What do you drive?


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I daily drive my boss his 'old' 2011 530d now. It had about 126 000km  when i got it and will use it until the leasing ends in september 2015

 

It has some cool options like:

 

M-sport suspension

Hifi professional

Navigation Professional

Runflat tires

All black interior

 

 

post-43421-0-43748500-1408272857.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Since this topic seems to be kind of the "go-to" topic for talking about our cars, I guess I'll share some photos I took of some maintenance I've been doing on my pickup the past few days.  In the next few days I'm going to flush fresh brake fluid through the pickup, and then start doing some major maintenance on the Ford Taurus.  The brake lines on the Taurus rusted out on me the other day so it's on jack stands in-op at the moment, and when I took off one back wheel I noticed one of the springs had broken, so I'm gonna be banging on it for a while after I do the brake fluid on the truck.

 

1999 Dodge Dakota

3.9L V-6

211,654 miles

 

Flushed the radiator out and re-filled it with fresh fluid, cracked open the differential and checked out the gears, cleaned and painted the cover, then put on a fresh gasket and filled it with new fluid.  I drained the manual transmission oil and put fresh in it.  I took off my brake drums to check the brake pads (I've got discs in front, drums in back) and painted the drums and the axle end cap since they both had a little bit of surface rust starting to appear.  I even drained and re-filled my washer fluid reservoir with a bottle of orange RainX brand fluid that's supposed to be a de-icer (down to -35), bug gut and water repellent.

 

Some of the jobs I did because I had never personally done them since owning the vehicle, and some of them were just in preparation for the cold months approaching because I hate having to get outside and mess with stuff when it's cold outside.

 

Anyway, here's some pictures I took.  You can click on the pictures for full size photos, I just didn't want to blow up everybody's browsers.

 

Some of my tools laid out with the differential cover.

th_P8250111.jpg

 

Got to take a look at the inside of a limited slip differential for the first time ever in my life.  There were no chipped teeth, no metal chunks, etc.  This was actually a much easier job than I thought.  The only real hard part was scraping off all the old gasket material before applying the new one and putting it all back together.

th_P8250106.jpg

 

I scraped the cover clean since it had dirt, tar, and rust all over it, then painted it flat black and painted the fill plug red.  Once I put it on with the fresh gasket, I painted the bolts flat black as well.  Looking back, my buddy told me the bolts may have looked better as red.

th_P8250123.jpg

 

Here's the brake drums after their first coat of paint.  I added a 2nd coat and let that dry good before putting them back on.

th_P8250108.jpg

 

Here's the brake drum put back on with the axle end-cap painted flat black.  May also help keep wheels from corroding and sticking on there as well in the future.

th_P8250120.jpg

 

Here's the brake drums with a tire hung on the lug bolts.  It's not actually tightened down if it looks a little crooked, I just sat it on there to see how the drum looked.

th_P8250121.jpg

Since this topic seems to be kind of the "go-to" topic for talking about our cars, I guess I'll share some photos I took of some maintenance I've been doing on my pickup the past few days.  In the next few days I'm going to flush fresh brake fluid through the pickup, and then start doing some major maintenance on the Ford Taurus.  The brake lines on the Taurus rusted out on me the other day so it's on jack stands in-op at the moment, and when I took off one back wheel I noticed one of the springs had broken, so I'm gonna be banging on it for a while after I do the brake fluid on the truck.

 

1999 Dodge Dakota

3.9L V-6

211,654 miles

 

Flushed the radiator out and re-filled it with fresh fluid, cracked open the differential and checked out the gears, cleaned and painted the cover, then put on a fresh gasket and filled it with new fluid.  I drained the manual transmission oil and put fresh in it.  I took off my brake drums to check the brake pads (I've got discs in front, drums in back) and painted the drums and the axle end cap since they both had a little bit of surface rust starting to appear.  I even drained and re-filled my washer fluid reservoir with a bottle of orange RainX brand fluid that's supposed to be a de-icer (down to -35), bug gut and water repellent.

 

Some of the jobs I did because I had never personally done them since owning the vehicle, and some of them were just in preparation for the cold months approaching because I hate having to get outside and mess with stuff when it's cold outside.

 

Anyway, here's some pictures I took.  You can click on the pictures for full size photos, I just didn't want to blow up everybody's browsers.

 

Some of my tools laid out with the differential cover.

th_P8250111.jpg

 

Got to take a look at the inside of a limited slip differential for the first time ever in my life.  There were no chipped teeth, no metal chunks, etc.  This was actually a much easier job than I thought.  The only real hard part was scraping off all the old gasket material before applying the new one and putting it all back together.

th_P8250106.jpg

 

I scraped the cover clean since it had dirt, tar, and rust all over it, then painted it flat black and painted the fill plug red.  Once I put it on with the fresh gasket, I painted the bolts flat black as well.  Looking back, my buddy told me the bolts may have looked better as red.

th_P8250123.jpg

 

Here's the brake drums after their first coat of paint.  I added a 2nd coat and let that dry good before putting them back on.

th_P8250108.jpg

 

Here's the brake drum put back on with the axle end-cap painted flat black.  May also help keep wheels from corroding and sticking on there as well in the future.

th_P8250120.jpg

 

Here's the brake drums with a tire hung on the lug bolts.  It's not actually tightened down if it looks a little crooked, I just sat it on there to see how the drum looked.

th_P8250121.jpg

wow, wish I could do all that!

Just recorded this yesterday.  This may benefit those of you who drive a manual transmission.  Obviously the exact location and size of bolts on your particular vehicle may vary, as well as the exact amount and type of oil to use, and how often it should be changed, but this video is meant to serve as a general over-view of how to change the gear lubricant in a manual transmission.  For instructions specific to your vehicle, I recommend picking up the Chilton or Haynes manual for your car from your local parts store.  They usually run $20-$30, but they will tell you anything and everything you will ever need to know about your vehicle from the torque specifications for every bolt on it, to how often to change your various fluids, etc.

 

If your boss is a pansy, there's one or two occurrences of language that may be considered NSFW.

 

  • Like 1

Cleaning up and winterizing my wife's Ford Taurus.  Painted her brake drums purple, getting ready to put fresh brake pads on the back, and had to install a new coil pack because the old one was going bad and causing it to drop a couple of cylinders if you hit the gas to take off.  I replaced the spark plugs just for the heck of it, but the ones that were in it looked fine except for one of them that was in the cylinder that was misfiring because of the bad coil.  Just to be safe though, I went ahead and replaced all the plugs and put the new coil pack in and it seems to be idling just fine now.  Won't be able to take it for a test drive until I finish my evening bus run and put the new brake pads on the back, but so far no check engine codes in the computer.  Also sanded/cleaned the battery terminals and cables and spritzed them with anti-corrosion goop.

 

I am a tad concerned about the brake drums.  I couldn't find any purple high temperature paint, so I just got Krylon paint+primer.  The brake drums in my pickup don't get hot, but I also do about 75% of my stopping by just down-shifting and don't use the brakes until the last bit.  In an automatic, you don't really have a choice, you kinda have to use your brakes for all of your stopping, so they might get hot enough to burn this paint off, not sure.  We'll see I guess.

 

Top down view of the engine with the new coil pack (the thing where all the spark plug wires plug in)

post-125978-0-97737500-1409854334.jpg

 

The purple brake drums.

post-125978-0-51973500-1409854353.jpg

  • Like 1

FINALLY!

 

Got my wife's Ford Taurus squared away today.

 

2006 Ford Taurus

3.0 litre V-6

171,000 miles

 

Have had one headache after another with this car.  Finally got it all up and running this evening.  Had to replace brake lines a week or two ago cause' some of them rusted out.  Then she wanted her drums painted purple, so I decided to oblige.  Well when I took one of the drums off I discovered one of the brake shoes was cracked in half, so I went ahead and replaced all 4 of the rear brake shoes (disc brakes on front).  Not only that, but when I took it out to test the replaced brake lines, I discovered that it had a new problem, a miss on one of the cylinders.  Based on its behavior I figured it was a bad coil, so I replaced the coil, and also replaced all 6 spark plugs because when I checked them before while diagnosing the issue, one of them was burned pretty bad (the mis-firing cylinder), so when I replaced the coil I replaced the spark plugs as well.

 

So today I replaced the coil, replaced all 6 spark plugs, replaced all 4 rear brake shoes, and painted her brake drums purple.  Just took it out for a test drive, and it's awesome, drives like a brand new car.

 

The new brake pads mounted, and the broken one in my hand.

post-125978-0-78703600-1409881281.jpg

 

First brake drum mounted after being painted.  I also painted the axle end-cap flat black to try and prevent the wheel from corroding/rusting to it.

post-125978-0-09792600-1409881295.jpg

 

First wheel mounted after being painted.

post-125978-0-70739000-1409881304.jpg

FINALLY!

 

Got my wife's Ford Taurus squared away today.

 

2006 Ford Taurus

3.0 litre V-6

171,000 miles

 

Have had one headache after another with this car.  Finally got it all up and running this evening.  Had to replace brake lines a week or two ago cause' some of them rusted out.  Then she wanted her drums painted purple, so I decided to oblige.  Well when I took one of the drums off I discovered one of the brake shoes was cracked in half, so I went ahead and replaced all 4 of the rear brake shoes (disc brakes on front).  Not only that, but when I took it out to test the replaced brake lines, I discovered that it had a new problem, a miss on one of the cylinders.  Based on its behavior I figured it was a bad coil, so I replaced the coil, and also replaced all 6 spark plugs because when I checked them before while diagnosing the issue, one of them was burned pretty bad (the mis-firing cylinder), so when I replaced the coil I replaced the spark plugs as well.

 

So today I replaced the coil, replaced all 6 spark plugs, replaced all 4 rear brake shoes, and painted her brake drums purple.  Just took it out for a test drive, and it's awesome, drives like a brand new car.

 

The new brake pads mounted, and the broken one in my hand.

attachicon.gifbroken-pad.jpg

 

First brake drum mounted after being painted.  I also painted the axle end-cap flat black to try and prevent the wheel from corroding/rusting to it.

attachicon.gifdrum-mounted.jpg

 

First wheel mounted after being painted.

attachicon.giffinal.jpg

Confess, you're just posting this to make us all feel useless and worthless :P

Confess, you're just posting this to make us all feel useless and worthless :p

Nah not really.  I've been taking all these pictures to share on Facebook anyway, so I figured I'd post them here in the "car" topic as well, :P

Nissan 350gt - think of it as a 350z with two extra seats, although mine was sold in Japan with 'skyline' branding. Its also sold under the Infiniti arm of Nissan as the g35

 

I've swapped out the standard rear bumper for a replica of the 'ken style' rear, an option available at factory

 

WP_20140830_11_26_23_Pro.jpgWP_20131122_004.jpg

  • Like 2

Nissan 350gt - think of it as a 350z with two extra seats, although mine was sold in Japan with 'skyline' branding. Its also sold under the Infiniti arm of Nissan as the g35

 

I've swapped out the standard rear bumper for a replica of the 'ken style' rear, an option available at factory

 

Images snipped

 

Looks sharp, :-)

  • 2 weeks later...

Started work on re-painting mine today.  Using Krylon Dual Paint+Primer True Blue Gloss.  It was T-boned at one point so the driver's door is actually from one vehicle, and the driver's side fender is from a different one, so the door was green, the fender was silver, and the rest of the truck was blue.  I used my tail-gate as a test bed just to see what it looked like since it's a work truck cause' the tail-gate will get beat up anyway.  Total amount of money spent on the painting job so far, including tape and stuff, about $15.  I had tried re-painting the door/fender with "Dupli Color", but the stuff was bad to splatter and run, and the Krylon seems to work 100% better.

 

All photos can be clicked to enlarge.

 

It's a 1999 Dodge Dakota Sport.  Here's a photo I took today of the front fender on the passenger side to show what it's "supposed" to look like.

th_original-color.jpg

 

Here's what the driver's side looked like a couple of years ago when I first got the truck before I started working on it and fixing it up.

th_DSCF1537.jpg

 

Here's the tail-gate sanded and stenciled with painter's tape.

th_tailgate-sanded.jpg

 

First coat of paint on the tailgate.

th_tailgate-painted.jpg

 

Tried painting the letters by spraying red paint into a bowl and spreading it on with a q-tip, but the paint dried too fast when I tried spraying it into a bowl, so I instead just made a stencil and painted over it.

th_P9210012.jpg

 

Tailgate done and put back on.

th_P9210017.jpg

 

My buddy Wes working the sander and re-discovering the original color of the door.

th_P9210001.jpg

 

Me working the sander for a while.

th_P9210003.jpg

 

Applying paint to the door.  After doing 3 coats on the tailgate, we only had enough to do about half the door, so I'll pick up a couple more cans and blend in to finish the lower half, fender, and the rest of the truck.  The color is close enough that I'm happy so I'll do the door and fender first, but then I'm gonna do the whole rest of the truck cause' the old paint looks pretty rough in places, plus it is a little bit different with a little bit of a glittery effect, so I'm going to re-do the entire truck in this one uniform color.

th_P9210014.jpg

 

Edit: Here's the paint I'm using.

th_P9210012-1.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

2013 Mercedes-Benz C300.

 

Also my first car. Just purchased it today in fact.

 

mkemWe7l.jpg

Edited by LogicalApex

2013 Mercedes-Benz C300.

 

Also my first car. Just purchased it today in fact.

 

attachicon.gif2014-10-04.jpg

you image is too large and does not resize well...

 

i like the newer merc designs a lot.     what is it, white and basic package?      c300 is nice for a first car :)    i guess you did not need a car before?

2013 Mercedes-Benz C300.

Also my first car. Just purchased it today in fact.

attachicon.gif2014-10-04.jpg

Nice ride. I have a 2014 E550 in the same color that I picked up in July. Hope you got a good deal on maintenance. It's a bank account murderer without it. ;-)
  • Like 3

Nice ride. I have a 2014 E550 in the same color that I picked up in July. Hope you got a good deal on maintenance. It's a bank account murderer without it. ;-)

Didn't add that yet... Will get some quotes lined up to get it sorted.

Didn't add that yet... Will get some quotes lined up to get it sorted.

Yeah work out some kind of maintenance deal.  I've never owned one, but I've heard that parts and labor are both fairly expensive for Mercs and BMW because of how difficult they are to work on.

 

It looks like a sharp car, congrats on your first one, :-)

Nice ride. I have a 2014 E550 in the same color that I picked up in July. Hope you got a good deal on maintenance. It's a bank account murderer without it. ;-)

Congrats! The new E550's are nice, and I love them in coupe form. They are quite fast and very discrete. Yes to maintenance and repairs - they can be expensive. I've had a dealer repair on my old CLS 63 that was quoted at $8k! If you are out of warranty, try to find a nice reputable shop that you can go to rather than the dealer. 

you image is too large and does not resize well...

 

i like the newer merc designs a lot.     what is it, white and basic package?      c300 is nice for a first car :)    i guess you did not need a car before?

 

Updated the post with a smaller image. Should have done that from the start, but I guess the forum uploader no longer does the automatic scaling.

 

Yeah work out some kind of maintenance deal.  I've never owned one, but I've heard that parts and labor are both fairly expensive for Mercs and BMW because of how difficult they are to work on.

 

It looks like a sharp car, congrats on your first one, :-)

Thanks!

 

Looking into quotes on the maintenance now. I was quoted a high price at the dealer on a plan from VehicleOne. I passed on that as I wanted to get more details and so far I'm seeing a better deal extending directly with Mercedes so I'll likely go that route.

 

My Wife thinks I'm nuts as I've been against owning a car forever (hence my late addition to the car owner club). But hopefully it works out well for us and I can get advice from the seasoned members here.

Nice ride. I have a 2014 E550 in the same color that I picked up in July. Hope you got a good deal on maintenance. It's a bank account murderer without it. ;-)

Finally got the maintenance sorted out. The dealer offered a plan backed by Ally for almost $4K for 5 years/75K miles. I wasn't keen to taking that on the spot so declined, especially since third party warranties can be a nightmare with exclusions (or so I hear). Found a good price at a MB dealer for the MB direct extended warranty. Paid a little under $3K to push me up to 7 years/100K miles bumper to bumper. Which is great as I learned that the Ally backed plan (VehicleOne) excluded almost all of the electronics in the car...

 

Seems like a good price for the insurance especially since I purchased a former rental car. Also nice to know OEM only parts will be used.

  • Like 2

Finally got the maintenance sorted out. The dealer offered a plan backed by Ally for almost $4K for 5 years/75K miles. I wasn't keen to taking that on the spot so declined, especially since third party warranties can be a nightmare with exclusions (or so I hear). Found a good price at a MB dealer for the MB direct extended warranty. Paid a little under $3K to push me up to 7 years/100K miles bumper to bumper. Which is great as I learned that the Ally backed plan (VehicleOne) excluded almost all of the electronics in the car...

 

Seems like a good price for the insurance especially since I purchased a former rental car. Also nice to know OEM only parts will be used.

Glad you got it all sorted out, :-)  I purchased a 3rd party extended warranty for my 2006 Ford Explorer, and then the throttle position sensor went out (random acceleration, or random dying, etc.).  I never bothered actually "reading" the warranty, it just came as a package deal with the bank that financed the purchase, but when I tried calling to get that and a number of other small issues fixed over the years, I discovered that the extended warranty only covered the drive train (engine, transmission, differentials, transfer case, and drive shaft components).  None of the electronics, body, suspension, frame, or anything like that was covered.  Wish I'd paid more attention.

 

On a side note, I FINALLY got around to changing the valve seals on my pickup truck.  I've been talking about doing it for a year or so and finally got up with a buddy of mine who has a shop air compressor and changed all of my valve seals.  I've had a leaky one on cylinder 3 for the longest time that would cause a short puff of blue smoke on startup, and I've been talking about changing the valve seals for a year or so and finally got around to doing it.  Also in the process of doing that, I tightened down on my rocker cap screws with a torque wrench set to the factory spec and that eliminated a slight "rattle" I've been hearing for the longest time that almost made the engine sound like a miniature diesel.  One of the push rods probably had a thousandth of an inch of slop where it disengaged the rocker and would then "smack" it when it came back up, and by tearing it all apart to replace the valve seals and re-torquing everything to the factory specs, I eliminated that small amount of play.

 

I'm just really glad I got that one job out of the way before really cold weather hit, I was getting pretty tired of burning an extra quart of oil between oil changes.  I would have taken pictures, but neither me or the guy whose shop I used had ever done it before, and I really didn't want to go taking pictures and videos of any screw ups that happened in the course of doing it for the first time.  We ended up not having any issues except having to fanagle the little valve spring keepers back into position with an extendable magnet rod, which we expected because of the nature of how they work, but it was a really time consuming job (4-5 hours) and once I got elbow deep in my engine bay I didn't feel like digging out the camera to take pictures.

Started work on re-painting mine today.  Using Krylon Dual Paint+Primer True Blue Gloss.  It was T-boned at one point so the driver's door is actually from one vehicle, and the driver's side fender is from a different one, so the door was green, the fender was silver, and the rest of the truck was blue.  I used my tail-gate as a test bed just to see what it looked like since it's a work truck cause' the tail-gate will get beat up anyway.  Total amount of money spent on the painting job so far, including tape and stuff, about $15.  I had tried re-painting the door/fender with "Dupli Color", but the stuff was bad to splatter and run, and the Krylon seems to work 100% better.

 

All photos can be clicked to enlarge.

 

It's a 1999 Dodge Dakota Sport.  Here's a photo I took today of the front fender on the passenger side to show what it's "supposed" to look like.

th_original-color.jpg

 

Here's what the driver's side looked like a couple of years ago when I first got the truck before I started working on it and fixing it up.

th_DSCF1537.jpg

 

Here's the tail-gate sanded and stenciled with painter's tape.

th_tailgate-sanded.jpg

 

First coat of paint on the tailgate.

th_tailgate-painted.jpg

 

Tried painting the letters by spraying red paint into a bowl and spreading it on with a q-tip, but the paint dried too fast when I tried spraying it into a bowl, so I instead just made a stencil and painted over it.

th_P9210012.jpg

 

Tailgate done and put back on.

th_P9210017.jpg

 

My buddy Wes working the sander and re-discovering the original color of the door.

th_P9210001.jpg

 

Me working the sander for a while.

th_P9210003.jpg

 

Applying paint to the door.  After doing 3 coats on the tailgate, we only had enough to do about half the door, so I'll pick up a couple more cans and blend in to finish the lower half, fender, and the rest of the truck.  The color is close enough that I'm happy so I'll do the door and fender first, but then I'm gonna do the whole rest of the truck cause' the old paint looks pretty rough in places, plus it is a little bit different with a little bit of a glittery effect, so I'm going to re-do the entire truck in this one uniform color.

th_P9210014.jpg

 

Edit: Here's the paint I'm using.

th_P9210012-1.jpg

Dude... every time you post... My car has a couple of bicycle scratches... you make me feel useless :( Would you consider coming down to Honduras, Central america, with material included :P when ever I can afford you :laugh: 

Dude... every time you post... My car has a couple of bicycle scratches... you make me feel useless :( Would you consider coming down to Honduras, Central america, with material included :p when ever I can afford you :laugh:

 

Depends on how deep the scratches are....

 

if they are light scratches, you can buff it out with a buffer or get a touch-up paint kit. 

 

If they are deep scratches, you can sand it down and prime it up, then paint it.. a few times.. then put clearcoat over it. There are videos on how to do this at YouTube.

 

If you want a new color on your whole car, you can get PlastiDip paint... Spray over the current color... and you won't worry about at all. You can find information about plastidip car via Google or YouTube.  Depends on what color you have right now on your car... PlastiDip may have the color that match yours... if so, you can paint one part of the car instead of whole car.

  • Like 2

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Processor 8-core Qualcomm Snapdragon 690 (QTI SM6350) 2 performance cores at 2.07 GHz 4 efficiency cores at 1.71 GHz Memory 6 GB Storage 128GB, non-expandable ~104GB available out-of-the-box Operating system Android 15 with a custom launcher Connectivity Wi-Fi and Bluetooth Battery 3,950 mAh battery Buttons and port USB Type-C port Power button, Volume button, Smart Dial Breathing Lights Audio Mono Speaker and Dual microphones In the box The Krono, a Type-A to Type-C cable, user manual Price $279 on Amazon First impressions Right off the bat, no, this is not a phone replacement. Do not approach this device thinking it can serve you as a dumb phone to cure your TikTok addiction. In addition to the fact that the Krono has no cellular connectivity, I strongly believe that no amount of extra devices can fix your phone addiction until you put some serious effort into it. The Krono is a phone-sized e-reader, a companion for your phone dedicated to reading without distractions. The DuRoBo Krono is made of plastic with a very fine texture. It is hardly premium, but I also cannot say it feels cheap. The device is also a bit thick, quite dense, and well-built without rattling or cracking. You get to choose between two colors: white and black. The front has quite thick bezels, which is hardly surprising for an e-ink device. These things use front light, with LEDs usually placed on the screen perimeter. While I do not mind thicker bezels, the notably larger chin cheapens the look a little. What I mind is a notable seam between the display and the main case, which, after just two days of use, collected plenty of dust and specks. The back of the Krono is what makes the device stand out. There is a cylinder (DuRoBo calls it the Axis) embedded in the back of the reader, housing three elements: a power button on the right edge, a Smart Dial on the left edge, and "Breathing Lights" on the back. An etched DuRoBo logo sits below the cylinder, and it is the only piece of branding you can find on the device. Overall, the design and materials are very unassuming, but the cylinder with additional control elements certainly elevates the look and makes it more interesting. Other physical elements include two microphones (one on the top edge and one on the bottom edge), a USB Type-C port, a volume rocker, and a single mono speaker. There is no fingerprint reader, so if you want to protect your device, a PIN is your only option. The official TPU case is not the most premium-looking Display The Krono has a 6.1-inch E-Ink Carta 1200 touchscreen display with a resolution of 1,648 x 824 pixels (300 ppi). The display is front-lit, and you can adjust the brightness and temperature from cool to warm. Unfortunately, the Krono lacks automatic brightness and temperature adjustments, and you cannot set a custom schedule for the frontlight. However, you can set it to always enable frontlight so that you can see what is happening on the screen when turning it on in a dark environment. On the bright side (get it?), the front light can get extremely dim so that the screen is barely readable in a pitch-dark room. The front light is also uniform across the screen, with no noticeable temperature gradients. I am very susceptible to uneven front light, and it is very easy for me to notice it, but the Krono is doing a very good job in this area. I also like that the edge shadow is not very prominent and barely visible in the black variant. E-Ink Carta 1200 is not the newest generation (there are Carta 1250 and 1300), but it is still a good display. It supports three modes: Clarity, Speed, and Quality. In Clarity mode, text is very sharp and easy to read, but you trade that for more ghosting, a slower refresh rate, and more artifacts when the display changes images. Speed mode, as the name suggests, boosts refresh rate and reduces ghosting, but fine print and text become more jagged. Finally, Quality mode is only available in Android apps. It has the lowest refresh rate, but in return, you get much better visuals, improved gradients, and more. Like brightness and temperature, you can toggle modes from the control center. It is available when swiping from the top-right corner of the screen (the top-left is for notifications). I also like that the Krono can work as a desk clock when not in use. It has a bunch of screensavers, including horizontal clocks with time, date, and current battery level. The screen refreshes once per minute, and battery drain is extremely low (not even 1% in 24 hours). It is a great use of the technology, and another thing I wish more e-ink devices featured. Smart Dial The Smart Dial is Krono's main party trick. It sits on the left side of the device and serves multiple purposes. You can twist or press it to perform various actions, depending on the current use case scenario. When reading books, twisting the dial flips through pages, and pressing it refreshes the screen. On the home screen, the dial adjusts the brightness, and holding the dial pressed launches voice note recording. Finally, a quick double press launches the DuRoBo AI chatbot. While the dial scroll is not notched, it is very smooth and has haptic feedback that confirms your actions, which feels very nice. As a long-term Apple Watch user, I love the idea behind the dial. It feels very natural and oddly satisfying to use, especially with that subtle haptic feedback. I never liked flipping pages with touch input, and I strongly believe each e-reader should come with some sort of physical controls for turning pages. The Krono has both volume buttons (which also work as page turners) and the dial, so you are free to use whichever you prefer. With that said, the dial is not perfect. For one, it sticks out of the case way too far for my liking, raising concerns about durability and longevity when carrying the Krono around in a pocket (it is a pocket-sized device after all). Also, it has too much wobble, which cheapens the experience and makes it feel a bit flimsy and unsecured. While there are two plastic guards on the Krono's case, they are way too small for any kind of protection. I also think DuRoBo should let users customize dial actions (the only available customization is scroll direction), particularly for long and double presses. Not everyone needs voice notes, and DuRoBo AI does not work without an active internet connection, leaving the long press essentially useless when offline. I do not mind these features, and I genuinely think they are useful, but I would rather have the ability to toggle between screen modes, turn the frontlight on/off, or launch my favorite app. I also agree with people on Reddit asking developers to let users adjust the dial sensitivity. I hope this is something DuRoBo can implement with a software update to make the experience more personalized (it is a Smart Dial, after all) and incentivize users to fiddle with the Dial more often. The Dial is a fantastic idea, so please, guys, improve it a little. As for ergonomics, they are mostly fine, but the dial's position may feel a little awkward and way too high. When I use a phone or a phone-sized gadget, I tend to rest one of its corners on my palm for a more secure grip. With the Krono, such a grip is impossible because you cannot reach the dial even with big hands. You have to lower the reader a bit and hold it like a bottle without any extra support for the bottom edge. Such a grip is not necessarily uncomfortable (the Krono is also light enough for it), but it requires a bit of muscle retraining. Sometimes, I do not bother with the dial and hold the Krono like my phone, flipping through pages with volume buttons, as they are perfectly positioned for my right-hand thumb. Interestingly, when testing the Krono, I would often find myself thinking that a roller embedded in the long plastic cylinder on the back of the device would have been a much more comfortable solution. There is a free idea for you, guys. Software The Krono runs Android 15 with a very minimal launcher on top. The home screen presents you with a list of apps, a scrollable list of widgets, and your user profile. Widgets can display time, calendar, or recent books for quick access. You can also add or remove apps from the home screen to keep the most useful stuff around without tapping "Apps." I like this minimalistic approach; it looks clean, easy to understand, and light. I understand that some may find the list of all apps way too clean, but fortunately, DuRoBo lets you switch to traditional icons. The reader also has a bunch of preinstalled apps: Read: The default app for reading. Browser: A Chromium-based browser. Files: A simple file manager. Music: A simple music player. Spark: A voice recorder with transcription support and AI summarization DuRoBo AI: A built-in AI chatbot. Transfer: An app for file transfer over Wi-Fi. If that is not enough, there is the Google Play Store, where you can download all the extra apps you need, alternative readers, podcast apps, chatbots, and more. DuRoBo is not trying to give you an all-in-one device. The standard software experience is quite minimal, which makes it easy to approach and learn. The standard reader supports EPUB, EPUB3, AZW3, MOBI, PDF, TXT, DOC, and DOCX, which is more than enough to let you read most books without third-party software. As for customizing the reading experience, you can select one of five built-in fonts, adjust size and thickness, adjust margins and spacing (only three variants for each), change text alignment and direction, toggle the reading status bar, and switch to dark mode. There is also text-to-speech, which utilizes Android's default TTS tech. While I like the simplistic approach, I cannot help but feel DuRoBo could have made the built-in reader a bit more customizable. However, I am not going to bog down on this, as you can always install any other reader you prefer using the Play Store or by sideloading an APK. Getting books to the Krono is very simple. Given that the device is an Android smartphone without cellular connectivity, you can transfer files via a USB Type-C cable, download them using the built-in browser, share them over Bluetooth, or use cloud storage. My favorite was the built-in Transfer app. It is simple, reliable, and very well-designed. I was surprised by how well-designed the web portal is. It is fast, pretty, and properly categorized. Well done! Once you have your books loaded, you can highlight or underline text, add annotations, bookmark pages, check the table of contents, and ask AI about the selected text. Unfortunately, the Krono has no built-in vocabulary, but again, that is something a third-party reader could fix. Overall, the built-in reader is light and snappy, with just the minimum amount of features for a regular user to enjoy reading books. The Krono has no built-in reading tracking, so stat nerds will have to look for third-party reading apps. However, you can set a daily reading goal, and the reader will notify you when you reach it (for example, one hour). You can also set a reminder to read at a certain time, and when the time comes, the Krono will light up its back LEDs and unlock itself to nudge you. Other than that, the rear LEDs do nothing, not even showing charging progress, which is an unfortunate misopportunity if you ask me. Quirks aside, Krono's Android runs quite snappily and bug-free. Early reviews of the Krono criticized its Android 13-based software quite a lot, but now, the reader runs Android 15, and its software has fixed plenty of initial complaints. I never experienced any issues with built-in apps. AI attempts The DuRoBo Krono comes with a built-in AI chatbot. There is no information on what model powers this thing, but the system says it was "trained by Google." You can launch the bot from the app list or by double-pressing the dial. It works just like any other chatbot, and you can ask it anything by typing or using voice input. The AI saves your chats, and you can rename, export, or delete them. DuRoBo AI requires an active internet connection, and it does not work offline. Its reach and capabilities are also limited. You can only chat in the app and use it in the reader app as a makeshift vocabulary. However, the implementation is kinda awkward. You can only send a selected portion of text to AI without giving it any requests or instructions. I highlighted the word "dumb," and it apologized to me for not being useful. You also cannot ask follow-up questions or send the generated response to a separate chat. The chatbot is also slow, even with fast Wi-Fi, making the overall experience quite frustrating, which makes me again wish for the ability to remap the double press to something else. Spark, the standard voice recording app, also uses AI for note summarization and transcribing. Neither feature works offline, unfortunately. Spark records notes up to 30 minutes using Krono's dual microphones, and you can rename or export notes. Transcription quality is decent, and the speed is alright, but you can find much better solutions in the Google Play Store. What I like about Spark is that transcribed notes are not locked, and you can always type more to elaborate on your ideas, which is handy. Overall, I like that the Krono is not shoving AI down my throat, but to be honest, there is really not that much to shove. AI features here feel raw and need improvements to be more useful. Battery Life Like most E-Ink readers, the Krono has fantastic battery life. Even with a clock as a screensaver, its standby power consumption is incredibly low. And when in use, you can get weeks of reading on a single charge. Without the front light, my unit never sipped more than one or two percent of battery during a one-hour reading session. It was nice to see plenty of battery-related settings. You can limit charging at 80% to protect battery health long-term, check the number of charging cycles, manufacturing/first-time use date, battery health, and the maximum capacity. Additionally, the Krono lets you select what hardware remains enabled when sleeping. This lets you keep Wi-Fi and Bluetooth on (say, if you want to receive notifications, for some reason) and keep audio playing when locked. Turning these features off effectively eliminates any standby battery drain. I left my Krono sitting for 24 hours with a clock screensaver on, and it did not drop a single percent. The pretty big 3,950 mAh battery justifies the device's thickness and ensures you do not have to charge it for long periods. Speaking of charging, it is capped at only 10W, which is a bit disappointing, as getting such a big battery to 100% takes a notably long time in the era of super-fast charging smartphones. DuRoBo Moodi The Moodi is a standalone, optional accessory for your Krono. It is a wireless remote with two customizable buttons that you can use to flip pages, control media, or scroll webpages. The accessory connects via Bluetooth. Despite having a built-in rechargeable battery, it is extremely light. While the Moodi's shape and form factor is not what I would call particularly ergonomic, it is not uncomfortable to hold and use. The Moodi comes with six removable magnetic buttons with various smiley faces. Buttons sit securely, and they have nice-feeling, albeit a little loud, clicks. It is a cute touch that adds a little more fun and character to the device. There is also an accented power button and a single status LED. The latter displays charging status and connection mode. The Moodi supports three modes: Reading: Buttons work as volume buttons, allowing you to flip pages in the built-in reader or other apps that support page turning with volume buttons. Media: Buttons work as skip forward/backward, which is useful when listening to audiobooks, podcasts, or music. Scroll: The third mode lets you scroll pages in the web browser or any other application The Krono properly detects the Moodi and presents you with an on-screen guide when you connect it for the first time (it also displays the battery level). However, you can only change modes by holding both buttons for a few seconds. It is also worth noting that the Moodi works with other devices. I connected it to my iPhone and it let me adjust volume or control media playback. Sadly, the scroll did not work, so you cannot use it to waste time scrolling TikToks. Overall, the Moodi is a cute little accessory, which I can recommend for those who read a lot. It is very useful for remote page flipping when you do not want to burden your hands by holding the Krono all the time. I only wish DuRoBo included a lanyard for the built-in loop. As for the battery life, after using the Moodi for a few days, I only managed to drop several percent of its 90 mAh battery. Despite the small size, it is rated for weeks of use, which is pretty impressive. At $35.99, I cannot say the Moodi is a must-have accessory, but I see the appeal. I prefer using the Krono with its Smart Dial, as I rarely read for more than 40-60 minutes in one sitting. However, if you have a stand and like reading for long periods, the Moodi is the right thing to have. It is a bit more expensive than regular page flippers on Amazon, but it is on par with similar products from Kobo or BOOX. Plus, it has a little more fun to it with removable buttons and better integration into the Krono. Conclusion At the end of the day, DuRoBo Krono is a nice pocket-sized e-reader. Its software focuses on the main things without trying to be everything at once. The smart dial idea is unique and great, and I wish more manufacturers had something similar in their devices. The display is also good, with an even frontlight and "always-on" support. I did not notice any deal-breaking issues with the Krono. However, you can feel that the idea needs some improvements, such as a slightly stiffer dial in a more ergonomic location, perhaps a little more premium materials, and better software customization. I hope the company won't give up on the idea and improve the dial and ergonomics in the second generation. Buy DuRoBo Krono Black - $279.99 on Amazon Buy DuRoBo Krono White - $279.99 on Amazon Buy DuRoBo Moodi - $35.99 on Amazon As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
    • In what way is any of what I said incorrect? To install an update you need to close all browser instances, upping it from once a month to once a fortnight is an inconvenience for users. Particularly when updates don't offer functionality that users want (notably copilot). Security updates should come as they are needed, not on a release schedule
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