Windows 7 Crashed on Boot. What The Heck is This?


Recommended Posts

Windows 7 crashed on me on boot. This is the second time it does that. Last time was about 3 months ago. Has anyone experienced this?

Problem signature:

Problem Event Name: BlueScreen

OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.768.3

Locale ID: 1033

Additional information about the problem:

BCCode: 4e

BCP1: 0000000000000099

BCP2: 00000000003E5A73

BCP3: 0000000000000000

BCP4: 0000000000003A73

OS Version: 6_1_7601

Service Pack: 1_0

Product: 768_1

Files that help describe the problem:

C:\Windows\Minidump\010213-12807-01.dmp

C:\Users\Scorbing\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-20794-0.sysdata.xml

Read our privacy statement online:

http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?linkid=104288&clcid=0x0409

If the online privacy statement is not available, please read our privacy statement offline:

C:\Windows\system32\en-US\erofflps.txt

A "4e" bugcheck equals "PFN_LIST_CORRUPT". According to Microsoft:

Cause

This error is typically caused by a driver passing a bad memory descriptor list. For example, the driver might have called MmUnlockPages twice with the same list.

If a kernel debugger is available, examine the stack trace.

In my experience, this is usually the case - a driver has caused some sort of memory list issue in the way it's freeing memory pages, and causes the crash. Without at least a kernel memory dump file of the issue, however, you now know everything that can be gleaned from the crash.

A "4e" bugcheck equals "PFN_LIST_CORRUPT". According to Microsoft:

In my experience, this is usually the case - a driver has caused some sort of memory list issue in the way it's freeing memory pages, and causes the crash. Without at least a kernel memory dump file of the issue, however, you now know everything that can be gleaned from the crash.

Video driver perhaps?

Who knows? Usually something loaded in nonpaged pool, but honestly it could be any driver that is accessing memory. The video driver isn't necessarily the only kind of driver that can do that ;). I usually suspect storage drivers, but I've seen video drivers do it, ramdisk drivers, etc.

http://msdn.microsof...2(v=VS.85).aspx

Who knows? Usually something loaded in nonpaged pool, but honestly it could be any driver that is accessing memory. The video driver isn't necessarily the only kind of driver that can do that ;). I usually suspect storage drivers, but I've seen video drivers do it, ramdisk drivers, etc.

http://msdn.microsof...2(v=VS.85).aspx

Mmmmmm...I wonder if its Skydrive?

OK I left Memtest86+ running all night and although its still not done yet, it found 5 errors. Now my question:

How do I know which memory chip is bad? Does Memtest86+ tell you which one is bad? Anyone knows?

Well the tests are done. Here's the results. I guess I'm screwed. My question is though, which module is bad? How can I tell from this result which one is faulty?

I have two 8GB modules installed for a total of 16GB.

acsD4TSQ.jpg

OK I left Memtest86+ running all night and although its still not done yet, it found 5 errors. Now my question:

How do I know which memory chip is bad? Does Memtest86+ tell you which one is bad? Anyone knows?

Just remove the sticks one by one and retest until you figure out which one is is. Can be a bit tedious, but it's the best way to know for sure which one is faulty.

Edit: Just saw your recent post with the screenshot. Well, at least you have a 50/50 chance of pulling the right one first! Based on your image, I would try the 2nd populated RAM slot first. The slots will be numbered on the mobo.

I feel you, scorbing! I woke up on Christmas day to a desktop that just won't power on. If it wasn't the one with all of my movies/mp3's on it, I wouldn't really care too much, but now I have to save up for a new power supply. Sorry that had to happen though, bro!

Well the tests are done. Here's the results. I guess I'm screwed. My question is though, which module is bad? How can I tell from this result which one is faulty?

I have two 8GB modules installed for a total of 16GB.

You're not screwed. 8gb should easily get you by until you replace it. Take one module out at a time (place it in DIMM 1), run the test, if it passes, that's a good stick. To make sure the other really is bad, take out the good one and put in the bad. Your computer should go "beeeeeeeppp". Shut it down, put the good one in. Windows should start up fine now. :)

I feel you, scorbing! I woke up on Christmas day to a desktop that just won't power on. If it wasn't the one with all of my movies/mp3's on it, I wouldn't really care too much, but now I have to save up for a new power supply. Sorry that had to happen though, bro!

Are you sure the pins are on correctly? :)

A co-worker of mine saw the test results and he tells me that my memory timings are way off. Can you guys concur with that?

I have high speed Kingston gaming memory on that PC DD3 1333.

you might be screwed, with those memory addresses it looks like you have errors on the 1st card and errors on the 2nd card...

but do the single card test to be sure, just pull one, make sure the other remaining one is in the correct slow, reseat it just to be sure its in right... run the test again... if it fails swap them and repeat

you might be screwed, with those memory addresses it looks like you have errors on the 1st card and errors on the 2nd card...

Which is highly unlikely.

A co-worker of mine saw the test results and he tells me that my memory timings are way off. Can you guys concur with that?

I have high speed Kingston gaming memory on that PC DD3 1333.

If this is gaming memory the proper timing and speed should be written on the sticks.

Are you sure the pins are on correctly? :)

Yeah, I've taken it out and tested out a lower rated wattage power supply in place of it, and everything worked. In fact, it's been acting strange since July. See, in my area, we are prone to power outages....a few months back, one happened, and when I tried to power up the old beast, the power light would blink, then shut right off. To remedy, I'd unplug it for about 15 minutes, then plug it back in, which worked for quite a while...up until christmas morning, anyway...so I knew it was coming. This laptop blows that old thing out of the water spec wise anyway, so I'm in no major rush to get it fixed. It's an old P4 machine. If I could afford an upgrade, trust me, I would do that instead of pumping more money into such an ancient system, but it's all I've got desktop wise, and it does what I need it to do, runs 7 like a champ, streams video to my ps3, SOME...and I mean some gaming (It's got an ATI HD3650 512MB AGPx4 video card, lol), but mostly, I leave it on as sort of a NAS. Oh well.

It's kinda an odd pattern that the failures are showing. Have you tried blowing out the DIMM slots?

Good point, GreyWolf....could be some dust build up, perhaps? (I'd rather it be something simple like that than to see you have to fork over some hard earned cash to invest in new memory modules!)

A co-worker of mine saw the test results and he tells me that my memory timings are way off. Can you guys concur with that?

I have high speed Kingston gaming memory on that PC DD3 1333.

Maybe reset your bios to fail safe defaults and see if that fixes your timing issues?

Yeah, I've taken it out and tested out a lower rated wattage power supply in place of it, and everything worked. In fact, it's been acting strange since July. See, in my area, we are prone to power outages....a few months back, one happened, and when I tried to power up the old beast, the power light would blink, then shut right off. To remedy, I'd unplug it for about 15 minutes, then plug it back in, which worked for quite a while...up until christmas morning, anyway...so I knew it was coming. This laptop blows that old thing out of the water spec wise anyway, so I'm in no major rush to get it fixed. It's an old P4 machine. If I could afford an upgrade, trust me, I would do that instead of pumping more money into such an ancient system, but it's all I've got desktop wise, and it does what I need it to do, runs 7 like a champ, streams video to my ps3, SOME...and I mean some gaming (It's got an ATI HD3650 512MB AGPx4 video card, lol), but mostly, I leave it on as sort of a NAS. Oh well.

Oh, well that's too bad. You need to get a surge protector and a UPS for yourself. :p

Well I fixed the latency settings on the BIOS. I also deleted the partitions and re-installed Windows, but this time I installed Windows 8 Pro. So far, so good. Played BF3 for 2 hours and no blue screen of death. It is very weird.

I downloaded a utility that reads the blue screen errors and translates then into an understandable format and apparently the Windows 7 kernel was failing plus a bunch of other stuff. Maybe I caught a virus? I don't know.

Well I fixed the latency settings on the BIOS. I also deleted the partitions and re-installed Windows, but this time I installed Windows 8 Pro. So far, so good. Played BF3 for 2 hours and no blue screen of death. It is very weird.

I downloaded a utility that reads the blue screen errors and translates then into an understandable format and apparently the Windows 7 kernel was failing plus a bunch of other stuff. Maybe I caught a virus? I don't know.

You had memory that was faulting, you proved this, why would you think you had a virus? Have you ran memtest since you fixed the timings?

This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Posts

    • Why you need to take back control of your synced passwords and how to go about doing that by Paul Hill Credit: Pixabay Last month, when Google decided to introduce daily and weekly caps for Gemini, it reignited an anxiety of mine, that you can’t really depend on service providers to maintain features forever, and it got me looking into free software (as in freedom) in other areas too. One app I quickly came across was KeePassXC on desktop and KeePassDX on Android as an alternative to password manager lock-in within the Chrome or Firefox ecosystems. I personally like to switch around with browsers, and using either password manager is inconvenient, so something like KeePassXC was interesting to me. The main issue with it now is syncing; I was not sure how to do that. After a bit of research, I came across Syncthing, a tool I was vaguely familiar with but had never used because it seemed complicated. However, I was completely wrong, and honestly, I think everyone should use it if they use multiple devices. It essentially lets you share folders peer to peer across all of your devices, no cloud services that you don’t control necessary! And it was fairly simple to set up, if not a bit clunky. Since setting it up, I’ve also started using Syncthing to back up other apps too, so don’t think it’s limited to just saving password databases. You can use it for pretty much anything you use Dropbox or Google Drive for. Before continuing to talk about those apps a bit more, let’s walk back a bit and talk about browser sync. Ever since the late 2000s and early 2010s, really, since we have been using smartphones, browser sync has been a necessity of life. I don’t know about you, but I have hundreds of passwords saved. For the most part, they’re all unique, so I don’t remember them and rely on software to manage them for me. Until recently, I’ve relied on password managers in Chrome and Firefox, but what I always found annoying was that it can be hard to transfer them between browsers. Sure, on Windows it is simple enough, but on Linux, exporting bookmarks has been temperamental. It works OK nowadays, but not too long ago, Chrome required you to enable exporting passwords in chrome://flags. The situation is even worse on mobile; there is no exporting or importing of passwords of any kind. You literally have to do it on a desktop, which is incredibly annoying in our mobile-first world. Sync also lets us take out bookmarks, history, tabs, and autofill data easily. To enable sync, it’s just a matter of signing into the browser once, and it handles the rest. It’s nice and easy. Obviously, all this has some issues, including those I’ve outlined above about it being hard to transfer data between browsers, but also things such as account suspension, lost account passwords, and other lock-in mechanisms, such as passkeys, being tied to a specific browser. On a sidenote, I have just removed all of my passkeys because they can make it harder to move browsers. I think the biggest threat to your synced passwords, especially if doing this with Google, is having your account suspended. I don’t ever expect mine to be suspended, but you do hear horror stories on Reddit where people lose access to their Google accounts. Imagine if you have hundreds of passwords, then suddenly lose access to them because Google froze your account, what would you do? So yes, it can be nice to use these syncing services for their convenience, but they also have risks. You may have seen me going on about free software quite a bit in my editorials. It’s essentially a concept championed by the Free Software Foundation. It’s software under particular licenses that grant you four freedoms: run the program for any purpose (0), study and change the source code (1), redistribute copies to others (2), and the freedom to distribute modified copies to others (3). For example, if there is an app I use and one day it gets abandoned by the developer, I can keep running it or even clone the software and continue developing it. Look at the myriad of cool services Google has run over the years before killing them. You can’t take the source code for those because they are proprietary, for the most part. Both KeePassXC and Syncthing are free software, so I get the freedoms listed above. In my use case where I’m syncing a database full of my passwords, I also get proper ownership over my data, there is no losing access to the database due to a frozen account, I can access the code of the tools I’m using, and I can get support from real people online if I run into issues, rather than having to consult a vague help page from an opaque company. With the KeePassXC password manager, you create a .kdbx file, which is what will be synced between devices. KeePassXC has cross-platform apps and also has browser extensions so that the browser can fetch passwords from the database once it is unlocked. Meanwhile, Syncthing is a peer-to-peer file sync tool where you can select folders to sync between your devices. Just pop files in the folders you choose, and then they will be available across your other devices whenever they come online. Syncthing is resilient as it works over both LAN and the internet and only ever sends content between your devices, never to a third-party server somewhere else. By combining these two pieces of software, you can essentially replicate the browser sync functionality. I have had a weird, conflicting issue where a new file is appearing, but it doesn’t seem to be impacting my main password database, which is updating between devices just fine. If you want to get a setup similar to what I have, you will need to go here to download KeePassXC for your computer. Once you have that, you will need to download your passwords from your web browser to a CSV file. In Chrome, you can type chrome://password-manager/settings into the URL bar, and you should see an option to download your passwords under Export Passwords. This will give you the CSV file you need for importing into KeePassXC. If you use a different browser, just use a search engine and type “browser-name export passwords” and muddle along. In KeePassXC, you’ll want to press Import File from the home screen, select the CSV file, and create a new database from it. On one of the screens of the wizard, there will be a Title field with a drop-down selected to none. Change this to Title and continue. You’ll select a name for the database, the encryption level (the defaults are fine), and then you will pick a password. I would choose four unrelated words that are easy for you to remember, as you’ll be typing them fairly often to access your passwords. When you have all your passwords in your new database, you will want to set up the browser extension so that your browser can fetch passwords from KeePassXC. Rather than explain how to do that here, refer to KeePassXC’s guide on how to set it up properly. Once you’ve got that set up, you want to install KeePassDX on Android. You can grab it on the F-Droid store and the Google Play Store. For iPhone users, there are other .kdbx-supporting apps, but I haven’t tried any of them, so have a look around and use what suits you. Once you have that done, you will want to install Syncthing on your computer and find a third-party app for your mobile device. On Android, I use an app called BasicSync; there are also options for iOS, but again, I’ve not tried these. Once you’ve got SyncThing, you’ll want to set it up and connect all of your devices together and share a folder between your gadgets. PCWorld has a good tutorial on setting up a synchronized file between your devices using SyncThing. Once you’ve set it up, congrats, you’ll never have to touch that stuff again except for adding or removing devices. I’ll be honest, I didn’t particularly like setting up Syncthing. It didn’t take me a massive amount of time, but I think I had to check online because I found it a bit confusing. That said, I’ve had it running for several weeks now and never need to touch the Syncthing settings, so that’s very nice. I also mentioned a conflicting file. I’m not sure why this is appearing, but the main .kdbx file seems to be updating and syncing just fine. What’s nice is that both KeePassXC and Syncthing are free software, so they won’t just vanish one day; you can take the code and fork the project or use a range of alternative implementations that others have made. It’s also nice that it works over LAN, so even if your ISP is having problems, your passwords will still sync. One area where you will want to be a bit more careful with this setup is if you only have one device. I am OK because I have a computer and two phones, all synced up. If you just have one device, you will probably want to store a backup of your .kdbx file somewhere else. Obviously, you’ll also want to remember your password really well, too. If you get locked out, it's game over. Overall, if you want to take back control of your computing from big tech, taking control of your passwords is an important part of this. You don’t need to immediately clear out your browser’s password manager; try running KeePassXC and the password manager concurrently for a while to see if you run into any problems. If you do try this out, let us know some other creative ways to use Syncthing. I haven’t really come up with a solution about what to do with my bookmarks, for example.
    • If the price was a dollar, someone would complain "Why isn't it free?" If it was free, someone would complain they weren't being paid to play it.
    • That lens of history will burn if you hold it at the right angle... Warn users too late: Shame, Microsoft! That extremely minor update to an obscure Control Panel widget required 2 years of warning. Warn users too early: Shame, Microsoft! We've got better things to do. Pipeline and process be damned, we'll just always be disappointed, eh?
    • Microsoft Paint used to be my favorite Windows app as a kid, and it's still pretty good by Usama Jawad I have been using Windows since the early 2000s, when I was around 10 years old or so. I vaguely remember playing around with Windows 98 and Windows 2000, but that may have been on school PCs which had old operating systems installed. My main OS on the home PC, and the one I recall spending most time with, was Windows XP. At that time, I used the home PC to create Word and PowerPoint documents for school, but a lot of the time, I simply used it to play games. My dad would bring game discs which we would try and install on the PC, sometimes unsuccessfully, and sometimes, we would rely on flash games in the browser, like Bubble Trouble on Miniclip. However, the problem with the latter approach was the internet speed. On a good day, our dial-up internet would offer us speeds of 56 kbps, but on most days, it was closer to 33 kbps. This did not facilitate online gaming as I would often have to wait minutes for a game to load or "draw" on the screen, and trying to download pirated games wasn't simple either. I remember getting tired of waiting for online games to load and just downloading simulator games from the Big Fish Games website instead, only to be disappointed after finding out that I was just being given access to trial versions of the title, and I needed to fork out money to pay for the full version. All of this is to say that it wasn't very easy to find entertainment options on the home PC when I was a kid, due to a number of reasons, mostly outside of my control. This situation pushed me towards a rather unconventional ally: Microsoft Paint. Whenever the internet wasn't working as good as I expected, I would simply spin up Paint and draw complete rubbish on the canvas. Of course, that wasn't always the intention, but it usually happened when I messed up drawing a straight line or something, and then I would give up on that particular piece and simply draw a random collection of objects. Microsoft Paint was extremely accessible and easy to use. Even if you weren't an artist, you could quickly understand the tools at your disposal and how to leverage them on a canvas. The absolute breadth on offer ensured that each painting was truly unique, as you could utilize various combinations of tools like the pencil, paint, spray paint, and more to truly personalize your creation. Since I wasn't particularly good at drawing both on digital screen or a physical screen, I remember that my main style of art would be to insert a bunch of randomly intersecting lines and then fill them with random colors through the paint can. I have trying to replicate that art style in the latest version of Paint below, and as you can see, it's truly Pablo Picasso-esque. The human imagination truly knows no bounds Microsoft Paint kept me occupied for hours and was my best friend when video games on the home PC were inaccessible for one reason or the other. There was no academic or professional reason for which I would need to use Paint, but I still loved using it in my personal time, even if what I created wasn't worth being shown to anyone. It was simply fun. Fast-forward to today, and the situation is mostly the same. Now that I am almost 29 years old, and I still have no reason to use Microsoft Paint in a professional capacity. In fact, I don't even use it in a personal capacity, except to dabble with it from time to time, just to see if core functionalities are still intact. And I'm happy to say that I think Microsoft Paint still offers the same accessibility and inviting experience that it did to me a couple of decades ago, even though its UX has been refreshed and it's been integrated with Copilot features. Interestingly, things could have been a lot different, had Microsoft had its way. Microsoft Paint was marked for deprecation with the Windows 10 Fall Creators Update in 2017, and even began displaying a product retirement alert, urging customers to shift to Paint 3D instead. Fortunately, after consumer backlash, Microsoft reversed course on this decision, and Paint continues to be a native app inside Windows installations that can also be updated quite frequently through the Microsoft Store. Instead, Paint 3D ended up on the chopping block, which is for the better, I think. I have intermittently played around with Microsoft's refreshed Paint experience in the past few years, and I do think it has received worthwhile upgrades. the UI and the UX has been modernized while retaining core functionality, and the app is still fairly easy to use. It doesn't meet any of my use-cases, but I've never really had any use-cases ever, as described previously. Of course, the elephant in the room is the Copilot integration. Personally, I believe that this is one place where Copilot does make sense, environmental concerns aside. I know that a lot of creatives use AI to generate images, and while some may be using professional alternatives, Paint still offers a decent casual experience, with the power of Copilot. Of course, you do need to have a valid Microsoft 365 Copilot license and available credits to use it, but even if you don't, you still get the big Copilot button in the toolbar, unfortunately. All in all, I am glad that Microsoft Paint continues to be a native feature in Windows 11, and a piece of software that has evolved to meet modern needs without cutting off its own roots. It's just an iconic piece of Windows history that was an essential part of my childhood, and while I don't use it anymore, I'm just glad it is still there.
    • 2TB WD_Black SN7100 PCIe Gen4 NVMe SSD drops to its lowest price in over three months by Fiza Ali Amazon is currently offering the 2TB WD_Black SN7100 internal solid-state drive at its lowest price in over three months, so you may want to check it out, if you have been considering a storage upgrade, before the deal dries up (purchase link is toward the end of the article). Featuring a PCIe Gen 4.0 interface and M.2 2280 form factor, the SN7100 promises to deliver sequential read speeds of up to 7,250MB/s and sequential write speeds reaching 6,900MB/s, offering as much as a 35% improvement in performance compared with the previous generation. It also achieves random read speeds of 1,000,000 IOPS and random write speeds of 1,400,000 IOPS. The drive uses Western Digital’s TLC 3D NAND technology for reliable performance and is further supported by a five-year limited warranty. It also offers strong endurance, rated at up to 1,200TBW, making it suitable for demanding workloads such as gaming, content creation, and high-speed recording. Moreover, its DRAM-less architecture claims to improve power efficiency (the SSD relies on system memory for caching via HMB), while the WD_Black Dashboard software enables users to monitor drive health, install firmware updates, and activate Game Mode for potentially better performance. Finally, it operates within an operating temperature range of 0°C to 85°C, and can withstand storage temperatures from -40°C to 85°C. 2TB WD_Black SN7100 PCIe Gen4 NVMe SSD: $242.96 (Amazon US) Check this deal out if you want a 4TB option. Good to know This Amazon deal is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. Become a Prime member (for Students or SNAP) via Neowin Get Prime Access - Prime for half price (for qualifying Medicaid, EBT, SNAP) Subscribe to Prime Video, Audible Plus, Music Unlimited or Kindle Unlimited via Neowin As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
  • Recent Achievements

    • Week One Done
      Supreme Spray LV earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • One Month Later
      Genuinetonerink- Dubai earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • Week One Done
      Genuinetonerink- Dubai earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • One Year In
      hhgygy earned a badge
      One Year In
    • Week One Done
      AMV earned a badge
      Week One Done
  • Popular Contributors

    1. 1
      +primortal
      514
    2. 2
      +Edouard
      163
    3. 3
      PsYcHoKiLLa
      87
    4. 4
      Steven P.
      74
    5. 5
      Michael Scrip
      73
  • Tell a friend

    Love Neowin? Tell a friend!