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I have both the Plextor M3 128GB (in the desktop) and the Crucial M4 (in my laptop). I can't really do a good comparison since the laptop is Sata II and the desktop is Sata III, but they are both sufficiently fast. Even crippled by Sata II, the M4 in my laptop is way faster than the crappy Seagate 320gb 7200rpm drive it replaced.

As a new owner of the 128GB Vertex 4 (see my thread here) I have to say that it is a no-brainer to buy it. Right now it is only $149.99 at Newegg.com, but it includes a $15 gift card with it.

For those that don't know, the Vertex 4 is based on an updated design of the same Marvell controller that is in the Crucial M4 SSDs. OCZ was stretching the truth a bit when they said it was Indilinx Everest 2 based. But although the controller is pretty much the same, the firmware is 100% OCZ designed, and that is what truly counts. Like others already mentioned, the new v1.4 firmware doubles the write performance of the 128GB drive, which puts it in a class of its own. It is quite simply the world's fastest 128GB solid state drive right now.

As far the as the firmware update process goes, I will say that is pretty bad, but not something that should deter you from buying it. The whole process shouldn't take more than 15 minutes, but it is not user friendly. And you will need to update it as I just bought my Vertex 4 on Monday last week and they are still shipping with v1.3 firmware. Firstly, it is a destructive update, meaning all data on the drive will be destroyed. This won't matter to you, but should be mentioned. Secondly, the OCZ SSD ToolBox tool has to be run from a Windows PC to do the update. So before you go destroying your current setup, you'll first need to plug in your Vertex 4 into a spare SATA port on your motherboard, boot into Windows using your current VelociRapter, and run the OCZ update tool from there. Thirdly, the tool has problems running with Intel's ACHI SATA drivers, so you will need to into your Device Manager, locate your IDE ATAPI section, find your Intel ACHI SATA controller, right-click and select Update Drivers, select Browse My Computer..., then select Let Me Pick.., and finally select the Standard ACHI 1.0 SATA Controller driver. I've included a screenshot below showing you. You will need to restart after doing this. Be sure that after the update the process is done you switch back to the Intel ACHI driver from the standard one. And finally, after you run the tool it will say update completed successfully, but sometimes the update doesn't "stay" properly. So after updating the SSD firmware, you should fully shut-down your computer (don't just restart), let it stay powered-down for about 60 seconds, and then turn it back on. You can run OCZ's tool once more just to verify your firmware version.

If you do everything above correctly, you'll install v1.4 no problems :)

post-58800-0-56885800-1338164652_thumb.j

As a new owner of the 128GB Vertex 4 (see my thread here) I have to say that it is a no-brainer to buy it. Right now it is only $149.99 at Newegg.com, but it includes a $15 gift card with it.

For those that don't know, the Vertex 4 is based on an updated design of the same Marvell controller that is in the Crucial M4 SSDs. OCZ was stretching the truth a bit when they said it was Indilinx Everest 2 based. But although the controller is pretty much the same, the firmware is 100% OCZ designed, and that is what truly counts. Like others already mentioned, the new v1.4 firmware doubles the write performance of the 128GB drive, which puts it in a class of its own. It is quite simply the world's fastest 128GB solid state drive right now.

As far the as the firmware update process goes, I will say that is pretty bad, but not something that should deter you from buying it. The whole process shouldn't take more than 15 minutes, but it is not user friendly. And you will need to update it as I just bought my Vertex 4 on Monday last week and they are still shipping with v1.3 firmware. Firstly, it is a destructive update, meaning all data on the drive will be destroyed. This won't matter to you, but should be mentioned. Secondly, the OCZ SSD ToolBox tool has to be run from a Windows PC to do the update. So before you go destroying your current setup, you'll first need to plug in your Vertex 4 into a spare SATA port on your motherboard, boot into Windows using your current VelociRapter, and run the OCZ update tool from there. Thirdly, the tool has problems running with Intel's ACHI SATA drivers, so you will need to into your Device Manager, locate your IDE ATAPI section, find your Intel ACHI SATA controller, right-click and select Update Drivers, select Browse My Computer..., then select Let Me Pick.., and finally select the Standard ACHI 1.0 SATA Controller driver. I've included a screenshot below showing you. You will need to restart after doing this. Be sure that after the update the process is done you switch back to the Intel ACHI driver from the standard one. And finally, after you run the tool it will say update completed successfully, but sometimes the update doesn't "stay" properly. So after updating the SSD firmware, you should fully shut-down your computer (don't just restart), let it stay powered-down for about 60 seconds, and then turn it back on. You can run OCZ's tool once more just to verify your firmware version.

If you do everything above correctly, you'll install v1.4 no problems :)

post-58800-0-56885800-1338164652_thumb.j

Wow, this is great! I'm probably going to end up going with the Vertex 4 (sorry all you M4'ers out there :p), so this will definitely come in handy! Thanks so much!

In a word - reliability - Crucial's track record is as good as the most reliable SSD makers. OCZ on the other hand have a reputation that suffered horribly through using SandForce controllers. With the recent price changes, the M4 is a very compelling offering.

Seriously???

So you shouldn't buy an SSD that has an updated version of the Marvell controller you suggest in an inferior drive just because some of the manufacturers previous drives used a Sandforce controller?!?!?!

It can be faster. Nothing is totally instant and until it is, it can be faster. I am pretty sure there isn't a single SSD in the world that makes things instant. I guess a PCIe based SSD would be better but still not instant.

The funny part is, the first Revo (which I own) is both lacking in TRIM and Windows detects it as an HD.

I think they cleared up everything with Revo3 at any rate.

Guys, me too joined the club. Got myself a Corsair GT 120GB. It went in my 2010 MBP. I noticed increased responsiveness straight away in OSX Lion as well as Windows 7 X64. But speed tests indicate Maximum read/write speeds of 252/164 mBps only? The packaging had this huge ass sticker which mentions read/write speeds of 500/500 mBps. What gives?

Its on latest firmware and looks like the controller on my MBP is Sata2 and AHCI is not enabled. Bugger!!!!

Seriously???

So you shouldn't buy an SSD that has an updated version of the Marvell controller you suggest in an inferior drive just because some of the manufacturers previous drives used a Sandforce controller?!?!?!

No - I wouldn't buy an SSD built by a manufacturer based upon my perception of the quality of their previous (now obsolete) product. Especially given that other manufacturers also released SandForce drives that didn't suffer from the same issues, or in fact any issues. This to me speaks volumes in terms of OCZ's ability to engineer, test and release to market a quality product - doesn't matter what hardware they are using.

The M4 might be inferior to the OCZ product in performance - although I would argue the performance difference would be negligible - Crucial products certainly are not inferior in terms of quality. I have far better things to spend my time on than dealing with RMAing my purchases in the hope of a small performance gain - so reliability always beats performance to me.

I am not recommending either product - the OP has to make his own decision. I am just offering my perspective.

Unfortunately the comments about the SF-2281 drives are correct.

When I built my rig I purchased a 60 gig OCZ Agility 3, and whilst it's still miles faster than a mechanical hard drive, random reads and writes aren't amazing and I don't get the instant on effect some people with higher end SSD's get. As I only purchased it as a boot drive it suits my needs but if you're going to use your drive for other things I can only +1 the recommendation to avoid Sandforce drives.

Unfortunately the comments about the SF-2281 drives are correct.

When I built my rig I purchased a 60 gig OCZ Agility 3, and whilst it's still miles faster than a mechanical hard drive, random reads and writes aren't amazing and I don't get the instant on effect some people with higher end SSD's get. As I only purchased it as a boot drive it suits my needs but if you're going to use your drive for other things I can only +1 the recommendation to avoid Sandforce drives.

I've still yet to order this drive for some reason. The OCZ V4 has an Indilinx controller, right? Not Sandforce?

Vertex 4 is definitely a great SSD. I personally have two Vertex 3 in raid 0 and they are blazing fast.

Honestly, between the Vertex 4, Vertex 3, and M4, you really won't see a serious difference between the realworld speeds. If one is significantly cheaper than the other, then just go with it.

I bought both of my 120GB Vertex 3 drives for $100 each, so if you can find it close to that, I'd say definitely go with it.

I have a vertex 3 128M and honestly i did not have any problems with it. The price was awesome i think it was 120$ CAD. I did not get it at lauch tough only 6 months ago and i updated it to the last firmware before installing windows. I never buy products at lauch it's always a bad idea even from reliable companies.

I don't think there's going to be much of a difference between M4 and Vertex 4 for real life usage. If M4 is 50$ less and is well rated by reviewers then i would go for this one.

But i don't think you can go wrong with a vertex 4 either.

After quite a bit of cogitation, I have ordered the Vertex 4! In the end, it came down a variety of factors: warranty, reviews/benchmarks, controller, and of course, cost/value relationship (which may seem ironic). Thanks to everyone who helped me, and I'll re-post an assessment here once I've installed the drive. :)

I've still yet to order this drive for some reason. The OCZ V4 has an Indilinx controller, right? Not Sandforce?

Correct, the Agility series are budget drives, the Vertex 4 indeed does have an indillix controller. It's far better than the drive I have

^^

7200RPM 500Gb 2.5" Seagate drive.

The Force GT is definitely faster but not as instant what everyone claims SSDs are.

Installing Windows 7 takes 20 min (starting from setup screen next to drive partition) on Seagate while it takes 18 min on Corsair Force GT.

Speeds have settled to 140 mBps write and 230 mBps read which is a far cry compared to 550/550 write/read printed on the packaging.

TRIM is enabled by default in Windows and can be enabled using a utility in OSX ML DP3.2.

Things holding me back:

1. AHCI is disabled and needs some MBR patching, hackery in OSX and lot of registry tweaks in Windows. What a load of Bull.

2. 2010 MBP is Sata2 @ 3Gbps (Now confirmed by me) which is a bit of a downer.

Need to throw the whole laptop in bin and start from scratch for best possible experience I guess.

SSDs being more expensive in India is a nice cherry on top. (I got it for Rs. 10150 or ~ $180 and it retails for $129 in US on Amazon or Newegg)

^^

7200RPM 500Gb 2.5" Seagate drive.

The Force GT is definitely faster but not as instant what everyone claims SSDs are.

Installing Windows 7 takes 20 min (starting from setup screen next to drive partition) on Seagate while it takes 18 min on Corsair Force GT.

Speeds have settled to 140 mBps write and 230 mBps read which is a far cry compared to 550/550 write/read printed on the packaging.

TRIM is enabled by default in Windows and can be enabled using a utility in OSX ML DP3.2.

Things holding me back:

1. AHCI is disabled and needs some MBR patching, hackery in OSX and lot of registry tweaks in Windows. What a load of Bull.

2. 2010 MBP is Sata2 @ 3Gbps (Now confirmed by me) which is a bit of a downer.

Need to throw the whole laptop in bin and start from scratch for best possible experience I guess.

SSDs being more expensive in India is a nice cherry on top. (I got it for Rs. 10150 or ~ $180 and it retails for $129 in US on Amazon or Newegg)

Yeah, you're definitely being held back. I built a PC for my friend about 9 months ago - it had a Core i7 2600K and 256GB Crucial M4 SSD. I believe Windows 7 took around 7 minutes to install.

The new computer I just built for work has a Core i7 3770S and 128GB Vertex 4, and Windows 7 installed in 4 minutes, 33 seconds. I should have recorded it with my phone instead of just timing it - oh well. Part of the reason for the speed-up on my "Ivy Bridge"/V4 versus my friend's "Sandy Bridge"/M4 setup is that I installed Win7 from a Patriot Supersonic USB 3.0 drive. So it was the most ideal install setup you could have (super-fast CPU, super-fast SSD, super-fast USB 3.0 install media).

Yeah, you're definitely being held back. I built a PC for my friend about 9 months ago - it had a Core i7 2600K and 256GB Crucial M4 SSD. I believe Windows 7 took around 7 minutes to install.

The new computer I just built for work has a Core i7 3770S and 128GB Vertex 4, and Windows 7 installed in 4 minutes, 33 seconds. I should have recorded it with my phone instead of just timing it - oh well. Part of the reason for the speed-up on my "Ivy Bridge"/V4 versus my friend's "Sandy Bridge"/M4 setup is that I installed Win7 from a Patriot Supersonic USB 3.0 drive. So it was the most ideal install setup you could have (super-fast CPU, super-fast SSD, super-fast USB 3.0 install media).

Just popped into my head: How much does the emptiness/fullness of the drive affect the speed? For example, when I get my SSD, I won't be doing a cold install. I'm going to transfer my entire drive (80GB used) to it. It shouldn't be noticeable, right?

The Corsair GT 120GB drive I am using has not substantially improved my boot times. What a pure unadulterated waste of money! :(

With my Agility 3, my boot time decreased from about 45 to 25 seconds, which whilst an improvement isn't the mammoth "almost instant on" that some people are reporting. From what I heard the higher capacity drives are a lot faster than the slower ones.

Just popped into my head: How much does the emptiness/fullness of the drive affect the speed? For example, when I get my SSD, I won't be doing a cold install. I'm going to transfer my entire drive (80GB used) to it. It shouldn't be noticeable, right?

Very little. SSD's don't suffer from any of the problems that inhibit the performance of mechanical hard disks so although it's still advisable to keep a little space free for system writes, having a full drive won't really degrade performance too much.

^^

7200RPM 500Gb 2.5" Seagate drive.

The Force GT is definitely faster but not as instant what everyone claims SSDs are.

Installing Windows 7 takes 20 min (starting from setup screen next to drive partition) on Seagate while it takes 18 min on Corsair Force GT.

Speeds have settled to 140 mBps write and 230 mBps read which is a far cry compared to 550/550 write/read printed on the packaging.

TRIM is enabled by default in Windows and can be enabled using a utility in OSX ML DP3.2.

Things holding me back:

1. AHCI is disabled and needs some MBR patching, hackery in OSX and lot of registry tweaks in Windows. What a load of Bull.

2. 2010 MBP is Sata2 @ 3Gbps (Now confirmed by me) which is a bit of a downer.

Need to throw the whole laptop in bin and start from scratch for best possible experience I guess.

SSDs being more expensive in India is a nice cherry on top. (I got it for Rs. 10150 or ~ $180 and it retails for $129 in US on Amazon or Newegg)

Well if you don't have a SATA 3 port, you'll definitely be holding back about half of the potential speed. But it still sounds like it's a little on the slow side.

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    • AdGuard Family lifetime deal now only $14.97 by Steven Parker Today's highlighted Neowin Deal comes via our Apps + Software section, where you can get a lifetime subscription and save 91% on a lifetime AdGuard Family Plan. AdGuard is a unique program that has all the necessary features for what they claim to be "the best web experience." The software combines the an advanced ad blocker, a privacy protection module, and a parental control tool—all working in one app. This software deals with annoying ads, hides your data from a multitude of trackers, protects you from malware attacks, and even lets you restrict your kids from accessing inappropriate content. Install AdGuard and see the internet as it was supposed to be: clean and safe. Get rid of annoying banners, pop-ups & video ads once and for all Hide your data from the multitude of trackers & activity analyzers that swarm the web Avoid fraudulent and phishing website and malware attacks Protect your kids online by restricting them from accessing inappropriate & adult content Good to know Family Plan Length of access: lifetime This plan is only available to new users Redemption deadline: redeem your code within 30 days of purchase Max number of devices: 9 Access options: desktop & mobile Software version: AdGuard Family Updates included A lifetime subscription of AdGuard Family Plan normally costs $169.99, but this deal can be yours for just $14.97, that's a saving of $157.02. For full terms, specifications, and license info please click the link below. Get this AdGuard Family lifetime deal for just $14.97 (was $169.99) Although priced in U.S. dollars, this deal is available for digital purchase worldwide. As an online publication, Neowin too relies on ads for operating costs and, if you use an ad blocker, we'd appreciate being whitelisted. In addition, we have an ad-free subscription for $28 a year, which is another way to show support! Support queries If you have queries or need support for any of the Neowin Deals, please use the contact form here. Neowin Deals are managed and sold by StackCommerce who represent Neowin on an affiliate basis. Why we post these deals We post these because we earn commission on each sale so as not to rely solely on advertising, which many of our readers block. It all helps toward paying staff reporters, servers and hosting costs. So for those that keep moaning and complaining, be thankful we're still online for you to even do that. Other ways to support Neowin Whitelist Neowin by not blocking our ads Create a free member account to see fewer ads Make a donation to support our day to day running costs Subscribe to Neowin - for $14 a year, or $28 a year for an ad-free experience Disclosure: Neowin benefits from revenue of each sale made through our branded deals site powered by StackCommerce.
    • Sadly "beats Steam Machine" isn't much of a brag.
    • Passkeys: Think of them like a broken heart necklace. Imagine one of those heart necklaces that breaks into two matching pieces. One person keeps one half, and the other person keeps the other half. With passkeys, the website has one half, and you have the other half. If the website gets hacked and someone steals its half, that stolen piece is useless by itself. It cannot unlock your account without your matching half. This particular heart necklace is one of a kind, there is only one in existence. Your half of the necklace has to be stored somewhere. It might be stored on your phone, tablet, computer, security key, or a password manager that can sync it between all your devices. A security key is a small physical device that you keep with you, kind of like a house key, car key, or flash drive. I would not usually recommend a security key as the first option for the average person. For most people, it is easier to use their phone, computer, or a password manager that can sync passkeys between their devices. A security key is more like a spare key you keep in a safe place, just in case you lose access to your other devices or your password manager. Some security keys plug into your computer. Some plug into your phone or tablet. Some get tapped against your device. The idea is simple: a security key can hold another passkey for the same website. Think of it like creating a second one-of-a-kind heart necklace for the same account. One necklace could be paired with your password manager, while another necklace could be paired with your security key. That means the website has more than one matching half on file. One half matches the passkey in your password manager. Another half matches the passkey stored on your security key. So, if you lose access to your phone, computer, or password manager, you would still be able to log in using the passkey stored on your security key. Think of it like keeping an extra special necklace piece on a tiny keychain, stored somewhere safe. The website still has the matching half for that security key, but your half is safely stored inside the little key. A passkey does not automatically exist on every device you own. It lives wherever you save it. If your half is stored on one device, then that device is the one that has the matching piece. For example, if you create the passkey on your Windows computer and it is only saved to that computer, your iPhone does not automatically have that same half. If you create it on your iPhone and it only stays on that iPhone, your Android phone does not automatically have it either. That is where password managers come in. A password manager can act like a protected jewelry box for your passkeys. Instead of your half of the necklace being locked to only one device, the password manager can securely sync that half to your other approved devices. For example, Apple Passwords and iCloud Keychain can sync passkeys between your Apple devices. Google Password Manager can sync passkeys with your Google account. But password managers such as 1Password and Bitwarden can sync passkeys between everything, your phones, tablets and computers. Now, you might ask: “What happens if I lose access to the device that has my passkey?” That depends on where your passkey was saved and what recovery options the website gives you. If your passkey was synced through a password manager, you may be able to sign in from another device that has access to that same password manager. For example, if your passkey is saved in iCloud Keychain, Google Password Manager, 1Password, or Bitwarden, another approved device may still have access to it. If your passkey was saved only on one phone, computer, or security key, and you lose that device, then you may not have your half of the necklace anymore. In that case, you would usually need to use the website’s backup login or account recovery options. A lot of websites that support passkeys still let you fall back to your regular password. So if you lose access to your passkey, the site may still let you log in with your password, a code sent to your email, a text message, a recovery code, or some other account recovery process. That is convenient, but it is also important to understand: if the website still allows password login, then your password still matters. Passkeys are safer than passwords, but if your account still has a password as a backup, you should still use a strong, unique password and turn on two-factor authentication if the website offers it. This is why it is a good idea to have more than one safe way back into important accounts. For example, you might keep your passkey in a syncing password manager, add a second trusted device, save recovery codes somewhere safe, or set up a backup security key. A passkey is very secure, but just like a real key, you need a backup plan in case you lose access to it. Now, you might ask: “What stops a hacker from copying my half of the necklace?” That’s the important part: your half is protected. It is not something you type in, and it is not something the website gets to keep. Think of your half as being locked inside a tiny safe on your phone, computer, security key, or password manager. That safe only opens when you approve it with your fingerprint, face, PIN, or device password. When you log in, the website does not need to see your half. It only needs proof that your half matches its half. Your actual half is not handed over to the website. This is different from a password. With a password, you type the secret into the website. If you type it into a fake website, the hacker now has it. With a passkey, you are not typing your secret into the website. Your device is proving you have the matching half without giving the half away. That also helps protect you from fake websites. If someone makes a fake login page that looks like the real site, your device can tell it is not the real match. It will not use your passkey there. Now, could someone use your passkey if they stole your device, got into your password manager, or somehow unlocked the safe that holds your half? Yes, that is why your device password, PIN, fingerprint, face unlock, and password manager security still matter. But a hacker cannot just steal your passkey from the website or trick you into typing it into a fake page like they can with a password. That is why passkeys are safer than passwords. The two matching pieces have to come together, like two lovebirds who were once separated and are finally reunited.
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