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With 5Ghz WLAN you should be able to hit 150Mbps on your laptop wirelessly. The problem with older routers is their routing CPUs and software wasn't as good so yeah. I get full 7MB/s downloads wirelessly on my laptop as well when I was downloading Windows 8 from TechNet. :)

Sucks about the HD DVR but they are trying to get away from those and rather you use Network DVR as I mentioned. TiVo and or other devices like that is where its gonna be from now if you want HDD storage at home.

Keep an eye on the signals too at the modem to see if they fluctuate with the heat which would then give you a better idea if the problem is as a result of heat or instead loose connections or bad wiring. For bad wiring tests connect it closer to the drop to see if signals are good there vs all the way where it's connected now.

Okay, on to finding one culprit at least. I bypassed the splitter behind my TV, it is needed as one line needs to go into the modem, another into the cable box. Main in coming from the wall (which is I believe coming down from the dreaded crawl space).

So bypassing the splitter completely and going straight from the wall into the modem produces these results.

Minus_SPLITTER.png

Definitly still not ideal, but much better than with the splitter.

So question is, how do I fix this? I need the splitter, so is it just a simple fact of I should pick up a new splitter and some new coaxial cable?

The coax cable being used is also unnecessarily long as well.

Believe I am going to take a ride to Radio Shack to pick those things up right now, but will wait to see if anyone replies.

Yeah see, this is the same modem with the splitter.

with%20SPLITTER.png

Off to radio shack to pick up some new (shorter as well) coax cables and a new splitter. I think they should help as i have to imagine the splitter and coax that is there now is also pretty old.

Brand new splitter and all new coax cables did jack. Same exact numbers. Luckily Radio Shack packaging is easy to put back together. :D

So obviously any splitter is going to make the numbers go up, so I have to get the numbers down before the line to the splitter. This does mean from the outside of my house through the crawl space though, so this is a project for Cablevision, absolutely. Now, to see if I convince them they have to do it.

Day 3 Speedtest

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Little to no fluctuation in my connection at all. This is a very good sign from my perspective.

When I was a OOL subscriber about 5 years ago, especially on the weekends when everyone was home, the connection would take a HUGE hit.

So very promising it is still working as it should. I think I am more or less comfortable with calling FIOS on Tuesday to cancel my service officially.

Man, I wish we got something more than we do now. We have Blue Ridge Cable, which gives up "fiber optic" internet from Pen Tela Data, depending on who you talk to.

10 Down and 786upload for $57 a month.

This cable company keeps comcast out of the area some how, once you go a few miles down the road, it's comcast. I was always happy with Comcast's internet speeds and price compared to what ****ty service we have now.

DOCSIS 2 for upload is normal and better than 1.x that some use (Time Warner in some places). They are upgrading though so guess most people wont see that. Using 1.x also is good in some areas where there's lots of noise on the line. On Comcast with multiple upload channels you'll see a mixture of 1.x and 2.0 A-TDMA and such to help get the most out of the available frequencies they have.

As for DL - I would have told you not to bother with the new splitter as I said your option is to try connecting closer to the line that is connected outside. Since you said that line is way too long anyways, you might want to get a direct run if possible. Dunno your house layout or how far away but basically that's what you need to do. With the splitter though, did you get a 5-1000mhz one from radioshack? Sometimes they have some crappy ones too anyways.

Even if only temporary, connect the modem to the tap even if that means just running a cable thru the window just to see how strong the power is at that connection by the Verizon box.That way you know what you can expect. If it's crappy there not much can be done and you'll just have to get Cablevision there. They will however say that since you aren't really having an issue it's not a problem (and in reality it's not) but just something to keep an eye on, don't stress too much about it till you start getting disconnects :D Keep an eye on your SNR mostly as that's where trouble starts happening when it gets below 30 - 33 and up being best - See mine below of how good you want it to be (might not be possible however :))

Here are mine in case you were curious:

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Here are my Labor Day weekend Sunday afternoon results in an apartment building area with lots of people home. I'm on 5Ghz WiFI.

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Not much to worry about as you can see :)

splitter.jpg

Is that outside? They left the cable open to the elements like that? Without a weather sealed box or anything? The cable back homewas in a properly sealed intake box and started to have oxidation on the copper in the wire. They found out while fixing our line and when he unplugged it, some guy from the office saw that all the noise they had on the whole network went away.

HawkMan, that is outdoors, you bring up a valid concern. I just do not know if that is okay.

@ Shotta thanks again man. I need one hell of a long line to run direct from the main line to the modem. Just not sure where I could get my hands on one.

Turns out a buddy of mine, his good friend is currently a Cablevision tech. I sent him a screenshot of my latest signals to get his feedback on it all as well.

  • 2 weeks later...

Still looking good DL?

Yeah no issues whatsoever, even with the not so great signals. Download speeds are still great, in fact I hit a new high the other day on Newsgroups of 8.3, so yeah, I am a happy camper. IF I get even a second of loss, I will no doubt be calling and raising hell, but luckily no need. But yeah, still getting pretty much the EXACT speeds I am paying for.

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And I have to say, I am MUCH happier overall with Optimum. Never thought that would be the case, but they truly offer the better services overall.

I did not think I would utilize it whatsoever, but being able to watch TV on either my iPad, Laptop, or the Kindle (which BTW, already got the free Kindle Fire they offered me for switching), really has come in handy. Like on Monday night Football, my wife really wanted to watch something on TV, so I said you know what, go ahead, I will put the game on the iPad. I had the iPad playing MNF as I was playing some Zen Pinball 2 on my Vita, really could not have been any geekier. :rofl:

Add in the free WiFi hotspots, which my area seems to have a whole lot of, and seriously, especially when considering I am saving $45 a month. The cost savings vs the new features I am now getting, yeah, totally 110% satisfied, even with the bad signals.

  • 2 months later...

I am resurrecting this old thread just to make sure, as I have Cablevision coming out tomorrow between 11AM-2PM...

I want the signal levels on my modem as close to 0 (zero) as possible correct? Or do I actually want it to be on the positive side closer to +15?

This is what I am referring to, under the Power column. This is actually an old screenshot, they are all at around -10 these days.

Minus_SPLITTER.png

TIA,

DL

The Optimum tech came out today, and he was able to get the signals on my modem a bit closer to 0 than they were previously...

ModemSignals_Dec2012.png

So that basically required a full swap of all of the hardware on the outside of my house. Splitters, connections, etc. etc.

He also said there is a piece of equipment on my block that is only temporary and was put up due to Hurricane Sandy. If I heard the name of it I could say yes that was it, but it is basically the component that is on the pole. Right now it is somehow coming out of the ground? I can take a pic of it tomorrow if anyone is really that interested in knowing what it is. But he said that may help matters a bit as well. And come to think of it, I really only started getting these little split second drops since the Hurricane. So hopefully that is a factor in everything.

So basically the only other option I have if I want my signals any better is to somehow rewire the inside of my house. He basically said the only way that is going to happen is if I continue to keep dropping connections to the internet or cable.

So will see how things play out, but I do have to say, I am still very please with Optimum overall. No doubt about it. They responded super quick to all of this (I called Friday night at 10 PM, and they had someone out Sunday afternoon at 1 PM). And it is not like things were not working during that time, as they were.

Looking good, those numbers are still in the "good" range, better than "ok" and "sux" and "terrible!!!!!" :p

Mine are on the other side now with +2 and 3s and no issues. Just ripped down a ISO (Microsoft Windows Server Standard 2012) at 7MB/s the whole way :D

  • 2 months later...

Well, I didn't see the need to start a whole new thread, just figured I would update this one...

I am switching back to FIOS.

On the 26th, I will now be a FIOS Quantum customer.

Few reasons for doing so...

Better speeds. Will be going from 50/8 to 75/35. That is pretty damn sweet.

Reliability. I have had several outages unfortunately with Optimum. About 10 overall. 2 of those was the 1 day a week my wife works from home.

One of those outages was over an hour long. Not to cool.

When I was a FIOS customer previously, and I was one for over 4 years, I had zero outages that entire time. So that actually is playing a big role in everything.

Also a few other things, multi-room DVR, a few more movie channels. Etc. It is more per month then what I was paying for Optimum, but all of the above makes up for that fact. I also am locked in for life with the current deal I have but with their normal 2 year contracts. If I did the month to month, would not have gotten as good of a deal as I did. And even though it is more than I pay now, it is not more then what I was paying Verizon when I left, and I got much less then I do currently. Verizon is definitely changing their ways, at least in my area.

I don't have FiOS available here either. :/ I actually have Optimum Ultra! :p And for some reason, I feel as if 101Mbps isn't even enough for me, or it's just not giving me the full throttle that I desire, or it's just me, I've had it give me straight downloads before. It once went up to 6 to 8MB/s somewhere. :|

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This topic is now closed to further replies.
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    • Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 Ergonomic Office Chair review: The Ikea of chairs by Steven Parker I've reviewed a few gaming chairs over the past three years or so and generally found them to score well in our reviews. SIHOO reached out asking if I was interested in taking a look at their flagship chair, the Doro C300 Pro V2. I never got the chance to check out its predecessor, but the V2 is described as an "Adaptive Ergonomic Chair." It became available to buy in April of this year. Let's get things rolling with a closer look at the specifications and features. Specifications Doro C300 Pro V2 Model Ergonomic Materials Mesh Back and Seat; Soft PU Coated Armrests Height adjustability 45.5 - 53 cm / 17.5" - 20.9" Seat (w+d) 52 x 43 - 47 cm / 20.5" x 16.9" - 18.5" (adjustable) Backrest 52 – 60 cm / 20.5" - 23.6" (adjustable) Lumbar support Mesh built-in (adjustable) Armrest adjustability 8D Bionic Armrests Rocking angle 105°, 120°, 135° (fixed) Neck support Mesh built-in (adjustable) Net weight 27.3 kg / 59.64 lbs Weight support 150 kg / 330 lbs Colors Black, White Warranty 5 years (upon registering) Price $499.99, $539.99 Introduction At first glance, it looks like a chair that in another life wants to be a Herman Miller; It certainly looks like my Aeron Remastered, but the Doro C300 Pro V2 has quite a few more features and costs quite a bit less. SIHOO says that it is made up of a "DynaCore" system that tracks your movement and synchronizes the headrest, backrest, lumbar support, and armrests as you shift, twist, or recline. They also say that the "SyncroFlex Backrest" molds to your spine, which kind of describes how the mesh fabric works in most ergonomic chairs, but anyway. Below are the meat and potatoes measurements for the chair. Here is the same tech sheet, but in inches. Durability I would be remiss to not talk about the various durability testing this chair underwent before coming to market, as this is claimed on the product page. First of all, the chair is BIFMA-, SGS-, and TÜV-certified. As for durability, the tests undergone were: 100,000 Castor cycles tested 120,000 Armrest cycles tested 120,000 Recline cycles tested 120,000 Gas lift cycles tested 60,000 Armrest durability cycles tested 120,000 Rotation cycles tested Nothing about weights testing, though. Now that's all disclosed, now onto my own personal findings. Assembly The Doro C300 Pro V2 came in two large boxes (1) (2), and everything was packed very well, protecting the different parts of the chair. In the box, there is a folded sheet that explains the 12 steps to assemble it; they are: Remove the bottom cover on the aluminum base; Insert the five legs into the aluminum base and use ten screws to fasten them; Insert the castors into the legs; Replace the bottom cover on the bottom of the aluminum base; Place the Class 4 Hydraulics gas cylinder into the aluminum base; Screw the bottom part of the arm rests, taking care of the orientation using two screws on each side; Use three torx screws to fasten the footrest to the bottom of the seat; Fasten the backrest to the seat using four torx bolts; Fasten the armrests to the backrest using four Torx bolts (two on each side), taking care to note the orientation; Place the chair onto the Class 4 Hydraulics gas cylinder; Insert the headrest into the top of the backrest; Use two torx screws to fasten the headrest to the backrest. There's also an online guide you can refer to. Carefully unpacking the two boxes took around 15 minutes because almost everything is wrapped in plastic and protective foam; the chair assembly itself took around an hour. I say in the above assembly steps to take note of the orientation, because it's not obvious which way around the bottom portion of the armrests go, and although there is an L and R on the bottom of the armrests, it also wasn't clear from the instructions which was actually left or right, facing the chair, or in the seated down orientation? Anyway, I ended up putting the bottom portions on the wrong sides, and after securing one of the armrests, I discovered that although it was on the correct side, the armrest base could rotate a full 360°, but not when bolted to the chair, so I had to remove it, rotate it, and then bolt it back on. Truly an Ikea experience! Also, to complicate things further, although all the parts are labeled from A to X (yes, that's 24 parts) unhelpfully, these letters do not appear on the parts themselves or the package with the bolts, screws, and washers. There's also a pair of protective gloves in the box, but I think they were made for much smaller hands than I have. Even my friend, who is 5.1, had difficulty putting them on. Once assembled, I needed to sit down. Anyway, as I said, it looks quite similar to my Herman Miller. And here is the back of it. If you look at the product page and on Amazon, it seems like a lot of thought has gone into the chair itself and what it's capable of, but there is no mention at all about the castors, and this is an area where I think the chair trips up quite quickly. I found it difficult to move the chair in any direction. I asked a friend who came to visit me earlier this week to test my findings, and she said that the wheels were "no good," so it definitely isn't just me. I am 6'2 myself and a big guy, I work from home and gained a few pounds from mostly staying in and the hell away from other people. However, the Doro C300 Pro V2 is rated for up to 150kg (330lbs), which in my case is used well within its max rating. Ergonomics The number of adjustments you can make, right up to setting it in nap mode — which I haven't fully tested yet — is what you'd expect from a premium chair. Yes, you can go up and down (max 7.5 cm adjustment), rock back and forth (with tilt adjustment), and lock the chair between three stages of 105°, 120°, 135°, which is not quite as flat as the AndaSeat I tested at 160°. Some thought has also gone into the "8D" armrests, too, which are cushioned but quite firm; you'll only know it if you press hard into the PU-covered tops, which give about half a centimeter, but it's enough to ensure your skin won't get awkwardly stuck to it in warmer (or sweatier) conditions. It almost feels like plastic and is very easy to keep clean. However, the armrest positions move far too easily, and I am not sure what that "elbow" function is. Maybe it is good for a short person with short arms, anyway, I never used it and kept it flat at all times. There are eight levels of adjustment for the armrests, they are: backwards, forwards, swing left/right, height up and down, tilt, and 360° rotation, which can be handy for desk clearance. As I said, the armrest pads shift far too easily, which could give off an ergonomic vibe, but who wants the armrest sliding when you are shifting weight? The height adjustability does lock into place when lifting and adjusting. Comfort This is ultimately what it boils down to at the end of the day, right? Quite a lot of reviews praise the comfort of this chair, and I don't disagree that the mesh seating is quite comfortable. I am used to the material from my daily Herman Miller. However, the backrest cannot be locked into place, and this is actually a feature; as you shift or recline yourself on the chair, the backrest moves with your body. It took some getting used to. The lumbar gives ample support, but I would have preferred an adjustable one built into the seat base, as this causes the backrest to move up and down at will. Again, as with my previous chair review, this chair is also rated for tall people, but nowhere in the product documentation does it say how tall. Being 6'2 myself, I'm happy to say that the backrest is tall and wide enough, and thought has been given to being able to adjust the neck rest, but as others have mentioned in their reviews, people as tall as 6.2ft is about the limit for the neckrest. Conclusion What I didn't like The footrest is rated for 15kg (33 lbs), which to me seems a bit light, and after looking online, it seems like a chair footrest for adults must be at least twice that rating. In all honesty, they are just hollow metal tubes, so it is not recommended to let a kid sit on them. I also feel like it doesn't really go out far enough for my height, so that kind of puts the dampener on me being able to use it regularly. I'll just have to continue to use my subwoofer as a footrest! I do not like the armrests being able to shift around as easily as they can, and they are a little too forward-positioned in the chair to comfortably sit close to my desk, because even in the lowest height position, they don't allow me to go under the desk like is possible with my Herman Miller. I also feel like this chair could have been delivered partially constructed, especially the armrests on the seat, and why the aluminum base wasn't already pre-constructed (without the castors) is baffling, considering it would have fit in one of the two boxes that way. The instructions also need to be clearer. On the pamphlet, there's an A to X listing (which is also used in the steps), but none of the physical parts use this lettering system! What I did like I'll be honest, I haven't used it for very long, just one week, and seating comfort is subjective after all! Any spills wiped straight off it, the stitching, and the lines look great, not a fray to be seen or stitch out of place. It looks kind of cool, too. My favorite feature of these seats is the nap mode. While you're not lying completely flat, it leans far back enough to make you easily doze off after a heavy gaming or working session. Overall, this chair offers plenty of comfort features. The MSRP does vary quite a bit depending on the region, at £549.99 in the UK, and €580 in Europe, and $599 before tax in the U.S. However, shipping is free, which is a bonus for such a heavy item. Is it worth it, though? At three years' warranty, I think it's a decent deal. Another firm out of Germany sent me a free replacement hydraulic gas spring for a chair that failed after almost four years, so it was well outside its two-year warranty. My advice is to always try, as you might have the same luck I did. If I could fault it at all, it would be the constant shifting of the armrests and backrest. Where to buy Although the footrest variant normally costs $539.99, it has been discounted to $469.99 on the official website in Black or White. In fact, the non-footrest variant is only $40 cheaper. On Amazon, it currently costs more at $499.99 links below. Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 for $469.99 (official website) Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 for $499.99 at Amazon US SIHOO provided a free sample without any review or pre-approval. Good to know This Amazon link is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. Become a Prime member (for Students or SNAP) via Neowin Get Prime Access - Prime for half price (for qualifying Medicaid, EBT, SNAP) Subscribe to Prime Video, Audible Plus, Music Unlimited or Kindle Unlimited via Neowin As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
    • Making US citizens pay is a prominent tool? Joke of the week…
    • Price Drop: Save 86% on Microsoft Office 2021 Professional Plus lifetime digital license by Steven Parker Today's highlighted deal comes via our Apps + Software section of the Neowin Deals store, where you can save 86% on a lifetime license to Microsoft Office 2021 for Windows. This bundle is for families and small businesses who want classic Office apps and email. It includes Word, Excel, PowerPoint, Outlook, Teams, and OneNote. A one-time purchase installed on 1 Windows PC for use at home or work. Lifetime license for MS Word, Excel, PowerPoint, Outlook, Teams, & OneNote One-time purchase installed on 1 Windows PC for use at home or work Instant Delivery & Download – access your software license keys and download links instantly Free customer service – only the best support! Microsoft Office Professional 2021 (for Windows) includes: Microsoft Office Word Microsoft Office Excel Microsoft Office PowerPoint Microsoft Office Outlook Microsoft Office Teams Microsoft Office OneNote Microsoft Office Publisher Microsoft Office Access No faffing about with subscriptions, just classic apps that don't expire. Good to Know ONE-TIME PURCHASE INSTALLED ON 1 DEVICE Redemption deadline: redeem your code within 30 days of purchase Access options: desktop Full versions No subscriptions – no monthly/annual fees Version: 2021 Updates included* *Support for this version of Office ends on Oct 13, 2026 A lifetime subscription to Microsoft Office 2021 Professional normally costs $219.99, but this deal can be yours for just $29.97, that's a saving of $190. For full terms, specifications, and license info, click the link below. Get Microsoft Office Professional 2021 for just $29.97, or learn more Although priced in U.S. dollars, this deal is available for digital purchase worldwide. Support queries If you have queries or need support for any of the Neowin Deals, please use the contact form here. Neowin Deals are managed and sold by StackCommerce who represent Neowin on an affiliate basis. Why we post these deals We post these because we earn commission on each sale so as not to rely solely on advertising, which many of our readers block. It all helps toward paying staff reporters, servers and hosting costs. So for those that keep moaning and complaining, be thankful we're still online for you to even do that. Other ways to support Neowin Whitelist Neowin by not blocking our ads Create a free member account to see fewer ads Make a donation to support our day to day running costs Subscribe to Neowin - for $14 a year, or $28 a year for an ad-free experience Disclosure: Neowin benefits from revenue of each sale made through our branded deals site powered by StackCommerce.
    • The only reason I want to know where you from is because if you are not from the U.K, then why should you care what we in the U.K do or don't do? Racist I am not, I am fed up with the amount coming over here and feel they can come over here and think we need to support them. Do you know how much it costs this country to support these people coming over here? Even when we give them a place to live it is not good enough. We had a barge that was being used to house immigrants, oh but that was not good enough. A mate said to me at the time, when he was homeless, he would have been happy to live on the barge, instead of ending up sleeping on a bench on the beach. I am not scared to say what my family heritage is, unlike you who is scared to say where they are from or where they live. Father side U.S, mother side Wales, still have family living in the U.S. A mate who sadly died a few years ago, had a load of people from different races recording in his studio, I got on with all of them. Skin colour don't bother me, where they are from don't bother me. Religion don't bother me as long as they don't push it onto me and it is not crazy stuff. I am not religious. But if you are not living in the U.K, then why should you care if we are in the E.U or not? This the problem, too many people poking their noses into where it don't belong. But you believe what you believe, if you think I am racist, then be it, I really do not care. Just grow a pair
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