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4 minutes ago, BudMan said:

We come from different worlds then.. My router, which isn't even wireless was $750..  One of my AP was double $100 max budget of your, which not sure how you think that is too much for a wifi router..

 

All comes down to what you want/need it to do... Nothing on the market for a $100 that would do what I want..  But hey if you fine with redoing caps on a 20 year old antique.. Glad you having fun..

 

You could pick up something that is way better than some old wrt54g for a like $20..

Which router do you have?

2 hours ago, BudMan said:

You could pick up something that is way better than some old wrt54g for a like $20

 

Yeah, I am sure your right as I imagine I could get a decent upgrade for around $20-30 and I would not fault someone who did just that.

2 hours ago, BudMan said:

We come from different worlds then.. My router, which isn't even wireless was $750..  One of my AP was double $100 max budget of your, which not sure how you think that is too much for a wifi router

 

Yeah, you clearly have money to burn then if your dropping hundreds on networking equipment for ones home. it's probably overkill for someone anywhere near average person though as even for slightly above average people I can't see shelling out more than around $100-150 or so as much beyond that is a lot of money for something you just need to give you some basic wired and wireless internet connection that's fast enough.

 

basically routers in the $100+ range are a bit steep considering most just need it to give them a decent wired/wireless internet connection when you can get one that does it 'well enough' for probably no more than $50-ish. I just can't see the $100-200+ routing equipment being enough of a benefit to justify the much higher costs as that $100-200 could be put towards other computer hardware etc.

 

2 hours ago, BudMan said:

But hey if you fine with redoing caps on a 20 year old antique.. Glad you having fun

 

I would imagine it's probably 15 years tops given the Sep 2004 FCC approval date here... http://techinfodepot.shoutwiki.com/wiki/Linksys_WRT54GS_v1.1

 

...and those Wireless G types of routers were probably in use for many for at least the late 2000's, maybe a bit beyond that, off the top of my head.

 

I would guesstimate my specific Linksys WRt54GS v1.1 does not have more than 7 years of use on it max as if you assume it's probably from about 2005 and I got a hold of it May 15th 2011 and it was pretty much collecting dust til about June/July 2019.

10 minutes ago, BudMan said:

For you with your 420Kb internet connection prob not ;)...

 

Even if I had a moderately fast connection, say several MB/s, I could still not see $100-200+ for a router as that's approaching desktop computer prices and the like when one could get something fast enough at likely half of that price or less.

And clearly you don't do any networking or firewalling.. Nor do you run vlans most likely, or do any sort of multicast acls on your switches, etc. etc..   Several MBs isn't fast ;)  My 500/50 mbps is workable.. But its not "fast"..  1000/1000 I would consider fast.. ###### I am toying with going 10ge here on my lan...

 

If my phone doesn't get 300+ something is not right with the network ;)

123MBytes.. Yeah that is smoking gig connection.. Nice... So you run that off your $50 soho router I take it ;)

 

Normally I see 60MBps from my server in NL..

typical.thumb.jpg.b92ffbb82eec178057832283a8199337.jpg

 

Early morning it can spike and hit 70,71... But normally its right around 60.. 123 is just screaming at full gig for sure.. Nice ;)

 

I would move to the gig plan, but upload is the same at 50.. Waiting for that to change to symmetrical.. What I need is more up.. The cost diff from 500/50 to 1000/50 not worth it for me.. For 1000/100 prob do it..

 

Whats your up on that plan?

 

49 minutes ago, BudMan said:

Several MBs isn't fast

 

It's far from slow as I would say it's definitely closer to fast than slow ;) ; you can claim my internet is slow but definitely not several MB/s as @ 5MB/s one could download a HD movie in about 15-30min in most cases and if someone considers that too long to wait, they are flat out spoiled (that would be roughly 3-6 hours (maybe a bit more) on my line). that's easily on the faster side of things given it's a minimal wait time for a rather large file.

 

because one can download just about anything within reason without having to wait hours @ 5MB/s. even half of that speed I would have no trouble waiting as it would only be about 30min-1hr which is still easily fast enough.

 

5 minutes ago, adrynalyne said:

My best download speed has been 123MB/s

 

Damn! ; at that rate one could download a HD movie in roughly 1min, 2min MAX ;)

 

hell, ones hard drive might be the limiting factor (as in the hard drive will be the bottleneck not the internet line itself) at that speed depending on it's size.

7 minutes ago, ThaCrip said:

 

 

It's far from slow as I would say it's definitely closer to fast than slow ;) ; you can claim my internet is slow but definitely not several MB/s as @ 5MB/s one could download a HD movie in about 15-30min in most cases and if someone considers that too long to wait, they are flat out spoiled (that would be roughly 3-6 hours (maybe a bit more) on my line). that's easily on the faster side of things given it's a minimal wait time for a rather large file.

 

because one can download just about anything within reason without having to wait hours @ 5MB/s. even half of that speed I would have no trouble waiting as it would only be about 30min-1hr which is still easily fast enough.

 

 

Damn! ; at that rate one could download a HD movie in roughly 1min, 2min MAX ;)

 

hell, ones hard drive might be the limiting factor (as in the hard drive will be the bottleneck not the internet line itself) at that speed depending on it's size.

Yeah, even CPU can be a limiting factor at that speed. I've seen slower, old machines with SSDs not be able to handle it. My daughter's old dual core laptop stuttered through the speed test and only got about half that.

 

That said, it takes a perfect storm of conditions to get that speed, and that includes a download accelerator using 32 streams. I typically download at the 50-60 mark on downloads. Centurylink peering sucks, but hey---I can't complain for 65 a month, plus nobody in the house can slow me down with streaming and what not.

 

Whats the up on that plan?  I pay $60 a month for my 500/50..

 

Moving files you would most always be using SSDs.. And or to cache on your nas, etc... I move files between my pc and nas at 220MBps using smb3 multichannel... Drives are not the bottleneck, network is.. Which is why toying with 10ge.

 

 

Just now, BudMan said:

Whats the up on that plan?  I pay $60 a month for my 500/50..

 

Moving files you would most always be using SSDs.. And or to cache on your nas, etc... I move files between my pc and nas at 220MBps using smb3 multichannel... Drives are not the bottleneck, network is.. Which is why toying with 10ge.

 

 

Dunno...crazy price for sure, and most of my neighborhood cannot get it (which prevents saturation). No data cap (yet), no contract, and (allegedly) priced for life.

8 minutes ago, adrynalyne said:

typically download at the 50-60 mark on downloads

 

You typically get 50-60MB/s on downloads?

 

damn, it's like everything you download, even larger files, is barely any wait time. click, download starts, leave the room for a moment and come back and it's done.

 

p.s. it would be weird/kind of cool seeing your hard drive light flash rapidly, or be fairly solidly lit up, when downloading since even at 50MB/s burns up a good portion of a modern-ish hard drives transfer speed.

 

8 minutes ago, adrynalyne said:

but hey---I can't complain for 65 a month

 

This is basically what I talked about a bit earlier...

 

50-60MB/s for your typical downloads for $65 a month. to bad you could not divide that up proportionately as one could save a lot of $ if they could pay say $10-20 a month for a small fraction of that speed as it would be far more efficient use of ones $. because once you reach a certain level of speed, most things download quick enough to where it would be better just to get cheaper internet if possible.

While I love their AP... And the UDM and the Pro will sure have a market.. I wouldn't get one for my own use..  Looking to see what they come out with for wifi6 when it finalizes.. I will prob update my APs then.

UPDATE: Well I replaced the four capacitors with some brand new Panasonic FC 220uF 25V Low-ESR 105c capacitors in my Linksys WRT54GS v1.1 router on Feb 11th 2020 and all went smoothly (I even have six capacitors left since it was a 10-pack on Ebay for only $5.xx). but this time around I noticed if I add a little solder on the end of the soldering iron it seems to help with heat transfer and speeds things up a bit with removing the old caps and installing the new caps (like sort of alternate between each capacitors prongs with soldering iron heat with a little pressure to remove them going back and fourth until removed). I had to use some wire cutters to shorten the capacitor wires of the new Panasonic caps as I just eye-balled it sitting next to the caps I removed and made them a tiny bit longer and then cut the wires and after installing them (making sure they where seated into place well and the negative/positive was correct (as the negative end of all four caps point towards the front LED lights of the router)) and soldering it into place I then use the wire cutter to snip off the excess sticking out the back of the board and that was that.

 

I am using DD-WRT r41686 at the moment (FreshTomato likely is unstable on these older routers. so avoid it!). the router defaults to 216Mhz but I overclocked it to 240Mhz (through... 'Administration > Management' in the routers interface) as that's the highest I can go with passive cooling (i.e. stock cooling (which is without a heatsink)) as any higher, which the next setting up is 252Mhz, is unstable as the wireless acts up and the router reboots once every 5-10min or so (I heard with a heatsink one can use the 252Mhz setting though but I am not going to bother with it given 12Mhz increase is not worth my time). but when I tried the 240Mhz option chances are it's fine as I left the router running over 24 hours just sitting there and everything seemed to be in good running order. but at the moment I am still testing the ASUS WL-520gU router to see if it's stable (I currently have 5 days and 17 hours of uptime and counting(I am going to keep using it so see if I can get say 9-10 days or so and then just turn it off and switch to the Linksys WRT54GS v1.1 since it's a better router and use the ASUS as a backup router)) and I am confident it will be as I think the problem the entire time was FreshTomato as it's not really made for these older routers like DD-WRT is (I think it has to do with v2.4 vs v2.6 (FreshTomato is v2.6 only) as older Tomato firmware I was using years ago like Tomato Toastman is v2.4 firmware and that had no problems on my routers. so in other words... there is no real problem with FreshTomato besides the fact it's not really designed to work on these old routers where v2.4 is needed/required which likely explains it's stability problems on my ASUS/Linksys routers). still, replacing the caps on the Linksys with some new high quality ones should give me plenty of years of use out of it as the HERMEI ones that were in it are generic china made junk unlike the Panasonic which are made in Japan and are of solid quality.

 

but if anything changes ill probably update this topic again. but if my routers stay stable, which I suspect they will, then this will probably be my last post in regard to the general topic.

 

WARNING: be careful when overclocking routers like the Linksys WRT54GS v1.1 and the like as I think if you push the overclock too far it can brick the router and you might need JTAG to recover it (even then you will need a CFE file which you can get on your working router running DD-WRT by going to... http://192.168.1.1/backup/cfe.bin ). because in the routers interface on my WRT54GS it allows up to 300Mhz. basically you can choose between the following... 192Mhz/200Mhz/216Mhz(which is default)/228Mhz/240Mhz/252Mhz/264Mhz/280Mhz/300Mhz. but I would not attempt beyond 252Mhz, although 240Mhz or less should be safe enough. also, if I read up on this stuff correctly it seems some models even if the overclock freezes the router etc holding reset button can fix it but I think with some of these older models, and I think mine is one of them, if you go too high on the Mhz it can brick the router and JTag is pretty much your only way to recover it etc.

 

on a side note.... my ASUS WL-520gU router, while it runs at 240Mhz (which can't be changed), it seems the router only truly runs at 200Mhz given the "cat /proc/cpuinfo" command after you telnet into the router. I think it has something to do with keeping a accurate time on the router if I recall correctly. but this does not seem to be a issue on the WRT54GS as when it says 240Mhz, it's actually 240Mhz dedicated to it.

Edited by ThaCrip
5 hours ago, BudMan said:

It will take you years to move anything with G speeds, so that is a good thing I guess ;)

 

Not for general internet use (wired/wireless) which is about all I use it for anyways and in that regard it's proven reliable. I don't do too much file transferring over the router itself and what little bit I do here and there, it's fast enough over the wired connection.

 

in fact, routers similar to that Linksys one I have still sell pretty well as of July 2016 (which at the time those general types of routers were 11 years old)... https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/linksys-wrt56gl-router/

 

p.s. some corrections to my above post... instead of v2.4 and v2.6 I meant to say k24 and k26.

Edited by ThaCrip

Well have fun - I would just go insane..  It would be like trying to watch tv on a 13" black and white tube tv..

 

Here is your old router

oldtv.thumb.jpg.6f868cf0e4f915b5da6531bbdcd2482f.jpg

 

I wouldn't be able to stand even 100mbps wired..

 

This is a current router.

current-router.thumb.jpg.5ff5d13200e12d76a904898d838566e3.jpg

 

@BudMan

 

That's a bit of a exaggeration as going from a recent-ish TV to a old 13" black and white is a MUCH larger hit than going from a fairly modern router back to a Wireless G one (at least as far as general internet use goes which is what I would assume your typical person would measure the basic stuff by). because it's pretty obvious in terms of real world general internet use, a Wireless G router is still decent enough for many where as a 13" black and white TV is a MAJOR drop off compare to any decent TV's over the last 10-15 years or so.

 

but if 100mbps is too slow for you, your flat out spoiled, as that's like around 12.5MB/s, correct? ; because with that speed it's not going to handicap the vast majority of people online as it's more than fast enough to do just about anything within a reasonable time frame. because like I said before.... once someone's internet reaches a certain level of speed, even when you jack up the speed quite a bit there is not a lot of real world difference in time savings. like for example... going from my 400KB/s-ish to even 2-5MB/s would be a much larger real world boost then going from say 5MB/s to 10MB/s or more as in terms of download times once you hit a certain level of speed, to shave off much from download times you need A LOT more speed and it's largely overkill at that point to where I would rather keep monthly internet costs down, if possible, then pay extra $ for speed that's not much of a real world benefit.

Gig is not spoiled... Dude your living in the dark ages..  100mbps is about 10MBps in a file copy - its like watching paint try compared to gig which is 113MBps..

 

Real world benefit - 400Kbps you might as well be on dial up... That is not a usable connection for anything then shell type access... How freaking long does it take you to even load the neowin home page... Glad your happy with stone knives and bear skins... ;)

 

 

Most of the media files I work with are 3GB plus in size.. At 10MBps it would take Days to moves what I move in minutes now.. 1 gig is even too slow to be honest, which is why I use smb3 multichannel over 2x1G connection to get 220MBps file moves..

 

Last couple days been working on some files, about 70% done 73GB of files moved from my PC to my nas... Couldn't even think about doing that at 100mbps - just not viable... It would be horrible!! 

 

I'm shrinking some 500GB+ worth of files to be around only 100GB, So that is moving 500GB of data to my pc from nas, transcoding it and then putting it back.. How could anyone do that at 100mbps network speeds? Without wanting to shoot themselves?

 

Oh just dawned on my that tiny 8 second youtube clip prob take 10 minutes to buffer on your system ;)

@BudMan

 

I see. since you seem to do a lot of moving of files between computers (and the like), in this case I can see having something MUCH faster than what I got as you would have to as it would not be practical to move large amounts of data over 10MB/s LAN, especially if you had to do it fairly often. so I am not faulting you here as I was mainly talking about general internet speed and in that regard a Wireless G router is still passable for most people even if not optimal simply because the speed it does give a person is clearly higher than one needs to have a enjoyable enough experience online as when you get into the MB/s range (say something in the ball park of 2-5MB/s) your internet is far from slow in the real world. NOTE: I guess if you got multiple people hammering a internet line at once then one will want more speed but even here there must become a point to where it's good enough even for these types of people and I would assume anything close to 10MB/s is probably sufficient.

 

also, I don't have '400kbps'(i.e. about 50KB/s), it's 400KB/s (i.e. 0.4MB/s), which is a rather big difference since it's about 8 times faster and when your at slower speeds it makes a rather large difference in real world speed. so while not fast, it's not THAT bad either. put it this way... someone can get by with my connection (especially as long as multiple people ain't using it downloading larger files) as general websites, while they don't load up super fast initially(even when browser cache is cleared, while there is some delay in load times, it's not like I am sitting there forever either), load up fast enough in general as it's not like your sitting there for ages for a page to load. with YouTube I generally just play SD stuff and in that regard it works well enough. I might load up a HD YouTube video here and there though. so while I agree my internet could be faster, it's not dead slow either as it's still at a point that loading websites is fast enough and YouTube works well enough, especially for SD files. but like I was saying... if you got multiple people trying to watch YouTube etc, then it could be a problem but since I am pretty much the only one who downloads any larger files on it, it's generally not a issue as outside of that as others might do a bit of basic website browsing and a small video once in a while.

 

p.s. but as far as loading Neowin, from a cleared cached browser(so everything has to load online not from browser cache)... I would not imagine more than 5 seconds or so off the top of my head. because what's the typical size of the average website? ; probably no more than a few MB off the top of my head? ; if so that's like 7-8 seconds tops for a page to load from scratch for the initial load but in the future it will be faster due to browser cache. I realize for someone with a pretty fast line there would be only a small delay on initial page load but it's not like going from say a 2-3 seconds for say a fast line to a half of minute or something as that would get fairly annoying. but I don't mind a reasonable pause of say around 10 seconds.

37 minutes ago, ThaCrip said:

also, I don't have '400kbps'(i.e. about 50KB/s), it's 400KB/s (i.e. 0.4MB/s),

Dude why do you keep using B... That is Bytes... Nobody states speed in Bytes... Its bits... 400KBps would 3.2Mbits per second.

 

You would not state your speed as 0.4MBps 

 

So what speed do you have exactly?  Post a screenshot of speed test so we are clear what speed your on..

 

example here is mine

speedtest.thumb.png.384eb18d9c615feb91d1f647f345030b.png

 

So lets see your actual speed..

20 hours ago, ThaCrip said:

@BudMan

 

That's a bit of a exaggeration as going from a recent-ish TV to a old 13" black and white is a MUCH larger hit than going from a fairly modern router back to a Wireless G one (at least as far as general internet use goes which is what I would assume your typical person would measure the basic stuff by). because it's pretty obvious in terms of real world general internet use, a Wireless G router is still decent enough for many where as a 13" black and white TV is a MAJOR drop off compare to any decent TV's over the last 10-15 years or so.

 

 

Not really...but if you don't see it then you don't see it.  

 

Quote

but if 100mbps is too slow for you, your flat out spoiled, as that's like around 12.5MB/s, correct? ; because with that speed it's not going to handicap the vast majority of people online as it's more than fast enough to do just about anything within a reasonable time frame. because like I said before.... once someone's internet reaches a certain level of speed, even when you jack up the speed quite a bit there is not a lot of real world difference in time savings. like for example... going from my 400KB/s-ish to even 2-5MB/s would be a much larger real world boost then going from say 5MB/s to 10MB/s or more as in terms of download times once you hit a certain level of speed, to shave off much from download times you need A LOT more speed and it's largely overkill at that point to where I would rather keep monthly internet costs down, if possible, then pay extra $ for speed that's not much of a real world benefit.

When you are streaming 4k to multiple devices (6+) you kind of need some really high speed stuff and your router has to be able to process that speed, not just be able to support it.  If you are doing massive downloads, you will see it.  If all you are doing is browsing sites, you won't see it.  If youtube downgrades the video quality to your internet speed capabilities, which it does, you might not notice it especially if you can't see the difference between standard definition to HD to UHD.  

 

FWIW, my monthly download usage is over 1000GB, I am at 1.5TB per month about.  Imagine doing that on anything under 100Mb/s.

On 2/8/2020 at 10:41 PM, ThaCrip said:

 

Even if I had a moderately fast connection, say several MB/s, I could still not see $100-200+ for a router as that's approaching desktop computer prices and the like when one could get something fast enough at likely half of that price or less.

IDS/IPS require some pretty hefty processing power if you want to maintain your advertised connection. My old USG could only pull down 100mbit on my 1gig connection with IPS enabled. You get what you pay for when it comes to network performance with protections. I'm now back on pfsense with Suricata and happy with 1gig speeds.

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If your passkey was saved only on one phone, computer, or security key, and you lose that device, then you may not have your half of the necklace anymore. In that case, you would usually need to use the website’s backup login or account recovery options. A lot of websites that support passkeys still let you fall back to your regular password. So if you lose access to your passkey, the site may still let you log in with your password, a code sent to your email, a text message, a recovery code, or some other account recovery process. That is convenient, but it is also important to understand: if the website still allows password login, then your password still matters. Passkeys are safer than passwords, but if your account still has a password as a backup, you should still use a strong, unique password and turn on two-factor authentication if the website offers it. This is why it is a good idea to have more than one safe way back into important accounts. For example, you might keep your passkey in a syncing password manager, add a second trusted device, save recovery codes somewhere safe, or set up a backup security key. A passkey is very secure, but just like a real key, you need a backup plan in case you lose access to it. Now, you might ask: “What stops a hacker from copying my half of the necklace?” That’s the important part: your half is protected. It is not something you type in, and it is not something the website gets to keep. Think of your half as being locked inside a tiny safe on your phone, computer, security key, or password manager. That safe only opens when you approve it with your fingerprint, face, PIN, or device password. When you log in, the website does not need to see your half. It only needs proof that your half matches its half. Your actual half is not handed over to the website. This is different from a password. With a password, you type the secret into the website. If you type it into a fake website, the hacker now has it. With a passkey, you are not typing your secret into the website. Your device is proving you have the matching half without giving the half away. That also helps protect you from fake websites. If someone makes a fake login page that looks like the real site, your device can tell it is not the real match. It will not use your passkey there. Now, could someone use your passkey if they stole your device, got into your password manager, or somehow unlocked the safe that holds your half? Yes, that is why your device password, PIN, fingerprint, face unlock, and password manager security still matter. But a hacker cannot just steal your passkey from the website or trick you into typing it into a fake page like they can with a password. That is why passkeys are safer than passwords. The two matching pieces have to come together, like two lovebirds who were once separated and are finally reunited.
    • Newegg offers insane combo deal on Amazon Prime Day 2026 that beats Steam Machine by Sayan Sen Building a PC is undoubtedly difficult nowadays but with this epic combo deal, Newegg is trying to make it as easy for you as it is possible. If you are making a new one or even upgrading an old system to a new Windows 11 device, this combo bundle is truly unmissable as you get AMD's Ryzen 9800X3D, a compatible X870 motherboard, a 240mm AIO liquid cooler and finally a Samsung 990 PRO SSD all for under $1000 (purchase link under the specs table down below). This should beat out the newly launched Steam Machine from Valve in terms of performance and performance per dollar especially if you are willing to set Linux up on it. Essentially with this combo you will get the AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 8-core 3D V cache CPU, Samsung's 990 PRO 2TB NVMe SSD, the MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX Motherboard, and finally the Cooler Master Elite Liquid 240. Thanks to that massive vertically stacked L3 cache, the X3D desktop processors, including the 9800X3D, also come with the benefit of not needing fast memory. Even DDR5-5600 should be plenty for it. The technical specifications of the Ryzen 7 9800X3D are given in the table below: Specification Value Architecture Zen 5 Cores / Threads 8 / 16 Base Clock 4.7 GHz Max Boost Clock Up to 5.2 GHz L1 Cache 640 KB L2 Cache 8 MB L3 Cache 96 MB Total Cache 104 MB CPU Core Process TSMC 4nm FinFET I/O Die Process TSMC 6nm FinFET Socket AM5 Default TDP 120W Max Temperature (Tjmax) 95°C Thermal Solution Not included Memory Type DDR5 Max Capacity 256 GB Memory Speeds 2x1R: DDR5-5600 2x2R: DDR5-5600 4x1R: DDR5-3600 4x2R: DDR5-3600 PCIe Version PCIe 5.0 PCIe Lanes (Total/Usable) 28 / 24 USB 3.2 Gen 2 (10Gbps) 4 USB 2.0 1 Graphics Cores 2 CU RDNA 2 Frequency 2200 MHz DisplayPort over USB-C Yes Overclocking Unlocked Up next we have the tech specs for the MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI Motherboard: Specification Value Chipset AMD X870 CPU Support AMD Ryzen 9000 / 8000 / 7000 Series Desktop Processors Socket AM5 Memory Slots 4 × DDR5 UDIMM Maximum Memory Capacity 256GB Memory Support DDR5 8400–5600 MT/s (OC), DDR5 5600–4800 MT/s (JEDEC) Integrated Graphics Outputs 1 × HDMI 2.1 FRL (up to 8K 60Hz) 2 × USB4 Type-C with DisplayPort 1.4 HBR3 (up to 4K 60Hz) Expansion Slots PCI_E1: PCIe 5.0 x16 (CPU) PCI_E2: PCIe 3.0 x1 (Chipset) PCI_E3: PCIe 4.0 x4 (Chipset) Audio Realtek ALC4080 Codec 7.1-Channel USB High Performance Audio Supports up to 32-bit/384kHz playback on front panel S/PDIF output M.2 Slots 4 × M.2 M2_1: PCIe 5.0 x4 (CPU, 22110/2280) M2_2: PCIe 5.0 x4 (CPU, 2280/2260) M2_3: PCIe 4.0 x2 (Chipset, 2280/2260) M2_4: PCIe 4.0 x4 (Chipset, 2280/2260) SATA Ports 4 × SATA 6Gb/s RAID Support RAID 0, 1, 5, 10 for M.2 NVMe storage devices Rear USB Ports 4 × USB 2.0 3 × USB 5Gbps Type-A 2 × USB 10Gbps Type-A 1 × USB 10Gbps Type-C 2 × USB4 40Gbps Type-C Front USB Headers 4 × USB 2.0 4 × USB 5Gbps Type-A 1 × USB 20Gbps Type-C LAN Realtek 8126-CG 5G LAN Wireless Wi-Fi 7 (M.2 Key-E module pre-installed) Supports 2.4GHz / 5GHz / 6GHz bands Up to 5.8Gbps Supports 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac/ax/be Bluetooth Bluetooth 5.4, MLO, 4KQAM Internal Power Connectors 1 × 24-pin ATX Power 2 × CPU Power Connectors 1 × PCIe 8-pin Power Connector Fan Headers 1 × CPU Fan 1 × Combo Fan (Pump/System) 6 × System Fan RGB Headers 3 × Addressable V2 RGB (JARGB_V2) 1 × RGB LED (JRGB) Other Internal Headers 1 × EZ Conn-header 2 × Front Panel Headers 1 × Chassis Intrusion 1 × Front Audio 1 × TPM 2.0 Header Debug Features 4 × EZ Debug LEDs 1 × EZ Digit Debug LED Rear I/O Ports Clear CMOS Button Flash BIOS Button HDMI 2 × USB 40Gbps Type-C 1 × USB 10Gbps Type-C 4 × USB 10Gbps Type-A 3 × USB 5Gbps Type-A 4 × USB 2.0 5G LAN Port Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Antenna Connectors Audio Connectors Form Factor ATX The Samsung 990 PRO is a PCIe Gen4 NVMe SSD and still one of the fastest drives available today for under $500. Speaking of fast, sequential reads and writes are rated at 7450 MB/s and 6900 MB/s, respectively. The random throughputs for reads and writes are 1400K IOPS and 1550K IOPS, respectively. The 990 PRO is based on Samsung's 7th Gen V-NAND flash, and it too is TLC. It packs 2 gigs of LPDDR4 DRAM cache, which helps the random performance. The endurance rating for this is 1200 TBW (terabytes written), which should be sufficient for most users. The Samsung 990 PRO is compatible with the PlayStation 5, but if you are going to use the 990 PRO on a PC, check out the Samsung Magician app that lets you track your drive's health, update its firmware, customize various settings, and more. The tech specs are given below: Specification Value Interface PCIe Gen 4.0 x4, NVMe 2.0 Form Factor M.2 2280 Controller Samsung In-house Controller NAND Flash 3D TLC DRAM Cache 2GB LPDDR4 Sequential Read (Max) 7,450 MB/s Sequential Write (Max) 6,900 MB/s Random Read (4K) Up to 1,400,000 IOPS Random Write (4K) Up to 1,550,000 IOPS TBW (Endurance) 1,200 TBW MTBF 1,500,000 hours Operating Temperature 0°C to 70°C Storage Temperature -40°C to 85°C Shock Resistance 1,500G / 0.5ms Heatsink No Get the combo deal at this link: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D, Samsung 990 PRO 2TB, MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI motherboard, Cooler Master Elite Liquid 240: $784.99 + $25 off with promo code FTTF77: $759.99 (Sold and Shipped by Newegg US) Good to know This Newegg deal is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. Become a Prime member (for Students or SNAP) via Neowin Get Prime Access - Prime for half price (for qualifying Medicaid, EBT, SNAP) Subscribe to Prime Video, Audible Plus, Music Unlimited or Kindle Unlimited via Neowin As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
    • I heard from a lot of people that driver support for the latest games when RDNA first came out (Radeon 5000 series) was pretty bad, but if you didn't buy the card on day one, or were not trying to play the latest titles, then you were isolated from that issue. Other than that, it's been good and only getting better.
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