To build or buy a new PC? [UK]*


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* The only reason i put UK in the title is because, surprise-surprise, that's where i'm from. So any 'you could buy this' links that are in foreign currency ... i couldn't.

I generally use https://www.ebuyer.com/ and https://www.scan.co.uk/ to source anything PC related. Mainly eBuyer although if any UK people know of other/better sites (no, not eBay) then feel free to suggest.

 

Back in 2010 i was coming off an ancient PC which took about 1 week to boot WinXP so i decided to build my own PC with the view of it lasting 10 years the same way that old slow machine had done. I did this for 3 reasons - 1) No preloaded crap 2) To build it to the spec i wanted, so it'd be as fast as i wanted and 3) the main reason - to simply build. I'd always wanted to have a go at building my own.

 

Now as we come towards 2020 i learn that Windows 7 support is about to end. Whether it's tomorrow or next year, sooner or later i'll end up on Windows 10 so i was thinking it could be time to buy or build a PC that is more powerful than the one i have as for some tasks my PC is actually quite slow.

I'm no hardcore gamer btw and in fact i have little to no time to play games these days, although that's not to rule out the possibility that i may.

 

 

When i built my PC back in 2010 i'm sure i spent somewhere around £1100-£1300. Looking now, you can pick up a pre-built thing for pretty cheap. https://www.ebuyer.com/store/Computer/cat/Desktop-PC and for a bit more you can get something under their gaming heading https://www.ebuyer.com/store/Computer/cat/Desktop-PC/subcat/Gaming-PC. So for anyone who's averse to clicking links - for no more than £400 you can pick up something already more powerful than what i have.

 

Speaking of which. Current specs:

 

CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1055T 2.80GHz

RAM: 16GB Corsair

Drives: Samsung SSD 830 (primary) 256GB with Windows 7 64bit Pro on as primary. A number of other HDDs as well as a 2TB Seagate SSHD.

GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 460 1GB

PSU: BeQuiet 530W, Model No: BQT L7-530W

 

If i build then i'll end up spending more than this £300-£500 area, even to build the same spec of what is in the £300-£500 zone really which makes me wonder - is it worth me building or just buying?

 

If you need more info from me to give feedback then feel free to ask and i'll answer as best i can :)

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What sort of tasks do you use the computer for at the moment? You say you don't want to rule out playing games, but realistically you need to decide, do you want it to be able to play games or not? If yes, what type of games? None of the £400 ones you linked to will be able to run any modern games at playable framerates because they have integrated graphics (or a very poor APU), also these pre-builts will have the absolute cheapest PSUs/Mobos so even if you decided you want to add a dedicated GPU in the future, you might not be able to. The cheapest one with on the pages you listed with a usable GPU (GTX 1650) is the Cyberpower and that's £520. 

 

If you potentially want to play games, I'd build it yourself, then even if you don't add a GPU now, you know you can in the future. If you're not bothered about games at all and just want something a little bit faster than what you currently have going for a cheap pre-built would probably be fine.

Edited by ZakO

I won't go into too much detail but on the matter of building it yourself or buying one that's already built.  Why not go with option 3 and go with a shop that will build what you want for you?   Because my time was limited what I did for my new gaming PC was buy all the parts myself online but then took them to a shop in town and had them put it together for me.  

 

Right now though lots of online tech shops have their own "build it yourself" option, pick the parts you want and they'll do all the work and ship it out to you.  

Well, here is a DIY gaming PC for <£500

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor  (£118.97 @ CCL Computers) 
Motherboard: *ASRock B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard  (£79.85 @ CCL Computers) 
Memory: *Patriot Viper 4 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (£38.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Storage: *Toshiba OCZ TR200 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (£45.83 @ CCL Computers) 
Video Card: *Sapphire Radeon RX 570 4 GB NITRO+ Video Card  (£129.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Case: *Aerocool Cylon ATX Mid Tower Case  (£32.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Power Supply: *Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  (£52.99 @ AWD-IT) 
Total: £499.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-25 13:22 BST+0100

If i'm honest there's a lot of upsides to buying a pre-made PC. I've done it in the past due to lack of time. There are some builders out there like CyberPowerPC, novatech etc where you can select specifically the parts you want, and you'll also get the warranty on it too. Often it doesn't come out massively over what you'd pay for the parts.

 

My recommendation would be to buy one without the OS. You can just purchase a Win10 licence from ebay for £10 or whatever and save yourself a bunch of cash that way too. Get the prebuilt PC and then just load Windows on it yourself when you get it, so you know you'll have a nice clean OS and is sort of a nice middle ground.

 

Obviously from a 'PC Master Race' standpoint people will tell you you're a fool for not building it entirely yourself. If you can get a good deal on a pre-built, do it.  Hotukdeals sometimes has good deals crop up. And often with vendors like CyberPowerPc you can spec your machine up and then call them and fairly easily be offered an extra 5% off.  If you're veering that way anyway and you're happy with the price, do it. What matters at the end of the day is you end up with a machine you're happy with and can play the games you want to play on it.

 

Just a couple of very quick searches shows some good deals for ~500

 

https://www.cclonline.com/pc/specialist-gaming-pcs/pba/ccl-stryker-gaming-pc/0300010105000200050000010203/?siteID=hL3Qp0zRBOc-1X8u53NiLFBdtOL494hT7Q

 

https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/mid-range-gaming-pc-3277630

4 minutes ago, CronchyNut said:

If i'm honest there's a lot of upsides to buying a pre-made PC. I've done it in the past due to lack of time. There are some builders out there like CyberPowerPC, novatech etc where you can select specifically the parts you want, and you'll also get the warranty on it too. Often it doesn't come out massively over what you'd pay for the parts.

 

My recommendation would be to buy one without the OS. You can just purchase a Win10 licence from ebay for £10 or whatever and save yourself a bunch of cash that way too. Get the prebuilt PC and then just load Windows on it yourself when you get it, so you know you'll have a nice clean OS and is sort of a nice middle ground.

 

Obviously from a 'PC Master Race' standpoint people will tell you you're a fool for not building it entirely yourself. If you can get a good deal on a pre-built, do it.  Hotukdeals sometimes has good deals crop up. And often with vendors like CyberPowerPc you can spec your machine up and then call them and fairly easily be offered an extra 5% off.  If you're veering that way anyway and you're happy with the price, do it. What matters at the end of the day is you end up with a machine you're happy with and can play the games you want to play on it.

CyberPower doesn't sell systems for 500 pounds, though...

24 minutes ago, CronchyNut said:

My recommendation would be to buy one without the OS. You can just purchase a Win10 licence from ebay for £10 or whatever and save yourself a bunch of cash that way too. Get the prebuilt PC and then just load Windows on it yourself when you get it, so you know you'll have a nice clean OS and is sort of a nice middle ground.

lolll

1 hour ago, Mockingbird said:

Well, here is a DIY gaming PC for <£500

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor  (£118.97 @ CCL Computers) 
Motherboard: *ASRock B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard  (£79.85 @ CCL Computers) 
Memory: *Patriot Viper 4 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (£38.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Storage: *Toshiba OCZ TR200 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (£45.83 @ CCL Computers) 
Video Card: *Sapphire Radeon RX 570 4 GB NITRO+ Video Card  (£129.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Case: *Aerocool Cylon ATX Mid Tower Case  (£32.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Power Supply: *Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  (£52.99 @ AWD-IT) 
Total: £499.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-25 13:22 BST+0100

Unless he wants new .. everything ... he already has the case, PSU and storage.  So you could just buy a new mobo, CPU, memory and GPU.  Not purchasing a new case, PSU or a new SSD could open him up to a 1660ti which would be superior to the 570, 580 or 590.

 

So, something along the lines of what you suggested ... the

Ryzen 2600

ASrock B450

8GB of memory

1660ti

reuse current PSU, Case, Storage ...

... should put him right at or below £500 with the option of updating various components down the line (for example buying a nvme SSD for the OS or whatever).

 

Just my humble suggestion.  :) 

  • Thanks 1
49 minutes ago, Jim K said:

Unless he wants new .. everything ... he already has the case, PSU and storage.  So you could just buy a new mobo, CPU, memory and GPU.  Not purchasing a new case, PSU or a new SSD could open him up to a 1660ti which would be superior to the 570, 580 or 590.

 

So, something along the lines of what you suggested ... the

Ryzen 2600

ASrock B450

8GB of memory

1660ti

reuse current PSU, Case, Storage ...

... should put him right at or below £500 with the option of updating various components down the line (for example buying a nvme SSD for the OS or whatever).

 

Just my humble suggestion.  :) 

Well, I was trying to an apples to apples comparison because he was talking about whether to buy or build a PC.

 

That said, you are absolutely right that he can reuse his storage, PSU, and case.

7 hours ago, Jim K said:

Unless he wants new .. everything ... he already has the case, PSU and storage.  So you could just buy a new mobo, CPU, memory and GPU.  Not purchasing a new case, PSU or a new SSD could open him up to a 1660ti which would be superior to the 570, 580 or 590.

 

First off thanks to everyone for the replies.

 

Secondly, i don't like to answer questions like "what do you use it for". No offence. If i mention what i 99% use it for then you will spec me the most budget machine known to man. It's like my car for example - i use it to get from A to B like most people do, so why don't i own the cheapest most economical thing ever? Because it'd be slow as sh@# and i'm quite happy spending a bit extra for that better acceleration from a standstill and from 40/50 upwards even. I wouldn't be happy with something snail pace even though it'd still get me from A-B.

 

Third - Jim K you raise a very good point and it's not one that i've decided on because this is an early days kind of idea. Before Budman comes and quotes me from a few months back where i can't afford and don't like to spend .... i know i know. But i think a lot. Often my thinking will come to nothing. I've thought about a new car for years but have the same one i bought 10 years ago. I've thought of a new sound system - but haven't spent (yet), so on & so forth. I just think....a lot and like to look at my options. Some times i go ahead, many times i don't :)

But anyway Jim, i don't actually know what i'd do there. On the one hand i'm the type of guy to just say F it and buy everything new. Total new start. Equally you raise a good point - there's nothing wrong with my case. My case cost about £150 originally.

The PSU i wonder - i wonder if it'd be better buying new, whether it'd offer me anything over this one, whether it'd be an idea to renew after 10 years, i don't know.

Regards storage, as far as the SSD goes i'd be buying a new one as main - 512GB likely. The other drives would remain the same...possibly. I'm still building this media library so that one could very well change.

20 minutes ago, Technique said:

No offence. If i mention what i 99% use it for then you will spec me the most budget machine known to man.

Okay. But if the only thing you do is surf the internet, watch some youtube videos, and check emails then you don't need a middle to high end graphics card and a lot of memory or storage space.

 

People ask that question so they can tailor a build to your needs.

 

And also keep in mind that you're wasting peoples time that are trying to help you by sending them out to research a pc that you might not have a use for.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, trag3dy said:

Okay. But if the only thing you do is surf the internet, watch some youtube videos, and check emails then you don't need a middle to high end graphics card and a lot of memory or storage space.

 

People ask that question so they can tailor a build to your needs.

 

And also keep in mind that you're wasting peoples time that are trying to help you by sending them out to research a pc that you might not have a use for.

I disagree.

 

What i would like and what i need are two completely different things.

Like with the car for example. Nobody 'needs' a fast car, they want it. If you need a car to get from A-B then the cheapest option does the job right because the speed limit is the speed limit right?

My TV for another example. In the end i went for 58". I didn't need a 58" TV that cost me about £1100-£1200 off the top of my head. I could've saved myself close to £1000 and still got a reasonable sized TV which would've still allowed me to watch things on. I went for the one i went for because that was the one i wanted. Would a £300 40" TV have covered what i needed - to watch TV, DVDs, play consoles on etc? Of course it would've. I didn't want that though. Sure i went overkill for my needs but so what? I don't drink, i don't smoke, i can afford to spend it where i want to spend it.

 

Also, i am not 'sending out' anyone. I am grateful for anyone who spends the time doing that of course, but i am sending nobody out. It is a general question. Building and buying a similar spec PC, from peoples experiences, which is better/cheaper/advisable. I'm asking those with years of experience in this to comment on which approach they'd recommend, not to actually build me a PC. That will come later when i get round to it.

 

Most of my use is emails, browsing, YouTube watching sure. So you'll now tell me i don't need a graphics card but like i said i don't need a 58" TV either. I'm also currently using Handbrake to save on storage space with the movies i'm ripping and my current CPU is struggling with it ... that's one task beyond the standard emails and browsing. I also said i wont rule out playing games on the PC. You ask what games, well i don't know. I didn't know when i built my existing PC, i just bought a graphics card that at the time was supposed to handle a good amount of games that were out there at that point, so that if i decided to buy something then my PC could run it.

 

 

10 hours ago, trag3dy said:

Okay. Well. Good luck. Hope you get help with the problem you have without telling anyone what it actually is.

With the problem i have? What problem do i have?

 

I came here to see what is recommended when it comes to replacing this PC with another - build or buy. The first PC i mentioned lasted 10 years before it really did need replacing. The existing one has lasted very nearly 10 years. It doesn't 'need' replacing but i'm considering it. It would therefore make sense that i am looking for another '10 year PC' with an all round reasonable specification. Not to carry out the most demanding tasks ever but something that can handle beyond your standard emails and youtube videos for 'in case....' purposes like i did when i built this PC.

 

I don't know what it is you think i'm looking for. I think you perhaps assume i want someone to go out, spec it, buy it & build it for me which clearly is not the case.

 

Speaking of which i forgot to address that point yesterday .... someone mentioned websites that'll build it for you. I'm not convinced by those. Sounds good but you buy 10 parts for £XYZ. You get them home and build it at no extra cost. Alternatively you buy the same 10 parts for the same £XYZ but now you also pay £ABC on top of that for someone to put it together for you & send it out. If i built my own then i know i'd be asking questions to double check. I remember doing this last time - does this plug go there, do i put that there (ok i didn't ask this for everything but i did for some things) but at least it wouldn't cost me any extra. Basically i'm just saying that if i chose to build then my preference would be for me to build it & not someone else.

When you build you should not build for "today" and by that I mean don't build a system that you are already looking to upgrade give it a X year lifecycle.  When you buy prebuilt look for a deal they are out there, usually around back to school times. Why not consider a 3rd option which is buying a slightly used one that someone built and now needs the cash more than the system.

I'd say at this price bracket, built it as OEMs often cheap out on some really important stuff like the Mobo and PSU.

 

Sure you could pull the PSU and use the same case, but with more modern niceties like dust filters on the case and the fact I wouldn't want to trust a 10 year old PSU with new hardware, might as well start from scratch.

 

You usually have to go higher end to find quality components across the board on a pre-built.

To build or not to build.

 

For most people around here, the enthusiasts, assembling a PC is a passion, a hobby.

 

No body can tell you what to do or what not to do with your life, especially after that Marketing 101 lecture on needs vs wants that you delivered. You seem to have your mind set already.

 

If you want to build a PC yourself, go ahead and do it.

 

If you'd rather someone else does it for you, there you go.

4 hours ago, DoctorD said:

When you build you should not build for "today" and by that I mean don't build a system that you are already looking to upgrade give it a X year lifecycle.  When you buy prebuilt look for a deal they are out there, usually around back to school times. Why not consider a 3rd option which is buying a slightly used one that someone built and now needs the cash more than the system.

I think a 10 year timeframe is reasonable but i also appreciate what you're saying. Reasonable to who and for what?

For someone who has high demands from a PC who actually does need the highest of high specs from what is available this year is unlikely to be looking at a 10 year cycle the way that i am.

 

You do raise a very good point and it's one that i've been seriously considering - the part i put in bold. I've been looking on Facebook Marketplace and providing nobody is trying to con anyone (always a risk in the 2nd hand market) then there are some awesome bargains to be had. Some seriously spec'd machines for good money. I don't have a burning desire to build the next PC as i've already ticked that off my to-do list. Not that i'd never do it again but last time round i wanted to do it just to say i'd done it, just to experience it.

So yeah, providing there's nothing wrong with these machines and nobody is trying to swindle me then there's some good deals on Marketplace.

2 hours ago, Peresvet said:

 

No body can tell you what to do or what not to do with your life,

Agreed, just the way nobody is here asking for people to tell me what to do with my life either. This is why the thread is coming from the angle of i'd go the buy it route because of ABC and someone else says well i'd go the build it route because of XYZ. You as an individual then look at the points put across and go yeah that guy has a point so does that guy, i hadn't thought of that so you know what i'm going to opt for that option.

 

 

 

EDIT: Damn, that's my 2,346th post. I didn't notice i was on 2,345 posts 😅

18 hours ago, Technique said:

Before Budman comes and quotes me from a few months back where i can't afford and don't like to spend

heheehe - dude made me laugh... But atleast you know it ;)  You have to be one of the most cheap SOBs around here ;)  You dream of champagne, but don't want to even spend the money on champagne of beer (miller high life)...

 

The overall topic to build or buy off the shelf can be a difficult one to be sure... Back in the day it was easier, you could actually build something better for same or cheaper cost.. But to be honest I just went recently looked into this a bit for my own needs.  And to be honest you as long as your not too picky you can for sure find something online that you can customize a bit that is cheaper then buying everything yourself, then putting it together and or having someone do it for you that will most likely do everything you want and more.

 

Where you run into problem is you want this specific "thing" then this "specific" feature then yeah that can get difficult finding off the shelf type of box that meets your price and your needs.. Like when you buy a car, maybe you only want X, but X only comes when you get option package ABC... so it also comes with Y and Z... Which you do not want really - but if you want X its going to cost you more then just X, etc.

 

Upgrading your rig, ie reuse case, reuse power supply - sure can save you money.. But if its too long in the tooth, prob not going to work anyway, etc.  A new case and or power supply are normally not the big ticket items anyway.. And really not going to change the price all that much in the big picture.

 

What I would suggest is list the things that you MUST have!  Then try and find a prebuilt system that has that.. If you can not find it - or at a price point your happy with... Then price out the parts to build your rig.. Is it still in your budget - then you have your answer.  Is it cheaper then the prebuilt?  Etc.. nobody can really tell you build is better than built since everyone has different needs and wants in their pc... There is no right or wrong answer to this question...

 

My main box is getting pretty long in the tooth, and my video card died on me... Was stuck using the built in video (single monitor)... It was a few days of HELL ;)  went back and forth - just get a new freaking rig or get replacement video card.. In the end just went with a 45$ video card that will allow me to use my existing monitors... And put off the new rig for a bit.. Not like it doesn't do what I want it to do.. And does it very quickly, etc.   But really if going to build a new rig with video card better suited for transcoding - bit pricey ;)  All the new video cards use display port, etc.  Which would mean I would get new monitors ;)  heheh  Sure I could get adapters - but hey if the new video card can do 4k.. Why not get couple of new monitors as well, etc.

 

So yeah your question can be difficult..  Good luck on your search.  But dude in the end your going to have to spend some money ;)

 

edit:  While your searching for the new perfect rig... Make sure to research how the video card does with transcoding via the gpu, etc. Since your also playing with plex - your going to want a video card that can transcode FAST.. especially if you want to do x265 at some point to save space, etc... I ended up being pretty happy with my $45 video card since it can transcode to 264 way faster then my cpu, and my old video card didn't support any gpu transcoding.  Can't do 265 - but what do you want for $45 ;)

1 hour ago, BudMan said:

My main box is getting pretty long in the tooth, and my video card died on me... Was stuck using the built in video (single monitor)... It was a few days of HELL ;)  went back and forth - just get a new freaking rig or get replacement video card.. In the end just went with a 45$ video card that will allow me to use my existing monitors... And put off the new rig for a bit.. Not like it doesn't do what I want it to do.. And does it very quickly, etc.   But really if going to build a new rig with video card better suited for transcoding - bit pricey ;)  All the new video cards use display port, etc.  Which would mean I would get new monitors ;)  heheh  Sure I could get adapters - but hey if the new video card can do 4k.. Why not get couple of new monitors as well, etc.

And your wife would kill you... :laugh:

Yeah would of gotten the crazy long eye roll for sure... But I did plant the seed that its not going to be long.. When I told here how old the machine was..  Hey let me try this card to see if it fixes it, but if not - prob just best to buy a new one with old it is, etc ;)  Might be the mother board that is bad, if the video card doesn't work - hehehe

 

Maybe a xmas gift for myself?  Would be slick to say transcode a 2 hour movie to x265 in less than 15 minutes ;)

5 hours ago, BudMan said:

So yeah your question can be difficult..  Good luck on your search.  But dude in the end your going to have to spend some money ;)

 

I'm strange, i know. I know i'm as tight as a ducks arse but then one day i'll blow a load on nothing. Crazy, stupid, whatever.

I have an interest in cars but that's an area i'm not comfortable spending in too much - simply because with a car, any d'head out there can ruin what you worked hard for. They can ram you from behind, hit you head on, smash the crap out of your wing mirror (as happened to me a few weeks ago) or you can come back to your car after having parked in a car park & best case scenario is you have a scrape, worst case is your door/bonnet/bumper etc is totally folded in. I see it on a local FB group i'm on - "any witnesses at such & such a location on such & such a date/time .... someone has hit my car and not left their details".

 

On the one hand you have the argument of don't let others dictate to you, if you want it then have it.

Personally i don't like to spend too much in areas where outsiders can ruin what i worked for ... because i have a very short fuse.

 

Instead i prefer to spend where the only person who can F-up the goods is myself (or my wife). That's why i spent more than i needed to on the TV. It's why i went overkill with the PC i built at the time. It's why i get a market leading mobile phone (& then keep it until it dies - still on my iPhone 6S which i bought on its release date).

 

So i do spend, just in certain areas and at certain times after much weighing up the +/-. I'm not an impulsive purchaser. If i'm still thinking about it months down the line then i tend to buy it but i give myself the time to discuss with myself do i need/want it bad enough, whatever 'it' is because, and drifting slightly off topic here, my main priority is double headed - building a regular savings pot and also since i started late, ploughing as much as i can in to my retirement pot so that i don't have to work until i die. Boring i know, but hey ho.

 

 

 

EDIT: On a side note and back on topic, i had a look at Marketplace just now. I've selected the first "gaming pc" spec that showed up - that's the term i used (gaming PC), not that i'm specifically looking for a gaming PC but whatever...

 

Quote

Windows 10 home fully activated

Ryzen 3 2200g processor

8GB DDR4 Ram dual channel @2400mhz

GTX EVGA 970 4GB Graphic Card VR Ready

500GB Solid State Drive so super fast

3x 120mm Blue LED Fans keeping things cool

550w Thermaltake Power Supply

Time Spy score of 3562

£480. Not sure if that's good or bad. I wont be buying it, i'm just posting it as an indication of what is being sold locally and for what price.

What does the mother board have for other stuff?  How many sata ports, does it have usb 3.1, how many slots, how many bays, etc. how many nics?  How much ram can you put in?  Stuff like that can be a big factor.

 

Have you done any research on that video card when it comes to transcoding, to support your new plex habit ;)  Quick google that gtx 970 might be only to do hevc 8 bit..  And does some sort of cpu+gpu hybrid transcoding?

 

I know you just put that up as an example... But its missing a lot of info that would help you decide to be honest.  Is that 500GB drive nvme m.2?  Or normal sata interface?

To be honest, you're asking questions that don't surprise me that YOU are asking them. That's not to say i know what you're talking about because i absolutely do not. nvme2whatchusay? The point i'm making is yeah perhaps the regulars on this forum would put their serial numbers on their 10 page sales advert but your average Joe wouldn't even think of it.

 

I did actually buy a new video card that was recommended to me on here. The shyster was selling a card with a bent backing plate that wouldn't fit though. Got my money back on that one even after his kicking and screaming. Thank you eBay dispute :)

So it's as you were - still the same card i had from day 1.

 

On the topic of Plex, i watched a movie for the first time in a long time without any buffering whatsoever at the weekend. Not a single bit. Most seem to have even just a little at some point during the movie but not this weekend.

 

Pitch Perfect 3 😆 blame the wife.

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    • These are not "great" prices... just "less awful". Apparently "Those who forget the past are doomed to pay higher prices and think they've won."
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    • ZimaBoard 2 1664 Starter Kit review: it's a cool and affordable DIY NAS by Steven Parker IceWhale Technology reached out to me asking if I was interested in testing the ZimaBoard 2, and after convincing them to send me the Starter Kit, it arrived at my doorstep in May. A bit of background: it is a Shanghai-based Chinese company founded in 2020, which specializes in single-board servers and personal cloud solutions. From searching around online, user feedback on the company and ZimaOS is mostly positive, so we're off to a good start. In addition, I should probably point out that although they do not have a large portfolio of NAS devices, with just four of what they do offer, they seem to have covered everything from a relatively low-priced entry point with the ZimaBoard 2, right up to the high end, with the ZimaCube 2 Creator Pack that even includes an NVIDIA RTX PRO 2000. Anyway, as already mentioned, what we have today is the ZimaBoard 2 Starter Kit, and here are the full specifications: ZimaBoard 2 Model 832, 1664 CPU Intel Core N150 (4x E Cores/Threads, Max burst up to 3.6 GHz) TDP: 6W (Base) 10W (Max) Graphics Intel UHD Graphics 24 EUs (1.00 GHz) Memory 8 GB, 16 GB DDR5 4800MT/s non ECC SODIMM (soldered) Disk Capacity 60 TB (30 TB x 2) Supported RAID Types TRAID, TRAID +, RAID0, RAID1, RAID5, RAID 6, RAID 10 Storage 2 x SATA 3.0 6Gb/s Ports with Power Bootloader 32 GB, 64 GB eMMC Network 2x RJ-45 2.5 GbE PCIe 1 x PCIe 3.0 (via LPC) USB Ports 2 x USB-A 3.1 (5 Gbps) Display Mini-DisplayPort 1.4 (4K@60Hz) Hardware Transcoding Engine H.264, H.265, MPEG-4, VC-1 Maximum resolution: 4K (4096 x 2160); Maximum FPS: 60 Virtualization Intel® AES New Instructions Intel® Virtualization Technology (VT-x) Intel® Virtualization Technology for Directed I/O (VT-d) Size (H/W/D) 140mm x 83mm x 31mm Weight 0.4 kg (only ZimaBoard 2 device) Power 12v 5A Power Supply Warranty 1 year (Global) 2 Years (EU) OS ZimaOS v1.6.1 MSRP $339, $399 ($548.60) As you can see above, there are two variants of the ZimaBoard 2. The lesser variant has half the eMMC storage and 8 GB less RAM, although it also costs $60 less than the top variant we are testing today. The above pricing is only for the ZimaBoard 2. I put the MSRP of the Starter Kit next to it in brackets, although as of publishing, it is discounted to $534.50. The ZimaBoard 2 started life on Kickstarter and shipped to backers in August last year. It became available via the official website in late 2025 and Q1 2026. This hobbyist NAS contains the still relatively new N150 Intel CPU released in the first quarter of 2025, with support for DisplayPort 1.4, HDMI 2.1, although in this case, the memory is integrated into the board itself, so it will not be possible to upgrade or expand the amount. It also supports AV1 decoding, as well as H.264, VP8, VP9, H.265 (8 bit), and H.265 (10 bit). The different capabilities in the Alder Lake-N (and Twin Lake) series are listed below. Processor E-cores L3-cache Turbo clock GPU GPU-clock TDP Intel N355 8 6 MB 3.9 GHz 32 EUs 1.35 GHz 9 W Intel Core 3 N350 3.9 GHz 1.35 GHz 7 W Intel Core i3-N305 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz 9 W Intel Core i3-N300 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz Intel N250 4 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz 6 W Intel Processor N200 3.7 GHz 0.75 GHz Intel N150 3.6 GHz 24 EUs 1 GHz Intel N97 1.2 GHz 12 W Intel Processor N100 3.4 GHz 0.75 GHz 6 W The CPU is part of the Twin Lake series that sits near the bottom of the N-series, designed for low- powered systems and entry-level laptops, and as such has a base level TDP of just 6W. As I have noted before, we are seeing another NAS with a great amount of RAM. It's important to mention that the ZimaBoard 2's memory is integrated into the base board (which is why they have two variants of it). As a reminder, up until a couple of years ago, it was commonplace to only get 2 or 4GB max on a flagship Synology or QNAP home NAS. Ever since the likes of TerraMaster and more have entered the market with ample RAM sizes included in their NAS offerings, it has gone a long way in forcing the hands of the traditional makers to up their game a bit. First impressions The Starter Kit came in one outer box with several packages inside it (shown above). I forgot to take pics of it because when it arrived, it wasn't clear what was inside, and I had to confirm with my contact that I received the entire Starter Kit. In the box ZimaBoard 2 ZimaBoard 2 HDD Expansion Bracket + PCIe card frame Zimaboard Mini DisplayPort Male to HDMI Female Cable 4K 60Hz Zimaboard PCIe 3.0 x4 to Dual NVMe M.2 SSD Adapter Card Quick guide [full online guide] Limited warranty notice Screws Design Where to start? You'd be forgiven for mistaking it as an SSD enclosure if not for all the ports on it. It is completely made out of metal, and the top is an entire heatsink. It has a premium feel about it, but it definitely looks like a hobby device. As you will see, the completed build looks like it belongs in a server or meter closet rather than as a showpiece on someone's desk. On what I am calling the rear, there's a Mini DisplayPort (1.4), two 2.5 GbE ports, with Type A 3.1 USB ports, and then the barrel connector port. Around the front, there are two SATA6 ports with a power connector in the middle. Left side Right side One side is completely free of ports. On the other there's a slit that allows for the feed of a CPU fan cable, and a PCIe 3.0 X4 slot. Top Bottom The top is entirely made up of a heatsink except for the extended height for the I/O on the rear. Around the other side, you can find the ZIMA branding and some regulatory information stamped near the bottom. As you may see from the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2, it scratches quite easily from just moving it around on my Ikea island. Teardown Before we get started, let's have a look at this thing on the inside. The steps to get to the board are as follows: Remove the four smaller Torx screws on the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2; Remove the four larger Torx screws on the sides of the device; Carefully unstick the CMOS battery from the PCB; Remove two Phillips screws on the PCB; Lift out the PCB. Yes, as you can tell from the instructions, you need three different tools to remove Torx and Phillips screws (10 in total), and unhelpfully, one of the screws is located under the CMOS battery, which is stuck onto the PCB. Building Now comes the fun part. Because the ZimaSpace website does not provide any guidance on how to put the Starter Kit together. They only have guidance for connecting the CPU fan. However, they did upload a video to their YouTube channel that shows the entire process. To install the fan, first remove the four screws on the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2, then on the inside, there is a CPU FAN connector where you can attach the fan, reattach the ZimaBoard 2 frame, and feed the fan cable through the provided slit. Then remove the nearest screw on the side and attach the fan frame to the side of the device using the same screw. ZimaBard 2 screws Aligning the screws Bottom view Remember those four screws we removed to access the CPU FAN? Longer screws are provided in the box with the HDD Expansion Bracket, which is what you will now need to attach the ZimaBoard 2 to it. Helpfully, the orientation on how to attach it is made obvious when the frame can only be screwed on at the same overall length as the ZimaBoard 2. If you do it the wrong way around (which is what I did initially) one side hangs off the frame, and it becomes difficult to attach the PCIe Adapter Card cable. PCIe card frame Other side PCIe slot connector Next, it's time to attach the PCIe card frame, which is fastened with the help of 3.5-inch SATA HDD (3 screws). These are toolless screws that you can just use your fingers to fasten them with. Then it is time to connect the provided PCIe cable with the slot connector on one side of the ZimaBoard 2, feed it through the bottom of the HDD frame, and fasten it with two standoffs. Both bracket options 2280 standoffs with 2x 4TB MP44Q The PCIe 3.0 X4 card comes with a short bracket option, handy if you decide to place it inside a different NAS or rack server, but here we need the long bracket. Oddly enough, the M.2 standoffs were preinstalled into the 22110 position, but extra standoffs are included in the box, which I installed at the 2280 position for our use. I added a couple of MP44Q M.2 PCIe 4.0 SSDs (2 x 4TB) that can be availed on Amazon for $478.99 (the lowest price for 3 months) that TEAMGROUP supplied us with Then we have the almost completed build, you just need to push the card into the PCIe slot. Unfortunately, IceWhale Technologies did not provide a screw for the PCIe card frame (this is also apparent in their own video). Here it is at several different angles, with the last pic showing the SATA Y-Cable connected to the two WD Red Plus 4TB drives. Setup and Usage Next, you connect your cables to the I/O, and the ZimaBoard 2 powers on automatically, as there is no power button on the device. Power is controlled through the Settings in ZimaOS. BIOS The ZimaBoard 2 includes an Aptio BIOS from American Megatrends [1, 2, 3], and you can setup pretty much everything here including the boot order, which is locked to the UEFI OS, however above that choice you can enable or disable booting to a SATA/USB bootloader so this would still allow you to switch to an alternative bootloader and boot from it, or disable it to instead always start from the first disk with an OS installed on it. Initial Setup Upon connecting to the LAN and booting up, the ZimaBoard 2 can be reached by navigating to the IP address (shown if you have a monitor connected), or you can find it using the ZIMA Client desktop application, which is essentially a Zima device finder. Initializing the ZimaBoard 2 The ZimaOS setup process is pretty straightforward, through a wizard, and in full above, it basically consists of setting up an account and some handy tips, and that's that! Post Setup (ZimaOS update) Upon first boot, you are alerted that there is a ZimaOS update from 1.5.0 to 1.6.1, which I applied; the full process is shown above with the changelog. ZimaBoard 2 Storage Setup Next, it is time to set up the storage. ZimaOS actually throws everything onto the eMMC flash drive; it is also the default location of AppData, which is definitely something to be wary about, as the 45GB available storage could fill up quickly. HDDs I first attempted to create a Storage Pool using the two 4TB WD Red Plus NAS drives, and got an error message: After several attempts and then looking online, I discovered it was a bug with ZimaOS where the fix was simply to reboot ZimaOS and then try again, this time I was able to create a RAID mirror using the two drives. SSDs I did the same for the SSDs, as you will see in the above gallery, when I created the second Storage Pool, it only allowed me to select available drives. ZimaBoard 2 AppData ZimaOS comes with an App Store that includes a repository of almost 400 apps, so you will be able to find most of what you'll need for a NAS (although after a quick search, I wasn't able to find a Surveillance Manager), and now comes the important part: moving the default AppData location off the 45GB eMMC and onto a larger volume: Open Settings Then Apps Then, in the Select a new location field, click on the new Storage volume you want to move it to (in my case, the Apps Storage Pool), which is the SSD RAID mirror. Confirm the Migration warning Be praised! You can also do this for Docker (which by default installs onto the 45GB eMMC flash drive) and the User database. Plex Setup Next, I tested the configuration by installing the Plex Server app from the App Store. The library folders must already exist (which I placed into the Storage Pool). Plex Server setup is straightforward and requires very little configuration. In my case, all I had to do was add the media path I just created, which you can also browse to using the folder icon in the path field. In addition, you can now map the new Media library in Windows Explorer using the Zima Client. Oddly enough, it is not possible to access the ZimaBoard 2 over the Network Neighborhood; you must map drives using the client, which is shown in the last image in the above gallery. I watched one of my Blu-Ray rips, which is Dolby Vision with Dolby Atmos, and the content played fine with no stuttering or buffering, which is what anyone needs in this scenario. ZimaBoard 2 Zima Client mobile app There's also a client for mobile. It is pretty barebones, as shown in the above gallery, for example, the Apps screen launches the WebUI for that app, and the Backup must be done manually. On opening Backup, you can select internal storage folders on your phone to backup to the ZimaBoard 2's storage, and although this is constantly scanned, the backup action itself must be manually triggered. There is an option to allow foreground backup (last image in the above gallery), but this basically means the queued backup gets triggered when you manually open the app. Benchmarking SATA PCIe 3.0 X4 A CrystalDiskMark test on a mapped network drive from within a Windows 11 25H2 PC (image above) connected over a 2.5 GbE was well within acceptable ranges. Writes were generally better on the SSD RAID mirror. SATA PCIe 3.0 X1 I also ran the NAS Performance tester, which tests the link speed performance. As you can see, it pretty much maxes out the 2.5GbE connection. Of course, you can also opt to bond the two 2.5 GbE connections for a bit more umph, but I didn't do that. Thermals Top PCIe card SATA HDDs Next, I measured some hotspots while playing content on Plex. It's fair to say this will perform better than a NAS that is enclosed in a metal or plastic case, as almost everything storage-wise is exposed! Anyway, the ZimaBoard 2 did not break a sweat with Plex streaming or disk benchmarks. ZimaOS Factory Reset ZimaOS does not include a factory reset option. Instead, you have to download the ZimaOS image and flash it to the eMMC manually. The flashing process is shown in the above gallery. The steps to do so are listed below: Download the ZimaOS image here; Open BalenaEtcher (Run as Administrator) and select the image; Select your inserted USB drive (min 8 GB) Flash to it; Connect your USB drive, monitor, keyboard, USB hub (optional), mouse (optional), and network cable (recommended) to the ZimaBoard 2; Connect power and press F11 continuously; Select your USB drive starting with UEFI in the boot device menu; Press Enter on the Install ZimaOS option; Select /dev/mmcblk0 (MMC) flash drive as target; Confirm with (three times) to wipe the target disk; Wait a couple of minutes while ZimaOS installs; Remove the USB drive and confirm with a reboot; Your ZimaBoard 2 has been factory reset. However, you don't have to stick with ZimaOS, in fact the company also offers official CasaOS images, that are based on Debian; or as they say themselves, put anything you want on this "hackable single board server" it's up to you. Conclusion I had a lot of fun putting this together. I've custom-built all my own PCs and servers since the 90s, and this is the first time I have had to put a NAS together. Even if the actual base ZimaBoard 2 was already a completed build, it still feels pretty custom. I just wish that IceWhale Technology included a getting-started guide in the box for the Start Kit, which would have really completed this kit. Instead, I had to search for the official video on the YouTube channel to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong. So who is this for? Definitely the hobbyist who is comfortable building their own PC and servers. It also has a much smaller footprint than its nearest equivalent (in terms of specs), like the Beelink Me Pro, which is another NAS I will be testing soon. Although the Beelink does not come with the PCIe 3.0 X4 expansion, the ZimaBoard 2 Starter Kit suddenly looks to be a great bargain, even if it only offers the two 3.5-inch bays over the four in the other example. It makes a lot of sense to use Intel's N150 chip inside a NAS; it is more than capable of doing what the ZimaBoard 2 is intended for, media streaming and backup. It also looks like the IceWhale Technology staff are quite active in the official forums helping people with issues they come across with ZimaOS and the devices, peer support seems to be good as well, I was quickly able to find why I was not able to create a new Storage Pool in ZimaOS v1.6.1 even though that is quite a serious bug, hopefully it will be fixed in the next update. If you are comfortable with the command line and Docker, you'll be fine. You can do great things with this hardware. This was my first time with ZimaOS. It seems a bit barebones in comparison to the likes of Synology DSM, TOS, and UGOS, but it has a ton of apps to get you started with your home or small business NAS. Where to buy As of publishing, IceWhale Technology is running a discount of up to 5% for the Starter Kit. If you opt to get just the ZimaBoard 2 itself, it does come with a SATA Y-Cable, so you will be able to connect up to two 3.5-inch HDDs to it. ZimaBoard 2 1668 Starter Kit for $534.50 on Amazon US (was $548.60) ZimaBoard 2 832 Starter Kit for $372.88 on Amazon US (was $390.60) Zimaboard 2 1668 (16GB+64GB) for $419.90 on Amazon US Zimaboard 2 832 (8GB+32GB) for $359.90 on Amazon Disclosure: IceWhale Technology provided a free sample without any editorial input or review pre-approval. Good to know The Amazon link is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. 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