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I was initially with the most potentially expensive ISP in the world (Telstra Bigpond). I had been changing plans between ADSL and ADSL2+. The modem they supplied me, SpeedTouch 536 (a basic usb/ethernet modem), which works great on both ADSL/ADSL2+. I then bought a Netgear DG834G modem router to allow me to connect my Xbox360 to the internet. This works great on ADSL2+ but when I changed to ADSL, and whenever I leave the router idle (like when going to bed or out), it would drop out but lights on the router indicate nothing is wrong. This does not occur on ADSL2+, it stays on.

I've changed to another ISP, Internode (after people pushed me to abandon Bigpond) and the plan back to ADSL. I'm very glad with the change but the router is still doing the same thing so I went out and bought another router, D-Link DSL-G604T. Set it up and it does EXACTLY the same as the Netgear router - dropping out during idle.

I've tried the following:

Flushed the firmware to latest version (only the Netgear)

Tried other phone lines (I only have one phone port in the house)

Tried factory-resetting both routers

If I want to keep it online, I'd need to have bittorrent open downloading/uploading 24/7 to keep it online and that can chew through my usage quota in no time :(

This may not be a Router or Modem fault at all

It sounds more likely a Virus or Malware issue, especially if you are using file sharing programs

What Antivirus are you using?

I prefer Avira free Antivirus: http://www.free-av.com/

You may have Malware installed, I use Malwarebytes and find it to be really effective: http://malwarebytes.org/mbam-download.php

I think all this is about set the options of the connection of your adsl router. Open the web browser and in the address bar write

http://192.168.1.1 enter the username and the password and try to find the options of the connection, and set it Always connected.

The options on my adsl router looks like this:

alwconn.jpg

Hope it helps.

I'm running Windows 7 and I have been doing many installations of it and the routers doing it on each installation of Win7.

Oh and I forgot to mention, to get the router back online, I have to go to the router and unplug them from the power and replug them back in. This gets them back online and then the cycle repeats itself.

I do have the D-link ADSL filter/splitter and NO phones or other phone equipments are plugged in along the routers at all.

EDIT: Genc21. I have check that on both and they are both set by default to "ALWAYS ON". I haven't touched those settings at all.

Ping-ing all the time keeps ur connections alive (wont waste ur Bandwidth quota), and dont have to use torrent for that.

We could try fixing the problem rather than bodging it....

Would be interesting to hear the results of the av scan, or at least see if there is any unusual activity logged anywhere

Are you using PPPoE or PPPoA? VC-Mux or LLC Encapsulation? Try using the other and see if you get the same results. What router are you trying these settings in at the moment? I'm having a little trouble figuring out what you mean by using ADSL vs ADSL 2+, do you mean you moved from a Telstra ADSL 2+ plan to an Internode ADSL plan? Or do you mean you have the router forced manually to ADSL only mode?

Edited by BeeJAyP

I can get ADSL2+ here but only through Telstra and their resellers which are known for high prices for their plans. I was on ADSL2+ before but I decide to save $40 and change to another ISP but on ADSL. I had no problems when I had ADSL2+ but I'm having problems with ADSL. The strange thing is I have a basic ADSL modem connected and it stays in snyc with no problems at all. I no longer have the modem with me since I returned it.

I am 100% sure it is nothing to do what is plugged into it (my computer and my Xbox360). routers don't care what's connected to it, it just either works or don't.

Tried that too (oh well only on the netgear) going to try it on the d-link. I tried to set up the speedtouch but it's passworded protected by the damn Bigpond. Can you use other ISP's modem on other ISPs?

I know about Telstra ADSL2+ Dslam in Internode but their plans still too expensive.

EDIT: Okay I see more options about training on D-link than on Netgear. I'm going to try each of 4 ADSL types and report back what happens.

Edited by ozgeek

If you got your Speedtouch on a contract with Telstra a while ago it will usually be locked to their network (like a mobile phone), I believe they can unlock it for you though if you request it.

You might want to try calling Internode, technically nothing should have changed as you would still be on the same DSLAM, even the same port and the basic configuration should still be the same, from what I can tell from my experience, it may have been reprogrammed incorrectly during the changeover. If they migrated you to their DSLAM then it may be a different story though.

Telstra or Telstra Wholesale DSL generally works best with PPPoA LLC encapsulation.

Try isolating your modem overnight to determine if the fault is caused by your equipment. I read that you have a D-Link filter and no phone handsets? If that's the case you should remove the filter.

If problems persist you may want to call your ISP and ask them to perform a port rebuild.

Ahh, I remember using a D-Link model on ADSL, it'd drop out every so often and require a power cycle to get it connecting again.

Their filters are similarly bad (I had to replace an aging Dick Smith one and D-Link was the only choice, in the first day it caused my modem to lose the connection 3 times)

Thanks Moderator, but refer here ;)

From Post#1

the router is still doing the same thing so I went out and bought another router, D-Link DSL-G604T. Set it up and it does EXACTLY the same as the Netgear router - dropping out during idle

Mind you it could be just two faulty modems

Or 1 bad filter (that may not be even required)

There's a ton of things that you can try, the best would be to isolate EVERYTHING off the telephone line and test it overnight to see if its a bad filter. Try to do it with a really short telephone cable too.

You can also change the encap to PPPoE/PPPoA + VC-Mux or LLC.

Once you have done this, try and get node to log a fault with Telstra and they will hopefully swap the port or rebuild it or hopefully test up to the pit outside your home if your lucky.

My guess is that it will be something internal, when I was working for an ISP I noticed a good 80% of problems were inside the home in some regards.

PS: @kimsland: Ok we get it! You hate P2P programs! It's not causing this issue and they wont beat you up or give you lung cancer no matter how much you think they do! :rolleyes:

I tried many different configurations:

- Router only on phone line

- Router only on phone line via filter (I have 3 spare filters and I tried all)

- Same as above but with TTY (text phone) connected

- Same but with basic phone.

Currently and in it's default form, there is NO equipment other than the router itself connected to the phoneline. I never use the phoneline to make phone calls or fax. No alarm systems at all. Nothing, except the router is using my phoneline.

I keep a close eye on all the posts

Malware could have been the likely culprit, and would have certainly been the first option to take (scanning)

But the member has now stated that it froze on other machines, so therefore it must now be the Modem or the line or Telstra lines externally

Are you suggesting I should have not given the option of malware on the first replies?

Your statement to me, is trying to insinuate that my suggestion was not required, when it was most certainly one of the best and likely answers that a support member should provide (at that stage)

Try calling Internode to arrange with a Telstra tech? You'll probably have to pay, but as a somewhat last resort it may help.

I've heard (as you've probably experienced) that Internode's support is generally excellent. Call them and see if they can run some tests from their end.

Also, check out the Whirlpool forums; there might be people with similar problems. :)

Edit: Can you borrow another modem from a friend or somewhere (Billion, Netcomm, etc, not the brands you've already used) and try your connection on that?

If you have no problems with a standard ADSL modem then what happens when you set the Netgear or the D-Link to train in ADSL only mode?

Hurray ! I set D-link in ADSL-mode and left it overnight while I slept. At near 8am, the modem is still online and nothing is using it. I'm inclined to convince your suggestion have solved it.

How come? Why do I have to change like this. Doesn't ADSL2+ support backward compatibility?

I know about whirlpool site (Australian Broadband discussion site and forums). I have been there since 2006 with more than 2000 posts under my belt.

Thank you for all your help. I believe it is staying in sync.

That's great! :D Glad it all worked out eventually (Y)

Doesn't ADSL2+ support backward compatibility?

Well, ADSL2+ hardware already supports backward compatibility...in the form of ADSL1-mode on modem/routers! But I'm really not sure if ADSL1 is supposed to work by default with ADSL2+ mode applied.

I know about whirlpool site (Australian Broadband discussion site and forums). I have been there since 2006 with more than 2000 posts under my belt.

(Y)

Edited by redeemed
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    • ZimaBoard 2 1664 Starter Kit review: it's a cool and affordable DIY NAS by Steven Parker IceWhale Technology reached out to me asking if I was interested in testing the ZimaBoard 2, and after convincing them to send me the Starter Kit, it arrived at my doorstep in May. A bit of background: it is a Shanghai-based Chinese company founded in 2020, which specializes in single-board servers and personal cloud solutions. From searching around online, user feedback on the company and ZimaOS is mostly positive, so we're off to a good start. In addition, I should probably point out that although they do not have a large portfolio of NAS devices, with just four of what they do offer, they seem to have covered everything from a relatively low-priced entry point with the ZimaBoard 2, right up to the high end, with the ZimaCube 2 Creator Pack that even includes an NVIDIA RTX PRO 2000. Anyway, as already mentioned, what we have today is the ZimaBoard 2 Starter Kit, and here are the full specifications: ZimaBoard 2 Model 832, 1664 CPU Intel Core N150 (4x E Cores/Threads, Max burst up to 3.6 GHz) TDP: 6W (Base) 10W (Max) Graphics Intel UHD Graphics 24 EUs (1.00 GHz) Memory 8 GB, 16 GB DDR5 4800MT/s non ECC SODIMM (soldered) Disk Capacity 60 TB (30 TB x 2) Supported RAID Types TRAID, TRAID +, RAID0, RAID1, RAID5, RAID 6, RAID 10 Storage 2 x SATA 3.0 6Gb/s Ports with Power Bootloader 32 GB, 64 GB eMMC Network 2x RJ-45 2.5 GbE PCIe 1 x PCIe 3.0 (via LPC) USB Ports 2 x USB-A 3.1 (5 Gbps) Display Mini-DisplayPort 1.4 (4K@60Hz) Hardware Transcoding Engine H.264, H.265, MPEG-4, VC-1 Maximum resolution: 4K (4096 x 2160); Maximum FPS: 60 Virtualization Intel® AES New Instructions Intel® Virtualization Technology (VT-x) Intel® Virtualization Technology for Directed I/O (VT-d) Size (H/W/D) 140mm x 83mm x 31mm Weight 0.4 kg (only ZimaBoard 2 device) Power 12v 5A Power Supply Warranty 1 year (Global) 2 Years (EU) OS ZimaOS v1.6.1 MSRP $339, $399 ($548.60) As you can see above, there are two variants of the ZimaBoard 2. The lesser variant has half the eMMC storage and 8 GB less RAM, although it also costs $60 less than the top variant we are testing today. The above pricing is only for the ZimaBoard 2. I put the MSRP of the Starter Kit next to it in brackets, although as of publishing, it is discounted to $534.50. The ZimaBoard 2 started life on Kickstarter and shipped to backers in August last year. It became available via the official website in late 2025 and Q1 2026. This hobbyist NAS contains the still relatively new N150 Intel CPU released in the first quarter of 2025, with support for DisplayPort 1.4, HDMI 2.1, although in this case, the memory is integrated into the board itself, so it will not be possible to upgrade or expand the amount. It also supports AV1 decoding, as well as H.264, VP8, VP9, H.265 (8 bit), and H.265 (10 bit). The different capabilities in the Alder Lake-N (and Twin Lake) series are listed below. Processor E-cores L3-cache Turbo clock GPU GPU-clock TDP Intel N355 8 6 MB 3.9 GHz 32 EUs 1.35 GHz 9 W Intel Core 3 N350 3.9 GHz 1.35 GHz 7 W Intel Core i3-N305 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz 9 W Intel Core i3-N300 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz Intel N250 4 3.8 GHz 1.25 GHz 6 W Intel Processor N200 3.7 GHz 0.75 GHz Intel N150 3.6 GHz 24 EUs 1 GHz Intel N97 1.2 GHz 12 W Intel Processor N100 3.4 GHz 0.75 GHz 6 W The CPU is part of the Twin Lake series that sits near the bottom of the N-series, designed for low- powered systems and entry-level laptops, and as such has a base level TDP of just 6W. As I have noted before, we are seeing another NAS with a great amount of RAM. It's important to mention that the ZimaBoard 2's memory is integrated into the base board (which is why they have two variants of it). As a reminder, up until a couple of years ago, it was commonplace to only get 2 or 4GB max on a flagship Synology or QNAP home NAS. Ever since the likes of TerraMaster and more have entered the market with ample RAM sizes included in their NAS offerings, it has gone a long way in forcing the hands of the traditional makers to up their game a bit. First impressions The Starter Kit came in one outer box with several packages inside it (shown above). I forgot to take pics of it because when it arrived, it wasn't clear what was inside, and I had to confirm with my contact that I received the entire Starter Kit. In the box ZimaBoard 2 ZimaBoard 2 HDD Expansion Bracket + PCIe card frame Zimaboard Mini DisplayPort Male to HDMI Female Cable 4K 60Hz Zimaboard PCIe 3.0 x4 to Dual NVMe M.2 SSD Adapter Card Quick guide [full online guide] Limited warranty notice Screws Design Where to start? You'd be forgiven for mistaking it as an SSD enclosure if not for all the ports on it. It is completely made out of metal, and the top is an entire heatsink. It has a premium feel about it, but it definitely looks like a hobby device. As you will see, the completed build looks like it belongs in a server or meter closet rather than as a showpiece on someone's desk. On what I am calling the rear, there's a Mini DisplayPort (1.4), two 2.5 GbE ports, with Type A 3.1 USB ports, and then the barrel connector port. Around the front, there are two SATA6 ports with a power connector in the middle. Left side Right side One side is completely free of ports. On the other there's a slit that allows for the feed of a CPU fan cable, and a PCIe 3.0 X4 slot. Top Bottom The top is entirely made up of a heatsink except for the extended height for the I/O on the rear. Around the other side, you can find the ZIMA branding and some regulatory information stamped near the bottom. As you may see from the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2, it scratches quite easily from just moving it around on my Ikea island. Teardown Before we get started, let's have a look at this thing on the inside. The steps to get to the board are as follows: Remove the four smaller Torx screws on the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2; Remove the four larger Torx screws on the sides of the device; Carefully unstick the CMOS battery from the PCB; Remove two Phillips screws on the PCB; Lift out the PCB. Yes, as you can tell from the instructions, you need three different tools to remove Torx and Phillips screws (10 in total), and unhelpfully, one of the screws is located under the CMOS battery, which is stuck onto the PCB. Building Now comes the fun part. Because the ZimaSpace website does not provide any guidance on how to put the Starter Kit together. They only have guidance for connecting the CPU fan. However, they did upload a video to their YouTube channel that shows the entire process. To install the fan, first remove the four screws on the bottom of the ZimaBoard 2, then on the inside, there is a CPU FAN connector where you can attach the fan, reattach the ZimaBoard 2 frame, and feed the fan cable through the provided slit. Then remove the nearest screw on the side and attach the fan frame to the side of the device using the same screw. ZimaBard 2 screws Aligning the screws Bottom view Remember those four screws we removed to access the CPU FAN? Longer screws are provided in the box with the HDD Expansion Bracket, which is what you will now need to attach the ZimaBoard 2 to it. Helpfully, the orientation on how to attach it is made obvious when the frame can only be screwed on at the same overall length as the ZimaBoard 2. If you do it the wrong way around (which is what I did initially) one side hangs off the frame, and it becomes difficult to attach the PCIe Adapter Card cable. PCIe card frame Other side PCIe slot connector Next, it's time to attach the PCIe card frame, which is fastened with the help of 3.5-inch SATA HDD (3 screws). These are toolless screws that you can just use your fingers to fasten them with. Then it is time to connect the provided PCIe cable with the slot connector on one side of the ZimaBoard 2, feed it through the bottom of the HDD frame, and fasten it with two standoffs. Both bracket options 2280 standoffs with 2x 4TB MP44Q The PCIe 3.0 X4 card comes with a short bracket option, handy if you decide to place it inside a different NAS or rack server, but here we need the long bracket. Oddly enough, the M.2 standoffs were preinstalled into the 22110 position, but extra standoffs are included in the box, which I installed at the 2280 position for our use. I added a couple of MP44Q M.2 PCIe 4.0 SSDs (2 x 4TB) that can be availed on Amazon for $478.99 (the lowest price for 3 months) that TEAMGROUP supplied us with Then we have the almost completed build, you just need to push the card into the PCIe slot. Unfortunately, IceWhale Technologies did not provide a screw for the PCIe card frame (this is also apparent in their own video). Here it is at several different angles, with the last pic showing the SATA Y-Cable connected to the two WD Red Plus 4TB drives. Setup and Usage Next, you connect your cables to the I/O, and the ZimaBoard 2 powers on automatically, as there is no power button on the device. Power is controlled through the Settings in ZimaOS. BIOS The ZimaBoard 2 includes an Aptio BIOS from American Megatrends [1, 2, 3], and you can setup pretty much everything here including the boot order, which is locked to the UEFI OS, however above that choice you can enable or disable booting to a SATA/USB bootloader so this would still allow you to switch to an alternative bootloader and boot from it, or disable it to instead always start from the first disk with an OS installed on it. Initial Setup Upon connecting to the LAN and booting up, the ZimaBoard 2 can be reached by navigating to the IP address (shown if you have a monitor connected), or you can find it using the ZIMA Client desktop application, which is essentially a Zima device finder. Initializing the ZimaBoard 2 The ZimaOS setup process is pretty straightforward, through a wizard, and in full above, it basically consists of setting up an account and some handy tips, and that's that! Post Setup (ZimaOS update) Upon first boot, you are alerted that there is a ZimaOS update from 1.5.0 to 1.6.1, which I applied; the full process is shown above with the changelog. ZimaBoard 2 Storage Setup Next, it is time to set up the storage. ZimaOS actually throws everything onto the eMMC flash drive; it is also the default location of AppData, which is definitely something to be wary about, as the 45GB available storage could fill up quickly. HDDs I first attempted to create a Storage Pool using the two 4TB WD Red Plus NAS drives, and got an error message: After several attempts and then looking online, I discovered it was a bug with ZimaOS where the fix was simply to reboot ZimaOS and then try again, this time I was able to create a RAID mirror using the two drives. SSDs I did the same for the SSDs, as you will see in the above gallery, when I created the second Storage Pool, it only allowed me to select available drives. 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In my case, all I had to do was add the media path I just created, which you can also browse to using the folder icon in the path field. In addition, you can now map the new Media library in Windows Explorer using the Zima Client. Oddly enough, it is not possible to access the ZimaBoard 2 over the Network Neighborhood; you must map drives using the client, which is shown in the last image in the above gallery. I watched one of my Blu-Ray rips, which is Dolby Vision with Dolby Atmos, and the content played fine with no stuttering or buffering, which is what anyone needs in this scenario. ZimaBoard 2 Zima Client mobile app There's also a client for mobile. It is pretty barebones, as shown in the above gallery, for example, the Apps screen launches the WebUI for that app, and the Backup must be done manually. On opening Backup, you can select internal storage folders on your phone to backup to the ZimaBoard 2's storage, and although this is constantly scanned, the backup action itself must be manually triggered. There is an option to allow foreground backup (last image in the above gallery), but this basically means the queued backup gets triggered when you manually open the app. Benchmarking SATA PCIe 3.0 X4 A CrystalDiskMark test on a mapped network drive from within a Windows 11 25H2 PC (image above) connected over a 2.5 GbE was well within acceptable ranges. Writes were generally better on the SSD RAID mirror. SATA PCIe 3.0 X1 I also ran the NAS Performance tester, which tests the link speed performance. As you can see, it pretty much maxes out the 2.5GbE connection. Of course, you can also opt to bond the two 2.5 GbE connections for a bit more umph, but I didn't do that. Thermals Top PCIe card SATA HDDs Next, I measured some hotspots while playing content on Plex. It's fair to say this will perform better than a NAS that is enclosed in a metal or plastic case, as almost everything storage-wise is exposed! Anyway, the ZimaBoard 2 did not break a sweat with Plex streaming or disk benchmarks. ZimaOS Factory Reset ZimaOS does not include a factory reset option. Instead, you have to download the ZimaOS image and flash it to the eMMC manually. The flashing process is shown in the above gallery. The steps to do so are listed below: Download the ZimaOS image here; Open BalenaEtcher (Run as Administrator) and select the image; Select your inserted USB drive (min 8 GB) Flash to it; Connect your USB drive, monitor, keyboard, USB hub (optional), mouse (optional), and network cable (recommended) to the ZimaBoard 2; Connect power and press F11 continuously; Select your USB drive starting with UEFI in the boot device menu; Press Enter on the Install ZimaOS option; Select /dev/mmcblk0 (MMC) flash drive as target; Confirm with (three times) to wipe the target disk; Wait a couple of minutes while ZimaOS installs; Remove the USB drive and confirm with a reboot; Your ZimaBoard 2 has been factory reset. However, you don't have to stick with ZimaOS, in fact the company also offers official CasaOS images, that are based on Debian; or as they say themselves, put anything you want on this "hackable single board server" it's up to you. Conclusion I had a lot of fun putting this together. I've custom-built all my own PCs and servers since the 90s, and this is the first time I have had to put a NAS together. Even if the actual base ZimaBoard 2 was already a completed build, it still feels pretty custom. I just wish that IceWhale Technology included a getting-started guide in the box for the Start Kit, which would have really completed this kit. Instead, I had to search for the official video on the YouTube channel to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong. So who is this for? Definitely the hobbyist who is comfortable building their own PC and servers. It also has a much smaller footprint than its nearest equivalent (in terms of specs), like the Beelink Me Pro, which is another NAS I will be testing soon. Although the Beelink does not come with the PCIe 3.0 X4 expansion, the ZimaBoard 2 Starter Kit suddenly looks to be a great bargain, even if it only offers the two 3.5-inch bays over the four in the other example. It makes a lot of sense to use Intel's N150 chip inside a NAS; it is more than capable of doing what the ZimaBoard 2 is intended for, media streaming and backup. It also looks like the IceWhale Technology staff are quite active in the official forums helping people with issues they come across with ZimaOS and the devices, peer support seems to be good as well, I was quickly able to find why I was not able to create a new Storage Pool in ZimaOS v1.6.1 even though that is quite a serious bug, hopefully it will be fixed in the next update. If you are comfortable with the command line and Docker, you'll be fine. You can do great things with this hardware. This was my first time with ZimaOS. It seems a bit barebones in comparison to the likes of Synology DSM, TOS, and UGOS, but it has a ton of apps to get you started with your home or small business NAS. Where to buy As of publishing, IceWhale Technology is running a discount of up to 5% for the Starter Kit. If you opt to get just the ZimaBoard 2 itself, it does come with a SATA Y-Cable, so you will be able to connect up to two 3.5-inch HDDs to it. ZimaBoard 2 1668 Starter Kit for $534.50 on Amazon US (was $548.60) ZimaBoard 2 832 Starter Kit for $372.88 on Amazon US (was $390.60) Zimaboard 2 1668 (16GB+64GB) for $419.90 on Amazon US Zimaboard 2 832 (8GB+32GB) for $359.90 on Amazon Disclosure: IceWhale Technology provided a free sample without any editorial input or review pre-approval. Good to know The Amazon link is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. Become a Prime member (for Students or SNAP) via Neowin Get Prime Access - Prime for half price (for qualifying Medicaid, EBT, SNAP) Subscribe to Prime Video, Audible Plus, Music Unlimited or Kindle Unlimited via Neowin As an Amazon Associate, when you purchase through links on our site, we earn from qualifying purchases.
    • It's in the Insider's group so yes it's technically beta, though these days it's hard to see much of a difference unless you opt for the most extreme beta builds, which I don't. When I moved here from the Release Preview channel I did so primarily because I wanted to see how well the restored taskbar functionality (restored from Win10, and earlier) is working and whether it was time to finally abandon SAB--and it is--working fine, so far. Not as polished as SAB, but it'll do for me.
    • I've been using MWB Premium for a number of years so that along with Windows updates and updated browser should be fine. Thanks for that.
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