Recommended Posts

I have a few tips, not sure what you pros would think though:

1. Always shoot in RAW.

2. Compose your shots before taking pictures, never point and shoot.

3. Never leave the camera in Auto mode set it to either Aperture or Shutter Priority depending on the type of shot you want.

and

4. Post processing is your friend.

Yes, though it won't be as effective.

To OP: If you don't want to spend too much on software right now you can use the software that came with your Canon camera, it'll allow you to do a plethora of adjustments and process the RAW files correctly.

Thanks, there is an open Beta of Lightroom 4 kicking about, its free until march too :)

Always take your photos with the intention of not having to use psot processing. Obviously your usaually going to need it but the less you have to do the better. You can end up loosing detail or worse if you over process them.

Take for example the before and after examples on the first page of this thread. Whilst the altered image looks more "professional" maybe to the average viewer, it looks fake and over done. Somewhere inbetween those two pictures would be much better.

And most importantly, shoot in raw, otherwise there's almost no point in even trying to do any prost processing.

Yes, but it's a bit of overkill, I'd stick with just WLPG.

while post processing is part of what makes that image what it is. the way it was taken is also improtant. No matter what Post he did, he wouldn't get that result with the camera set to automatic and just point and shooting it :)

lol okay I've been to that place and spot a dozen times and it never looks that good, a big tip of the hat to you for that shot. Its interesting seeing a shot of somewhere you've been like that, there really is some magic in post processing (not to take away from the work that went into taking that pic of course)

There is no post processing on this photo. That's how it came off the camera in M.

I haven't got the Exif here at work, but I was doing a lot of shooting at:

Aperture 10

ISO 100

30 Second exposure

Nikon D5100

All in manual.

One thing I'm noticing is a love for RAW. Don't get me wrong, I love RAW and shoot both RAW and JPEG Fine for all of my shots. I highly recommend this option, purely because for people new to photography, they want to show off what they've managed to do. If you have both a RAW and JPEG of that image, you can hook your camera up to any computer and pull the JPEG, where the RAW will need special software.

Just a thought for any newbies reading.

And to elaborate on a couple of the points other's have made, because I know I had no idea what things were.

ISO - Really play with this. The higher it is, the more boise you will get in the photo. I very rarely very away from 100 - 400.

Aperture - This is how much light the camera will allow into the sensor. The higher the number, the less light. So. Lower = Higher. Higher = Lower.

Shutter Speed - You will generally see numbers like 1/XXXX, 20" or Bulb. 1/XXXX = 1/1000th of a second. 20" = 20 Seconds. Bulb = Open until you tell it to close. The longer you have it open, the more heat the sensor produces, the more noise on the photo.

Post processing is the absolute last thing you should worry about when taking a picture. Good lighting, depth of field, exposure, composition. Get those down first, then worry about post processing, or whether you're shooting in JPEG or RAW, or what lens you're using.

Personally, if you want to achieve a sort of "lifestyle" look to your images, I'd avoid using flash and try to use natural light. As in, from a (ideally large) window. (unless you have access to a lot of studio lighting)

If you use an external flash, it's extremely useful indoors. I always use it, and when used correctly, it can work absolute wonders. For example, let me just show you some work I've done in the past in just pure product photography:

005eze.jpg

015lu.jpg

026hed.jpg

(More @ http://www.linkinbox.com/portfolio )

And I've used a flash for ALL these pictures.

Back at OP: I didn't read your post in your last reply, but yeah, I'm using L-series lens. Yes, I'm not using super expensive equipment -- my other lens besides the 24-105 f/4L is the 70-200 f/2.8L -- but they are definitely much more costly than what the average person has on here. (And no, the Rebel is not my main camera, I'd just like to make that clear :p )

Also +1 to all those people who says post-processing is the last thing. I always take my photos as if Photoshop doesn't exist. I only use it for slight optimizations, but other than that, they're usually good out of the box. As I've said in my last post, the only thing I've adjusted in the pic you've quoted is a very slight adjustment on the white reference.

It's okay if you suck. Just take random shots of nothing in particular and then add some effects like a vignette, turn some to b&w or sepia, make it look like it's an old poloroid and people will think you're amazing.

  • Like 3

It's okay if you suck. Just take random shots of nothing in particular and then add some effects like a vignette, turn some to b&w or sepia, make it look like it's an old poloroid and people will think you're amazing.

hahahahahaha, this is sadly true

Wow. I didn't expect such responses. Thanks a bunch. I've read lots of valuable thoughts on the matter and feel a lot more confident. I didn't even know about the rule of thirds really and didn't give much thought to composition. Honestly, and I'd hate to admit this, but I've been using my SLR mostly as a point and click. I purchased it to capture both video and photo of our daughter after she was born because a point and shoot wouldn't satisfy. I didn't think about all the knowledge and technical know how that can go into a good shot.

I definitely didn't take offense to anyone saying the issue was the way the shot was set up or anything at all. The basis of this thread was for me to gain valuable insight from you guys and it's allowing me to do just that :)..

I agree by the way regarding instagram and vignette effects. I set out to take great pictures without having to rely on editing. I thought I'd be able to catch vibrant colours and vivid detail and not rely on heavy editing and most people I've met at local shops tell me about how everything is edited now anyways so I shouldn't care. The way I see it, I want a picture as accurate to the reality of the event or occasion it's capturing as possible, not to be some manufactured image covering up my crap shooting lol.

Here's an outdoor shot I took of a friend of mine and her son:

IMG_2039.jpg

And one of my niece:

IMG_2010.jpg

What could I have done, without the use of post processing to really make the colours pop? Would a polarizing filter have made much of a difference in regards to that?

I'll be sure to read the links posted as well. Thanks for those! When I get some downtime on the holiday tomorrow I'll check them out!

Love the feedback and greatly appreciate it!

Hmm...Well thank you. And if you really think so, maybe it's just Picasa that's making everything look dull. I just see pictures like this one, and wonder what they did to make it look so good.

4468213356_07ffffd287_z.jpg

I guess the issue isn't so much what I'm doing with the camera, but rather what I'm not doing in post processing.

This picture shows the use of focus. I'm guessing it was taken with a glass lens. Many cheaper digital cameras don't have lens optics. The subject is in focus, everything else is out of focus. This emphasises the subject. It also gives the image a 3D effect.

A good resolution camera appears to have been used. This makes the whiskers nice and clear. Also light can be seen reflecting off the faucet and cat's eyes. Natural light is suggested by the range of colour. Also the image is brighter on the top. Perhaps near a kitchen window.

A medium speed shot is suggested by the clearly defined stream of water. But no water drops can be clearly seen at the bottom.

The clarity of the image suggests it hasn't been heavily compressed. jpg compression can badly reduce the clarity of the image. So I avoid using jpg.

Pet photos are always popular. Perhaps they didn't do any post processing, composition is the big thing here.

I also dislike HDR like that as they lose touch with reality for me.

As for the photos with the kids and the woman above, to make the colors pop more, try using a curves tool to pull up the highlights a bit, and perhaps even the midtones. Then increase saturation if necessary.

Edit: Something similar to this can also be done by tightening the histogram a bit in the levels tool, and then adjusting the saturation if necessary.

I've had my Canon 550D for a few months and I've just been messing about since I got it, I mainly sit at "CA" setting. While keeping the ISO at as low as possible usually between 100-400.

Canon has added their relatively new exposure mode called Creative Auto (or "CA"). The CA mode is a cross between the green zone and program mode. When set to CA mode, the EOS 550D allows the user to adjust picture style, motor drive, and exposure compensation, as well as to use the program shift function and select between RAW or JPEG file formats, but the rest of the more complex features remain under automatic control.

Here are a few shots.

6655075687_24f37cd7ab_z.jpg

6369189559_37c5f9383d_z.jpg

6178233793_f4a62e725e_z.jpg

6155185306_9ddbc8d9b6.jpg

Nother photographer chiming in. RAW, btw , is not really a "trick" It's a format that saves the "RAW" data off the sensor, instead of applying the cameras jpg processing to the image before it's recorded. What Owen did in his before/after shot was to just tweak the data that the camera saved by boosting the exposure, among other things. raw allows you to do this because it saves all the data that was seen. The downside to raw is that it takes up more space, but if you're ever going to get serious, thats the first thing you should be doing.

The downside to raw is that it takes up more space

And really slows your burst shooting down as the Camera has to write the much larger data as fast which depending on your MicroSD's class slows you down.

I use a class 10 card for faster speeds but still get "Busy" message now and again

IMG_2855.jpg

it's sharp (i guess you sharpened it?) but the composition and lighting is nothing special, I think you are trying to have too many things in the frame and these things dominate too much of the space in a non flattering way. Try choosing only 1 or 2 things to focus on.

IMG_2039.jpg

And one of my niece:

IMG_2010.jpg

The first one has some potential since you have unintentionally included some hair lighting due to overhead lighting (noon time?). The issue lies in the fact that you shot this in the shade while not properly exposed, therefore the face overall looks dark, you can either bump up the exposure or use fill flash or bounce a reflector. For the 2nd one it looks under exposed overall, try bumping up the exposure and you would see some more pop.

With regards to the cat picture on page 1, it clearly demonstrate what you lack, which is composition, lighting, selective focus and post processing. Selective focus is easiest to do if you just go and buy a 50 1.8 or 35 f2, cheap and practical. For lighting, try using window light to your advantage. For composition, start with rules of third and go from there with your own feel. Post processing is personal preference.

With regards to the cat picture on page 1, it clearly demonstrate what you lack, which is composition, lighting, selective focus and post processing. Selective focus is easiest to do if you just go and buy a 50 1.8 or 35 f2, cheap and practical. For lighting, try using window light to your advantage. For composition, start with rules of third and go from there with your own feel. Post processing is personal preference.

Yes, this. Get a 1.8, stick something by window light, or candle light, or any other nice soft light and start taking pictures. Don't even worry too much about getting the composition right off the bat, just work on depth of field and exposure. The nice thing about new digital cameras is that their sensors are so gigantic, you can crop away afterwards and still have a print-worthy resolution.

lol okay I've been to that place and spot a dozen times and it never looks that good, a big tip of the hat to you for that shot. Its interesting seeing a shot of somewhere you've been like that, there really is some magic in post processing (not to take away from the work that went into taking that pic of course)

This.

It's impressive.

It's all to do with the exposure yes?

This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Posts

    • For a guy who claims to hate Farage and the ignorant, gullible, rightwing racist skinheads sponsored by Putin that his lies represent, you sure are quoting them time and time and time again, mate. Denial isn't just a river in Egypt.
    • Do you live in the U.K? Do any of the people here that are against the UK leaving the E.U, live in the U.K? If not then why are you bothered? If you do live here then it is a different thing . Brexit was a good idea, should have done it years before, it was done badly, but the idea was good. You are saying the same thing as remainers do, oh we did what Putin wanted, we listened to the lies and Farage. I hate Farage and never believed most of what he said, certainly did not believe the £350m a week for the NHS. But we did pay a lot of money to the E.U and yes some of it came back, but what is the point of paying it out for only some of it to come back? Get out of the E.U, no money to them and in theory we can use the money to do things in the country. I said in theory, but our governments are a total and complete waste of space. No matter what colour rosette they wear. You and others say it was a mistake and yet the two main parties in the U.K are not looking at rejoining the EU, I wonder why that is? I was not tricked by anyone. Makes no odds now, we are out and have been for 10 years, what we need is a decent government to run the country. All they do is shout at each other like a load of kids and seems to do nothing and make this country more into a police and nanny state. Getting more like China all the time.
    • 4TB TEAMGROUP MP44Q, 2TB T-Force G50, and 2TB WD My Passport SSDs drop to great prices by Fiza Ali Prime Day may be over, but there are still worthwhile storage deals available, including discounts on SSDs for shoppers who missed the event or are looking to upgrade their storage solution. Particularly, 2TB Western Digital My Passport, 2TB TEAMGROUP T-Force G50, and 4TB TEAMGROUP MP44Q SSD are selling at great prices with up to 23% off. The 2TB TEAMGROUP T-Force G50 is an M.2 2280 PCIe 4.0 x4 NVMe SSD with sequential read speeds of up to 5,000MB/s and sequential write speeds of up to 4,500MB/s. The drive has an endurance rating of 1,300 TBW (terabytes written) and features a DRAM-less design. The company specifies a mean time between failures (MTBF) of 3 million hours. The drive includes an "ultra-thin" graphene heat spreader that helps dissipate heat without significantly increasing the drive's thickness. It also supports S.M.A.R.T. monitoring, allowing compatible software to monitor drive health and operating status. The SSD is rated for operating temperatures from 0°C to 70°C, with a storage temperature range of -40°C to 85°C. The drive is backed by a five-year limited warranty as well. 2TB TEAMGROUP T-Force G50 SSD: $269.99 (Amazon US) The TEAMGROUP MP44Q is an M.2 2280 PCIe 4.0 x4 NVMe SSD that delivers sequential read speeds of up to 7,000MB/s and sequential write speeds of up to 5,900MB/s. It uses 3D QLC NAND flash memory to provide 4TB of storage capacity for games, applications, media files, and other data. The drive has an endurance rating of 2,000 TBW and an MTBF of 1.6 million hours. The SSD features a DRAM-less design and supports TEAMGROUP's S.M.A.R.T. monitoring software, allowing users to monitor drive health, temperature, and remaining lifespan. For thermal management, the MP44Q also includes an "ultra-thin" graphene heat spreader. It is designed to operate at temperatures between 0°C and 70°C and can be stored at temperatures ranging from -40°C to 85°C. The SSD is also backed by a five-year limited warranty. 4TB TEAMGROUP MP44Q SSD: $478.99 (Amazon US) The 2TB WD My Passport SSD connects via a USB-C port using the USB 3.2 Gen 2 interface. It delivers sequential read speeds of up to 1,050MB/s and sequential write speeds of up to 1,000MB/s through NVMe technology. In terms of security features, the drive includes password protection with 256-bit AES hardware encryption. The SSD is also designed to resist shock and vibration and is rated to withstand drops from heights of up to 6.5 feet. The recommended operating temperature range is 5°C to 35°C, while the non-operating temperature range is -20°C to 65°C. This drive is also backed by a five-year limited warranty. 2TB Western Digital My Passport SSD: $279.99 (Amazon US) Good to know This Amazon deal is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. Become a Prime member (for Students or SNAP) via Neowin Get Prime Access - Prime for half price (for qualifying Medicaid, EBT, SNAP) Subscribe to Prime Video, Audible Plus, Music Unlimited or Kindle Unlimited via Neowin As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
    • Yeah... The root of my comment, ostensibly, is how to spin the story via the actual technical merits of the solution! * Decentralized (aka federated) solution with built-in encrypted ephemeral message transport, * Transport via Relays (intermediary servers) with no message archival, * Second configurable pathway are actual email servers (if DNS records are programmed accordingly) via IMAP protocols carriage, * "Chat-over-Email" is the design pattern adopted; it can either leverage full-blown Email Server (must use the INBOX folder) to exchange all received messages/edits/reactions (so be weary of notifications overloads) [best practice is creating a separate email acct used explicitly for federated chat purposes!] or leverage its built-in Relay Server mechanism which actually resides on-device (by default but can be configured otherwise), * By virtue of be a decentralized/federated model, all other intermediary servers who may pass-along messages (while the recipient's final relay/device is inaccessible) cannot snoop on the messages due to the encrypted nature of contents. The intermediaries may, however, analyze the metadata due to the simple fact that routing mechanisms require hints for relay destinations. Unfortunately, whomever is posting about DeltaChat across socials are misleading with "zero metadata" claims -- especially when the Relays (according to their own technical documents) mandate the addition of chat-version metadata and other decorations in order to actually transport any message. -- Based on this summary, I'd prefer if they'd better dual-path message transport (email server add-in, federated relay engine) rather than patch-on email protocols to existing federated social media frameworks. They're frankensteining something rather than extending widely-deployed technology stacks.
    • Decentralized search result anonymization...
  • Recent Achievements

    • Week One Done
      flexorcist earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • One Month Later
      Woland13 earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • Week One Done
      Woland13 earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • One Year In
      bernmeister earned a badge
      One Year In
    • Week One Done
      Scoobystu earned a badge
      Week One Done
  • Popular Contributors

    1. 1
      +primortal
      493
    2. 2
      +Edouard
      225
    3. 3
      PsYcHoKiLLa
      148
    4. 4
      Steven P.
      75
    5. 5
      FloatingFatMan
      71
  • Tell a friend

    Love Neowin? Tell a friend!