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1 hour ago, BudMan said:

Not sure how anyone could possible find G ok... Do you not do anything on your local network, no streaming of movies or anything.. I take it your internet is slow and G is cable of handling it.. But wow how can you actually do anything with such connection... The files I move over to my nas in 30 seconds would take hours..

think you meant "capable"... 🤣

@BudMan

 

I am on DSL. I am not a fan of streaming in general even though I don't mind streaming some basic YouTube videos here and there.

 

but yeah, with 420KB/s MAX (but it's more like 400KB/s give or take a little), my older router can easily handle it and I don't really transfer files much over the network as if I did it would be limited to 10-11MB/s tops and would be a problem if I did that a lot and had plenty of data to transfer. I do have a external docking station that I can connect 3.5" and 2.5" hard drives to but that uses a USB v3.0 connection so I have no limit here as the USB 3 connection will max out my hard drives.

 

p.s. but like I was saying... what I do have going for me is unlimited data as I am sure there is faster internet available in the area but I doubt they have unlimited as I would rather have a slower line (but still usable) with unlimited data than have something fast and be capped to say 250GB a month max etc since at 400KB/s I can potentially download as much as about 1TB(1000GB) a month). even for a conservative figure of 380KB/s... would potentially give me a theoretical maximum of right around 985GB a month. because sometimes I don't go over 250GB in a month, but sometimes I do. so basically if I have to choose between 400KB/s(0.4MB/s) and unlimited data or say 1-2MB/s (or faster) but with a 250GB a month limit, I am definitely going with the 400KB/s option.

Data caps would depend on your isp.. I have no such cap and download multiple TB (sometimes in a month).. Xfinity cap is 1TB a month I do believe..   I have 500/50mbps with no cap..

 

How much does this screaming uncapped 400KB connection cost you btw?  Mine is $59 a month..   For what 156x your speed ;)  So I would hope your cost would be in the range of 60/150  so like 40 cents a month? ;)

 

Glad you happy with it - but your phone has to have a faster connection just via cell ;)

@BudMan

 

If that's the case they must have raised it as we had Comcast at one point in the past but they had a 250GB cap the last I knew. but at 1TB a month I can easily work with that as I doubt I even come close to that amount of data in a month as I 'might' reach around half of that or so at the most and those would be my higher months as even if I had a very fast line with unlimited data, there is only so much one can download before it becomes a obsession basically as I think some people download stuff just to collect it, sort of like a download addition as I pretty much stopped doing that years ago and only download stuff ill use etc which 1TB a month is clearly more than enough for me as the last I checked my routers general data info, off the top of my head, I am probably somewhere between 150-300GB (or so) per month most of the time.

 

I think my DSL is roughly $40-45 or so and I suspect your area has faster/cheaper internet than where I am at (although to be honest I have not looked around in years). I am sure Comcast has those introductory offers but I just wonder what their cheap plans are (as in straight up monthly price after the introductory offer is over) as I would be mostly concerned with the cheapest internet possible but without a data cap (or if there is a data cap it needs to be no lower than 500GB a month) and passable/usable level of speed (I would imagine anything around 3-4MB/s is plenty) because after a certain point speed becomes overkill to where it's not worth the extra monthly costs unless people are obsessed with downloading files with very little wait time. but the way I see it, if you can download a large file within a reasonable time frame, it's easily fast enough.

 

also, when you say 500/50mbps I assume that means your download speed is about 62.5MB/s, maybe a little less? ; if so, that's amazing as I don't think I ever had more than around 1-2MB/s off the top of my head. but I guess some people are spoiled nowadays as even anywhere around 2MB/s a sec would be great in my mind and it appears your WELL beyond that as you can get like  a 10GB file in like roughly a few minutes (assuming about 60MB/s) which is great as it takes me about 7-8hours for that same file.

 

your $59 a month is quite reasonable especially for that very high download speed. but personally if I could shave that down to say $30-40 or less a month for even a fraction of the speed you got I would easily do it as I am sure I would be more than happy with even 3MB/s or so as that's pretty much nearly 11GB a hour which basically means just about any large file could be downloaded in about a hour tops and I could easily wait a hour especially considering it takes me in the ball park of 7-8 hours. but anyways, since I first got my DSL, while 400KB/s sounds slow, it's MUCH better than what I originally started with which was 40KB/s.

 

just some thoughts and thanks for the suggestions ;)

 

NOTE: I never understood why people always refer to general internet speed as kbps/mbps instead of KB/s and MB/s as the KB/s and MB/s makes more sense since it's what people generally are more familiar with as when you download a basic file it's almost always going to be in KB/s or MB/s.

 

p.s. I don't have a cell phone. I know that's rare in today's world but I simply won't use them enough to justify the monthly costs.

Yeah I can see 60MBps download - normally is in the mid to high 50's.. All depends on where your getting something from to be honest..

 

Here just grabbed this 2GB file server off vps of mine in NL.

download.thumb.png.dca0a5339578bd737344ba405b9dac97.png

 

There is some fluctuation in that, and depending on time of day its can be slower, etc.. but yeah I do see my full pipe of what paying for..

 

I would look around for sure for better connection.. Shoot even a LTE connection would be way faster, but those sorts of connections normally do have caps.

 

You normally see speeds in mbps vs KB.. Because these are the speeds because bits is the base value and not bytes.. For example would normally refer to your speed as say 3mbps vs 400KB, as the speed increases you move into the next.. So for example you would call it 1gbps vs 1000mbps ;)

 

 

@BudMan

 

Damn, that's amazing ;)

 

hell, it could fluctuate down to anywhere near 5-10MB/s and it would still be more than great. but in your case I suspect it mostly boils down to the source speed (server) of the file more than your line being the limiting factor. when you download from random websites... is your download speed quite a bit slower at times due to the server not being able to max out your line?

I don't download from "random" websites ;) hehehe

 

Other than loading the sites themselves which are not much in total size, so its kind of hard to see how fast its actually going.. But lets just say pretty much any sites pretty much just load instantly.. If a site takes more than a couple of seconds it seems like something is wrong.

 

I guess if you have not seen faster, then you get use to what you have... But once you see how the internet is suppose to be on a decent speed connection.. Yeah going back to something like 3mbps would be like freaking watch paint dry.. And would just be frustrating as hell.. It would drive me insane ;)

 

To be honest the internet at work is painfully slow to be honest..

heheh dude my first modem was 600 baud... I could type faster than the data could be transferred.. the v.22 when v.32 came out wow that was screaming 2400 baud ;)

 

There was no ISA slots even back then.. Those didn't come out to early 80's  At school had the old ones you had to put the phone handset in ;)  Dialing into the mainframe at unlv so we could do a fortran assignments..

haha, I was only born in '85. I do know the older architecture, but never really used it like you.

 

Edit: And I really never got into computers until the 98/2000 days...

1 minute ago, BudMan said:

Then yeah you prob didn't get to play with the old plug your phone  handset into the modem..

Sadly, no... I have seen this in a computer museum once, but never used it.

Our first computer was 1995 (I was born 1979) which is basically 3-5 years before computers were mainstream (so about 1998-2000 which is similar with general cell phones to) as the oldest OS I used was Win v3.11 on a 486dx2 66Mhz CPU. I think that had a 2400baud modem and 4MB of RAM (upgraded to 8MB) and a 4xxMB HDD. so I don't go back to the early days, but I go back before most people were online ;) ; I remember using 14.4/28.8 and 33 something I think and then the standard before they pretty much dumped dial-up... 56k which, is 5-6KB/s at best. so even really slow internet is lightning compared to those days but then again back then things were generally a lot less graphics heavy to keep website load times reasonable.

 

but you could basically say once Windows 95 came along it's overall interface is pretty much the same as today's, or similar enough. but it seems it was at least Windows 98 before computers hit mainstream status. I did use Win2k which was before WinXP, because as far as Microsoft goes, Win2k was the first stable OS that the average person could use although the first stable OS from Microsoft that was targeted at the home user was WinXP as prior to the Win2k/WinXP thing you generally had to reboot your computer fairly often as the OS's generally were not stable enough to go for several days or weeks or more like they have been since pretty much Win2k/WinXP to date.

 

p.s. we had high speed internet available in the area since the year 2000 as according to the person who installed it in my area said I was one of the earlier people to get it. so that will generally give you a rough idea on computers going mainstream etc. I imagine in more bigger cities it could have been a bit before that but I would say that general 1998-2000 time frame is either exactly right or pretty close to it in terms of mainstream status to where many started getting computers/internet.

 

4 hours ago, Mindovermaster said:

And I really never got into computers until the 98/2000 days

 

Yeah, that's pretty much inline with the masses. like the early day's of PC/Internet going mainstream.

 

7 hours ago, BudMan said:

I don't download from "random" websites

 

Well I just mean downloading a decent sized file from a website you can generally see how quick it's downloading unless the file is not large enough for it to take at least a few minutes for you. but I guess with your speed, since it's so fast, unless the file is pretty large, it will probably be done before you can even gauge the speed it's going (probably very shortly after you start it). lol

 

but since I noticed your old school pictures above... that appears to be clearly before my day. but internet in general was pretty much not available to the general public til roughly early 1990's? ; but from a quick search online it appears it was Aug 6th 1991 when internet first became available to the general public. so I guess given that info I was roughly in between the beginning (i.e. 1991) and mainstream status (i.e. about 1998-2000) since I was 1995.

Before the internet was BBSes, use to dial into quite a few of those ;)  Use to send messages around the world with fido, etc. Take a few days.. But was faster than snail mail ;) hehehe

 

here

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bulletin_board_system

  • Like 2
  • 6 months later...

UPDATE: on Jan 31st 2020 I replaced the two 16v 470uF capacitors (with some used ones I found around the house(although they are 85c rated instead of the stocks 105c)) in the ASUS WL-520gU router and it seems to have cured it's stability/uptime issues as I am nearly 2 days 18 hours in and so far all is good. but ill probably need a full week, maybe two, before I can say for sure. but I am pretty confident replacing the capacitors fixed it since in recent memory the router has gotten worse as I noticed even the wireless was kicking out (like the light was completely off even after attempted hard-reset etc and then came back on out-of-the-blue several minutes later) and typically could not get more than about a day or so of uptime. I stumbled into this stuff over on the DD-WRT forums where someone said he's fixed quite a few routers etc this way.

 

I suspect that's what's acting up on my Linksys WRT54GS v1.1 which has four 25v 220uF caps in it which I suspect ill eventually replaced with some Panasonic ones on Ebay for only around $5 as the ones in it currently are likely generic junk as it shows HERMEI for brand name on them, which apparently are made in Taiwan, where as quality caps typically come from Japan as looking around online there are a fair amount of brands that are supposed to be top tier caps and Panasonic is one them.

 

I even re-flashed to the newest firmware (FreshTomato 2020.1) on the ASUS WL-520gU and cleared the NVRAM and reconfigured from scratch to help ensure no glitches remain.

 

so I just thought I would update this topic as this could be useful for those who have a soldering iron etc as it's a simple $5-ish fix which makes it worth doing as if it was like $20+ it would not be worth attempting.

 

p.s. I heard that can even fix PSU's and computer monitors a good portion of the time to but I never tried it on one yet as my computer monitor is 10 years old this month and still going strong. but if it dies, if I can get some caps for around $10, ill probably gamble and give it a shot.

Edited by ThaCrip
  • Like 2
On 7/24/2019 at 10:49 PM, BudMan said:

Then yeah you prob didn't get to play with the old plug your phone  handset into the modem..

 

Acoustic_coupler_20041015_175456_1.jpg

Wow! That's some old a** stuff! Never even seen or heard of such a contraption, but then I was one of the last people to even get a computer in my circle of people. Thought a computer in the house was as dumb as dirt back then. Wife convinced me to get one and said I would probably like it. Boy, was she sorry she said that! Used to tie up the phone all day and night downloading from Napster and stuff! Don't do nearly as much online as I used to anymore. Have gotten older and realized there's way more to life than setting in front of a monitor.

1 hour ago, ThaCrip said:

p.s. I heard that can even fix PSU's and computer monitors a good portion of the time to but I never tried it on one yet as my computer monitor is 10 years old this month and still going strong. but if it dies, if I can get some caps for around $10, ill probably gamble and give it a shot.

You sure can, Iv`e fixed several tv`s, monitors and other stuff over the years due to bad/blown caps. It`s quite easy to tell normally and as you say for a few quid you`re not losing much if it doesn`t work. Just got to make sure you get the same value capacitor and get the polarity right.

 

Glad you seem to have got it sorted 👍

@Riggers

 

But the caps on both of my routers look perfectly okay (i.e. no swollen caps or leaks (like one would normally expect)) even though it appears they were actually bad as at the moment I got 3 days 6 hours+ and everything still seems okay. because this is the same experience of the person I talked to over on the DD-WRT forums in that the caps appear to be perfectly okay from a visual standpoint even though they are not.

 

I have some caps on my old motherboard that are swollen, with some even appeared to have slightly leaked, but it's still stable the last I checked as I ran a memory test and Prime95 on it back around Jan 2019 and all was good. because there are at least 8-10 caps that are at least slightly swollen with a bit appearing to have slightly leaked. but given how much work it is, and it's just a backup computer, I probably won't bother fixing it for the foreseeable future.

 

p.s. I am aware of the whole negative/positive stuff as I take note of that before removing the old caps and I know you can increase voltage of the capacitor (like say go from stocks 16v to say 25v for example) but cannot decrease it (like if stock is 16v you cannot go lower than that).

  • Like 1

UPDATE: on my ASUS WL-520gU router I just noticed that FreshTomato 2020.1 reset the uptime after about 6 days. I am currently running a recent build of DD-WRT (r41686(Dec 10th 2019)) and I am going to see if that works better as I figure if I can get a couple of weeks (maybe a month tops) out of it, chances are DD-WRT is fine. if not, ill see if the Linksys WRT54GS v1.1 fairs any better once I replace the capacitors in it soon which ill likely be doing sometime next week.

17 hours ago, ThaCrip said:

WRT54GS v1.1 fairs any better once I replace the capacitors

Why would anyone waste time doing this?  Are you wanting to have a museum piece or something?

 

What could you possible be using that connects at G speeds?  Is your time and effort not worth a hundred times more than the $20 it would cost to get even the cheapest of current wifi routers that can do atleast modern wifi, N, AC..

@BudMan

 

My internet is nothing special to where Wireless G is much faster than it so there ain't much point in buying something faster and I got more time than $. besides at $5 I don't have much to lose besides a bit of my time and assuming all of that works I should be able to easily get several more years of use out of it.

 

even if I did get a newer router it's got to be compatible with DD-WRT etc.

 

p.s. some people are quite spoiled nowadays when they get several MB/s and think it's slow as I would be more than happy around 2-3MB/s when I currently get 0.42MB/s (420KB/s MAX) and even at 2-3MB/s, my current router could handle that. hell, even if my router handicapped speed a bit on a wired connection for example... it's LAN port limit of about 10MB/s, which is still very fast for just about any internet use short of large transfers over a local network for which gigabit LAN router ports would be a solid boost in that regard as while I would not mind getting a newer router that has gigabit LAN ports (or a bit faster WiFi for potential transfers over network), I am in no rush.

 

besides... how is reliability on newer routers in comparison to the older Wireless G kind? ; because I am the type who prefers hardware to last a long time as I am not that type who wants to upgrade every 2-4 years etc.

2 hours ago, ThaCrip said:

I currently get 0.42MB/s (420KB/s MAX) and even at 2-3MB/s, my current router could handle that. hell

What sort of nonsense connection is that.. You can't even stream SD netflix with such a ###### connection..

 

If you think this is fun, then sure have at it... But my time even if 20 minutes of it wouldn't be worth the effort to use such a ###### speed device... Don't get me wrong, the wrt54s were smoking in their day... 15, shoot almost 20 years ago now.. The first model was was 2002..  dd-wrt runs on modern hardware AC models..  You could get a tplink AC1750 gig router that ddwrt works on for less than $60.. I personally couldn't be bothered dicking with such an old piece of gear..  While your internet might be slow.. Your telling me you don't have any devices that could use N or AC for wifi.. 

37 minutes ago, BudMan said:

What sort of nonsense connection is that.. You can't even stream SD netflix with such a ###### connection

 

I am not a fan of streaming in general short of watching a occasional YouTube video, which works fine.

 

38 minutes ago, BudMan said:

While your internet might be slow.. Your telling me you don't have any devices that could use N or AC for wifi

 

With 420KB/s MAX download (call it around 400KB/s), it won't really matter from a general internet use standpoint whether I got Wireless G or some modern stuff since Wireless G easily exceeds my internet line speed. hell, even if it did not... just from a basic browsing websites point of view, once you reach a certain level of speed your 'fast enough' as it's not like your waiting there forever for a basic website page to load (like if one goes from near instant, call it a second or two or so, to maybe 5 seconds or so), it's not a big deal if you ask me). that's kind of why I figure once your internet line reaches a certain level of speed, I would rather pay less $ for a slower internet line if possible.

 

41 minutes ago, BudMan said:

You could get a tplink AC1750 gig router that ddwrt works on for less than $60

 

Sure, but around $50 is not exactly pocket change and I would rather put that $ towards future general computer hardware upgrades especially given my situation.

 

or I could put it this way... even if I was going to upgrade from Wireless G to a more modern router I would figure about $50 would be the high end of what I would pay for a router, as that's still reasonable, although I would feel much better around $20-30 or so which is quite reasonable. around $100 for a router is just way to much money when you can get something quite a bit cheaper and not all that much worse.

1 hour ago, ThaCrip said:

around $100 for a router is just way to much money

We come from different worlds then.. My router, which isn't even wireless was $750..  One of my AP was double $100 max budget of your, which not sure how you think that is too much for a wifi router..

 

All comes down to what you want/need it to do... Nothing on the market for a $100 that would do what I want..  But hey if you fine with redoing caps on a 20 year old antique.. Glad you having fun..

 

You could pick up something that is way better than some old wrt54g for a like $20..

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Processor E-cores L3-cache Turbo clock GPU GPU-clock TDP Intel N355 8 6 MB 3.9 GHz 32 EUs 1.35 GHz 9 W Intel Core 3 N350 3.9 GHz 1.35 GHz 7 W Intel Core i3-N305 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz 9 W Intel Core i3-N300 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz Intel N250 4 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz 6 W Intel Processor N200 3.7 GHz 0.75 GHz Intel N150 3.6 GHz 24 EUs 1 GHz Intel N97 1.2 GHz 12 W Intel Processor N100 3.4 GHz 0.75 GHz 6 W The CPU is part of the Alder Lake-N series that sits just below the top N355 offering, albeit with an impressive TDP (less than the N355 and N305) for the features it offers. It is designed for low- powered systems and entry-level laptops. As before, we are seeing another NAS with an acceptable, if not great, amount of RAM. It should be noted that the F4-425 Pro only has one SODIMM slot, so if you are planning to upgrade the already 16GB included in this NAS, it will have to be on one module of Single Rank DDR5. As a reminder, up until a couple of years ago, it was commonplace to only get 2 or 4GB max on a flagship Synology or QNAP home NAS. Ever since the likes of TerraMaster and more have entered the market with ample RAM sizes included in their NAS offerings, it has gone a long way in forcing the hands of the traditional makers to up their game a bit. Before we dive in, you can view the different SKUs released so far since the 2025 series launched for Home and SMB users, with the most important specifications listed along with the MSRP listed below: SKU CPU Cores Memory Link Price F2-425 Intel N5095 4 4 GB DDR4 2.5 GbE x1 $249.99 F4-425 Intel N5095 4 4 GB DDR4 2.5 GbE x1 $369.99 F2-425 Plus Intel Core N150 4 8 GB DDR5 5 GbE x 2 $399.99 F4-425 Plus Intel Core N150 4 16 GB DDR5 5 GbE x 2 $569.99 F4-425 Pro Intel Core N305 8 8 GB DDR5 5 GbE x 2 $699.99 F4-425 Pro Intel Core N350 8 16 GB DDR5 5 GbE x 2 $799.99 The F2 in the product name means two 3.5-inch HDD bays, where F4 is four 2.5-inch bays. First impressions Like with the F8 SSD Plus packaging, the F4-425 Pro is using the upgraded box materials, which certainly look better than a plain cream colored box with TERRAMASTER stamped on the sides. The box gives off a premium feel and certainly adds a positive vibe to first impressions. In the box F4-425 Pro TNAS device Power adapter LAN cable (CAT 6) Quick guide [full online guide] Limited warranty notice Screws (for HDD bays) Stickers 2x rubber feet (spares) Design As has become kind of common with TerraMaster, certainly in the last three years, the 2025 F2- and F4-series have received a makeover that really adds to the premium feel of the NAS. Gone are the plastic shells, now replaced with an aluminum outer shell, with the front and back retaining the textured black plastic we saw on the 2024 models. Some key differences from the 2024 series include placing the power button back on the front, along with the addition of a Type A USB port. It's not much bigger or heavier either; in fact, it weighs 500 grams less than the F4-424 Pro. It's slightly shorter in height and depth (length), but only by a few millimeters. The front and back do retain a similar style to the 2024 series. On the front, you just have your four bays along with LED indicators for the HDDs and power. The welcomed change is having a USB port on the front for quick access, should you need to back up a USB drive, for example. Around the back, from top to bottom, you have a reset pin hole, an HDMI port, two 5 GbE Ethernet ports, two USB 3.2 Gen 2 (10 Gbps) Type A ports with a Type-C port below them, and a connector for the barrel port power source. Again, there's no Kensington Security Slot present, which is a bit of a shame considering it's a data storage device. Left side Right side On the left and right of the F4-425 Plus, it is completely smooth aluminum with a TERRAMASTER logo printed on both sides. On the bottom, there are some holes to assist ventilation. Unlike with the F4-425 Plus, the rubber feet did come unstuck during the teardown, which was also an issue on the 2023 series. It seems like other customers have lodged complaints about them, as TerraMaster now includes two spare rubber feet in the box, in case any of the preinstalled ones are lost; however, this seems more like a papering over the cracks solution rather than actually fixing the issue with better quality rubber stand-offs. There are also four screws that must be removed in order to access the internals. Teardown Upon removing the four screws, you can slide the device out of its shell to reveal the three NVMe M.2 slots (PCIe 3.0 X1) and single SODIMM slot connector, which is populated with a single 16GB DDR5 4800MT/s module. I added a couple of MP44Q M.2 PCIe 4.0 SSDs (2 x 4TB) that can be availed on Amazon for $492.99 that TEAMGROUP supplied us with, along with a 250GB 970 Evo Plus that my colleague Chris White sent me by accident and let me keep a few years ago. As I have said in previous reviews, TerraMaster support staff actually encourage installing whatever you want on their devices, and happily, the USB port for the bootloader is now easily accessible should you want to use it for your own flavor of NAS OS, such as TrueNAS, Unraid, or maybe Xpenology. Yes, because TerraMaster has now switched to a 256 GB NAND Flash card (3rd photo above) for the TOS bootloader. This is also replaceable, but you can also simply add a USB bootloader, access the BIOS, and tell the F4-425 Pro to boot from that instead of the Flash card. Unlike earlier iterations of TerraMaster NAS, you don't have to tear this down any further than the four screws on the outer shell in order to be able to access and manage the memory, NVMe slots, and USB bootloader. However, if you need to access the NAND Flash card or CMOS battery, then eight more screws (four on each side) need to be removed in order to take off the rear panel with the 120mm fan, and then the motherboard can be lifted off and removed from the SATA connector PCB. There's also no risk of threading the screw holes, because the four that hold the shell in place are metal on metal, while the screws that hold the rear panel on do screw into plastic. Either way, like last time when I reviewed the F4-425 plus, I was just happier to see larger screws being used. Overall, it follows some great improvements in build quality from the 2024 series and earlier. Setup BIOS The F4-425 Pro includes an Aptio BIOS from American Megatrends [1, 2], and you can setup pretty much everything here including the boot order, which is locked to the UEFI OS, however above that choice you can enable or disable booting to the USB bootloader so this would still allow you to switch to a USB stick with an alternative bootloader and boot from it, or disable it to instead always start from the first disk with an OS installed on it. Initial Setup Setup is roughly the same as the F4-425 Plus, along with the new TOS 7 setup dialogs, so there will be no surprises here. Upon connecting to the LAN and booting up, the F4-425 Pro can be reached by navigating to http://tnas.local. If that doesn't work, you can use the local address assigned via DHCP, which you can find using the TNAS PC desktop application, which is essentially a TerraMaster NAS finder. The setup process is pretty straightforward, through a wizard, and in full below: TOS 7 Initialization As you can see, TOS 7 received a new coat of paint, and the initialization requires fewer interactions. Happily, TOS no longer decides to throw all disks into the same Storage Pool; 2.5-inch HDDs are allocated into Storage Pool 1. This is because two of the HDDs are allocated to hold system files. Previously (with TOS 5 and 6), if you pre-installed HDDs and SSDs, they were all placed into Storage Pool 1, even if you did not select the SSDs for inclusion during the onboarding. TOS 7 Setup On first boot, there is a tutorial and some steps to take to harden the TNAS (or not), which includes an immediate update from TOS 7.0.0616 to 7.0.0706, of which the changelog screenshot is also included in the above gallery. It must be noted that the Security Advisor still contains (in my opinion) a pretty major bug in that if you enable SPC and then do the required rebooting, the Security Advisor still says that SPC is disabled. TerraMaster provided the following statement about it: It is disappointing that TOS 7 has been in beta since December, and this OOBE issue is still there. Shutdown option has moved Instead of a Taskbar option to manage the NAS, all of these options have been moved to a "Start panel", initially I didn't see it and my contact had to show me how to power off the F4-425 Pro. To logout, reboot or power off you can find those controls at the top right of the Panel. It is also possible to power off through the TNAS mobile app beta. Storage setup Above, you can see the steps I took to create the Storage Pools and Volumes. I made a second Storage Pool using TRAID on two 4TB MP44Q SSDs (which, in this instance, is similar to RAID 5), and finally, I added the 250GB 970 Evo Plus drive as Hyper Cache on Storage Pool 1 in Balanced mode. Registering If you decide not to lock down the F4-425 Pro in Security Isolation Mode (blocking all external connections), then you could set up a TNAS device ID through the Remote Access setting in the Control Panel (which must be unique). This works in combination with an online TerraMaster account. TOS 7 TNAS Online Creating a TerraMaster account and linking the device online activates the warranty when you provide proof of purchase and the serial number, but it also gives you access through the TNAS mobile app, which allows you to complete certain operationsб including powering off and restarting the NAS remotely. A TNAS mobile update is required to gain access through TOS 7, and this is provided on the TerraMaster website, as it is not yet on Google Play. The app is evolving all the time and has made leaps and bounds since I first started reviewing TerraMaster devices almost three years ago. It is not quite there yet if you are comparing the likes of Synology, which, sadly, a lot of users online do all the time. OpenClaw setup One of the main selling points of the new F4-425 Pro is the inclusion of OpenClaw, with TerraMaster claiming that it is "powered by the world's first AI-native TOS 7 OS, supporting local-first smart workflows and independent data control." However, I immediately ran into problems trying to enable OpenClaw. After waiting 20 minutes at the "Enabling" message of the OpenClaw app following installation, I decided to do some searching online and discovered that it couldn't complete the installation process due to SPC being enabled, which is something TOS 7 immediately recommends to be enabled on first boot. SPC for NAS (TOS 7) is basically the same principle as UAC in Windows; it blocks executables from being launched by non-Super Users. After reaching out to my contact about these issues, I received the following response: Anyway, this only became clear when I closed the OpenClaw app screen and clicked on the OpenClaw icon in the taskbar; that is when I saw the message about disabling SPC. I think, due to the fact that this is a requirement, this should be a prompt during the installation process, not when closing the App Market and then trying to launch OpenClaw. There's also no 'Getting started' guide for people like me who have never used OpenClaw. I tried to add an LLM and discovered the tutorial led nowhere. That's when I started looking around the official TerraMaster forums, and I found a guide that helpfully explains that you won't get anywhere with OpenClaw unless you have a paid plan, which is disappointing because I imagined there would be an option to use a local LLM as I do in SubtitleEdit with Whisper-XXL. In addition, with the marketing imagery on the official site, it says that the OpenClaw feature is "all processed 100% locally for absolute privacy." which led me to believe that I could install a local LLM, not one that required paid tokens. In any case, TerraMaster does not provide guidance for this new feature, which was also a selling point of the F4-425 Pro! My contact also provided clarification about the above points I raised with TerraMaster Since it is not in the scope of the review to add paid services, I'll leave that to the people who are more qualified with OpenClaw. F4-425 Pro Surveillance App TOS also comes with a Surveillance app, which is not installed by default; it can be found in the App Market recommended section. In addition, after installing, it doesn't drop a shortcut on the Desktop or top taskbar, but you can "Send to Desktop" from the App Market listing for the app for a quick way to open it. Adding my Reolink POE doorbell camera was painless. TerraMaster doesn't appear to have a repository of preconfigured cameras; instead, the camera must be added using ONVIF or RTSP. No mobile Surveillance app TerraMaster still doesn't have a dedicated Surveillance app, although from searching online, Surveillance can be used and managed through the TNAS mobile app. I tried this with the updated TNAS mobile app beta in combination with TOS 7 and got a message that Surveillance was "Only accessible through web browser," so I reckon this must be limited to the stable versions of TOS 6 and the mobile app. More quirks In addition, whenever I minimized the Live View window in the browser Surveillance app, the feed appeared to switch to the Low-bandwidth stream, and there was no way to get the High-quality stream back. To get the High-quality stream back, I had to close Live View and then reopen it. Benchmarking A pretty cool feature of the TOS 7 is that it allows you to install directly to the NVMe M.2 SSD. In order to do that, you would have to leave out any HDDs during initialization, and even then, the system partitions are always written to two HDDs when they are eventually added. With three NVMe slots, this also gives an interesting scenario where you could build a TRAID storage Pool for installing all your apps and Docker on, and keep the third for SSD cache on the HDD pool. Limitless options! SATA PCIe 3.0 X1 A CrystalDiskMark test on a mapped network drive from within a Windows 11 25H2 PC (image above) connected over a 5 GbE hub was well within acceptable ranges. Although the read result on SATA was a little less than with the F4-425 Plus, for some reason, while writes were generally better. SATA PCIe 3.0 X1 I also ran the NAS Performance tester, which tests the link speed performance. As you can see, it pretty much maxes out the 5GbE connection. Of course, you can also opt to bond the two 5 GbE connections for a bit more umph, but I didn't do that. TOS 7, which, as of testing, is still in Beta, comes with an App Center that has a bunch of handy programs you can install right off the bat, such as Emby, Plex, Docker, as well as in-house Backup and Surveillance solutions. As you can imagine, any media streaming services you would want to host off the F4-425 Pro will work great, thanks to the Intel Core N350 CPU and its 16 GB of DDR5 memory. Accessing from mobile is only possible if Security Isolation Mode is disabled, which can put your NAS at risk from external sources, so there was no way to access it from the TNAS Mobile app. It's also quiet. I had this sat next to my computer on my work desk for the past week, and I did wonder if the noise I was accustomed to with NAS devices would annoy me, but all I could hear was a soft whirring of the rear fan (which was a little annoying) when the disks were not actively copying or reading data. Conclusion So what have I learned? Unfortunately, this release raises a few important questions and concerns that I feel haven't been adequately addressed. What I didn't like Our variant shipped with TOS 7 beta, and it's advised not to use it in a production environment. I feel that's a bit limiting on an $800 device. The mobile app is also still in beta and does not support some of the first-party apps, like Surveillance, and it still has quite a few bugs. I am a bit confused about the OpenClaw marketing along with the F4-425 Pro. I feel like that if it's going to be a main selling point, then offer official guidance on how to get started with it. TerraMaster recommends enabling SPC, but then markets the NAS for use with OpenClaw, which requires disabling SPC to be able to use it, opening up genuine security concerns for the NAS; and that's before you get into the security concerns of OpenClaw itself. Of course, the above issues won't be a problem if you decide to install something else on it, or even go back to the stable TOS 6. I wish TerraMaster had just given TOS 7 as opt-in rather than shipping with it. TOS 7 has been available as a preview since December 2025 (so well before my last TerraMaster review), and according to a thread on Reddit where a user shared a screenshot from the TerraMaster Facebook page, it is scheduled to launch today, June 23, but there's nothing about that in the TerraMaster news blog. My contact confirmed over email that TOS 7 exits beta today. The rubber feet also deserve a mention as they continue to be a problem, with them coming unstuck the moment you shift the F4-425 Pro anywhere on your desk. What I liked What it comes down to, though, aside from what I already mentioned, you are still getting a quality, affordable device here, so recommending it will depend on the individual's use case. If you're just looking for a relatively small NAS device to manage virtual machines on, backup your files, and take care of your home theater streaming, then it is a great device that will certainly futureproof you for some time. It provides good performance, takes up little space, and is, on the whole, very quiet. Four bays afford proper redundancy using TRAID or RAID 5, and you can even expand on storage capacity by adding the 2-bay D5, or 4-bay D8 Hybrid DAS over a USB 3.2 (10Gbps) link. Considering the 2024 releases were more about power, with the likes of an Intel Core i5-1235U high-end laptop CPU under the hood, I asked my contact last time if we could expect more of the same in higher-end models and was told: It makes a lot of sense to use Intel's N350 chip inside a NAS; it is more than capable of doing what the F4-425 Pro is intended for, media streaming and backup. The only downside is still the clear lack of community and even staff support on the official forums. In the past, I have had topics go unanswered for days, or there would be generic-type "we've noted this and passed it onto our developer team" type responses. Along with the other things I mentioned, it all ends up costing it a couple of points. If you are comfortable with the command line, Docker, and setting up TrueNAS or Unraid, you'll be fine. You can do great things with this hardware. In TOS, the apps are a bit lacking, and things don't always work as expected.\ AI NAS?! What has become clear to me this year is that we are going to start seeing all kinds of "AI NAS" come to market, and while that might be good for us consumers, be diligent and research these claims. Although the F4-425 Pro technically comes with AI, it is really using a cloud service that is externally sourced off-device through the third party OpenClaw app. My colleague did review a newcomer to the NAS space earlier this year, and it includes a local AI assistant inside the Zettlab D4 NAS, and they do not even use AI in the product name, check out Chris' review here. Where to buy and a discount coupon However, it does not change the fact that this is truly a great entry-level home media-class NAS that you can buy right now. TerraMaster is having a 20% off launch discount, plus you can also still apply our unique 10% off coupon on checkout, which only works on the official website. So here is a breakdown of the pricing that is only valid on the official TerraMaster website. TerraMaster F4-425 Pro (N350) + 20% discount + 10% coupon = $575.99 TerraMaster F4-425 Pro (N305) + 20% discount + 10% coupon = $503.99 TerraMaster F4-425 Pro (N350) + 20% discount + 10% coupon = £525.59 TerraMaster F4-425 Pro (N305) + 20% discount + 10% coupon = £460.79 Use NEOWIN coupon code during checkout for 10% discount Over on Amazon US and UK, the F4-425 Pro also gets a 20% launch discount, but here, the above 10% coupon cannot be applied. TerraMaster F4-425 Pro (N350) for $639.99 at Amazon US (was $799.99) TerraMaster F4-425 Pro (N305) for $559.99 at Amazon US (was $699.99) TerraMaster F4-425 Pro (N350) for £583.99 at Amazon UK (was £729.99) TerraMaster F4-425 Pro (N305) for £511.99 at Amazon UK (was £639.99) As an Amazon Associate, when you purchase through links on our site, we earn from qualifying purchases.
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