Xbox One 50Hz TV signal judder explained


Recommended Posts

Also make sure to check for that info I mentioned earlier in the thread.

I did look at that and yes some in the US have seen the issue. That changes everything.

If its not related to the refresh rate, then this is definitely a bug and not tied to MS' delayed TV rollout for Europe. That should also mean that MS is working on a fix. I hope you have talked to MS directly about your issue.

I had been talking to a friend that has seen some freezing, but its when trying to view his htpc via the X1, not a cable box. Its definitely not a refresh rate issue.

Not everyone is having an issue and it seems to possibly be an hdcp/edid issue. Basically, the X1 is not properly identifying the device running to it and that leads to a loop of both devices checking each other over and over, resulting in freezing. It could also be related to the audio pass through portion. The X1 is using a 'beta' audio driver to support surround sound coming from your cable box/device. MS remarked that it was in beta because they discovered some cable boxes not playing nice with the X1 when outputting surround sound. That driver is unchecked by default in the settings section, but can be enabled.

Ok i have messed around with things and i still have the problem which makes watching TV unusable through the console, i haven't contacted MS yet as i wanted things to settle down first and give them a chance to fix this issue with a possible update.

 

Things i have tried:

 

Snapping an app while watching TV = picture still freezes

 

Swapping HDMI cables around = Picture still freezes

 

Turning off 'Instant On' = Picture still freezes

 

Changing my cable box to 720P output = Picture still freezes

 

Swearing at it = Picture still freezes

Ok i have messed around with things and i still have the problem which makes watching TV unusable through the console, i haven't contacted MS yet as i wanted things to settle down first and give them a chance to fix this issue with a possible update.

 

Things i have tried:

 

Snapping an app while watching TV = picture still freezes

 

Swapping HDMI cables around = Picture still freezes

 

Turning off 'Instant On' = Picture still freezes

 

Changing my cable box to 720P output = Picture still freezes

 

Swearing at it = Picture still freezes

 

Just call Microsoft, it could be a lemon and you'll be covered under warranty.

Ok i have messed around with things and i still have the problem which makes watching TV unusable through the console, i haven't contacted MS yet as i wanted things to settle down first and give them a chance to fix this issue with a possible update.

 

Things i have tried:

 

Snapping an app while watching TV = picture still freezes

 

Swapping HDMI cables around = Picture still freezes

 

Turning off 'Instant On' = Picture still freezes

 

Changing my cable box to 720P output = Picture still freezes

 

Swearing at it = Picture still freezes

Go into your X1 settings and check to see if its properly seeing the make and model of your tv and cable box.

I know you mentioned that your box was outputting stereo audio, but can you actually control the audio format that the the box pushes out? If so, I would make sure the setting is anything but DTS/Dolby Digital. Then, on the X1, there is a setting we can check.

The reason I'm asking you this is because some people that have had issues with freezing here in the US have narrowed it down to:

1. not properly registering their tv/cable box/receiver within the X1

2. the X1 not liking the audio format that the device is sending to it (Dolby Digital mostly)

-there is a setting that is off by default to enable Dolby Digital surround support via the hdmi-in (using a driver that is in beta)

Go into your X1 settings and check to see if its properly seeing the make and model of your tv and cable box.

I know you mentioned that your box was outputting stereo audio, but can you actually control the audio format that the the box pushes out? If so, I would make sure the setting is anything but DTS/Dolby Digital. Then, on the X1, there is a setting we can check.

The reason I'm asking you this is because some people that have had issues with freezing here in the US have narrowed it down to:

1. not properly registering their tv/cable box/receiver within the X1

2. the X1 not liking the audio format that the device is sending to it (Dolby Digital mostly)

-there is a setting that is off by default to enable Dolby Digital surround support via the hdmi-in (using a driver that is in beta)

Already checked the TV is set right on the x1.

In the UK we don't gave an option to select which cable box yet so can't change anything there.

The sound is set correctly on my cable box as I only use normal stereo.

Not sure what else I can try, is there a hard reset option on the x1? Although I don't want to have to download everything again.

back in the day between NTSC and PAL you could make an arguement for 50hz. when we went to digital signals and HDTV it should have been standardized.

It's probably been answered already in this 9-page thread but the likely reason why is because all Europe's back content (that's sitting on tape and even the digital stuff from before HDMI was standardised) is at 50Hz. If they created an HDMI design that insisted on 60Hz, then all old content would have to be "converted" or "interpolated" which would have made it look less than optimal (although probably not much these days considering US-created footage looks fine on our 50Hz broadcasts (because they would have been converted already) but still...

The Xbox feature of "pass-through" wasn't really thought out well. If it was full-screen then it'd be fine because the Xbox could simply switch from 60Hz to 50Hz but because the entire console setup (games, UI, etc.) runs at 60Hz for all regions, having some sort of picture-in-picture pass-through feature means that the main UI will keep on running in 60Hz and the picture being passed through will have to be "converted" on-the-fly and it will look shoddy (remember this is a ?500 console, not a ?10,000+ industrial-standard Hz converter that they use in the media industry).

It's something typical for Microsoft. They offer all services in the US, some in the UK too and if you go anywhere else (like mainland Europe, Belgium, where I live) you just lose out. On everything. And they delay stuff, other stuff isn't available, badly localized, ... And that's every consumer-oriented Microsoft division that does this.

Canada here. Can also confirm losing out. Possibly not as much as Europe, but everyone is secondary to the U.S.

Already checked the TV is set right on the x1.

In the UK we don't gave an option to select which cable box yet so can't change anything there.

The sound is set correctly on my cable box as I only use normal stereo.

Not sure what else I can try, is there a hard reset option on the x1? Although I don't want to have to download everything again.

But does your cable box tell you how that stereo audio is being pushed out? Sometimes it will list the actual format (Dolby Digital, AC-3, MP3, etc)

If you go into the tv settings on the X1 and then troubleshooting, you will see an unchecked box next to Surround sound input support (beta). I don't think this will affect anything since your box is only pushing stereo, but check the box and try it again. If it doesn't help, uncheck that box again.

Also, check the X1 'Display' settings. See if its set to output at 24bits and not say 30 or 36 bits. Also, what audio and video (1080p or 720p) format is it set to for output? If you wanted to try something else, you could change your cable box to 720p and then also change the X1 output to 720p and see if the behavior changes.

There is a reset for the TV settings. Its located in the troubleshooting section of the TV & OneGuide menu. You could try this as a last resort. You can also do a factory reset of the entire system under the 'System' menu in settings, although I don't think doing that is worth it.

We are definitely in long shot territory here, but these are possible causes of freezing video.

Canada here. Can also confirm losing out. Possibly not as much as Europe, but everyone is secondary to the U.S.

 

In Norway we have 1 terrestrial provider, 2 major satellite providers and 2 or 3 major cable providers, one of which provides content and tuners for locally owned cable networks. I'm not sure if there's one or two fiber tv providers. (well some of the cable providers also provide over hybrid fiber but that's not exactly the same).

 

this could probably be somewhat manageable. BUT all of these are more or less exclusive to Norway, the swedes right next to us, have the same amount, and a few more unique providers of their own, they even have multiple terrestrial providers I believe. 

 

So where as the US has a few cable providers, probably one terrestrial and I dunno hw many satellite providers. Europe has at least 5+ providers for each country, all unique to the country. That's an order of magnitude more providers and, in this case more importantly, tv boxes than the US. This is also why digital music and movie services and streaming services are so hard here. hundreds of companies already have and buy exclusive licenses in every little country. 

But does your cable box tell you how that stereo audio is being pushed out? Sometimes it will list the actual format (Dolby Digital, AC-3, MP3, etc)

If you go into the tv settings on the X1 and then troubleshooting, you will see an unchecked box next to Surround sound input support (beta). I don't think this will affect anything since your box is only pushing stereo, but check the box and try it again. If it doesn't help, uncheck that box again.

Also, check the X1 'Display' settings. See if its set to output at 24bits and not say 30 or 36 bits. Also, what audio and video (1080p or 720p) format is it set to for output? If you wanted to try something else, you could change your cable box to 720p and then also change the X1 output to 720p and see if the behavior changes.

There is a reset for the TV settings. Its located in the troubleshooting section of the TV & OneGuide menu. You could try this as a last resort. You can also do a factory reset of the entire system under the 'System' menu in settings, although I don't think doing that is worth it.

We are definitely in long shot territory here, but these are possible causes of freezing video.

There isn't anything telling me what the sound is on my cable box other than a box to select if I had a separate sound system which I don't.

I will test the beta sound idea tomorrow.

I have previously checked and tested all your other suggestions, thanks for finding the time to come up with ideas though.

There isn't anything telling me what the sound is on my cable box other than a box to select if I had a separate sound system which I don't.

I will test the beta sound idea tomorrow.

I have previously checked and tested all your other suggestions, thanks for finding the time to come up with ideas though.

Alright, no problem, just seeing what might be helpful.

so you already tried setting your cable box to 720 AND setting your X1 to 720 output?

Alright, no problem, just seeing what might be helpful.

so you already tried setting your cable box to 720 AND setting your X1 to 720 output?

Yes already tried that, tomorrow i will have another go with that beta idea and also i may turn 'auto film 1' mode back on and see what happens, then i will give up but keep a look out for news on this issue, then i can decide when to contact MS as i fear if i do it too soon i will be given the cold shoulder......ie TV is not supported in Europe at launch.

Disclaimer: I'm an Xbox Elite Team member for Microsoft Belgium, but I'm not blindly defending the Xbox One, but just explaining what's going on, and what to expect going forward. 

 

It's pretty bad you have to qualify this..

 

People have their pitch forks out for MS on this one..

Yes already tried that, tomorrow i will have another go with that beta idea and also i may turn 'auto film 1' mode back on and see what happens, then i will give up but keep a look out for news on this issue, then i can decide when to contact MS as i fear if i do it too soon i will be given the cold shoulder......ie TV is not supported in Europe at launch.

That sounds like a good plan.

Now just so I'm clear, when this whole thing started, didn't you say that the freezing issue was much less pronounced? If so, do you remember when it got worse?

That sounds like a good plan.

Now just so I'm clear, when this whole thing started, didn't you say that the freezing issue was much less pronounced? If so, do you remember when it got worse?

Yes it was very watchable over the weekend and got far far worse yesterday and today..........very strange.

 

Anyway Eurogamer have picked up on the judder issue now too which i am thinking is still my problem although it is affecting me worse for some reason.

 

http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/2013-11-25-xbox-one-tv-integration-suffers-noticeable-judder-in-uk

Yes it was very watchable over the weekend and got far far worse yesterday and today..........very strange.

 

Anyway Eurogamer have picked up on the judder issue now too which i am thinking is still my problem although it is affecting me worse for some reason.

 

http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/2013-11-25-xbox-one-tv-integration-suffers-noticeable-judder-in-uk

That's the part that puzzles me.

How in the world does it get worse? Its a constant thing, either its always bad or not at all. The fact that it got progressively worse makes me think this is not just an issue of 50hz vs 60hz. We are missing a variable I think.

Plus, you said the judder issue is gone for you, only the freezing issue remains. Strange stuff. I'm interested in hearing back from MikeChipshop since he has seen with his own eyes, a setup using a new Sky Box that has no visible judder and no freezing. That could provide us with some answers.

Yes the judder went when i turned off Auto Film 1 in my Sony TV settings, so i am still scratching my head, but in alot of threads people say they're suffering from both.

Very strange.

I know you said you didn't want to contact MS yet, but I really don't see the harm in it. They need to hear from anyone directly affected and I think the more report it, the quicker MS will respond.

You can also contact them again later if needed. I just think you should contact MS through multiple channels and get some info from them.

 

 

Xbone that sold to non-U.S/japs should've sticker saying that non-U.S consumer must use the xbone device with a U.S compliant TV.

Dude, at least get your silly jokes right: U.S. compliant cable box, not TV :laugh:

There isn't anything telling me what the sound is on my cable box other than a box to select if I had a separate sound system which I don't.

I will test the beta sound idea tomorrow.

I have previously checked and tested all your other suggestions, thanks for finding the time to come up with ideas though.

Well this is very strange, I just thought I would plug the cable box in through the x1 just to see how bad it is as I go to bed and the damn thing seems to work perfectly! And I haven't changed any settings!?!?

I have even tried turn everything off again and on in different orders and not once has it frozen, not sure what to make of this but will report back tomorrow evening if it still hasn't gone ###### up again!

Well this is very strange, I just thought I would plug the cable box in through the x1 just to see how bad it is as I go to bed and the damn thing seems to work perfectly! And I haven't changed any settings!?!?

I have even tried turn everything off again and on in different orders and not once has it frozen, not sure what to make of this but will report back tomorrow evening if it still hasn't gone ###### up again!

:s  ok that is weird.

 

This is not a 50hz vs 60hz issue.  You would not be getting this behavior if that was the problem.

 

It would be awesome if it just worked now.  Then maybe you can retrace your steps to figure out if anything you did fixed it.

 

I will note that people that were running into the occasional freezing issue when plugging in a pc to use media center on the X1 found that simply unplugging and replugging the hdmi cable would fix the problem.  If it turns out to be the fix for you as well, this points to an hdmi handshake or hdcp issue, not a refresh rate issue.

:s ok that is weird.

This is not a 50hz vs 60hz issue. You would not be getting this behavior if that was the problem.

It would be awesome if it just worked now. Then maybe you can retrace your steps to figure out if anything you did fixed it.

I will note that people that were running into the occasional freezing issue when plugging in a pc to use media center on the X1 found that simply unplugging and replugging the hdmi cable would fix the problem. If it turns out to be the fix for you as well, this points to an hdmi handshake or hdcp issue, not a refresh rate issue.

All I did was take the cable box HDMI lead from the back of the TV and plugged it into the Xbox HDMI in, then said Xbox on, then when that was fully on switched the cable box on, normally I always got a freeze in the first second but I never got it this time. I have tried to break it all again by switching things off in different orders but it won't break, I don't plan on pulling the HDMI cable though.

Will report back tomorrow, maybe my house heating was making it freeze as it is cold now! Lol

This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Posts

    • AdGuard Family lifetime deal now only $14.97 by Steven Parker Today's highlighted Neowin Deal comes via our Apps + Software section, where you can get a lifetime subscription and save 91% on a lifetime AdGuard Family Plan. AdGuard is a unique program that has all the necessary features for what they claim to be "the best web experience." The software combines the an advanced ad blocker, a privacy protection module, and a parental control tool—all working in one app. This software deals with annoying ads, hides your data from a multitude of trackers, protects you from malware attacks, and even lets you restrict your kids from accessing inappropriate content. Install AdGuard and see the internet as it was supposed to be: clean and safe. Get rid of annoying banners, pop-ups & video ads once and for all Hide your data from the multitude of trackers & activity analyzers that swarm the web Avoid fraudulent and phishing website and malware attacks Protect your kids online by restricting them from accessing inappropriate & adult content Good to know Family Plan Length of access: lifetime This plan is only available to new users Redemption deadline: redeem your code within 30 days of purchase Max number of devices: 9 Access options: desktop & mobile Software version: AdGuard Family Updates included A lifetime subscription of AdGuard Family Plan normally costs $169.99, but this deal can be yours for just $14.97, that's a saving of $157.02. For full terms, specifications, and license info please click the link below. Get this AdGuard Family lifetime deal for just $14.97 (was $169.99) Although priced in U.S. dollars, this deal is available for digital purchase worldwide. As an online publication, Neowin too relies on ads for operating costs and, if you use an ad blocker, we'd appreciate being whitelisted. In addition, we have an ad-free subscription for $28 a year, which is another way to show support! Support queries If you have queries or need support for any of the Neowin Deals, please use the contact form here. Neowin Deals are managed and sold by StackCommerce who represent Neowin on an affiliate basis. Why we post these deals We post these because we earn commission on each sale so as not to rely solely on advertising, which many of our readers block. It all helps toward paying staff reporters, servers and hosting costs. So for those that keep moaning and complaining, be thankful we're still online for you to even do that. Other ways to support Neowin Whitelist Neowin by not blocking our ads Create a free member account to see fewer ads Make a donation to support our day to day running costs Subscribe to Neowin - for $14 a year, or $28 a year for an ad-free experience Disclosure: Neowin benefits from revenue of each sale made through our branded deals site powered by StackCommerce.
    • Passkeys: Think of them like a broken heart necklace. Imagine one of those heart necklaces that breaks into two matching pieces. One person keeps one half, and the other person keeps the other half. With passkeys, the website has one half, and you have the other half. If the website gets hacked and someone steals its half, that stolen piece is useless by itself. It cannot unlock your account without your matching half. This particular heart necklace is one of a kind, there is only one in existence. Your half of the necklace has to be stored somewhere. It might be stored on your phone, tablet, computer, security key, or a password manager that can sync it between all your devices. A security key is a small physical device that you keep with you, kind of like a house key, car key, or flash drive. I would not usually recommend a security key as the first option for the average person. For most people, it is easier to use their phone, computer, or a password manager that can sync passkeys between their devices. A security key is more like a spare key you keep in a safe place, just in case you lose access to your other devices or your password manager. Some security keys plug into your computer. Some plug into your phone or tablet. Some get tapped against your device. The idea is simple: a security key can hold another passkey for the same website. Think of it like creating a second one-of-a-kind heart necklace for the same account. One necklace could be paired with your password manager, while another necklace could be paired with your security key. That means the website has more than one matching half on file. One half matches the passkey in your password manager. Another half matches the passkey stored on your security key. So, if you lose access to your phone, computer, or password manager, you would still be able to log in using the passkey stored on your security key. Think of it like keeping an extra special necklace piece on a tiny keychain, stored somewhere safe. The website still has the matching half for that security key, but your half is safely stored inside the little key. A passkey does not automatically exist on every device you own. It lives wherever you save it. If your half is stored on one device, then that device is the one that has the matching piece. For example, if you create the passkey on your Windows computer and it is only saved to that computer, your iPhone does not automatically have that same half. If you create it on your iPhone and it only stays on that iPhone, your Android phone does not automatically have it either. That is where password managers come in. A password manager can act like a protected jewelry box for your passkeys. Instead of your half of the necklace being locked to only one device, the password manager can securely sync that half to your other approved devices. For example, Apple Passwords and iCloud Keychain can sync passkeys between your Apple devices. Google Password Manager can sync passkeys with your Google account. But password managers such as 1Password and Bitwarden can sync passkeys between everything, your phones, tablets and computers. Now, you might ask: “What happens if I lose access to the device that has my passkey?” That depends on where your passkey was saved and what recovery options the website gives you. If your passkey was synced through a password manager, you may be able to sign in from another device that has access to that same password manager. For example, if your passkey is saved in iCloud Keychain, Google Password Manager, 1Password, or Bitwarden, another approved device may still have access to it. If your passkey was saved only on one phone, computer, or security key, and you lose that device, then you may not have your half of the necklace anymore. In that case, you would usually need to use the website’s backup login or account recovery options. A lot of websites that support passkeys still let you fall back to your regular password. So if you lose access to your passkey, the site may still let you log in with your password, a code sent to your email, a text message, a recovery code, or some other account recovery process. That is convenient, but it is also important to understand: if the website still allows password login, then your password still matters. Passkeys are safer than passwords, but if your account still has a password as a backup, you should still use a strong, unique password and turn on two-factor authentication if the website offers it. This is why it is a good idea to have more than one safe way back into important accounts. For example, you might keep your passkey in a syncing password manager, add a second trusted device, save recovery codes somewhere safe, or set up a backup security key. A passkey is very secure, but just like a real key, you need a backup plan in case you lose access to it. Now, you might ask: “What stops a hacker from copying my half of the necklace?” That’s the important part: your half is protected. It is not something you type in, and it is not something the website gets to keep. Think of your half as being locked inside a tiny safe on your phone, computer, security key, or password manager. That safe only opens when you approve it with your fingerprint, face, PIN, or device password. When you log in, the website does not need to see your half. It only needs proof that your half matches its half. Your actual half is not handed over to the website. This is different from a password. With a password, you type the secret into the website. If you type it into a fake website, the hacker now has it. With a passkey, you are not typing your secret into the website. Your device is proving you have the matching half without giving the half away. That also helps protect you from fake websites. If someone makes a fake login page that looks like the real site, your device can tell it is not the real match. It will not use your passkey there. Now, could someone use your passkey if they stole your device, got into your password manager, or somehow unlocked the safe that holds your half? Yes, that is why your device password, PIN, fingerprint, face unlock, and password manager security still matter. But a hacker cannot just steal your passkey from the website or trick you into typing it into a fake page like they can with a password. That is why passkeys are safer than passwords. The two matching pieces have to come together, like two lovebirds who were once separated and are finally reunited.
    • Newegg offers insane combo deal on Amazon Prime Day 2026 that beats Steam Machine by Sayan Sen Building a PC is undoubtedly difficult nowadays but with this epic combo deal, Newegg is trying to make it as easy for you as it is possible. If you are making a new one or even upgrading an old system to a new Windows 11 device, this combo bundle is truly unmissable as you get AMD's Ryzen 9800X3D, a compatible X870 motherboard, a 240mm AIO liquid cooler and finally a Samsung 990 PRO SSD all for under $1000 (purchase link under the specs table down below). This should beat out the newly launched Steam Machine from Valve in terms of performance and performance per dollar especially if you are willing to set Linux up on it. Essentially with this combo you will get the AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 8-core 3D V cache CPU, Samsung's 990 PRO 2TB NVMe SSD, the MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX Motherboard, and finally the Cooler Master Elite Liquid 240. Thanks to that massive vertically stacked L3 cache, the X3D desktop processors, including the 9800X3D, also come with the benefit of not needing fast memory. Even DDR5-5600 should be plenty for it. The technical specifications of the Ryzen 7 9800X3D are given in the table below: Specification Value Architecture Zen 5 Cores / Threads 8 / 16 Base Clock 4.7 GHz Max Boost Clock Up to 5.2 GHz L1 Cache 640 KB L2 Cache 8 MB L3 Cache 96 MB Total Cache 104 MB CPU Core Process TSMC 4nm FinFET I/O Die Process TSMC 6nm FinFET Socket AM5 Default TDP 120W Max Temperature (Tjmax) 95°C Thermal Solution Not included Memory Type DDR5 Max Capacity 256 GB Memory Speeds 2x1R: DDR5-5600 2x2R: DDR5-5600 4x1R: DDR5-3600 4x2R: DDR5-3600 PCIe Version PCIe 5.0 PCIe Lanes (Total/Usable) 28 / 24 USB 3.2 Gen 2 (10Gbps) 4 USB 2.0 1 Graphics Cores 2 CU RDNA 2 Frequency 2200 MHz DisplayPort over USB-C Yes Overclocking Unlocked Up next we have the tech specs for the MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI Motherboard: Specification Value Chipset AMD X870 CPU Support AMD Ryzen 9000 / 8000 / 7000 Series Desktop Processors Socket AM5 Memory Slots 4 × DDR5 UDIMM Maximum Memory Capacity 256GB Memory Support DDR5 8400–5600 MT/s (OC), DDR5 5600–4800 MT/s (JEDEC) Integrated Graphics Outputs 1 × HDMI 2.1 FRL (up to 8K 60Hz) 2 × USB4 Type-C with DisplayPort 1.4 HBR3 (up to 4K 60Hz) Expansion Slots PCI_E1: PCIe 5.0 x16 (CPU) PCI_E2: PCIe 3.0 x1 (Chipset) PCI_E3: PCIe 4.0 x4 (Chipset) Audio Realtek ALC4080 Codec 7.1-Channel USB High Performance Audio Supports up to 32-bit/384kHz playback on front panel S/PDIF output M.2 Slots 4 × M.2 M2_1: PCIe 5.0 x4 (CPU, 22110/2280) M2_2: PCIe 5.0 x4 (CPU, 2280/2260) M2_3: PCIe 4.0 x2 (Chipset, 2280/2260) M2_4: PCIe 4.0 x4 (Chipset, 2280/2260) SATA Ports 4 × SATA 6Gb/s RAID Support RAID 0, 1, 5, 10 for M.2 NVMe storage devices Rear USB Ports 4 × USB 2.0 3 × USB 5Gbps Type-A 2 × USB 10Gbps Type-A 1 × USB 10Gbps Type-C 2 × USB4 40Gbps Type-C Front USB Headers 4 × USB 2.0 4 × USB 5Gbps Type-A 1 × USB 20Gbps Type-C LAN Realtek 8126-CG 5G LAN Wireless Wi-Fi 7 (M.2 Key-E module pre-installed) Supports 2.4GHz / 5GHz / 6GHz bands Up to 5.8Gbps Supports 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac/ax/be Bluetooth Bluetooth 5.4, MLO, 4KQAM Internal Power Connectors 1 × 24-pin ATX Power 2 × CPU Power Connectors 1 × PCIe 8-pin Power Connector Fan Headers 1 × CPU Fan 1 × Combo Fan (Pump/System) 6 × System Fan RGB Headers 3 × Addressable V2 RGB (JARGB_V2) 1 × RGB LED (JRGB) Other Internal Headers 1 × EZ Conn-header 2 × Front Panel Headers 1 × Chassis Intrusion 1 × Front Audio 1 × TPM 2.0 Header Debug Features 4 × EZ Debug LEDs 1 × EZ Digit Debug LED Rear I/O Ports Clear CMOS Button Flash BIOS Button HDMI 2 × USB 40Gbps Type-C 1 × USB 10Gbps Type-C 4 × USB 10Gbps Type-A 3 × USB 5Gbps Type-A 4 × USB 2.0 5G LAN Port Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Antenna Connectors Audio Connectors Form Factor ATX The Samsung 990 PRO is a PCIe Gen4 NVMe SSD and still one of the fastest drives available today for under $500. Speaking of fast, sequential reads and writes are rated at 7450 MB/s and 6900 MB/s, respectively. The random throughputs for reads and writes are 1400K IOPS and 1550K IOPS, respectively. The 990 PRO is based on Samsung's 7th Gen V-NAND flash, and it too is TLC. It packs 2 gigs of LPDDR4 DRAM cache, which helps the random performance. The endurance rating for this is 1200 TBW (terabytes written), which should be sufficient for most users. The Samsung 990 PRO is compatible with the PlayStation 5, but if you are going to use the 990 PRO on a PC, check out the Samsung Magician app that lets you track your drive's health, update its firmware, customize various settings, and more. The tech specs are given below: Specification Value Interface PCIe Gen 4.0 x4, NVMe 2.0 Form Factor M.2 2280 Controller Samsung In-house Controller NAND Flash 3D TLC DRAM Cache 2GB LPDDR4 Sequential Read (Max) 7,450 MB/s Sequential Write (Max) 6,900 MB/s Random Read (4K) Up to 1,400,000 IOPS Random Write (4K) Up to 1,550,000 IOPS TBW (Endurance) 1,200 TBW MTBF 1,500,000 hours Operating Temperature 0°C to 70°C Storage Temperature -40°C to 85°C Shock Resistance 1,500G / 0.5ms Heatsink No Get the combo deal at this link: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D, Samsung 990 PRO 2TB, MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI motherboard, Cooler Master Elite Liquid 240: $784.99 + $25 off with promo code FTTF77: $759.99 (Sold and Shipped by Newegg US) Good to know This Newegg deal is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. Become a Prime member (for Students or SNAP) via Neowin Get Prime Access - Prime for half price (for qualifying Medicaid, EBT, SNAP) Subscribe to Prime Video, Audible Plus, Music Unlimited or Kindle Unlimited via Neowin As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
    • I heard from a lot of people that driver support for the latest games when RDNA first came out (Radeon 5000 series) was pretty bad, but if you didn't buy the card on day one, or were not trying to play the latest titles, then you were isolated from that issue. Other than that, it's been good and only getting better.
  • Recent Achievements

    • One Month Later
      timbobit earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • One Month Later
      nates earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • Week One Done
      Almohandis earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • Rookie
      dorf went up a rank
      Rookie
    • First Post
      mike_rumble earned a badge
      First Post
  • Popular Contributors

    1. 1
      +primortal
      469
    2. 2
      +Edouard
      165
    3. 3
      PsYcHoKiLLa
      104
    4. 4
      Michael Scrip
      87
    5. 5
      Steven P.
      71
  • Tell a friend

    Love Neowin? Tell a friend!