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Any semi-reliable way to fix E73 error?

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ZakO    423

My 360 has been running strong for 3 1/2 years, but just got an E73 (not E74 'RRoD') single segment (lower right) error. Holding the Sync button + eject gives the sequence 1 light, 4 lights, 2 lights, 1 light.

Has anyone here fixed this semi-reliably, i.e. without overheating it? People say that error is due to a faulty ethernet port, yet they suggest "wrapping it in a towel", "putting it in the oven" or "stopping the fans with cocktail sticks"... how exactly is that supposed to fix a faulty ethernet port? :wacko:

Any suggestions would be appreciated! Just trying to get a few more weeks/months out of it until I move house and get a new one. Thanks in advance.

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Cupcakes    151

E73 and E74 can be fixed nearly the same way.

NEVER overheat an Xbox. It's the dumbest thing anyone could do (and I've said that to someone on here that's said it as advice before..) At least you get it too :p.

@mistical has fixed several RRoD, E74 and E73 so I'd definitely recommend just looking over his post here and if you're still okay with fixing it yourself.. Definitely send him a PM for a little more detail :).

I'm sure he'd be more than willing to help you out!

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mistical    36

My 360 has been running strong for 3 1/2 years, but just got an E73 (not E74 'RRoD') single segment (lower right) error. Holding the Sync button + eject gives the sequence 1 light, 4 lights, 2 lights, 1 light.

Has anyone here fixed this semi-reliably, i.e. without overheating it? People say that error is due to a faulty ethernet port, yet they suggest "wrapping it in a towel", "putting it in the oven" or "stopping the fans with cocktail sticks"... how exactly is that supposed to fix a faulty ethernet port? :wacko:

Any suggestions would be appreciated! Just trying to get a few more weeks/months out of it until I move house and get a new one. Thanks in advance.

Just as Jordan/cupcakes said, read over my previous posts she links to and if you need further help, just send me a PM on here. But to answer part of your post, the error is NOT due to a "faulty ethernet port". Do NOT wrap it in a towel, stop the fans with sticks or put it in the oven. NONE of this will help your 360 in any way, nor make the problem go away.

Now that is not to say my suggestion will make the E73 error go away 100%/forever. But my way is at least the safe way of doing it, as long as it's done safely and properly, then doing those 3 things above or any other dumb ways. I will say though that my launch console did get the E73 error back in September '09. I bought an August '09 Elite console but 2 months later I ended up fixing the launch console and it still works to this day. Within this time period, I had gone 3-4 months without the E73 error message coming back, when it does, you just rinse and repeat what I suggested to do. It is fairly easy after you have done it multiple times (I have fixed multiple consoles, mostly friends).

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ZakO    423

Thanks for the replies, I'll have a look at your previous posts.

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sweetham    4

Thanks for the replies, I'll have a look at your previous posts.

Just repaired my xbox 360 a couple days ago with the heat gun method. It also had the E73 error with the lower right red light lit. Upon opening the box I found that the heatsink thermal compound from the GPU had oozed onto the motherboard. From the looks of it they use way too much thermal compound and they use some really cheap thermal compound that is a pain in the ass to get off without a heat gun.

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mistical    36

Just repaired my xbox 360 a couple days ago with the heat gun method. It also had the E73 error with the lower right red light lit. Upon opening the box I found that the heatsink thermal compound from the GPU had oozed onto the motherboard. From the looks of it they use way too much thermal compound and they use some really cheap thermal compound that is a pain in the ass to get off without a heat gun.

You should of removed the thermal compound with ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover $7.99 and not with the heat gun. You could possibly get away with using Goo Gone as I believe this is similar to ArctiClean.

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sweetham    4

You should of removed the thermal compound with ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover $7.99 and not with the heat gun. You could possibly get away with using Goo Gone as I believe this is similar to ArctiClean.

nice suggestion. will have to try it out if the box ever breaks again.

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Cupcakes    151

nice suggestion. will have to try it out if the box ever breaks again.

It's not so much a suggestion but rather a requirement. You do the same for a PC; You don't use a heatgun to remove thermal. You clean it using remover, etc.

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sweetham    4

It's not so much a suggestion but rather a requirement. You do the same for a PC; You don't use a heatgun to remove thermal. You clean it using remover, etc.

cool, thanks for the suggestion.

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briangw    113

E73 and E74 can be fixed nearly the same way.

NEVER overheat an Xbox. It's the dumbest thing anyone could do (and I've said that to someone on here that's said it as advice before..) At least you get it too :p.

@mistical has fixed several RRoD, E74 and E73 so I'd definitely recommend just looking over his post here and if you're still okay with fixing it yourself.. Definitely send him a PM for a little more detail :).

I'm sure he'd be more than willing to help you out!

So, the heat gun fix should fix the E74, single red light issue? Everywhere I read says it's either a cable issue (tried two different cables-same issue) or that the hardware scaler chip is damaged, at which point, nothing I've found says one can fix the issue on their own.

I guess at this point, it's worth a shot since it's 5 years old and out of warranty.

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sweetham    4

So, the heat gun fix should fix the E74, single red light issue? Everywhere I read says it's either a cable issue (tried two different cables-same issue) or that the hardware scaler chip is damaged, at which point, nothing I've found says one can fix the issue on their own.

I guess at this point, it's worth a shot since it's 5 years old and out of warranty.

Any money you would spend getting it fixed at the manufacturer would be better spend towards a new box. If your box is 5 years old it has the older hardware in it anyways. They have better chipsets and drives in the newer models. I would definitely try to fix it yourself if I was in your shoes. My box was fairly old so I went out and bought a new elite anyways with the bigger HDD. And then a couple weeks later I decided to play around with the broken one to see if I could get it working again. Now I have two functional boxes. I will probably throw one of them in another room as a dvd player or something now.

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mistical    36

So, the heat gun fix should fix the E74, single red light issue? Everywhere I read says it's either a cable issue (tried two different cables-same issue) or that the hardware scaler chip is damaged, at which point, nothing I've found says one can fix the issue on their own.

I guess at this point, it's worth a shot since it's 5 years old and out of warranty.

Yes, the heat gun should definitely fix the E74. I do want to say it will though but I will not on the safe side. As long as you properly do it and do everything carefully, you should have a working Xbox 360 once again. It is NOT a cable issue, in bold. Whomever is that (or those) sources, are incorrect and not reliable for any information.

The hardware scaler chip you speak of is more than likely (90% chance?) the error causing the problem-E74, which is why I am telling you to use the heat gun fix. This chip is also called the HANA or ANA chip depending on the motherboard model. If you need me to post pictures of where this is located, let me know, otherwise you will find the location of this chip all over the internet.

Which you can fix this on your own, you can buy the heat gun for around $20 at Menards (or any hardware store), normally found in the paint department. I use a Wagner HT1000 (Amazon listing has it for more $). Then make sure you buy Arctic Silver 5 as you will be cleaning the current compound off the CPU and GPU then reapplying it AFTER you have applied the heat to the motherboard and let it sit for a little bit (I usually wait 5 to 10 minutes as it will be hot--you can put a fan on it if you want). Also make sure you buy ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover as well as you do NOT want to use anything sharp/etc when cleaning the compound off the CPU and GPU.

Use the remover with paper towels, having Q-Tips handy I also found useful. Especially when cleaning the motherboard (as I highly recommend doing as it WILL be very, very dirty/dusty. Clean everything safely including the fans. Also make sure you have the proper tools to take the 360 apart, mainly the 2 different size screws, research and find out what they are. I forget the numbers off the top of my head but this Boxer 30pc Set is what I use and has them.

I hope that helps you out further as in the end, I am sure you will come out with a working console again. Then hopefully you will not have to do it again anytime soon, but you very likely may but by then you will at least know what you have to do and it saves you the money of buying another console.

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sweetham    4

Yes, the heat gun should definitely fix the E74. I do want to say it will though but I will not on the safe side. As long as you properly do it and do everything carefully, you should have a working Xbox 360 once again. It is NOT a cable issue, in bold. Whomever is that (or those) sources, are incorrect and not reliable for any information.

The hardware scaler chip you speak of is more than likely (90% chance?) the error causing the problem-E74, which is why I am telling you to use the heat gun fix. This chip is also called the HANA or ANA chip depending on the motherboard model. If you need me to post pictures of where this is located, let me know, otherwise you will find the location of this chip all over the internet.

Which you can fix this on your own, you can buy the heat gun for around $20 at Menards (or any hardware store), normally found in the paint department. I use a Wagner HT1000 (Amazon listing has it for more $). Then make sure you buy Arctic Silver 5 as you will be cleaning the current compound off the CPU and GPU then reapplying it AFTER you have applied the heat to the motherboard and let it sit for a little bit (I usually wait 5 to 10 minutes as it will be hot--you can put a fan on it if you want). Also make sure you buy ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover as well as you do NOT want to use anything sharp/etc when cleaning the compound off the CPU and GPU.

Use the remover with paper towels, having Q-Tips handy I also found useful. Especially when cleaning the motherboard (as I highly recommend doing as it WILL be very, very dirty/dusty. Clean everything safely including the fans. Also make sure you have the proper tools to take the 360 apart, mainly the 2 different size screws, research and find out what they are. I forget the numbers off the top of my head but this Boxer 30pc Set is what I use and has them.

I hope that helps you out further as in the end, I am sure you will come out with a working console again. Then hopefully you will not have to do it again anytime soon, but you very likely may but by then you will at least know what you have to do and it saves you the money of buying another console.

I have the same heatgun. Worked like a charm and 24 bucks at the local hardware store. I also love the arctic silver 5 thermal compound. Q-tips are a definite huge help as well. They made the clean-up of the CPU an GPU much easier for me.

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briangw    113

Thanks, mistical and sweetham, I will try this out today. Btw, what is the heat gun used for? I thought the point was to not add more heat to the electronic parts? Is it to loosen up the old compound to remove it with the material remover? I also noticed in the other post that Goo Gone could be used. Is that still ok, because I have some.

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sweetham    4

Thanks, mistical and sweetham, I will try this out today. Btw, what is the heat gun used for? I thought the point was to not add more heat to the electronic parts? Is it to loosen up the old compound to remove it with the material remover? I also noticed in the other post that Goo Gone could be used. Is that still ok, because I have some.

I believe the heat gun helps remold the solder connections on the chips back to the board if there are any cracks or what not due to overheating. As stated by mistical, do not use the heatgun for removing old thermal paste. Use some type of thermal compound removing solution. I used the heat gun only because I had no thermal removal chemicals. It would have been better if I had used the thermal removal chemicals to help break up the old thermal compound off the motherboard.

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mistical    36

Thanks, mistical and sweetham, I will try this out today. Btw, what is the heat gun used for? I thought the point was to not add more heat to the electronic parts? Is it to loosen up the old compound to remove it with the material remover? I also noticed in the other post that Goo Gone could be used. Is that still ok, because I have some.

You are welcome. I just wanted to add more to what sweetham already said (good post). If you do not have thermal material remover, you MIGHT be able to get away with Goo Gone which you can find almost anywhere. It is not hard material to get off, you just want to SAFELY remove it and not use anything that would damage the CPU or GPU.

As sweetham already said, you are applying the heatgun to the general area (not DIRECTLY on) but in a circular motion and just slightly away from the motherboard (do not be directly on it when applying the heat) to the HANA/ANA chip, as well as that area and the CPU and GPU. Like I said, clean off the motherboard and everything first. Before applying any heat, make sure you have it cleaned, mainly just the compound off the CPU and GPU. Then all you are doing with the heat is soldering the connections back into place again. Which if everything done correctly and safely, I am very, very positive you will have the 360 working once again (for the time being--as it is likely to happen again).

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briangw    113

Well, I followed your directions and it still isn't working. I don't know what else I can do. I still have a single red light and the E74 screen. Here are the steps:

I cleaned the two GPUs and the Proc with the 1st solution, getting the most off of the green area as possible. I did the same on the heat syncs. I used Q-tips.

I then used the second solution to cleanse it. Left drops on for 30 seconds. and wiped off with cotton balls/Q-tips.

Used a heat gun close, not touching the board on the front in quick circles and then on the backside.

Let cool for 20 minutes

I then put a small drop of Arctic 5 on each one and spread it out evenly.

Now, getting those X clamps back on on the underside may have caused the heatsyncs to move around on the chips, dispursing the compound. I had a hard time getting them back on. Maybe that's the reason? Oh, and I just realized that I did not heat the HANA/ANA chip. I thought that was the GPU. Anyway, I am going to take it apart again, run the heatgun over the HANA/ANA chip and look for any cracks or other things out of the ordinary. Any other ideas?

What's the recommended time and speed to move the heat gun over the areas?

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briangw    113

I actually found this link that had some suggestions for times. Ultimately, I don't think I had the heat gun on the board long enough (30 seconds, each side I think). I'll try again and report back.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=646900

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mistical    36

One thing concerns me, when you said you used a small drop and covered each evenly on the CPU and GPU. I would be concerned you are not using enough but I would have to see a picture to even know, but keeping in mind you do not want to use too much which from the sounds of it, you already knew that.

Now when you heated each side for 30 seconds, did you just heat up the HANA/ANA chip? or do you do the same on the CPU and GPU on each side? I would say you did not have it on there long enough. I usually do it for about 2 minutes or more on each side again not too close, circular motion as you have been doing but not too far on High. The board will be hot at this point especially when you flip to do the other side. But yeah, focusing on all 3 of those chips and I even do it at angles.

When taking off the X-Clamps, you should use a tiny screw driver to like kind of bend how it is clipped onto the screw/pin. I imagine that is how you took it off? Then the same, minus the tiny screw driver, goes for when you are putting it back on, just snapping them back in place. I have never had a problem with it slighting moving with the compound on while I put the clamps back on, even one time slightly fell off. But again it goes back to when you said you put a small amount on, hopefully it was not too small of an amount.

If I currently had this issue or better yet, had a video camera handy, I would go ahead and record a little video for you for any more help. :\

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briangw    113

One thing concerns me, when you said you used a small drop and covered each evenly on the CPU and GPU. I would be concerned you are not using enough but I would have to see a picture to even know, but keeping in mind you do not want to use too much which from the sounds of it, you already knew that.

Now when you heated each side for 30 seconds, did you just heat up the HANA/ANA chip? or do you do the same on the CPU and GPU on each side? I would say you did not have it on there long enough. I usually do it for about 2 minutes or more on each side again not too close, circular motion as you have been doing but not too far on High. The board will be hot at this point especially when you flip to do the other side. But yeah, focusing on all 3 of those chips and I even do it at angles.

When taking off the X-Clamps, you should use a tiny screw driver to like kind of bend how it is clipped onto the screw/pin. I imagine that is how you took it off? Then the same, minus the tiny screw driver, goes for when you are putting it back on, just snapping them back in place. I have never had a problem with it slighting moving with the compound on while I put the clamps back on, even one time slightly fell off. But again it goes back to when you said you put a small amount on, hopefully it was not too small of an amount.

If I currently had this issue or better yet, had a video camera handy, I would go ahead and record a little video for you for any more help. :\

No worries, this is the best help I have received in a long time. This is why I have been with Neowin for nearly 10 years. The users MAKE this place! :)

for the arctic, about a single grain of rice-size is what I used. It's enough to cover the chip and I noticed when removing one of the clamps, it goes over the side. Not as much as what MS put on it, but I will add just a little more.

I thought the ANA chip was the GPU, so no, I realized I did not do it at all. I will spend more time on the chips. The board as a whole was not hot and i will spend the recommended time. I guess I was nervous about moving the gun around for several minutes, but again, I have nothing left to lose, right? :)

Yes, I used jewelers screwdrivers to pry it off, similar to the old heatsinks from the Pentium 1 days. Seeing you mention the issues getting them back on, was similar to the experiences I had.

Again, thanks for the help. Having someone do this procedure before and then take time out of their weekend to help is just awesome and I really appreciate this! I will report back!

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briangw    113

WOO-HOOOOOO!!!! It worked!!! Spending the two minutes on both sides worked. Thank you all for the advice and help!!!! This was REALLy helpful!!!! :woot:

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mistical    36

No worries, this is the best help I have received in a long time. This is why I have been with Neowin for nearly 10 years. The users MAKE this place! :)

for the arctic, about a single grain of rice-size is what I used. It's enough to cover the chip and I noticed when removing one of the clamps, it goes over the side. Not as much as what MS put on it, but I will add just a little more.

I thought the ANA chip was the GPU, so no, I realized I did not do it at all. I will spend more time on the chips. The board as a whole was not hot and i will spend the recommended time. I guess I was nervous about moving the gun around for several minutes, but again, I have nothing left to lose, right? :)

Yes, I used jewelers screwdrivers to pry it off, similar to the old heatsinks from the Pentium 1 days. Seeing you mention the issues getting them back on, was similar to the experiences I had.

Again, thanks for the help. Having someone do this procedure before and then take time out of their weekend to help is just awesome and I really appreciate this! I will report back!

As long as you do not heat up any other parts of the motherboard, outside of the "open" area where the HANA/ANA, CPU and GPU chip are (on each side) then you should do no damage to the board. But this is not without saying it would not be possible to damage that general area though if too much heat, I would imagine it would. Not like you will be doing that anyways, which is what you are doing circular motions and not sticky, or even too close, to an area that long to help prevent that anyways.

But yes, you have nothing to lose at this point. You are welcome for all the help. If I could physically fix this 360 for you, I would but it is always fun too learning how to do so for the first time and if you ever come across friends that have the problem and if theirs is out of warranty.

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