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Meh, for most photos people take, you can do full automatic and it would turn out really well... why spend 20 minutes adjusting every setting to get the same results?

(However there are times where it is appropriate to adjust quite literally everything in M down to the amount flash power... woot)

opinion: Don't take photos with your camera built in flash, it really doesn't justify your SLR. invest in a decent external flash, you will find out v soon its really worth it

Just opened my new camera, and the first ever picture taken was............

IMG_0245.jpg

Shot in RAW, and understand the balances are off and it's blurry, but I was fiddling with some settings being my first shot with a DSLR

here is another tip:

move your DSLR settings to M, half press the shooting button and focus on the subject, notice the exposure bar, scroll the dot or line on it to between 0 and -0.3 and you will thank me the rest of your life. Oh and make sure your White balance is never auto, set it to the conditions

why take in automatic, when A or S will give you far better results, and more importantly the result you want, with no time to adjust.

if you're gonna shoot auto, get a point and shoot or a bridge.

Agreed. Automatic is for lazy people :D

Agreed. Automatic is for lazy people :D

true, if you are going to use Automatic its better to buy a Canon G11

Aperture and Speed Priority modes are your friend early on :)

for some reason A and S modes still don't do it for me, M for real quality, i know it takes time to get everything in order but worth it in the end

here is another tip:

move your DSLR settings to M, half press the shooting button and focus on the subject, notice the exposure bar, scroll the dot or line on it to between 0 and -0.3 and you will thank me the rest of your life. Oh and make sure your White balance is never auto, set it to the conditions

Coming from someone who has shot thousands upon thousands upon thousands of photos... as long as your shooting RAW (which he is) why would you set your WB to the conditions... Auto more often than not is PERFECT. My WB has never left auto, maybe 1/100 photos I need to adjust because I could manually make the WB a bit better than auto.

If you weren't shooting RAW than yeah WB is a big deal...

However, if you are going to be shooting in the same lighting conditions for a while then sure, why not just go manual WB, but then you may forget to change it back. Just leave it auto.

Coming from someone who has shot thousands upon thousands upon thousands of photos... as long as your shooting RAW (which he is) why would you set your WB to the conditions... Auto more often than not is PERFECT. My WB has never left auto, maybe 1/100 photos I need to adjust because I could manually make the WB a bit better than auto.

If you weren't shooting RAW than yeah WB is a big deal...

However, if you are going to be shooting in the same lighting conditions for a while then sure, why not just go manual WB, but then you may forget to change it back. Just leave it auto.

i noticed you have a nikon, they have a better much AWB than Canon. just talking from experience with my canon. I guess you are right about RAW but thats only if you are just willing to shoot raw and then spending hours editing your pictures to make sure the output from RAW is perfect (post adobe).

i noticed you have a nikon, they have a better much AWB than Canon. just talking from experience with my canon. I guess you are right about RAW but thats only if you are just willing to shoot raw and then spending hours editing your pictures to make sure the output from RAW is perfect (post adobe).

Well, I've never spent "hours" on a batch of photos, but I know what you mean, I guess some people could, even if I take say 400 photos, I will get through them all in a couple mins (if they are in same lighting conditions you can apply same settings to all photos easily in LR). But no, you are totally right, if you are not shooting RAW, than yeah you should manual set WB, I just figured because he said he'd shot this in RAW he plans on doing that indefinitely, in which case he is already editing certain things, a WB change will add maybe 20 seconds (tops)

JPEG = Manual WB

RAW = AWB unless you really want to go manual (but isn't necessary)

EDIT: just another note (sort of contradicting what I said earlier) if you are going to manually adjust each photo individually then yes I have spent an hour on a batch of even 100 photos.

Well, I've never spent "hours" on a batch of photos, but I know what you mean, I guess some people could, even if I take say 400 photos, I will get through them all in a couple mins (if they are in same lighting conditions you can apply same settings to all photos easily in LR). But no, you are totally right, if you are not shooting RAW, than yeah you should manual set WB, I just figured because he said he'd shot this in RAW he plans on doing that indefinitely, in which case he is already editing certain things, a WB change will add maybe 20 seconds (tops)

JPEG = Manual WB

RAW = AWB unless you really want to go manual (but isn't necessary)

EDIT: just another note (sort of contradicting what I said earlier) if you are going to manually adjust each photo individually then yes I have spent an hour on a batch of even 100 photos.

I guess the OP should invest in something like Adobe Lightroom (cheaper) or Adobe Photoshop (unlimited options/plugins). I have, its worth it in the end

I guess the OP should invest in something like Adobe Lightroom (cheaper) or Adobe Photoshop (unlimited options/plugins). I have, its worth it in the end

I only use LR, and it does everything I need, I would recommend that, unless (like you say) you are going to use the more advanced features of photoshop.

LR is GREAT (either way I would recommend it to catalogue all your photos)

Coming from someone who has shot thousands upon thousands upon thousands of photos... as long as your shooting RAW (which he is) why would you set your WB to the conditions... Auto more often than not is PERFECT. My WB has never left auto, maybe 1/100 photos I need to adjust because I could manually make the WB a bit better than auto.

If you weren't shooting RAW than yeah WB is a big deal...

However, if you are going to be shooting in the same lighting conditions for a while then sure, why not just go manual WB, but then you may forget to change it back. Just leave it auto.

I agree with this, AWB is very nice most of the times. However you can always edit it in PP for when it's not. Setting WB in-camera is a waste of shooting time (which IMO is more valuable than processing time). Besides, you can always batch-edit the WB if you're talking about a lot of photos.

I guess the OP should invest in something like Adobe Lightroom (cheaper) or Adobe Photoshop (unlimited options/plugins). I have, its worth it in the end

Well Photoshop is no repalcement for LR, and LR is no replacement for Photoshop. personally for a photographer, I think LR is more important, but having photoshop to will be great. with Lr changing the WB is a few seconds per photo. and then you can do all the other "developing" that makes it such a much better photo to. Like converting to BW where apropriate and adjusting for the right BW look.

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    • Are you going to do performance benchmarks comparing all states? I'd be interested in seeing that in the next "part".
    • My father still uses a programme written in dbase3. Still manages to work with a little help from dosbox. 
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These are essentially called P-States. If you are not familiar with them, Processor Power Management is done through Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) P-states and C-states. While P-states or performance pwoer states handle CPU voltage-frequency scaling, C-states deal with CPU sleep states so that some of the CPU functions, which are not necessary at that moment, can be disabled. The P-states and C-states work together to make the processor run more efficiently. It helps the OS and apps determine which cores can be parked and which should be boosted. Of course not every user is an enthusiast or knows the technicalities and integrities of how things like overclocking or undervolting work. Thankfully for them Windows itself offers something pretty cool, though it is hidden by default on all systems. By default, Windows only has two P-States, "Minimum Processor State" and "Maximum Processor State." However, this can be changed with a Registry trick to expand the options under a secret "Processor performance boost mode" dropdown. This essentially enables the HWP or hardware P-States available on a device, and these are not controlled just by the OS itself as the underlying hardware gets involved too. In total there are five Processor Performance Boost Mode profiles that control how Windows requests and allows CPU turbo/boost behavior under the different power policies. They are: Disabled: In this mode, processor boosting is effectively turned off. The CPU will avoid entering turbo or boost frequencies and instead operate closer to its base frequency ceiling. This can significantly reduce power consumption and heat output, but at the cost of reduced burst performance and responsiveness in short workloads. Enabled: This is the standard behavior where boost functionality is allowed under normal conditions. The processor can opportunistically increase frequency when workload demands it, balancing performance gains with power and thermal constraints as managed by the system. Aggressive: Aggressive mode favors performance more heavily, allowing the CPU to enter higher boost states more readily and sustain them longer. This should in theory improve responsiveness under bursty or heavy workloads but increases power draw and thermal output compared to the default enabled behavior. Efficient Enabled: This mode still allows boosting, but with a stronger bias toward energy efficiency. The system attempts to use boost more selectively, avoiding unnecessary frequency spikes when the performance gain is marginal. Efficient Aggressive: This is a hybrid approach where boost is still performance-responsive, but the system continuously weighs efficiency more heavily than in Aggressive mode. It aims to deliver noticeable performance improvements while reducing wasted power in less demanding scenarios. Here's how to enable the Processor performance boost mode: Open Registry Editor: Press Win+R, type regedit, and click OK. Go to: HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings\54533251-82be-4824-96c1-47b60b740d00\be337238-0d82-4146-a960-4f3749d470c7 (where HKLM stands for HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE_) Modify the value of Attributes from 1 to 2 (you can find modify option by right-clicking) After that, exit Registry, you should now be able to see the new "Processor performance boost mode" dropdown menu: As you can see there are now five new P-States or CPPC states or power profile available that help define the boost mode processor setting on your PC. Wrapping it up here's a quick run-down of the settings as defined by Microsoft itself. Setting Description Disabled The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is disabled. Collaborative Processor Performance Control (CPPC) behaviour is disabled. Enabled The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is enabled. 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