When PC is turned on, fans stay at max speed, no beep, no display


Recommended Posts

post-645-0-35421500-1356793701.jpg

http://uk.rs-online....rt-option=Price

I don't know which one to choose :/

I wouldn't want to take a guess either, doing a search for "6.3v 1500uf" on that site brings up some caps but they don't look like the ones on your card, so not sure if the same with different design or completely different

Best waiting for someone who knows about electronics

EDIT - Ebay search brings some closer looking results

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=6.3v+1500uf&_sacat=0&_from=R40

I wouldn't want to take a guess either, doing a search for "6.3v 1500uf" on that site brings up some caps but they don't look like the ones on your card, so not sure if the same with different design or completely different

Best waiting for someone who knows about electronics

I posted on a forum for electricians, thinking well, electricity, components, it's all the same :D But they ridiculed me lol...

I posted on a forum for electricians, thinking well, electricity, components, it's all the same :D But they ridiculed me lol...

lol, I edited my post with this from ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=6.3v+1500uf&_sacat=0&_from=R40

They look a closer match but again wouldn't want to guess, the wrong one could finish the card off completely

^ All that matters is the specs -- picofarads and voltage -- if they match exactly, it's OK.

Exact looks don't count.

There is going to be some variation between electronics manufacturers.

Check digikey, match up the farad rating and be sure that it's voltage rating is equal or higher and,if possible, look for a low ESR one. The spacing looks cramped so be sure to check the data sheet to be sure it'll fit in the existing footprint.

Also make sure you put them in the right way. There is a long leg and a short leg, the long leg is the positive side. Putting them in the wrong way will break them and possibly other components :)

You should look for a through hole electrolytic (so non ceramic) capacitor of the correct capacitance (measured in Fahrads). That's about all, doesn't really matter what it looks like :)

Ah, thanks for all the help, guys! :)

Also, Detection, they're now being friendlier.

Ah good, lol, there are always the know-it-all trolls in every forum who greet new members with a baseball bat :)

Looks like with a mixture of advice from here and there you should be good to go then

Ah, thanks for all the help, guys! :)

Also, Detection, they're now being friendlier.

to be fair, you did ask on the wrong forum ;) I have a master in electronics, if you have any questions, I'll be glad to answer them

to be fair, you did ask on the wrong forum ;) I have a master in electronics, if you have any questions, I'll be glad to answer them

That would be great :)

Which would you go for as a replacement? They're all radial, and all have a ?20% tolerance:

  1. ?0.33, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 5000h lifetime, 1220 mA ripple current, 4 ?A leakage current
  2. ?0.40, 8x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 3.5 mm lead pitch, 1220mA ripple current
  3. ?0.54, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 3000h lifetime, 1220 mA ripple current, 3 ?A leakage current
  4. ?0.57, 12.5x15 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 5000h lifetime, 1205 mA ripple current, 3 ?A leakage current
  5. ?0.58, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 5000h lifetime, 2180 mA ripple current
  6. ?0.60, 10x16 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 4000h lifetime, 2140 mA ripple current

That would be great :)

Which would you go for as a replacement? They're all radial, and all have a ?20% tolerance:

  1. ?0.33, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 4 ?A leakage current, 5000h lifetime, 1220 mA ripple current
  2. ?0.40, 8x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 3.5 mm lead pitch, 1220mA ripple current
  3. ?0.54, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 3 ?A leakage current, 3000h lifetime, 1220 mA ripple current
  4. ?0.57, 12.5x15 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 3 ?A leakage current, 5000h lifetime, 1205 mA ripple current
  5. ?0.58, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 5000h lifetime, 2180 mA ripple current
  6. ?0.60, 10x16 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 4000h lifetime, 2140 mA ripple current

Have you measured the existing cap?

measure the distance between the pins on the old cap, that is the lead pitch. It should be the same if you want the cap to fit. The other specs won't really matter for this case.

Well, the diameter of the cap itself would of course ;)

Desolder and take out the popped one and take it down to an electronics shop. The good ol' fashion way ;)

Nearest one is 24 miles away and they shut at 16:30 each day, which is daft for a customer that works full-time.

We'll see what we can do :)

Nearest one is 24 miles away and they shut at 16:30 each day, which is daft for a customer that works full-time.

We'll see what we can do :)

Ah! Scrap that idea then.

You're in the some predicament as me where any sort of decent shop is to far to get to easily, for some reason i always assume everyone lives on a busy shopping street :p

Check digikey, match up the farad rating and be sure that it's voltage rating is equal or higher and,if possible, look for a low ESR one. The spacing looks cramped so be sure to check the data sheet to be sure it'll fit in the existing footprint.

Pretty much this - this is true for all capacitors. As a matter of fact - the voltage rating doesn't really have a maximum. Although in my experience, the higher the voltage, the bigger the cap - so this does matter within reason :laugh:

Pretty much this - this is true for all capacitors. As a matter of fact - the voltage rating doesn't really have a maximum. Although in my experience, the higher the voltage, the bigger the cap - so this does matter within reason :laugh:

just like inductors, the max voltage/amperage isn't exact. The component may work at 50v even though it's rated at 35v but the lifespan will suffer.

Just be glad the faulty component just had two leads. I had to swap out an 8-SIP package once, not fun.

That's normal with old PCs; best to get a new one ;)

My vista laptop sucks as well :/ mehh thats why i use the ipad more :p

Cheap electrolytic caps tend to fail. If you know what you're doing, 30cents and 15 seconds, you're back on business.

This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Posts

    • You do you, I've just said that it first appeared in "home" version before it will be available in "work" one. I use Edge only because it still supports MV2 uBO extension even on Android - I'll switch when they stop.
    • I imagine that was a review or something? My reviews mostly contain a lot of images and galleries, but these are all webp too, but yeah it all adds up on the page load. Would help if you were more helpful with your critique instead of bitching and moaning like a Karen 😂 Because then we might be able to fix it for you.
    • If Valve refused to let them make the case, I wonder if they've already partnered with someone else to do it? The fact that they didn't seek permission/licence before diving straight in is incredible though
    • OpenClaw now has native mobile apps on iOS and Android by Karthik Mudaliar OpenClaw, the viral open-source personal AI agent, now has its own mobile app, available on both Android and iOS. Users can pair the app with an existing OpenClaw gateway and can start using new mobile-native features that are now available on the app. The app supports all the existing features you'd already have seen on OpenClaw's TUI, as well as some more, such as real-time and background Talk mode, action approvals, sharing from iOS, and optional access to device capabilities such as camera, screen, location, photos, contacts, calendar, and reminders. These features are available on both the Android and iOS versions of the app. What's important with these apps is that they don't run OpenClaw on your phone, but are actually just companion apps that require a running OpenClaw Gateway on an existing device, on macOS, Linux, or Windows via WSL2. To pair the app with your existing OpenClaw gateway, users need to run the command "/pair qr" on the TUI or existing chat interface, which brings up a QR code. Users can then scan this QR code to pair it up with the mobile app. There's also an option to manually pair the app by entering the host and a port. Previously, OpenClaw had been available on phones via WhatsApp, Telegram, Slack, Discord, Microsoft Teams, Matrix, and others. Now, with a native mobile app, the interface is much cleaner and more focused on just the OpenClaw, of course, with the added support for camera, screen, location, and more. It's important to note that OpenClaw comes with its own security warnings. There's always a chance of prompt injection with these tools, so users are recommended to double-check authentication, tool policy, sandboxing, and execution approvals rather than prompts alone. For users well-versed with the AI harness, a native mobile app makes it easier to approve an automation, share a link, use voice, or let an agent react to phone-side context.
  • Recent Achievements

    • First Post
      rosiecharles earned a badge
      First Post
    • Reacting Well
      Juan Dela earned a badge
      Reacting Well
    • Week One Done
      Collagen Project earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • Reacting Well
      Wakeen1966 earned a badge
      Reacting Well
    • Rookie
      Almohandis went up a rank
      Rookie
  • Popular Contributors

    1. 1
      +primortal
      515
    2. 2
      +Edouard
      273
    3. 3
      PsYcHoKiLLa
      143
    4. 4
      Steven P.
      100
    5. 5
      macoman
      54
  • Tell a friend

    Love Neowin? Tell a friend!