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In cost versus performance, I've never valued high definition enough that would make it worth purchasing at this point in time. Largely, there is simply not enough of a perceived difference for me to increase my level of entertainment. I do notice a slight change in quality, but it is hardly worth the price to me for that slightness. Keep in mind, I do sell electronics, especially high definition televisions, and I am aware of the details.

This is pointless. You will NOT need to upgrade to HD in 2009, your old tv's will work fine. If you don't want an HD tv don't ****ing get one. Simple as that.

Digital != HD

True, but old tv's will only work if you buy a digital converter box, or if the television has an atsc tuner built in.

BTW, no one here failed to mention the problems HDTVs have. My uncle bought one 5 months ago and ever since then, he's had nothing but problems. Sometimes, he gets picture with no sound or sound with no picture. And very frequently, his HD cable freezes. He's been whining about the hassle for so long. Looks to me like a lot of trouble.

That's why you look for a good name brand as well as reviews. Should you have any issues from there, you call up the manufacturer. This is the same procedure with any product. I don't understand the argument you're trying bring here. Your uncle had some problems so all HDTVs are bad? Man, if I applied that idea to.. well, any product, I wouldn't buy anything!

HDTVs are not bad and not that much more expensive honestly. I'm currently looking at getting a new TV myself and was amazed by some of the deals I could find.

If you don't care for the picture quality and don't need a TV, then don't worry about it. It's merely a step up in the technology world as Audioboxer stated. I don't know about you, but I don't want to be using the same quality of technology we have now 10+ years down the line.

I repeat. You people must have pretty bad SDTVs because mine aren't that blurry.

Your missing the point... more pixels = better detail, wider view, etc...

I notice the best of HD when watching art shows... where you can really see the detail. Nature shows on NATGeo are also stunning.

Another example I like to use is a house. On the news when watching standard definition you really can't see the siding unless really zoomed in. On HD you can be conisderably far away from the house and see each row of siding.

Sports also are great... we'll use basketball as the example. Lets bring that wider view in... instead of seeing just some of the court... your seeing the whole thing... the whole picture. So in other words... it's like being there.

Not to mention the color on an HD is a ton more vivid.

Don't even get me started on the advantages of sound etc... when it comes to bluray etc.

Another annoyance with SD 4:3 tubes are the 16x9 widescreen bars. Shows like conan and jay leno fill that are recorded in 16:9 fill the entire screen with HD...

But it looks like your so stuck on SD you refuse to see the advantages. Well hope you enjoy your new SD tube... while I enjoy my HD flat panel watching shows and having that feeling of being right there in the action.

But now that you have been corrected... you are only responding to the posts where people agree with you.

You will have to excuse me. This thread gets 100 posts per minute so I can only respond to selected posts.

That's why you look for a good name brand as well as reviews. Should you have any issues from there, you call up the manufacturer. This is the same procedure with any product. I don't understand the argument you're trying bring here. Your uncle had some problems so all HDTVs are bad? Man, if I applied that idea to.. well, any product, I wouldn't buy anything!

It's a Sony Bravia. Last I checked, it's one of the best HDTVs out there.

In cost versus performance, I've never valued high definition enough that would make it worth purchasing at this point in time. Largely, there is simply not enough of a perceived difference for me to increase my level of entertainment. I do notice a slight change in quality, but it is hardly worth the price to me for that slightness. Keep in mind, I do sell electronics, especially high definition televisions, and I am aware of the details.

Exactly.

It's a Sony Bravia. Last I checked, it's one of the best HDTVs out there.

But you are acting like there is a widespread problem with HDTV's based off of 1 person you know having one with problems. That makes no sense at all. I have 4 LCD televisions in my house and not one of them has had a single problem at all. But I'm aware that problems can exist like with all electronics. But that doesn't make it the norm.

But you are acting like there is a widespread problem with HDTV's based off of 1 person you know having one with problems. That makes no sense at all. I have 4 LCD televisions in my house and not one of them has had a single problem at all. But I'm aware that problems can exist like with all electronics. But that doesn't make it the norm.

If you look at my post, you will see that the issue is not just on the TV, but also on the HD cable service as well. Freezing pictures is a awful problem to deal with. Sometimes, he'll switch to a channel, it will say "please wait" and the picture will take a while to come up. When it does, it then freezes. That happens a lot, according to him. And the remote for the HD cable service is gigantic too, he said.

If you look at my post, you will see that the issue is not just on the TV, but also on the HD cable service as well. Freezing pictures is a awful problem to deal with. Sometimes, he'll switch to a channel, it will say "please wait" and the picture will take a while to come up. When it does, it then freezes. That happens a lot, according to him. And the remote for the HD cable service is gigantic too, he said.

It sounds like its more of a cable box problem than a tv problem...

If you look at my post, you will see that the issue is not just on the TV, but also on the HD cable service as well. Freezing pictures is a awful problem to deal with. Sometimes, he'll switch to a channel, it will say "please wait" and the picture will take a while to come up. When it does, it then freezes. That happens a lot, according to him. And the remote for the HD cable service is gigantic too, he said.

Your uncle's experience != everybody else's

I have an HD satellite service and I've not had a single problem with freezing or any of the other issues you said.

HD is not necessary and never has been. It may be later on, but for the time being it's down to personal preference. If you don't like it or don't see the point, then fine, that's your opinion, but don't dare insinuate that those of us that have it and like it are getting worked up over something that's "silly." That's as bad as saying that having a Pentium 4 when it was still cutting edge was "silly," as computers still worked fine and did the job. If everybody thought that way, we'd still be working with abacuses.

I like the huge amount of extra detail, but never have I said it's necessary, and I've never heard anybody else make that claim.

Look, the only answer you seem to want here is that HDTV is crap/useless/illogical decision to buy. We are all fools (lets call us early adopters) to like the better picture of HDTV and paying more for it.

Anybody telling you otherwise you crap on them. So what's the point to your question? Trying to prove how smart you are for not wanting HDTV because it's really not that better than SDTV?

And like many others here have said : DON'T BUY ONE if you don't need it (or too poor to buy one, jealous maybe?).

There are SD tv's that are pretty much as good as HDTV's, but they still cost +- 600$

In my opinion the picture on those SD tv's is a little better.

umm... I don't think it's an opinion based thing really. A picture is better because it has more pixels and a higher resolution.

For me HD certainly isn't necessary. The only reason I'd want one is for gaming, I don't have Blu-ray or any HD TV yet.

If you look at my post, you will see that the issue is not just on the TV, but also on the HD cable service as well. Freezing pictures is a awful problem to deal with. Sometimes, he'll switch to a channel, it will say "please wait" and the picture will take a while to come up. When it does, it then freezes. That happens a lot, according to him. And the remote for the HD cable service is gigantic too, he said.

If that happens then he has a signal problem. Most likely due to the cable wiring in his house. In most cases old splitters were probably used and need to be replaced.

If everyone had these problems then why would anyone use HD services?

As for the remote being "gigantic"...wtf? That's just his opinion. Once again, it does not mean it is true or bothersome to others. I personally use a Logitech harmony Remote so that is totally irrelevant in my case.

I've had HD service for almost 3 years now, and never had a single problem like the one your uncle is having. For me it comes to preference. My old SD TV died after almost 20 years of use and I wanted a HD flat panel. I didn't have to buy one but in big screens the HD really does help and after a while going back to see standard res programing just feels blurry and less vibrant.

It sounds like its more of a cable box problem than a tv problem...

Exactly, I wouldn't be surprised if the problem was traced to an old splitter (or a relatively new splitter from a dollar store).

He may need to replace it with a 5-900MHz rated splitter with a low db loss. One should try to get the total household db loss under 12 or 15 db. Analog cable tv is a bit more forgiving and works up to about 20db.

He should check with his cable provider for more details (or specific details for his region).

I have to say, HDTV looks almost no different than SD but I could just be really blind. It seems to me like a dual core setup computer, they tell you it's so much faster and better just to get you to buy it and in reality there's almost no noticeable difference. I've always wondering how when you see a commercial and they show you the difference between HD and SD content, how the hell can you see a difference if you don't have HD? You're watching it on SD therefore the HD shouldn't be visible. It's just like these graphics cards, they always show how much better they're supposed to see. Yeah if they're so much better, how will I see a difference viewing the demos on my current setup? It really confuses the hell out of me how they figure this works. It's like they just distort it really bad and then use the normal one to show the contrast. But is it really that much different? Not that I've witnessed; by a long shot. In my opinion, they just want your money.

I have to say, HDTV looks almost no different than SD but I could just be really blind. It seems to me like a dual core setup computer, they tell you it's so much faster and better just to get you to buy it and in reality there's almost no noticeable difference. I've always wondering how when you see a commercial and they show you the difference between HD and SD content, how the hell can you see a difference if you don't have HD? You're watching it on SD therefore the HD shouldn't be visible. It's just like these graphics cards, they always show how much better they're supposed to see. Yeah if they're so much better, how will I see a difference viewing the demos on my current setup? It really confuses the hell out of me how they figure this works. It's like they just distort it really bad and then use the normal one to show the contrast. But is it really that much different? Not that I've witnessed; by a long shot. In my opinion, they just want your money.

when playing a PC game, which would you rather use, 640x480 or 1280x1024? the different between SD and HD is the same.

I would also point out that SDTV signals do not look worse on a HDTV television. Yes, the programs are designed for a 4:3 screen and not a 16:9 so that end up wasting some screen real estate with horizontal bars. The result of which will make a 20" HDTV seem smaller than a 20" analog TV.

If the image looks poorer than a normal analog TV then it is likely that the homeowner has enabled zooming or stretching. Of course, any self-respecting HDTV would never enable zooming or stretching because it either clips material from the top and bottom or distorts the image horizontally (making everyone look short and fat).

In terms of it looking "better than real life", no the person doesn't need glasses for real life. If you watch a baseball game then there is a bit of a weird experience where images in the background seem to be almost as in focus as the stuff in the immediate foreground. Normal eyes don't work that well.

That's as bad as saying that having a Pentium 4 when it was still cutting edge was "silly," as computers still worked fine and did the job. If everybody thought that way, we'd still be working with abacuses.

Well, you're talking about a speed difference. Watching on an HDTV is not going to make anything run faster.

I've had HD service for almost 3 years now, and never had a single problem like the one your uncle is having. For me it comes to preference. My old SD TV died after almost 20 years of use and I wanted a HD flat panel. I didn't have to buy one but in big screens the HD really does help and after a while going back to see standard res programing just feels blurry and less vibrant.

With your case, that's a different story. You needed a new TV since your old one died. However, majority of people buy an HDTV when their older SDTV still works just fine.

Are people buying HDTV and not hooking it up to HD sources? What's with the grouchy, "I can't see any difference!" crowd here? The clarity is obvious if you have both... I have 150 SD channels and 40 HD channels on my cable network, I rarely watch any of the SD anymore, the HD is so much better that if nothing is on I just turn the TV off or turn on the PS3.

I have to say, HDTV looks almost no different than SD but I could just be really blind. It seems to me like a dual core setup computer, they tell you it's so much faster and better just to get you to buy it and in reality there's almost no noticeable difference. I've always wondering how when you see a commercial and they show you the difference between HD and SD content, how the hell can you see a difference if you don't have HD? You're watching it on SD therefore the HD shouldn't be visible. It's just like these graphics cards, they always show how much better they're supposed to see. Yeah if they're so much better, how will I see a difference viewing the demos on my current setup? It really confuses the hell out of me how they figure this works. It's like they just distort it really bad and then use the normal one to show the contrast. But is it really that much different? Not that I've witnessed; by a long shot. In my opinion, they just want your money.

Exactly. Besides, while I do see a difference in quality with HD vs. SD, I don't like the motion blur in HDTVs and I find the picture too dark.

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    • Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 Ergonomic Office Chair review: The Ikea of chairs by Steven Parker I've reviewed a few gaming chairs over the past three years or so and generally found them to score well in our reviews. SIHOO reached out asking if I was interested in taking a look at their flagship chair, the Doro C300 Pro V2. I never got the chance to check out its predecessor, but the V2 is described as an "Adaptive Ergonomic Chair." It became available to buy in April of this year. Let's get things rolling with a closer look at the specifications and features. Specifications Doro C300 Pro V2 Model Ergonomic Materials Mesh Back and Seat; Soft PU Coated Armrests Height adjustability 45.5 - 53 cm / 17.5" - 20.9" Seat (w+d) 52 x 43 - 47 cm / 20.5" x 16.9" - 18.5" (adjustable) Backrest 52 – 60 cm / 20.5" - 23.6" (adjustable) Lumbar support Mesh built-in (adjustable) Armrest adjustability 8D Bionic Armrests Rocking angle 105°, 120°, 135° (fixed) Neck support Mesh built-in (adjustable) Net weight 27.3 kg / 59.64 lbs Weight support 150 kg / 330 lbs Colors Black, White Warranty 5 years (upon registering) Price $499.99, $539.99 Introduction At first glance, it looks like a chair that in another life wants to be a Herman Miller; It certainly looks like my Aeron Remastered, but the Doro C300 Pro V2 has quite a few more features and costs quite a bit less. SIHOO says that it is made up of a "DynaCore" system that tracks your movement and synchronizes the headrest, backrest, lumbar support, and armrests as you shift, twist, or recline. They also say that the "SyncroFlex Backrest" molds to your spine, which kind of describes how the mesh fabric works in most ergonomic chairs, but anyway. Below are the meat and potatoes measurements for the chair. Here is the same tech sheet, but in inches. Durability I would be remiss to not talk about the various durability testing this chair underwent before coming to market, as this is claimed on the product page. First of all, the chair is BIFMA-, SGS-, and TÜV-certified. As for durability, the tests undergone were: 100,000 Castor cycles tested 120,000 Armrest cycles tested 120,000 Recline cycles tested 120,000 Gas lift cycles tested 60,000 Armrest durability cycles tested 120,000 Rotation cycles tested Nothing about weights testing, though. Now that's all disclosed, now onto my own personal findings. Assembly The Doro C300 Pro V2 came in two large boxes (1) (2), and everything was packed very well, protecting the different parts of the chair. In the box, there is a folded sheet that explains the 12 steps to assemble it; they are: Remove the bottom cover on the aluminum base; Insert the five legs into the aluminum base and use ten screws to fasten them; Insert the castors into the legs; Replace the bottom cover on the bottom of the aluminum base; Place the Class 4 Hydraulics gas cylinder into the aluminum base; Screw the bottom part of the arm rests, taking care of the orientation using two screws on each side; Use three torx screws to fasten the footrest to the bottom of the seat; Fasten the backrest to the seat using four torx bolts; Fasten the armrests to the backrest using four Torx bolts (two on each side), taking care to note the orientation; Place the chair onto the Class 4 Hydraulics gas cylinder; Insert the headrest into the top of the backrest; Use two torx screws to fasten the headrest to the backrest. There's also an online guide you can refer to. Carefully unpacking the two boxes took around 15 minutes because almost everything is wrapped in plastic and protective foam; the chair assembly itself took around an hour. I say in the above assembly steps to take note of the orientation, because it's not obvious which way around the bottom portion of the armrests go, and although there is an L and R on the bottom of the armrests, it also wasn't clear from the instructions which was actually left or right, facing the chair, or in the seated down orientation? Anyway, I ended up putting the bottom portions on the wrong sides, and after securing one of the armrests, I discovered that although it was on the correct side, the armrest base could rotate a full 360°, but not when bolted to the chair, so I had to remove it, rotate it, and then bolt it back on. Truly an Ikea experience! Also, to complicate things further, although all the parts are labeled from A to X (yes, that's 24 parts) unhelpfully, these letters do not appear on the parts themselves or the package with the bolts, screws, and washers. There's also a pair of protective gloves in the box, but I think they were made for much smaller hands than I have. Even my friend, who is 5.1, had difficulty putting them on. Once assembled, I needed to sit down. Anyway, as I said, it looks quite similar to my Herman Miller. And here is the back of it. If you look at the product page and on Amazon, it seems like a lot of thought has gone into the chair itself and what it's capable of, but there is no mention at all about the castors, and this is an area where I think the chair trips up quite quickly. I found it difficult to move the chair in any direction. I asked a friend who came to visit me earlier this week to test my findings, and she said that the wheels were "no good," so it definitely isn't just me. I am 6'2 myself and a big guy, I work from home and gained a few pounds from mostly staying in and the hell away from other people. However, the Doro C300 Pro V2 is rated for up to 150kg (330lbs), which in my case is used well within its max rating. Ergonomics The number of adjustments you can make, right up to setting it in nap mode — which I haven't fully tested yet — is what you'd expect from a premium chair. Yes, you can go up and down (max 7.5 cm adjustment), rock back and forth (with tilt adjustment), and lock the chair between three stages of 105°, 120°, 135°, which is not quite as flat as the AndaSeat I tested at 160°. Some thought has also gone into the "8D" armrests, too, which are cushioned but quite firm; you'll only know it if you press hard into the PU-covered tops, which give about half a centimeter, but it's enough to ensure your skin won't get awkwardly stuck to it in warmer (or sweatier) conditions. It almost feels like plastic and is very easy to keep clean. However, the armrest positions move far too easily, and I am not sure what that "elbow" function is. Maybe it is good for a short person with short arms, anyway, I never used it and kept it flat at all times. There are eight levels of adjustment for the armrests, they are: backwards, forwards, swing left/right, height up and down, tilt, and 360° rotation, which can be handy for desk clearance. As I said, the armrest pads shift far too easily, which could give off an ergonomic vibe, but who wants the armrest sliding when you are shifting weight? The height adjustability does lock into place when lifting and adjusting. Comfort This is ultimately what it boils down to at the end of the day, right? Quite a lot of reviews praise the comfort of this chair, and I don't disagree that the mesh seating is quite comfortable. I am used to the material from my daily Herman Miller. However, the backrest cannot be locked into place, and this is actually a feature; as you shift or recline yourself on the chair, the backrest moves with your body. It took some getting used to. The lumbar gives ample support, but I would have preferred an adjustable one built into the seat base, as this causes the backrest to move up and down at will. Again, as with my previous chair review, this chair is also rated for tall people, but nowhere in the product documentation does it say how tall. Being 6'2 myself, I'm happy to say that the backrest is tall and wide enough, and thought has been given to being able to adjust the neck rest, but as others have mentioned in their reviews, people as tall as 6.2ft is about the limit for the neckrest. Conclusion What I didn't like The footrest is rated for 15kg (33 lbs), which to me seems a bit light, and after looking online, it seems like a chair footrest for adults must be at least twice that rating. In all honesty, they are just hollow metal tubes, so it is not recommended to let a kid sit on them. I also feel like it doesn't really go out far enough for my height, so that kind of puts the dampener on me being able to use it regularly. I'll just have to continue to use my subwoofer as a footrest! I do not like the armrests being able to shift around as easily as they can, and they are a little too forward-positioned in the chair to comfortably sit close to my desk, because even in the lowest height position, they don't allow me to go under the desk like is possible with my Herman Miller. I also feel like this chair could have been delivered partially constructed, especially the armrests on the seat, and why the aluminum base wasn't already pre-constructed (without the castors) is baffling, considering it would have fit in one of the two boxes that way. The instructions also need to be clearer. On the pamphlet, there's an A to X listing (which is also used in the steps), but none of the physical parts use this lettering system! What I did like I'll be honest, I haven't used it for very long, just one week, and seating comfort is subjective after all! Any spills wiped straight off it, the stitching, and the lines look great, not a fray to be seen or stitch out of place. It looks kind of cool, too. My favorite feature of these seats is the nap mode. While you're not lying completely flat, it leans far back enough to make you easily doze off after a heavy gaming or working session. Overall, this chair offers plenty of comfort features. The MSRP does vary quite a bit depending on the region, at £549.99 in the UK, and €580 in Europe, and $599 before tax in the U.S. However, shipping is free, which is a bonus for such a heavy item. Is it worth it, though? At three years' warranty, I think it's a decent deal. Another firm out of Germany sent me a free replacement hydraulic gas spring for a chair that failed after almost four years, so it was well outside its two-year warranty. My advice is to always try, as you might have the same luck I did. If I could fault it at all, it would be the constant shifting of the armrests and backrest. Where to buy Although the footrest variant normally costs $539.99, it has been discounted to $469.99 on the official website in Black or White. In fact, the non-footrest variant is only $40 cheaper. On Amazon, it currently costs more at $499.99 links below. Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 for $469.99 (official website) Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 for $499.99 at Amazon US SIHOO provided a free sample without any review or pre-approval. Good to know This Amazon link is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. Become a Prime member (for Students or SNAP) via Neowin Get Prime Access - Prime for half price (for qualifying Medicaid, EBT, SNAP) Subscribe to Prime Video, Audible Plus, Music Unlimited or Kindle Unlimited via Neowin As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
    • Making US citizens pay is a prominent tool? Joke of the week…
    • Price Drop: Save 86% on Microsoft Office 2021 Professional Plus lifetime digital license by Steven Parker Today's highlighted deal comes via our Apps + Software section of the Neowin Deals store, where you can save 86% on a lifetime license to Microsoft Office 2021 for Windows. This bundle is for families and small businesses who want classic Office apps and email. It includes Word, Excel, PowerPoint, Outlook, Teams, and OneNote. A one-time purchase installed on 1 Windows PC for use at home or work. Lifetime license for MS Word, Excel, PowerPoint, Outlook, Teams, & OneNote One-time purchase installed on 1 Windows PC for use at home or work Instant Delivery & Download – access your software license keys and download links instantly Free customer service – only the best support! Microsoft Office Professional 2021 (for Windows) includes: Microsoft Office Word Microsoft Office Excel Microsoft Office PowerPoint Microsoft Office Outlook Microsoft Office Teams Microsoft Office OneNote Microsoft Office Publisher Microsoft Office Access No faffing about with subscriptions, just classic apps that don't expire. Good to Know ONE-TIME PURCHASE INSTALLED ON 1 DEVICE Redemption deadline: redeem your code within 30 days of purchase Access options: desktop Full versions No subscriptions – no monthly/annual fees Version: 2021 Updates included* *Support for this version of Office ends on Oct 13, 2026 A lifetime subscription to Microsoft Office 2021 Professional normally costs $219.99, but this deal can be yours for just $29.97, that's a saving of $190. For full terms, specifications, and license info, click the link below. Get Microsoft Office Professional 2021 for just $29.97, or learn more Although priced in U.S. dollars, this deal is available for digital purchase worldwide. Support queries If you have queries or need support for any of the Neowin Deals, please use the contact form here. Neowin Deals are managed and sold by StackCommerce who represent Neowin on an affiliate basis. Why we post these deals We post these because we earn commission on each sale so as not to rely solely on advertising, which many of our readers block. It all helps toward paying staff reporters, servers and hosting costs. So for those that keep moaning and complaining, be thankful we're still online for you to even do that. Other ways to support Neowin Whitelist Neowin by not blocking our ads Create a free member account to see fewer ads Make a donation to support our day to day running costs Subscribe to Neowin - for $14 a year, or $28 a year for an ad-free experience Disclosure: Neowin benefits from revenue of each sale made through our branded deals site powered by StackCommerce.
    • The only reason I want to know where you from is because if you are not from the U.K, then why should you care what we in the U.K do or don't do? Racist I am not, I am fed up with the amount coming over here and feel they can come over here and think we need to support them. Do you know how much it costs this country to support these people coming over here? Even when we give them a place to live it is not good enough. We had a barge that was being used to house immigrants, oh but that was not good enough. A mate said to me at the time, when he was homeless, he would have been happy to live on the barge, instead of ending up sleeping on a bench on the beach. I am not scared to say what my family heritage is, unlike you who is scared to say where they are from or where they live. Father side U.S, mother side Wales, still have family living in the U.S. A mate who sadly died a few years ago, had a load of people from different races recording in his studio, I got on with all of them. Skin colour don't bother me, where they are from don't bother me. Religion don't bother me as long as they don't push it onto me and it is not crazy stuff. I am not religious. But if you are not living in the U.K, then why should you care if we are in the E.U or not? This the problem, too many people poking their noses into where it don't belong. But you believe what you believe, if you think I am racist, then be it, I really do not care. Just grow a pair
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