Recommended Posts

I have a few tips, not sure what you pros would think though:

1. Always shoot in RAW.

2. Compose your shots before taking pictures, never point and shoot.

3. Never leave the camera in Auto mode set it to either Aperture or Shutter Priority depending on the type of shot you want.

and

4. Post processing is your friend.

Yes, though it won't be as effective.

To OP: If you don't want to spend too much on software right now you can use the software that came with your Canon camera, it'll allow you to do a plethora of adjustments and process the RAW files correctly.

Thanks, there is an open Beta of Lightroom 4 kicking about, its free until march too :)

Always take your photos with the intention of not having to use psot processing. Obviously your usaually going to need it but the less you have to do the better. You can end up loosing detail or worse if you over process them.

Take for example the before and after examples on the first page of this thread. Whilst the altered image looks more "professional" maybe to the average viewer, it looks fake and over done. Somewhere inbetween those two pictures would be much better.

And most importantly, shoot in raw, otherwise there's almost no point in even trying to do any prost processing.

Yes, but it's a bit of overkill, I'd stick with just WLPG.

while post processing is part of what makes that image what it is. the way it was taken is also improtant. No matter what Post he did, he wouldn't get that result with the camera set to automatic and just point and shooting it :)

lol okay I've been to that place and spot a dozen times and it never looks that good, a big tip of the hat to you for that shot. Its interesting seeing a shot of somewhere you've been like that, there really is some magic in post processing (not to take away from the work that went into taking that pic of course)

There is no post processing on this photo. That's how it came off the camera in M.

I haven't got the Exif here at work, but I was doing a lot of shooting at:

Aperture 10

ISO 100

30 Second exposure

Nikon D5100

All in manual.

One thing I'm noticing is a love for RAW. Don't get me wrong, I love RAW and shoot both RAW and JPEG Fine for all of my shots. I highly recommend this option, purely because for people new to photography, they want to show off what they've managed to do. If you have both a RAW and JPEG of that image, you can hook your camera up to any computer and pull the JPEG, where the RAW will need special software.

Just a thought for any newbies reading.

And to elaborate on a couple of the points other's have made, because I know I had no idea what things were.

ISO - Really play with this. The higher it is, the more boise you will get in the photo. I very rarely very away from 100 - 400.

Aperture - This is how much light the camera will allow into the sensor. The higher the number, the less light. So. Lower = Higher. Higher = Lower.

Shutter Speed - You will generally see numbers like 1/XXXX, 20" or Bulb. 1/XXXX = 1/1000th of a second. 20" = 20 Seconds. Bulb = Open until you tell it to close. The longer you have it open, the more heat the sensor produces, the more noise on the photo.

Post processing is the absolute last thing you should worry about when taking a picture. Good lighting, depth of field, exposure, composition. Get those down first, then worry about post processing, or whether you're shooting in JPEG or RAW, or what lens you're using.

Personally, if you want to achieve a sort of "lifestyle" look to your images, I'd avoid using flash and try to use natural light. As in, from a (ideally large) window. (unless you have access to a lot of studio lighting)

If you use an external flash, it's extremely useful indoors. I always use it, and when used correctly, it can work absolute wonders. For example, let me just show you some work I've done in the past in just pure product photography:

005eze.jpg

015lu.jpg

026hed.jpg

(More @ http://www.linkinbox.com/portfolio )

And I've used a flash for ALL these pictures.

Back at OP: I didn't read your post in your last reply, but yeah, I'm using L-series lens. Yes, I'm not using super expensive equipment -- my other lens besides the 24-105 f/4L is the 70-200 f/2.8L -- but they are definitely much more costly than what the average person has on here. (And no, the Rebel is not my main camera, I'd just like to make that clear :p )

Also +1 to all those people who says post-processing is the last thing. I always take my photos as if Photoshop doesn't exist. I only use it for slight optimizations, but other than that, they're usually good out of the box. As I've said in my last post, the only thing I've adjusted in the pic you've quoted is a very slight adjustment on the white reference.

It's okay if you suck. Just take random shots of nothing in particular and then add some effects like a vignette, turn some to b&w or sepia, make it look like it's an old poloroid and people will think you're amazing.

  • Like 3

It's okay if you suck. Just take random shots of nothing in particular and then add some effects like a vignette, turn some to b&w or sepia, make it look like it's an old poloroid and people will think you're amazing.

hahahahahaha, this is sadly true

Wow. I didn't expect such responses. Thanks a bunch. I've read lots of valuable thoughts on the matter and feel a lot more confident. I didn't even know about the rule of thirds really and didn't give much thought to composition. Honestly, and I'd hate to admit this, but I've been using my SLR mostly as a point and click. I purchased it to capture both video and photo of our daughter after she was born because a point and shoot wouldn't satisfy. I didn't think about all the knowledge and technical know how that can go into a good shot.

I definitely didn't take offense to anyone saying the issue was the way the shot was set up or anything at all. The basis of this thread was for me to gain valuable insight from you guys and it's allowing me to do just that :)..

I agree by the way regarding instagram and vignette effects. I set out to take great pictures without having to rely on editing. I thought I'd be able to catch vibrant colours and vivid detail and not rely on heavy editing and most people I've met at local shops tell me about how everything is edited now anyways so I shouldn't care. The way I see it, I want a picture as accurate to the reality of the event or occasion it's capturing as possible, not to be some manufactured image covering up my crap shooting lol.

Here's an outdoor shot I took of a friend of mine and her son:

IMG_2039.jpg

And one of my niece:

IMG_2010.jpg

What could I have done, without the use of post processing to really make the colours pop? Would a polarizing filter have made much of a difference in regards to that?

I'll be sure to read the links posted as well. Thanks for those! When I get some downtime on the holiday tomorrow I'll check them out!

Love the feedback and greatly appreciate it!

Hmm...Well thank you. And if you really think so, maybe it's just Picasa that's making everything look dull. I just see pictures like this one, and wonder what they did to make it look so good.

4468213356_07ffffd287_z.jpg

I guess the issue isn't so much what I'm doing with the camera, but rather what I'm not doing in post processing.

This picture shows the use of focus. I'm guessing it was taken with a glass lens. Many cheaper digital cameras don't have lens optics. The subject is in focus, everything else is out of focus. This emphasises the subject. It also gives the image a 3D effect.

A good resolution camera appears to have been used. This makes the whiskers nice and clear. Also light can be seen reflecting off the faucet and cat's eyes. Natural light is suggested by the range of colour. Also the image is brighter on the top. Perhaps near a kitchen window.

A medium speed shot is suggested by the clearly defined stream of water. But no water drops can be clearly seen at the bottom.

The clarity of the image suggests it hasn't been heavily compressed. jpg compression can badly reduce the clarity of the image. So I avoid using jpg.

Pet photos are always popular. Perhaps they didn't do any post processing, composition is the big thing here.

I also dislike HDR like that as they lose touch with reality for me.

As for the photos with the kids and the woman above, to make the colors pop more, try using a curves tool to pull up the highlights a bit, and perhaps even the midtones. Then increase saturation if necessary.

Edit: Something similar to this can also be done by tightening the histogram a bit in the levels tool, and then adjusting the saturation if necessary.

I've had my Canon 550D for a few months and I've just been messing about since I got it, I mainly sit at "CA" setting. While keeping the ISO at as low as possible usually between 100-400.

Canon has added their relatively new exposure mode called Creative Auto (or "CA"). The CA mode is a cross between the green zone and program mode. When set to CA mode, the EOS 550D allows the user to adjust picture style, motor drive, and exposure compensation, as well as to use the program shift function and select between RAW or JPEG file formats, but the rest of the more complex features remain under automatic control.

Here are a few shots.

6655075687_24f37cd7ab_z.jpg

6369189559_37c5f9383d_z.jpg

6178233793_f4a62e725e_z.jpg

6155185306_9ddbc8d9b6.jpg

Nother photographer chiming in. RAW, btw , is not really a "trick" It's a format that saves the "RAW" data off the sensor, instead of applying the cameras jpg processing to the image before it's recorded. What Owen did in his before/after shot was to just tweak the data that the camera saved by boosting the exposure, among other things. raw allows you to do this because it saves all the data that was seen. The downside to raw is that it takes up more space, but if you're ever going to get serious, thats the first thing you should be doing.

The downside to raw is that it takes up more space

And really slows your burst shooting down as the Camera has to write the much larger data as fast which depending on your MicroSD's class slows you down.

I use a class 10 card for faster speeds but still get "Busy" message now and again

IMG_2855.jpg

it's sharp (i guess you sharpened it?) but the composition and lighting is nothing special, I think you are trying to have too many things in the frame and these things dominate too much of the space in a non flattering way. Try choosing only 1 or 2 things to focus on.

IMG_2039.jpg

And one of my niece:

IMG_2010.jpg

The first one has some potential since you have unintentionally included some hair lighting due to overhead lighting (noon time?). The issue lies in the fact that you shot this in the shade while not properly exposed, therefore the face overall looks dark, you can either bump up the exposure or use fill flash or bounce a reflector. For the 2nd one it looks under exposed overall, try bumping up the exposure and you would see some more pop.

With regards to the cat picture on page 1, it clearly demonstrate what you lack, which is composition, lighting, selective focus and post processing. Selective focus is easiest to do if you just go and buy a 50 1.8 or 35 f2, cheap and practical. For lighting, try using window light to your advantage. For composition, start with rules of third and go from there with your own feel. Post processing is personal preference.

With regards to the cat picture on page 1, it clearly demonstrate what you lack, which is composition, lighting, selective focus and post processing. Selective focus is easiest to do if you just go and buy a 50 1.8 or 35 f2, cheap and practical. For lighting, try using window light to your advantage. For composition, start with rules of third and go from there with your own feel. Post processing is personal preference.

Yes, this. Get a 1.8, stick something by window light, or candle light, or any other nice soft light and start taking pictures. Don't even worry too much about getting the composition right off the bat, just work on depth of field and exposure. The nice thing about new digital cameras is that their sensors are so gigantic, you can crop away afterwards and still have a print-worthy resolution.

lol okay I've been to that place and spot a dozen times and it never looks that good, a big tip of the hat to you for that shot. Its interesting seeing a shot of somewhere you've been like that, there really is some magic in post processing (not to take away from the work that went into taking that pic of course)

This.

It's impressive.

It's all to do with the exposure yes?

This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Posts

    • Yup, that's a doozy right there 😄
    • It's a bundle of tools created by a variety of people, so things can go wrong sometimes. It's a great addition to Windows, and I use a lot of the tools on a daily basis. Also, it's still a 0.**** release so quick updates are to be expected 😉
    • Oh, I did. And it's even worse than I was hoping! Besides a lot of techno-babble jargon (yes I understand 100% of it but it's still all just techno-babble) there's 2 key points that make me super-weary about even considering testing this out. -- By default, after installation, a relay is automatically set up, so you do not need to care about that. * Non-chatmail apps use email servers as a long-term message archive while chatmail clients use email servers for ephemeral instant message relay. * Supporting the full variety of classic email setups would require considerable development and maintenance efforts, and complicate making chatmail-based messaging more resilient, reliable and fast. -- Basically, the end-user device is the 'server' (relay) so there is NO ARCHIVING whatsoever because every message is necessarily ephemeral. Great for techno-paranoia (and for illicit activities preferring no tracks to cover) but terrible for everybody else. It's also ironically contradictory to engineering principles of redundancies besides the transport layers due to the explicit absence of any persistent storage. Instead of 'classic email address' retaining multi-GB messaging archives on its server, now every device must retain 100% of those storage demands. (Email messages were originally meant to be short correspondences, not the multi-MB attachments boondoggle that now exists with unlimited spam engines flooding every potential recipient.) Any device swap or reset (or loss) makes the entire message history go bye-bye forever... lest there's an off-device auto-archival "relay" mechanism that's really a separate server that holds onto all transported messages (an email server) that utilizes 'chatmail email address' identities (like an email server) and its own persistent storage archive (like an email server). But... this solution is hoping to exist alongside real-world email address identities (based on the email server relay pathway) but simply render messages in chat thread format in an ephemeral manner (with contents being encrypted, and messages auto-expiring) ... In the end, it's a chat app/experience for the Web3/P2P-at-all-costs zealots. (I have accts on all sorts of federated web3 services so I understand the technical and non-technical alike.) For any practical users, however, it's just another service to download/install, register, cross-share id cards/qr codes, but know that there's no history/archive whatsoever (by design) so no account/message recovery whatsoever... update the device, install a bummed update patch, or dare upgrade your device... all history, poof, gone. Ya gotta start everything over again like they're a brand new person.
    • You've tried DuckDuckGo and Brave Search, now get serious with SearXNG by Paul Hill Over the last decade, it has become quite trendy to dump Google Search in favor of privacy-preserving alternatives such as DuckDuckGo, Startpage, and Brave Search. These search engines have done a very good job at highlighting dodgy practices by Google, such as adjusting search results based on what it thinks you’ll like (filter bubble) and stalking you around the web to advertise to you. While these search engines are good starting points when compared to non-private services like Google, there are still quite a few issues with them. For example, both DuckDuckGo and Brave Search require running non-free JavaScript in your web browser, which is comparable to running proprietary software on your computer, meaning you can be sure about what it’s actually doing in the background. Another issue is that these search engines are hosted on the respective companies’ servers, and you are using a service that you don’t control. Finally, DuckDuckGo, while offering privacy features, relies heavily on Microsoft’s infrastructure for its results and, in the past, has permitted Microsoft tracking scripts. If you are looking for a more private search solution than DuckDuckGo, Brave Search, and Startpage, then I recommend taking a look at SearXNG. It is a privacy-respecting metasearch engine that can be used via different public instances, which is useful for mobile users, or you can install it on your computer or server and run it locally with maximum control. Unlike Google, Bing, or Brave Search, which crawl the web and have their own search indexes, SearXNG is a metasearch engine, meaning it taps other search engines, stripping your identifying data, such as IP address, user agent, and cookies, in the process. Your search query is sent to the other search engines you enable before aggregating the results. SearXNG has deployment flexibility. If you are a casual user or a mobile user and don’t want to run SearXNG locally, you can use a public instance that is hosted by someone else. The main problem with this is that you are putting trust in the maintainer of the instance regarding stuff like logs that they may keep; good hosts should have a privacy policy explaining their policies. If you are trying to use SearXNG, you can also install the software on your device and then head to 127.0.0.1:8080 in your browser and search from there. While you don’t have to worry about a third-party admin like the public instances, search engines could ultimately block your IP address if they frown on you pulling in their search results locally. If you want to run it locally, it’s a good idea to use proxies or VPNs to hide your actual IP. You don’t have to worry about this with a public instance, as search engines never see your IP address. The main privacy benefit of using SearXNG is that it isolates your identity from the underlying engines that it’s capable of searching, such as Google and Bing. These search engines will only see requests coming from a generic server, so they can’t profile you and create a bubble filter that influences what results you see. This also ensures that your search engine doesn’t turn into an echo chamber that prevents you from reading alternative points of view. As a free software project, you are allowed to inspect SearXNG to make sure there are no negative features bundled inside. This sets it apart from the privacy search engines mentioned earlier because you can’t check their source code. As a meta search engine, you are not restricted to getting results from one source. Due to the fact that it scrapes content from other websites, your SearXNG instance will periodically get blocked from different providers, so it’s good to select a range of sources as a backup. While enabling all of the services will give you great results, this can make searching slower. I am personally happy with slower searches for the best results, but you can always check which providers are slowing down your search from the search results page and disable them to speed things up. If you want decent results quickly, enable the main search providers such as Google, Brave, DuckDuckGo, Qwant, Bing, and Yahoo. This way, you get wide coverage without the latency. On the Engines tab in Preferences, do note that there are different tabs, such as General, Images, and Videos, with their own providers that can be toggled and are not covered by "Enable all" while on the General tab, so be sure to dig into each. Just a note, if you want to enable everything, press "Enable all" in one tab, then hit save at the bottom of the page, then do the next tab, and so on. If you press "Enable all", then do that in each tab, and then save, nothing will stick. When I had just some of the search engines enabled, I searched “define nefarious” and results came back with the definition of “define” - obviously that was a sucky result. However, when I had everything enabled, it found dictionary pages for the word “nefarious” and even had an inline definition on the sidebar, which is quite nice too - that was delivered by WolframAlpha for anyone wondering! Probably the worst thing about this meta search engine is that the engines you select are saved with a cookie, so you must enable them on every new device you use SearXNG on, including if you decide to go into incognito mode with your web browser. Honestly, I would say this is the most annoying aspect, and perhaps if your browser lets you choose a separate private browsing search engine, then it would be best to use DuckDuckGo for this portion of your browsing. Another weakness of SearXNG is the random blocking of it by search providers. When you are on the results page, expand the “Response time” box, and it will show things like “Suspended: too many requests” or “access denied”. This is why it is good to enable several providers so that there is always a fallback to get results from. I won’t pretend SearXNG will be for everyone, however, if you enable all of the providers and put up with the slower response time, the results can be really amazing. Even if you don’t want to use it as your daily driver, keeping a bookmark handy that links to it is a good idea if you ever feel like doing a deep dive into a niche topic where other search engines are just failing to bring up any good result, due to the amount of sources it looks on. If you’re interested in radical user control over the software you use, installing SearXNG locally can also be a good idea, but be prepared to be temporarily blocked from sites if you trigger bot sensors without a VPN. Personally, I’ve opted to use a public instance, rather than install it myself. If you want to use it via a public instance, head over to searx.space to find a provider. Let us know in the comments if you have used SearXNG or its predecessor, Searx. What do you think about the quality of the results?
    • Dear Neowin, If it is not too much trouble, can you start using the new-ish designations for Insider Preview? "Experimental" is different than "former Dev" as it can apply to different models, eg 26H1 or 26H2 etc, right? No need to seed confusion IMHO. And, please "finally" update your graphics. OK?
  • Recent Achievements

    • Week One Done
      flexorcist earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • One Month Later
      Woland13 earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • Week One Done
      Woland13 earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • One Year In
      bernmeister earned a badge
      One Year In
    • Week One Done
      Scoobystu earned a badge
      Week One Done
  • Popular Contributors

    1. 1
      +primortal
      503
    2. 2
      +Edouard
      226
    3. 3
      PsYcHoKiLLa
      158
    4. 4
      Steven P.
      75
    5. 5
      FloatingFatMan
      71
  • Tell a friend

    Love Neowin? Tell a friend!