To build or buy a new PC? [UK]*


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* The only reason i put UK in the title is because, surprise-surprise, that's where i'm from. So any 'you could buy this' links that are in foreign currency ... i couldn't.

I generally use https://www.ebuyer.com/ and https://www.scan.co.uk/ to source anything PC related. Mainly eBuyer although if any UK people know of other/better sites (no, not eBay) then feel free to suggest.

 

Back in 2010 i was coming off an ancient PC which took about 1 week to boot WinXP so i decided to build my own PC with the view of it lasting 10 years the same way that old slow machine had done. I did this for 3 reasons - 1) No preloaded crap 2) To build it to the spec i wanted, so it'd be as fast as i wanted and 3) the main reason - to simply build. I'd always wanted to have a go at building my own.

 

Now as we come towards 2020 i learn that Windows 7 support is about to end. Whether it's tomorrow or next year, sooner or later i'll end up on Windows 10 so i was thinking it could be time to buy or build a PC that is more powerful than the one i have as for some tasks my PC is actually quite slow.

I'm no hardcore gamer btw and in fact i have little to no time to play games these days, although that's not to rule out the possibility that i may.

 

 

When i built my PC back in 2010 i'm sure i spent somewhere around £1100-£1300. Looking now, you can pick up a pre-built thing for pretty cheap. https://www.ebuyer.com/store/Computer/cat/Desktop-PC and for a bit more you can get something under their gaming heading https://www.ebuyer.com/store/Computer/cat/Desktop-PC/subcat/Gaming-PC. So for anyone who's averse to clicking links - for no more than £400 you can pick up something already more powerful than what i have.

 

Speaking of which. Current specs:

 

CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1055T 2.80GHz

RAM: 16GB Corsair

Drives: Samsung SSD 830 (primary) 256GB with Windows 7 64bit Pro on as primary. A number of other HDDs as well as a 2TB Seagate SSHD.

GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 460 1GB

PSU: BeQuiet 530W, Model No: BQT L7-530W

 

If i build then i'll end up spending more than this £300-£500 area, even to build the same spec of what is in the £300-£500 zone really which makes me wonder - is it worth me building or just buying?

 

If you need more info from me to give feedback then feel free to ask and i'll answer as best i can :)

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What sort of tasks do you use the computer for at the moment? You say you don't want to rule out playing games, but realistically you need to decide, do you want it to be able to play games or not? If yes, what type of games? None of the £400 ones you linked to will be able to run any modern games at playable framerates because they have integrated graphics (or a very poor APU), also these pre-builts will have the absolute cheapest PSUs/Mobos so even if you decided you want to add a dedicated GPU in the future, you might not be able to. The cheapest one with on the pages you listed with a usable GPU (GTX 1650) is the Cyberpower and that's £520. 

 

If you potentially want to play games, I'd build it yourself, then even if you don't add a GPU now, you know you can in the future. If you're not bothered about games at all and just want something a little bit faster than what you currently have going for a cheap pre-built would probably be fine.

Edited by ZakO

I won't go into too much detail but on the matter of building it yourself or buying one that's already built.  Why not go with option 3 and go with a shop that will build what you want for you?   Because my time was limited what I did for my new gaming PC was buy all the parts myself online but then took them to a shop in town and had them put it together for me.  

 

Right now though lots of online tech shops have their own "build it yourself" option, pick the parts you want and they'll do all the work and ship it out to you.  

Well, here is a DIY gaming PC for <£500

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor  (£118.97 @ CCL Computers) 
Motherboard: *ASRock B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard  (£79.85 @ CCL Computers) 
Memory: *Patriot Viper 4 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (£38.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Storage: *Toshiba OCZ TR200 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (£45.83 @ CCL Computers) 
Video Card: *Sapphire Radeon RX 570 4 GB NITRO+ Video Card  (£129.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Case: *Aerocool Cylon ATX Mid Tower Case  (£32.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Power Supply: *Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  (£52.99 @ AWD-IT) 
Total: £499.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-25 13:22 BST+0100

If i'm honest there's a lot of upsides to buying a pre-made PC. I've done it in the past due to lack of time. There are some builders out there like CyberPowerPC, novatech etc where you can select specifically the parts you want, and you'll also get the warranty on it too. Often it doesn't come out massively over what you'd pay for the parts.

 

My recommendation would be to buy one without the OS. You can just purchase a Win10 licence from ebay for £10 or whatever and save yourself a bunch of cash that way too. Get the prebuilt PC and then just load Windows on it yourself when you get it, so you know you'll have a nice clean OS and is sort of a nice middle ground.

 

Obviously from a 'PC Master Race' standpoint people will tell you you're a fool for not building it entirely yourself. If you can get a good deal on a pre-built, do it.  Hotukdeals sometimes has good deals crop up. And often with vendors like CyberPowerPc you can spec your machine up and then call them and fairly easily be offered an extra 5% off.  If you're veering that way anyway and you're happy with the price, do it. What matters at the end of the day is you end up with a machine you're happy with and can play the games you want to play on it.

 

Just a couple of very quick searches shows some good deals for ~500

 

https://www.cclonline.com/pc/specialist-gaming-pcs/pba/ccl-stryker-gaming-pc/0300010105000200050000010203/?siteID=hL3Qp0zRBOc-1X8u53NiLFBdtOL494hT7Q

 

https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/mid-range-gaming-pc-3277630

4 minutes ago, CronchyNut said:

If i'm honest there's a lot of upsides to buying a pre-made PC. I've done it in the past due to lack of time. There are some builders out there like CyberPowerPC, novatech etc where you can select specifically the parts you want, and you'll also get the warranty on it too. Often it doesn't come out massively over what you'd pay for the parts.

 

My recommendation would be to buy one without the OS. You can just purchase a Win10 licence from ebay for £10 or whatever and save yourself a bunch of cash that way too. Get the prebuilt PC and then just load Windows on it yourself when you get it, so you know you'll have a nice clean OS and is sort of a nice middle ground.

 

Obviously from a 'PC Master Race' standpoint people will tell you you're a fool for not building it entirely yourself. If you can get a good deal on a pre-built, do it.  Hotukdeals sometimes has good deals crop up. And often with vendors like CyberPowerPc you can spec your machine up and then call them and fairly easily be offered an extra 5% off.  If you're veering that way anyway and you're happy with the price, do it. What matters at the end of the day is you end up with a machine you're happy with and can play the games you want to play on it.

CyberPower doesn't sell systems for 500 pounds, though...

24 minutes ago, CronchyNut said:

My recommendation would be to buy one without the OS. You can just purchase a Win10 licence from ebay for £10 or whatever and save yourself a bunch of cash that way too. Get the prebuilt PC and then just load Windows on it yourself when you get it, so you know you'll have a nice clean OS and is sort of a nice middle ground.

lolll

1 hour ago, Mockingbird said:

Well, here is a DIY gaming PC for <£500

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor  (£118.97 @ CCL Computers) 
Motherboard: *ASRock B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard  (£79.85 @ CCL Computers) 
Memory: *Patriot Viper 4 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (£38.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Storage: *Toshiba OCZ TR200 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (£45.83 @ CCL Computers) 
Video Card: *Sapphire Radeon RX 570 4 GB NITRO+ Video Card  (£129.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Case: *Aerocool Cylon ATX Mid Tower Case  (£32.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Power Supply: *Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  (£52.99 @ AWD-IT) 
Total: £499.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-25 13:22 BST+0100

Unless he wants new .. everything ... he already has the case, PSU and storage.  So you could just buy a new mobo, CPU, memory and GPU.  Not purchasing a new case, PSU or a new SSD could open him up to a 1660ti which would be superior to the 570, 580 or 590.

 

So, something along the lines of what you suggested ... the

Ryzen 2600

ASrock B450

8GB of memory

1660ti

reuse current PSU, Case, Storage ...

... should put him right at or below £500 with the option of updating various components down the line (for example buying a nvme SSD for the OS or whatever).

 

Just my humble suggestion.  :) 

  • Thanks 1
49 minutes ago, Jim K said:

Unless he wants new .. everything ... he already has the case, PSU and storage.  So you could just buy a new mobo, CPU, memory and GPU.  Not purchasing a new case, PSU or a new SSD could open him up to a 1660ti which would be superior to the 570, 580 or 590.

 

So, something along the lines of what you suggested ... the

Ryzen 2600

ASrock B450

8GB of memory

1660ti

reuse current PSU, Case, Storage ...

... should put him right at or below £500 with the option of updating various components down the line (for example buying a nvme SSD for the OS or whatever).

 

Just my humble suggestion.  :) 

Well, I was trying to an apples to apples comparison because he was talking about whether to buy or build a PC.

 

That said, you are absolutely right that he can reuse his storage, PSU, and case.

7 hours ago, Jim K said:

Unless he wants new .. everything ... he already has the case, PSU and storage.  So you could just buy a new mobo, CPU, memory and GPU.  Not purchasing a new case, PSU or a new SSD could open him up to a 1660ti which would be superior to the 570, 580 or 590.

 

First off thanks to everyone for the replies.

 

Secondly, i don't like to answer questions like "what do you use it for". No offence. If i mention what i 99% use it for then you will spec me the most budget machine known to man. It's like my car for example - i use it to get from A to B like most people do, so why don't i own the cheapest most economical thing ever? Because it'd be slow as sh@# and i'm quite happy spending a bit extra for that better acceleration from a standstill and from 40/50 upwards even. I wouldn't be happy with something snail pace even though it'd still get me from A-B.

 

Third - Jim K you raise a very good point and it's not one that i've decided on because this is an early days kind of idea. Before Budman comes and quotes me from a few months back where i can't afford and don't like to spend .... i know i know. But i think a lot. Often my thinking will come to nothing. I've thought about a new car for years but have the same one i bought 10 years ago. I've thought of a new sound system - but haven't spent (yet), so on & so forth. I just think....a lot and like to look at my options. Some times i go ahead, many times i don't :)

But anyway Jim, i don't actually know what i'd do there. On the one hand i'm the type of guy to just say F it and buy everything new. Total new start. Equally you raise a good point - there's nothing wrong with my case. My case cost about £150 originally.

The PSU i wonder - i wonder if it'd be better buying new, whether it'd offer me anything over this one, whether it'd be an idea to renew after 10 years, i don't know.

Regards storage, as far as the SSD goes i'd be buying a new one as main - 512GB likely. The other drives would remain the same...possibly. I'm still building this media library so that one could very well change.

20 minutes ago, Technique said:

No offence. If i mention what i 99% use it for then you will spec me the most budget machine known to man.

Okay. But if the only thing you do is surf the internet, watch some youtube videos, and check emails then you don't need a middle to high end graphics card and a lot of memory or storage space.

 

People ask that question so they can tailor a build to your needs.

 

And also keep in mind that you're wasting peoples time that are trying to help you by sending them out to research a pc that you might not have a use for.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, trag3dy said:

Okay. But if the only thing you do is surf the internet, watch some youtube videos, and check emails then you don't need a middle to high end graphics card and a lot of memory or storage space.

 

People ask that question so they can tailor a build to your needs.

 

And also keep in mind that you're wasting peoples time that are trying to help you by sending them out to research a pc that you might not have a use for.

I disagree.

 

What i would like and what i need are two completely different things.

Like with the car for example. Nobody 'needs' a fast car, they want it. If you need a car to get from A-B then the cheapest option does the job right because the speed limit is the speed limit right?

My TV for another example. In the end i went for 58". I didn't need a 58" TV that cost me about £1100-£1200 off the top of my head. I could've saved myself close to £1000 and still got a reasonable sized TV which would've still allowed me to watch things on. I went for the one i went for because that was the one i wanted. Would a £300 40" TV have covered what i needed - to watch TV, DVDs, play consoles on etc? Of course it would've. I didn't want that though. Sure i went overkill for my needs but so what? I don't drink, i don't smoke, i can afford to spend it where i want to spend it.

 

Also, i am not 'sending out' anyone. I am grateful for anyone who spends the time doing that of course, but i am sending nobody out. It is a general question. Building and buying a similar spec PC, from peoples experiences, which is better/cheaper/advisable. I'm asking those with years of experience in this to comment on which approach they'd recommend, not to actually build me a PC. That will come later when i get round to it.

 

Most of my use is emails, browsing, YouTube watching sure. So you'll now tell me i don't need a graphics card but like i said i don't need a 58" TV either. I'm also currently using Handbrake to save on storage space with the movies i'm ripping and my current CPU is struggling with it ... that's one task beyond the standard emails and browsing. I also said i wont rule out playing games on the PC. You ask what games, well i don't know. I didn't know when i built my existing PC, i just bought a graphics card that at the time was supposed to handle a good amount of games that were out there at that point, so that if i decided to buy something then my PC could run it.

 

 

10 hours ago, trag3dy said:

Okay. Well. Good luck. Hope you get help with the problem you have without telling anyone what it actually is.

With the problem i have? What problem do i have?

 

I came here to see what is recommended when it comes to replacing this PC with another - build or buy. The first PC i mentioned lasted 10 years before it really did need replacing. The existing one has lasted very nearly 10 years. It doesn't 'need' replacing but i'm considering it. It would therefore make sense that i am looking for another '10 year PC' with an all round reasonable specification. Not to carry out the most demanding tasks ever but something that can handle beyond your standard emails and youtube videos for 'in case....' purposes like i did when i built this PC.

 

I don't know what it is you think i'm looking for. I think you perhaps assume i want someone to go out, spec it, buy it & build it for me which clearly is not the case.

 

Speaking of which i forgot to address that point yesterday .... someone mentioned websites that'll build it for you. I'm not convinced by those. Sounds good but you buy 10 parts for £XYZ. You get them home and build it at no extra cost. Alternatively you buy the same 10 parts for the same £XYZ but now you also pay £ABC on top of that for someone to put it together for you & send it out. If i built my own then i know i'd be asking questions to double check. I remember doing this last time - does this plug go there, do i put that there (ok i didn't ask this for everything but i did for some things) but at least it wouldn't cost me any extra. Basically i'm just saying that if i chose to build then my preference would be for me to build it & not someone else.

When you build you should not build for "today" and by that I mean don't build a system that you are already looking to upgrade give it a X year lifecycle.  When you buy prebuilt look for a deal they are out there, usually around back to school times. Why not consider a 3rd option which is buying a slightly used one that someone built and now needs the cash more than the system.

I'd say at this price bracket, built it as OEMs often cheap out on some really important stuff like the Mobo and PSU.

 

Sure you could pull the PSU and use the same case, but with more modern niceties like dust filters on the case and the fact I wouldn't want to trust a 10 year old PSU with new hardware, might as well start from scratch.

 

You usually have to go higher end to find quality components across the board on a pre-built.

To build or not to build.

 

For most people around here, the enthusiasts, assembling a PC is a passion, a hobby.

 

No body can tell you what to do or what not to do with your life, especially after that Marketing 101 lecture on needs vs wants that you delivered. You seem to have your mind set already.

 

If you want to build a PC yourself, go ahead and do it.

 

If you'd rather someone else does it for you, there you go.

4 hours ago, DoctorD said:

When you build you should not build for "today" and by that I mean don't build a system that you are already looking to upgrade give it a X year lifecycle.  When you buy prebuilt look for a deal they are out there, usually around back to school times. Why not consider a 3rd option which is buying a slightly used one that someone built and now needs the cash more than the system.

I think a 10 year timeframe is reasonable but i also appreciate what you're saying. Reasonable to who and for what?

For someone who has high demands from a PC who actually does need the highest of high specs from what is available this year is unlikely to be looking at a 10 year cycle the way that i am.

 

You do raise a very good point and it's one that i've been seriously considering - the part i put in bold. I've been looking on Facebook Marketplace and providing nobody is trying to con anyone (always a risk in the 2nd hand market) then there are some awesome bargains to be had. Some seriously spec'd machines for good money. I don't have a burning desire to build the next PC as i've already ticked that off my to-do list. Not that i'd never do it again but last time round i wanted to do it just to say i'd done it, just to experience it.

So yeah, providing there's nothing wrong with these machines and nobody is trying to swindle me then there's some good deals on Marketplace.

2 hours ago, Peresvet said:

 

No body can tell you what to do or what not to do with your life,

Agreed, just the way nobody is here asking for people to tell me what to do with my life either. This is why the thread is coming from the angle of i'd go the buy it route because of ABC and someone else says well i'd go the build it route because of XYZ. You as an individual then look at the points put across and go yeah that guy has a point so does that guy, i hadn't thought of that so you know what i'm going to opt for that option.

 

 

 

EDIT: Damn, that's my 2,346th post. I didn't notice i was on 2,345 posts 😅

18 hours ago, Technique said:

Before Budman comes and quotes me from a few months back where i can't afford and don't like to spend

heheehe - dude made me laugh... But atleast you know it ;)  You have to be one of the most cheap SOBs around here ;)  You dream of champagne, but don't want to even spend the money on champagne of beer (miller high life)...

 

The overall topic to build or buy off the shelf can be a difficult one to be sure... Back in the day it was easier, you could actually build something better for same or cheaper cost.. But to be honest I just went recently looked into this a bit for my own needs.  And to be honest you as long as your not too picky you can for sure find something online that you can customize a bit that is cheaper then buying everything yourself, then putting it together and or having someone do it for you that will most likely do everything you want and more.

 

Where you run into problem is you want this specific "thing" then this "specific" feature then yeah that can get difficult finding off the shelf type of box that meets your price and your needs.. Like when you buy a car, maybe you only want X, but X only comes when you get option package ABC... so it also comes with Y and Z... Which you do not want really - but if you want X its going to cost you more then just X, etc.

 

Upgrading your rig, ie reuse case, reuse power supply - sure can save you money.. But if its too long in the tooth, prob not going to work anyway, etc.  A new case and or power supply are normally not the big ticket items anyway.. And really not going to change the price all that much in the big picture.

 

What I would suggest is list the things that you MUST have!  Then try and find a prebuilt system that has that.. If you can not find it - or at a price point your happy with... Then price out the parts to build your rig.. Is it still in your budget - then you have your answer.  Is it cheaper then the prebuilt?  Etc.. nobody can really tell you build is better than built since everyone has different needs and wants in their pc... There is no right or wrong answer to this question...

 

My main box is getting pretty long in the tooth, and my video card died on me... Was stuck using the built in video (single monitor)... It was a few days of HELL ;)  went back and forth - just get a new freaking rig or get replacement video card.. In the end just went with a 45$ video card that will allow me to use my existing monitors... And put off the new rig for a bit.. Not like it doesn't do what I want it to do.. And does it very quickly, etc.   But really if going to build a new rig with video card better suited for transcoding - bit pricey ;)  All the new video cards use display port, etc.  Which would mean I would get new monitors ;)  heheh  Sure I could get adapters - but hey if the new video card can do 4k.. Why not get couple of new monitors as well, etc.

 

So yeah your question can be difficult..  Good luck on your search.  But dude in the end your going to have to spend some money ;)

 

edit:  While your searching for the new perfect rig... Make sure to research how the video card does with transcoding via the gpu, etc. Since your also playing with plex - your going to want a video card that can transcode FAST.. especially if you want to do x265 at some point to save space, etc... I ended up being pretty happy with my $45 video card since it can transcode to 264 way faster then my cpu, and my old video card didn't support any gpu transcoding.  Can't do 265 - but what do you want for $45 ;)

1 hour ago, BudMan said:

My main box is getting pretty long in the tooth, and my video card died on me... Was stuck using the built in video (single monitor)... It was a few days of HELL ;)  went back and forth - just get a new freaking rig or get replacement video card.. In the end just went with a 45$ video card that will allow me to use my existing monitors... And put off the new rig for a bit.. Not like it doesn't do what I want it to do.. And does it very quickly, etc.   But really if going to build a new rig with video card better suited for transcoding - bit pricey ;)  All the new video cards use display port, etc.  Which would mean I would get new monitors ;)  heheh  Sure I could get adapters - but hey if the new video card can do 4k.. Why not get couple of new monitors as well, etc.

And your wife would kill you... :laugh:

Yeah would of gotten the crazy long eye roll for sure... But I did plant the seed that its not going to be long.. When I told here how old the machine was..  Hey let me try this card to see if it fixes it, but if not - prob just best to buy a new one with old it is, etc ;)  Might be the mother board that is bad, if the video card doesn't work - hehehe

 

Maybe a xmas gift for myself?  Would be slick to say transcode a 2 hour movie to x265 in less than 15 minutes ;)

5 hours ago, BudMan said:

So yeah your question can be difficult..  Good luck on your search.  But dude in the end your going to have to spend some money ;)

 

I'm strange, i know. I know i'm as tight as a ducks arse but then one day i'll blow a load on nothing. Crazy, stupid, whatever.

I have an interest in cars but that's an area i'm not comfortable spending in too much - simply because with a car, any d'head out there can ruin what you worked hard for. They can ram you from behind, hit you head on, smash the crap out of your wing mirror (as happened to me a few weeks ago) or you can come back to your car after having parked in a car park & best case scenario is you have a scrape, worst case is your door/bonnet/bumper etc is totally folded in. I see it on a local FB group i'm on - "any witnesses at such & such a location on such & such a date/time .... someone has hit my car and not left their details".

 

On the one hand you have the argument of don't let others dictate to you, if you want it then have it.

Personally i don't like to spend too much in areas where outsiders can ruin what i worked for ... because i have a very short fuse.

 

Instead i prefer to spend where the only person who can F-up the goods is myself (or my wife). That's why i spent more than i needed to on the TV. It's why i went overkill with the PC i built at the time. It's why i get a market leading mobile phone (& then keep it until it dies - still on my iPhone 6S which i bought on its release date).

 

So i do spend, just in certain areas and at certain times after much weighing up the +/-. I'm not an impulsive purchaser. If i'm still thinking about it months down the line then i tend to buy it but i give myself the time to discuss with myself do i need/want it bad enough, whatever 'it' is because, and drifting slightly off topic here, my main priority is double headed - building a regular savings pot and also since i started late, ploughing as much as i can in to my retirement pot so that i don't have to work until i die. Boring i know, but hey ho.

 

 

 

EDIT: On a side note and back on topic, i had a look at Marketplace just now. I've selected the first "gaming pc" spec that showed up - that's the term i used (gaming PC), not that i'm specifically looking for a gaming PC but whatever...

 

Quote

Windows 10 home fully activated

Ryzen 3 2200g processor

8GB DDR4 Ram dual channel @2400mhz

GTX EVGA 970 4GB Graphic Card VR Ready

500GB Solid State Drive so super fast

3x 120mm Blue LED Fans keeping things cool

550w Thermaltake Power Supply

Time Spy score of 3562

£480. Not sure if that's good or bad. I wont be buying it, i'm just posting it as an indication of what is being sold locally and for what price.

What does the mother board have for other stuff?  How many sata ports, does it have usb 3.1, how many slots, how many bays, etc. how many nics?  How much ram can you put in?  Stuff like that can be a big factor.

 

Have you done any research on that video card when it comes to transcoding, to support your new plex habit ;)  Quick google that gtx 970 might be only to do hevc 8 bit..  And does some sort of cpu+gpu hybrid transcoding?

 

I know you just put that up as an example... But its missing a lot of info that would help you decide to be honest.  Is that 500GB drive nvme m.2?  Or normal sata interface?

To be honest, you're asking questions that don't surprise me that YOU are asking them. That's not to say i know what you're talking about because i absolutely do not. nvme2whatchusay? The point i'm making is yeah perhaps the regulars on this forum would put their serial numbers on their 10 page sales advert but your average Joe wouldn't even think of it.

 

I did actually buy a new video card that was recommended to me on here. The shyster was selling a card with a bent backing plate that wouldn't fit though. Got my money back on that one even after his kicking and screaming. Thank you eBay dispute :)

So it's as you were - still the same card i had from day 1.

 

On the topic of Plex, i watched a movie for the first time in a long time without any buffering whatsoever at the weekend. Not a single bit. Most seem to have even just a little at some point during the movie but not this weekend.

 

Pitch Perfect 3 😆 blame the wife.

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    • NetSpeedTray 1.3.3 by Razvan Serea NetSpeedTray is a lightweight, open-source Windows network monitor that shows live upload and download speeds directly on the Taskbar. Designed for efficiency, it quietly sits in the system tray, conserving CPU and battery with dynamic updates. It blends seamlessly with Windows 10/11, adapts to light/dark themes, and auto-positions to avoid overlaps. Features include accurate interface detection, customizable display, optional mini-graph, color coding, granular font and unit control, detailed per-interface history graphs, safe data management, and easy CSV export—bringing the network monitoring Windows forgot. NetSpeedTray key features: Lightweight & Efficient Runs quietly in your system tray without consuming resources. Features a "Dynamic Update Rate" that lowers refresh frequency when the network is idle to save CPU and battery life. Native Look & Feel Blends seamlessly with Windows 10/11 UI. Smart detection for light and dark taskbar themes ensures text is always visible. Intelligent & Adaptive Positioning Automatically finds empty space next to your system tray and shifts to make room for new icons, preventing overlaps. Seamless OS Integration Behaves like a native Windows component. Hides instantly with auto-hiding taskbar Hides when a fullscreen app is active Smart Network Monitoring Accurate by Default: Auto mode identifies your main internet connection and ignores noise from VPNs or virtual adapters. Easy Interface Selection: Switch effortlessly between Auto, All, or Selected network interfaces via intuitive radio buttons. Total Visual Customization Free Move Mode: Unlock and place the widget anywhere on your screen. Optional Mini-Graph: Real-time graph of recent network activity with adjustable opacity. Color Coding: Customize colors and speed thresholds to quickly see network status. Granular Display Control Text & Font: Adjust font family, size, weight, and alignment. Units: Automatic (B/s, KB/s, MB/s) or fixed Mbps display. Precision: Set decimal places and always show them for uniform appearance. Detailed & Intelligent History Graph Smart Scale: Logarithmic scale shows low-level traffic and large spikes clearly. Per-Interface Filtering: View speed history for specific adapters (Wi-Fi, Ethernet, VPN). Safe & Efficient Data Management: Adjustable retention, automatic cleanup, optimized database. Easy Data Export: Export raw data to .csv or save high-quality graphs for reports. NetSpeedTray v1.3.3: The Updater Fix A stabilization release that repairs a critical regression in v1.3.2: the app shipped without OpenSSL, which silently broke every HTTPS request — including the built-in update checker (the "Could not check for updates" error many of you hit). This release restores it, hardens the build so it can't happen again, and fixes a startup crash plus four other reported bugs. Changes: Fixed update checking — Resolved a critical issue that prevented the app from checking for updates ("Could not check for updates"). Fixed startup crash with Auto-Cycling — The app no longer crashes on launch after enabling Cycle display mode. Fixed incorrect network speeds on 10GbE adapters — Multi-gigabit network cards now display speeds correctly instead of being stuck at 0. Improved color coding — Default color is shown when idle, and color/threshold changes now apply immediately without restarting. Fullscreen visibility fix — The widget now correctly stays visible over fullscreen apps when Keep Visible is enabled. Improved AMD Ryzen temperature detection — More reliable CPU temperature monitoring for Ryzen processors. Cleaner upgrades — Installer now removes outdated application files during upgrades, preventing DLL/version conflicts while preserving user settings. Improved stability — Fixed potential DLL loading issues by excluding critical OpenSSL and NumPy components from UPX compression. Better settings window — Scrollbars removed and layout improved for a cleaner experience. Localization improvements — Updated translations and completed missing UI text across all supported languages. More reliable releases — Added regression tests covering recent critical fixes, bringing the test suite to 196 passing tests. [full release notes] Download: NetSpeedTray 1.3.3 | 87.9 MB (Open Source) Download: NetSpeedTray Portable | 101.0 MB View: NetSpeedTray Home Page | Screenshot Get alerted to all of our Software updates on Twitter at @NeowinSoftware
    • Why Delta Chat is the best decentralized messenger you have probably never tried by Paul Hill There is no shortage of messaging apps out there; we have WhatsApp, Messenger, and Telegram, just to name a few. While Meta has taken steps to incorporate encryption into Messenger and WhatsApp, they still leave a lot to be desired. If you are in the market for a messaging app that promotes security, privacy, and optional anonymity, you'll want to read what I have to say about Delta Chat. For those not familiar with Delta Chat, rather than relying on centralized servers as you do with Facebook Messenger, it relies on email. Essentially, it is a chat interface that feels like a messaging app, but secretly in the background, it is firing off emails. In the past, you used to have to sign in with your email account. When you sent messages to people, it would just be sending encrypted messages to their inbox, which their Delta Chat client would decrypt. When I first learned about Delta Chat, it required users to sign in with an email account, but I was pleasantly surprised upon trying it in 2026 that this is no longer a requirement, or the preferred method was to use the app. Recently, I’ve tried UAD-ng on my old Nokia 3.4 to disable most of the Google apps because the bootloader is locked, and this is the next best option. While finding replacement apps in F-Droid, I came across Delta Chat again, and it has undergone quite a big change since I last used it, with its new chatmail relays, which no longer require you to sign in to your own email account, providing anonymity, and they offer greater security. Android and Desktop Delta Chat apps. Not only does it run on my de-googled phone, but it also works on desktop computers and iOS, making it truly ubiquitous. For me, Delta Chat is a wonderful alternative messenger because it gives you more control. It supports switching between different profiles, which you can set up super quickly; you don’t register a username, you don’t register a password. The only thing you do have is a random string email address on a chatmail relay (which you don’t have to memorize). To maintain access to your profile, you just need to add a second device to your account via QR code or make a backup of your account, which you can restore later. Fail to do these, your account is gone - as it should be if you don’t want to leave accounts that could get hacked later on. My decision to block Google stuff on my Nokia was done for practical reasons; the device sucked when it launched, and it sucks even more now. The nice thing about F-Droid and the apps within is that they’re usually lightweight, free of bloat, and work well on that device. What was inconvenient for me was that it was hard to send messages from that device, say if I wanted to copy a code over to my main phone or send family members a link from that device. That’s when I decided to look at the available chat apps and saw Delta Chat. Another nice thing about Delta Chat is its notifications. Some messaging apps rely on Google’s ecosystem for notification transport on Android; however, with Delta Chat, it can use Google’s solutions if you have Play Services or MicroG installed. Otherwise, it is able to keep a background connection to the chatmail relay server so that you can get notified when you receive a message. As free software, the code of Delta Chat is open for all who want to take it and build upon it. In the future, if the developers of Delta Chat make a catastrophically bad decision and take the app in an undesirable direction, users can take the code and fork the project. This contrasts with closed-source apps from corporations that can take their products in any direction they like. By relying on free software instead of closed-source programs, you actually control your computing. I’ve spoken at length about how running this type of software is like owning your own home rather than renting it. The same applies here; if you use Delta Chat, you don’t need to worry about it going away in the future. Whether it is Telegram, WhatsApp, or Messenger, you are required to register a username and password to use these services. A major flaw in this design is that anyone can try various passwords and potentially break into your account with your complete chat history intact. Sure, there is encryption in Messenger, where you need a second PIN and two-factor authentication in Telegram, but breaches happen all the time. Unlike before, when you used to sign in to your email account to send and receive messages, the primary way to do it now is to create an account on a chatmail relay. The resulting email address is a random string followed by the name of the relay you pick. This means you can start and begin adding contacts Without a username and password, you either need to ensure you have a backup or at least one device running your Delta Chat profile. The primary way to log in on another device is to go to the settings and add a second device. Then, you’ll just scan a QR code with your new device, and it’ll log in to your account and sync all your chat history and contacts. To end users, Delta Chat just looks like any instant messenger; however, it is really sending your messages as encrypted emails to your contact. This is pretty cool from a censorship perspective, as it makes the service more difficult to block. Previously, the main way to use the app was by logging in with email, but nowadays, it’s recommended that you use chatmail relays. Chatmail relays temporarily hold messages in case your device is offline. They are cheap, simple servers that don’t store data as group states. Other information, like your name and avatar, only exists on your device and the devices of those you share your contact information with. The relays are also decentralized and operated by various groups and individuals. It is even possible to set up your own chatmail relay, but most people will want to use one hosted elsewhere. To keep your messages secure, Delta Chat uses a secure subset of the OpenPGP standard that gives you automatic end-to-end encryption. It also uses Secure-Join to exchange encryption setup information through QR-code scanning or invite links. Autocrypt is also used to automatically establish end-to-end encryption between contacts and all members of group chat, but sometime this year Autocrypt v2 will be rolled out, bringing post-quantum resistant encryption and forward secrecy. The Delta Chat FAQ is an interesting read that explains many more details about the app. Credit: Pexels Delta Chat is unique among messaging apps because it is built on email, a technology that’s decades old and isn’t going anywhere soon. What’s more is that email is not centralized either, so it’s far more difficult for any authoritarian regime to disrupt the Delta Chat app. I haven’t spoken too much about features yet, so I will do that now. Delta Chat allows you to do one-on-one chats, group chats, and create channels. It also supports file sharing and making audio and video calls when chatting one-to-one, but it’s not available for group chats right now. At the time of writing, the calling functionality is disabled and can be enabled in Settings > Advanced > Debug Calls. I have used the video calling feature, and the quality is excellent. It works over WebRTC, another open standard. The app also lets you send voice notes, enables disappearing messages, and has its own app ecosystem. I did try playing chess one time there, but it was a bit spotty; though, we did manage to complete the game with a victory for me. To add people to Delta Chat, you can either give them your Delta Chat link or your QR code to scan. These are the only ways to add users, so you won't have any spam bots bothering you. If the people you want to chat with don't have the app yet, just send them your link, and it will take them to a webpage where they can install the app and then add you. It's really quick for them to install it and get started, which is nice. Credit: Microsoft. The Majorana 2 quantum chip unveiled in 2026. I do not think quantum computers are too far out now, and I do hope that Delta Chat is able to push out Autocrypt v2 sooner, rather than later, so bad actors do not attempt to collect encrypted communications and then decrypt them in the future using quantum computers. By getting people’s messages post-quantum-safe now, users won’t have to worry when quantum computers start cracking legacy encryption. Overall, I would recommend this app to people who are already past WhatsApp and Messenger and have perhaps begun using apps like Telegram or Session. It shares a lot of characteristics with these apps and goes a lot further than Telegram in terms of security. By being based on email, it is also resistant to censorship, and the lack of a username and password makes you anonymous (if you want to be) and safe from brute force password cracking attempts. Let me know in the comments if you’ve tried Delta Chat recently. Do you think it's a good bulwark against governments that are tightening their grip on the internet?
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