What do you drive?


Recommended Posts

People people blank out your number plates! Don't know what it's like arounmd the world, but UK theirs big scams going on!

I always do, just because that is what I was told, etc. I was just wondering why it is necessary? I mean... if these scammers really wanted your licence plate couldn't they just walk outside?... I am sure there is a reason maybe like, these people in the U.K. will use the licence plate of those in a different country? But I don't even know if that would be valid... Anyways, I really don't see (just because I don't know enough about the scam) why they need to troll uploaded images to scam licence plates when they could drive to their local supermarket and write down/take photos of cars there.

But to go along with thread, I do not yet have my own car, financially I could get one, but it's a better use of my money to do what I am doing now: sharing my mom's car. (she works night shifts, 11pm-7am - and sleeps throughout the day so it works perfectly as that is when I work/go to school)

1997 Saturn SL-1. Currently has 108,000 km's... we purchased it 3 years ago?ish. When it only had 50,000km's. Body was in perfect condition, an old couple owned it just to go to the grocery store treated the car very well, no rust etc.

Got it very cheap as they were going into a nursing home and had no use for it.

  • 3 weeks later...

I drive a 2001 Renault Megane, which I have had since 2008 and quite like. It has one or two bits need working on when I have time and money but it's still in lovely condition.

Link to image here

  • 3 weeks later...

This is what my truck currently looks like, minus the 20% brow that it has, got the whole windshield tinted, and it didn't "heal" correctly, so they redid it and I just never had them put the brow back on.

dinggus-albums-2003+f-150-picture136917-sides-20.png

All I want now are some black 22's and black seat covers with red stitching and I should be happy. Maybe the step sides and bedrails get replaced with smooth red covers, don't know yet.

It's almost paid off I have $6k left! Now I'm debating what I'm going to do with the extra $250/month, lol. I was thinking about getting a new vehicle, but, I want to wait to get a new truck when it's time for the wife and I to have some ankle biter's around.

Recently got a new (to me) car! 2006 Audi A3 3.2L S-Line, coming from driving an 02 Jetta 1.8t this thing is a blast, Quattro is great and the V6 makes me smile every time I rev the engine.

Off a 5 year lease and had very low mileage. Looks brand new other than a couple minor scratches in the paint :)

5972528568_5840363749_z.jpg

A3! by punklefish, on Flickr

Currently driving my works car;

post-59941-0-71582200-1311360132.jpg

So much love for it.

Holly Jesus! That is one beautiful Land Rover! I always wanted one of those! :woot:

Here is my beast.

2002 WRX....Currently on COBB Stage 2 pushing around 250 WHP. I ran air ducts from my front bumper to feed cool air into my brakes & intake.

post-169609-0-94869500-1311822651.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I previously owned two VW Corrado's... one with the 2 litre 16V engine, and another with the 2.9 litre VR6 engine. The red one was recently sold on, and the VR6 has been retired to a "weekend" car and is kept garaged now when not in use.

I decided it was time for a nearly new, small car - I was getting fed up of owning old cars, and needing to take them to the shop for work / repairs on a regular basis. I looked around at small cars and then thought about how much I liked the Fiat 500 when it came out. I did a bit more research and found a great example.. 6 months old, only 777 miles on the clock! Purchased, and picked up last week. So far I'm absolutely loving it.

Naturally the 1.2 litre engine is quite slow compared to the 2.9 litre one in the Corrado.. but I was fed up of the high gas prices, and always have the VR6 available whenever I want to drive something with a bit more power.

So my current fleet is:

Corrado VR6

corradoslipway.png

Fiat 500 1.2 Pop

imag0011tp.jpg

2004 Dodge "its still a neon" SRT-4 :laugh: I'm swapping the motor this week because Cyl1 piston is cracked. Good excuse to get another motor to build the current one.

post-163851-0-57085000-1315327521.jpg

2.4L I4 Turbo @ 20PSI

3in Catless straight dump

3in Mopar CAI

AGP WGA

N2MB Boost Box

MPx BFMIC

AGP Upper/Lower hard pipes

HKS SSQV V2

AGP solid motor mounts/tranny mount

MPx underdrive pulley

koni adjustable strut inserts w/camber adjustment

Tein S-Tech lowering springs

poly LCA bushings/sway bushings

Welfare sways (front bar from PT Cruiser GT, Rear bar from SRT-4 ACR edition)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Posts

    • My father still uses a programme written in dbase3. Still manages to work with a little help from dosbox. 
    • Microsoft hides these secret Windows 11 performance boost settings available on every PC by Sayan Sen Windows enthusiasts often look for ways to extract as much performance out of their systems as possible, and it's often the case that they try and do so while trying to minimize the heat and power consumption. This is especially relevant in the case of mobile Windows PCs since laptops and notebooks tend to get hot and management of that heat and power is harder in such a form factor. As such users often turn to techniques like under-volting which can be used to squeeze out the maximum capabilities of a chip while also maintaining lowered power levels. There are official apps from AMD and Intel with the likes of Ryzen Master and XTU (Extreme Tuning Utility). While these are quite handy, most enthusiasts probably prefer to dig into the BIOS and play around with settings there like Curve Optimizer on Ryzen, which lets users set various frequency-voltage scaling values. These are essentially called P-States. If you are not familiar with them, Processor Power Management is done through Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) P-states and C-states. While P-states or performance pwoer states handle CPU voltage-frequency scaling, C-states deal with CPU sleep states so that some of the CPU functions, which are not necessary at that moment, can be disabled. The P-states and C-states work together to make the processor run more efficiently. It helps the OS and apps determine which cores can be parked and which should be boosted. Of course not every user is an enthusiast or knows the technicalities and integrities of how things like overclocking or undervolting work. Thankfully for them Windows itself offers something pretty cool, though it is hidden by default on all systems. By default, Windows only has two P-States, "Minimum Processor State" and "Maximum Processor State." However, this can be changed with a Registry trick to expand the options under a secret "Processor performance boost mode" dropdown. This essentially enables the HWP or hardware P-States available on a device, and these are not controlled just by the OS itself as the underlying hardware gets involved too. In total there are five Processor Performance Boost Mode profiles that control how Windows requests and allows CPU turbo/boost behavior under the different power policies. They are: Disabled: In this mode, processor boosting is effectively turned off. The CPU will avoid entering turbo or boost frequencies and instead operate closer to its base frequency ceiling. This can significantly reduce power consumption and heat output, but at the cost of reduced burst performance and responsiveness in short workloads. Enabled: This is the standard behavior where boost functionality is allowed under normal conditions. The processor can opportunistically increase frequency when workload demands it, balancing performance gains with power and thermal constraints as managed by the system. Aggressive: Aggressive mode favors performance more heavily, allowing the CPU to enter higher boost states more readily and sustain them longer. This should in theory improve responsiveness under bursty or heavy workloads but increases power draw and thermal output compared to the default enabled behavior. Efficient Enabled: This mode still allows boosting, but with a stronger bias toward energy efficiency. The system attempts to use boost more selectively, avoiding unnecessary frequency spikes when the performance gain is marginal. Efficient Aggressive: This is a hybrid approach where boost is still performance-responsive, but the system continuously weighs efficiency more heavily than in Aggressive mode. It aims to deliver noticeable performance improvements while reducing wasted power in less demanding scenarios. Here's how to enable the Processor performance boost mode: Open Registry Editor: Press Win+R, type regedit, and click OK. Go to: HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings\54533251-82be-4824-96c1-47b60b740d00\be337238-0d82-4146-a960-4f3749d470c7 (where HKLM stands for HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE_) Modify the value of Attributes from 1 to 2 (you can find modify option by right-clicking) After that, exit Registry, you should now be able to see the new "Processor performance boost mode" dropdown menu: As you can see there are now five new P-States or CPPC states or power profile available that help define the boost mode processor setting on your PC. Wrapping it up here's a quick run-down of the settings as defined by Microsoft itself. Setting Description Disabled The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is disabled. Collaborative Processor Performance Control (CPPC) behaviour is disabled. Enabled The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is enabled. CPPC behaviour is Efficient Enabled. Aggressive The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is enabled. CPPC behaviour is Aggressive. Efficient Enabled The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is Efficient. CPPC behaviour is Efficient Enabled. Efficient Aggressive The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is Efficient. CPPC behaviour is Aggressive. Aggressive At Guaranteed Windows calculates the desired extra performance above the guaranteed performance level, and asks the processor to deliver that specific performance level. Efficient Aggressive At Guaranteed Windows always asks the processor to deliver the highest possible performance above the guaranteed performance level. In the next part we shall be comparing these settings to explore how much of a benefit or regression they can provide in terms of performance and power efficiency. If you decide to change the values on your system and are experiencing problems like crashes or an overheating PC, make sure to revert the steps back to the original state.
    • I think he means you haven't reviewed previous UFC games. Of course it doesn't matter... Every time you just report on something that involves the President even if just simply what happened you guys usually get accused of being anti-Trump. We live in fun times.
  • Recent Achievements

    • One Month Later
      Leroy Jethro Gibbs earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • Conversation Starter
      flexorcist earned a badge
      Conversation Starter
    • One Month Later
      AndreaB earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • One Month Later
      agatameier earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • Week One Done
      agatameier earned a badge
      Week One Done
  • Popular Contributors

    1. 1
      +primortal
      518
    2. 2
      +Edouard
      198
    3. 3
      PsYcHoKiLLa
      147
    4. 4
      ATLien_0
      93
    5. 5
      Steven P.
      77
  • Tell a friend

    Love Neowin? Tell a friend!