.ebuyer.com/product/225791

Not sure if this one is better though:

http://www.ebuyer.com/product/132466

I wish that sort of stuff was so cheap over here in the UK, I'm looking at about 35 quid for the same Asus Switch here.

The only difference seems to be that the second one is Metal as opposed to plastic, personal choice really, both support the same specs and both are 5 Port Gigabit Switches.

Up to you which one you get m8, either would be fine.

As for the cabling Cat 5 will not support it as it 10/100 Cabling only, Cat 5e is just the more updated standard which includes GigaBit, with Cat 6 being the newest stuff. See the below info:

The Original Cat 5 Cable

An old standard in the industry, Cat 5 cable is able to perform up to 100MHz and is still widely used for a variety of applications, although most new installations will use Cat 5e or higher.

Able to support 10/100 Ethernet and fast Ethernet, Cat 5 cable is upwardly compatible with the Cat 5e version. However, do keep in mind that your network connections will only be as fast and reliable as its slowest component, not its fastest, unless, of course, they are all equal in this area.

The Improved Cat 5e Cable

With improved durability over Cat 5, the protective outer covering of Cat 5e cable is thicker and therefore more suitable and reliable for more situations than its earlier counterpart. There are several other differences between this version and its predecessor including its backwards compatibility, as it will work along with either 10BaseT or 100Base T networking hubs and cards. There is also less cross talk or electronic interference with Cat 5e as opposed to Cat 5 cable thanks to improved signal capabilities.

In terms of bandwidth, Cat 5e supports gigabit Ethernet connections of up to 350MHz, more than trebling the 100MHz of a Cat 5 cable.

Remember that Cat 5e cable is not rated for use outdoors, although many people do without incident. If you must use this cable outside, add a conduit such as one made from PVC to keep moisture away. The safe operating temperature for Cat 5e cable is anywhere from 10 degrees Celsius to 60 degrees Celsius.

Also, with this particular category cable, 100 meters is the maximum length you will be able to use the cable without the benefit of either a network bridge, hub, or amplification to strengthen the signal.

As a general rule of thumb, if you are ever unsure as to which type you should purchase either Cat 5 or Cat 5e, opt for the latter choice because of its backwards compatibility and overall performance improvements.

The Newer Cat 6 Cable

Certified and designed specifically for gigabit use, Cat 6 cable reduces cross talk even more than its predecessors by improving upon the original Cat 5 version with wires featuring extra twists.

The use of Cat 6 cable does not guarantee that the network will be a full gigabit network, for this to be achieved each and every one of the components must be gigabit certified. Unless your network meets this criteria, opt for Cat 5e which will provide high quality speeds while saving money in the process.

Jamie

Just to clarify, Cat 5 is technically capable of doing Gigabit speed, but only over short distances and it will be unreliable. This is because it's not spec'd to take it, gigabit ethernet was not around with Cat5 which was the point of the new 5e standard.

Well, the standard cat5 cable is about 12m long I think. Not sure if that meets the requirement of short or not. Also, I guess its not too much just to get an extra cable but every saving helps :)

Thanks for all this info btw, its a great primer about this stuff that I usually don't pay much attention to :D

The categories just specify the minimum supported speed the cable is capable of handling, it might be rated at only 100Mbps, but might be easily capable of doing 1Gbps if the cable is built well.

It won't hurt to use Cat5e/Cat6 stuff though, it's fairly cheap (I got 5e cables years ago for like $10)

Yep, the switch will have a dedicated port for the router/modem, and the rest of the ports are for pc's, consoles, other switches. Think you'll want cat5e cable if you are not using that already.

I might be misunderstanding the way you worded that, but to clarify, you can plug the cable from the router/modem into ANY port on the switch (with most standard switches, at least), then the left over ports go to your PCs or another switch if need be.

Again with the Cat 6 and 5e..??

"Cat 5 will not support it as it 10/100 Cabling only"

Nonsense --- the 1000Base-T clearly states that CAT 5 can be used.. The whole point was to be able to run gig over existing cabling..

This thread has been going on an on about it..

https://www.neowin.net/forum/topic/956354-help-with-gigabit-network-cabling/

Here direct from the 803.11ab standard summary.

UTP CAT5 cable was chosen because it represents the majority of all existing horizontally installed UTP cable. The designation for this physical layer interface is 1000BASE-T. It supports distances up to 100 meters.

And before someone chimes in that is good for only short distances again - I highlighted where it states up to 100 meters ;)

And here

http://ieeexplore.ie...arnumber=798775

Physical Layer Parameters and Specifications for 1000 Mb/s Operation Over 4-Pair of Category 5 Balanced Copper Cabling, Type 1000BASE-T

I just took a 5ft cat 5 cable and plugged into my gig blade and my 10/100 blade in my 6509. Windows is telling me that it is connected at 10Mb/s. Lol....either windows is very wrong, the 3 patch cables that I tried are of bad quality or that the cat 5 cable can't handle squat. Again 3 cables 3ft of different brand, connecting at a whopping 10Mb/s to a cisco backbone switch. Priceless. If I had my flip I would record it. Cat5e of same length connects at 100 and 1000Mb/s respectively according to windows. Must be the switch because Cat 5 can support 1GB up to 100 feet, it can't be the pos cat5 cable.

Exactly my point as I clarified in my post which you chose not to highlight. Cat 5 is TECHNICALLY capable of gigabit speed but is not actually officially spec'd to handle it. If you want to get Gig speeds for certain then go for either Cat5e or Cat 6, as with normal Cat 5 you would need a really good quality cable to get the speeds, and even then they will be unstable and inconsistent.

Exactly my point as I clarified in my post which you chose not to highlight. Cat 5 is TECHNICALLY capable of gigabit speed but is not actually officially spec'd to handle it. If you want to get Gig speeds for certain then go for either Cat5e or Cat 6, as with normal Cat 5 you would need a really good quality cable to get the speeds, and even then they will be unstable and inconsistent.

Re-read BudMan's post, he specifically points out and proves that Cat5 is the minimum specification for gig ethernet speeds, not cat5e or higher....

Not only is cat 5 technically capable of gigabit speeds, it is also the minimum specification for gigabit speeds.

Re-read BudMan's post, he specifically points out and proves that Cat5 is the minimum specification for gig ethernet speeds, not cat5e or higher....

Not only is cat 5 technically capable of gigabit speeds, it is also the minimum specification for gigabit speeds.

read my post under budmans. physical connections, not theory or what someone says. man I wish I had my flip. camera on bb is too crappy, category ranking is too crappy on the cable. stupid crappy phone camera.

read my post under budmans. physical connections, not theory or what someone says. man I wish I had my flip.

Already read your post, Cat5 can handle 100x more than 10Mb/s, the issue is not with the cable unless you have really horrible quality cables.

EDIT: I just checked my own network, running Cat 5 cables that have been installed for probably 8 years or so, I get gigabit speeds both in what Windows reports and actual testing of raw network speeds.

Already read your post, Cat5 can handle 100x more than 10Mb/s, the issue is not with the cable unless you have really horrible quality cables.

So the issue is with the 6509 switch, thats rich.

Just so you have an idea of what kind of switch I am talking about.

http://www.shopricom.com/items/www.shopricom.com/photos/Imagei455aw1WD7_full.jpg

So the issue is with the 6509 switch, thats rich.

Just so you have an idea of what kind of switch I am talking about.

http://www.shopricom.com/items/www.shopricom.com/photos/Imagei455aw1WD7_full.jpg

I never said the switch was the issue, I only said the cable is not the issue assuming they meet the proper specifications. On my own network, I am running cat 5 cables (not cat 5e) and am getting gigabit speeds without an issue, most of the cables are 50 foot cables as well....one of them in fact is 100 foot and it goes through two 50 foot cables connected through a small inline coupler. The coupler itself is only rated at 100Mbit (more specifically it's only rated for cat 5 specifications) but I STILL get gigabit speeds on that system to any other system on my network.

I'm just wondering here, how much does it cost a month to get gigabit internet speeds? Also what hardware do you need and how much does it cost?

It depends on where you live, in the US, I do not think there are any gigabit speed ISPs (there might be, but I am unaware of them). Most of what people use gigabit ethernet for is transferring on their local network, from one computer to another. To do so, you need gigabit network cards on both computers (pretty common on motherboards now, much less common on older systems), and everything between the computers need to be gigabit (if you go modem -> router -> switch -> computers then only the switch needs to be gigabit to transfer between other computers on the switch at gigabit speeds, if you transfer to the router or above, then the router also needs to be gigabit compatible).

I never said the switch was the issue, I only said the cable is not the issue assuming they meet the proper specifications. On my own network, I am running cat 5 cables (not cat 5e) and am getting gigabit speeds without an issue, most of the cables are 50 foot cables as well.

so if it isn't the switch and it isn't the cable so long as they meet the proper specs then what is it? is it the magic jelly bean between the switch and the cable or maybe it is the windows computer or drivers that don't like the cable/the switch it is plugged into.

I have had 10/100 speeds on a cat5, but I have never seen gig speeds. Kind of funny actually that I plug in the crappy cat5 cables and get crap, and the same results out of 3 of them. It is like the computer knows I am attaching crap to it and it doesn't want to get the right speeds, but when I plug in cat5e it gets the right speeds.

It depends on where you live, in the US, I do not think there are any gigabit speed ISPs (there might be, but I am unaware of them). Most of what people use gigabit ethernet for is transferring on their local network, from one computer to another. To do so, you need gigabit network cards on both computers (pretty common on motherboards now, much less common on older systems), and everything between the computers need to be gigabit (if you go modem -> router -> switch -> computers then only the switch needs to be gigabit to transfer between other computers on the switch at gigabit speeds, if you transfer to the router or above, then the router also needs to be gigabit compatible).

Ahh ok. Maybe they'll get gigabit speeds soon, that would be awesome.
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If your passkey was saved only on one phone, computer, or security key, and you lose that device, then you may not have your half of the necklace anymore. In that case, you would usually need to use the website’s backup login or account recovery options. A lot of websites that support passkeys still let you fall back to your regular password. So if you lose access to your passkey, the site may still let you log in with your password, a code sent to your email, a text message, a recovery code, or some other account recovery process. That is convenient, but it is also important to understand: if the website still allows password login, then your password still matters. Passkeys are safer than passwords, but if your account still has a password as a backup, you should still use a strong, unique password and turn on two-factor authentication if the website offers it. This is why it is a good idea to have more than one safe way back into important accounts. For example, you might keep your passkey in a syncing password manager, add a second trusted device, save recovery codes somewhere safe, or set up a backup security key. A passkey is very secure, but just like a real key, you need a backup plan in case you lose access to it. Now, you might ask: “What stops a hacker from copying my half of the necklace?” That’s the important part: your half is protected. It is not something you type in, and it is not something the website gets to keep. Think of your half as being locked inside a tiny safe on your phone, computer, security key, or password manager. That safe only opens when you approve it with your fingerprint, face, PIN, or device password. When you log in, the website does not need to see your half. It only needs proof that your half matches its half. Your actual half is not handed over to the website. This is different from a password. With a password, you type the secret into the website. If you type it into a fake website, the hacker now has it. With a passkey, you are not typing your secret into the website. Your device is proving you have the matching half without giving the half away. That also helps protect you from fake websites. If someone makes a fake login page that looks like the real site, your device can tell it is not the real match. It will not use your passkey there. Now, could someone use your passkey if they stole your device, got into your password manager, or somehow unlocked the safe that holds your half? Yes, that is why your device password, PIN, fingerprint, face unlock, and password manager security still matter. But a hacker cannot just steal your passkey from the website or trick you into typing it into a fake page like they can with a password. That is why passkeys are safer than passwords. The two matching pieces have to come together, like two lovebirds who were once separated and are finally reunited.
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