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Hello folks,

 

Hopefully I am in the right section as this issue appeared after my GPU upgrade from a RTX 2080Ti to RTX 3090.

I am encountering an issue with one my most played games (World of Tanks), the client is crashing into a black screen at random times (sound and other programs still run in the background - can use TeamSpeak for example).

This issue only happens in World of Tanks and is reproductible while in battle, does not happen while in idle or just browsing around in the garage interface. No other game I have tried so far gave me any crash - DX11 or 12.

*Did notice a weird thing that went away after the last driver update (v.461.09), the in-game gamma settings were greyed out - so I thought I’d mention this anyways.

I am at a loss here as I have run out of ideas and I can’t seem to figure out if this is an issue with hardware or is it somehow tied to the way the game works.

The crashes began mid-November and since then I have contacted the player and technical support teams @Wargaming – the company behind World of Tanks creating multiple tickets that lead nowhere so far.

My rig config – pc part picker link here.

Age of the computer (hardware) ranging from new – GPU to 1 and a half years old for most of the system hardware.

OS wise the system was installed around 08/19.

 

Here is a list of things I tried after reading around on the internet on various forums and asking all my tech-savvy friends for help:

§  Updated/Rolled back the GPU drivers using DDU in Safe mode – Not connected to the internet / Windows Drivers Updates off > tried the versions (Studio and Game Ready): 442.74*did not recognize my GPU as expected* - 456.38 - 457.30 - 460.97 (beta) and the latest drivers as well - now running Game Ready 461.09.

§  Made sure my temps are low and there is no overheating - at an ambient temp of roughly 23-4 C degrees - I get to a maximum 71C on GPU and 68/70 CPU side during stress test or even lower temps when just under intense gaming (CoD – Cold War / Metro Exodus for example) - and high 50 C CPU / low 60C on the GPU.

§  Cleaned the registry using CCleaner.

§  Modified the page file system to a higher value and reverted to windows default (32 GB of physical RAM memory should be more than enough- but hey I gave it a shot anyway)

§  Updated the latest chipset drivers from AMD site.

§  Updated the GPU firmware and latest Aorus software.

§  Updated to the latest BIOS (now running F31j)

§  Disabled the XMP Profile in BIOS / and using all stock settings in BIOS.

§  Updated to the latest Creative Sound Blaster sound card drivers

§  Used the windows default recommended sound settings (suggested by the Wargaming Support team)

§  Rebooted my router & network devices for a few minutes (suggested by the Wargaming Support team)

§  In Nvidia Control Panel set the game to use Maximum Performance mode as some user recommended in a similar issue with Apex Legends.

§  Disabled G-Sync + gave it a go with V Sync on and off (Using a G-Sync monitor @ 1440p 165hz)

§  Downclocked my GPU using the Aorus tool to the reference RTX 3090 specs.

§  Enabled and tested Low Latency mode

§  Updated to the latest chipset from the AMD site.

§  Tried running the game with no Antialiasing / Off in NVCP as well.

§  Launched the game in Windowed - Windowed borderless - Fullscreen

§  Lowered the resolution from 1440p to 1080p and 720p

§  Tried to run the game with the lowest graphical settings in all the above resolutions

§  Since the game client has the option – tried both x32/x64 clients

§  Tried Compatibility mode Windows 7 & 8

§  Launched the game in safe mode

§  Used both HD and SD client (lower end machines version)

§  Ran the game integrity check (suggested by the Wargaming Support team)

§  Added the game as a firewall exception (suggested by the Wargaming Support team)

§  Removed the Appdata WoT folder that contains all the game settings (suggested by the Wargaming Support team)

§  Reinstalled the game multiple times

§  Made sure the DirectX Suite is up to date

§  Uninstalled Easy Tune Engine Service/ Team Viewer (as suggested by the Wargaming Support team)

§  Disabled & Uninstalled iCue / Aorus Software / RGB Fusion 2 (suggested by the Wargaming Support team)

§  Clean booted - Windows Default Only

§  Deleted the cache Nvidia Shader Cache

§  Disabled onboard sound in Device Manager

§  Used a TDR Manipulator  and disabled / reenabled it.

§  Updated my Windows 10 to the latest build 20H2

§  Rather recently replaced my PSU unit (end of 2019)

§  Ran a 3D Mark benchmark (Firestrike Demo) while logging with Hwinfo64 * Sensors Only – Log here (3D Mark Results + Hwinfo64 Log) (advised by the user Greybear on Nvidia Forums)

After the latest tests (here) advised by the user Greybear  in my post  on the Nvidia Forums the readings in the log file he points out there is an anomaly, you can see it in the Images in the 12v LOW column "" 0 "" .

Open the Google Drive Link above access the .csv file and scroll across to column LV - MD - see all the 0 entries.... notice that the 12 readings appear in the wrong column on some of the 0 reading in the LV column.

He recommended that I set the RAIL performance to SINGLE RAIL on my PSU.

 

My knowledge on PSU’s is quite limited - Any thoughts on that?

 

*I will redo the benchmarks and log the info as soon as I get home from work. *

After digging for any leads in my crash logs, I found the following information into the game’s crash log and Windows Event logger:

 

Python Log here World of Tanks client:

INFO: [Info] FATAL ERROR: RenderSystemDeviceAccess::genericInterfaceCallFailureHandler - device in unsupported state: The device has been removed.”

 

This seems to be synchronized time stamp wise - with the report from the Windows Event logger that points to the nvlddmkm file stopping to work:

 

" Event id - 1062600691 in Source "nvlddmkm" cannot be found. The local computer may not have the necessary registry information or message DLL files to display the message, or you may not have permission to access them. The following information is part of the event: \Device\Video3 Graphics Exception on (GPC6, PPC 0)"

I have tried capturing a screenshot right after the black screen crash to see if it pops any information but the screenshots are black.

 

I am aware that this is a long post, but I am still having hope that there is a way to find a fix for this.

Thank you very much for your time and patience.

Any help is highly appreciated.

Edited by Enthyos
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Looks like a pretty comprehensive list of things you've tried.

 

The one step which may be missing is a completely clean from scratch driver install (although you mention using Safe mode so may have already done this). Use DDU https://www.techspot.com/drivers/driver/file/information/17830/ to completely remove any old drivers then install 461.09 with default settings.

3 hours ago, Ixion said:

Looks like a pretty comprehensive list of things you've tried.

 

The one step which may be missing is a completely clean from scratch driver install (although you mention using Safe mode so may have already done this). Use DDU https://www.techspot.com/drivers/driver/file/information/17830/ to completely remove any old drivers then install 461.09 with default settings.

Hello @Ixion, thank you for your reply, i did use DDU to reinstall my drivers.

Unfortunetly that does not seem to help with my issue.

 

I have issues with Rainbow Six from time to time, and it's always seems to coincide with an update for the game.

 

There was an older driver that's been the most reliable.  I see you tried, that, though.  Have you contacted their support and sent them logs?

44 minutes ago, jnelsoninjax said:

Honestly I might say that it is the game itself, since you said you have not had any issues with other games. Is the game up to date?

Yes, and the support team concluded that it's my system that needs to be checked... :(

32 minutes ago, farmeunit said:

I have issues with Rainbow Six from time to time, and it's always seems to coincide with an update for the game.

 

There was an older driver that's been the most reliable.  I see you tried, that, though.  Have you contacted their support and sent them logs?

Yes been doing that back and forth ever since it first happened. Had no issues with my 2080Ti before.

 

If the game is that important to you, I'd get a spare SSD, take all the drives out of my computer. Reinstall windows on the spare SSD then install WoT. Nothing else.  If that works, well you know the issue isn't hardware related. If it still fails, you only have a few options and I'd start with putting the 2080Ti back in and test.  If that works either your 3090 is bad or the PSU is sufficient (or just crappy) for that 3090. Your parkpicker link isn't there so we cant see your system. 

3 hours ago, Biscuits Brown said:

If the game is that important to you, I'd get a spare SSD, take all the drives out of my computer. Reinstall windows on the spare SSD then install WoT. Nothing else.  If that works, well you know the issue isn't hardware related. If it still fails, you only have a few options and I'd start with putting the 2080Ti back in and test.  If that works either your 3090 is bad or the PSU is sufficient (or just crappy) for that 3090. Your parkpicker link isn't there so we cant see your system. 

Hello Biscuits Brown,

Appreciate the support here, i have not thought about doing that, pretty neat ideea.

I will give it a  try and come back with some feedback after the install is done.

Unfortunetly i do not have the 2080ti anymore, but i guess i could try and find someone willing to help me out for further testing near me.

Pc build here. - Was i wrong to go for the Corsair RM1000x psu ?

Much appreciated.

 

In the meantime do you guys have by chance any troubleshooting experience when it comes to  the nvlddmkm.sys error?

 

Since it's only one game causing the issue and the issue is related to the video card driver really points to something the game is doing that is conflicting with your setup. I'm still thinking the fresh install will help isolate this. I'd even go so far as to install windows and NOT install any NVidia drivers. Just let windows install what it wants then install WoT and give it a play. Unless you received a bad PSU, the Corsair should be MORE than sufficient. 

Hello,

 

The PSU should be adequate.  From looking at this photo of it:

image.png.a00246fe56e979af435f27403cfca79d.png

the power supply has connectors for three 8-pin PCIe cables.

 

From reading this description of the video card:  https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N3090AORUS-X-24GD/sp#sp the video card has connectors for three 8-ping PCIe cables.

 

Have you verified that each of the three separate connectors on the video card has its own cable going to it from the power supply, without any splitters or double-headed cables being used?

 

Regards,

 

Aryeh Goretsky

 

2 hours ago, goretsky said:

Hello,

 

The PSU should be adequate.  From looking at this photo of it:

image.png.a00246fe56e979af435f27403cfca79d.png

the power supply has connectors for three 8-pin PCIe cables.

 

From reading this description of the video card:  https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N3090AORUS-X-24GD/sp#sp the video card has connectors for three 8-ping PCIe cables.

 

Have you verified that each of the three separate connectors on the video card has its own cable going to it from the power supply, without any splitters or double-headed cables being used?

 

Regards,

 

Aryeh Goretsky

 

Thank you for your reply Mr.Goretsky

I was aware of this potential issue as i have some experience with building PC's and the limitations of a  8-pin cable, so i went for 3 separate 8-pin PCIe cables.

This weekend i will try and see if  the solution proposed by  Biscuits Brown helps in any way and proceed to a clean install. 

The more i read on the internet the more i fear that i might be one of those plagued by the "black screen with sound + 100% fan  speed RTX series" club.

What bugs me is that so far i do not experience crashing in anything else.

Hello,

My next suggestion would be to check with Gigabyte.  Perhaps there is a known issue specific to the video card with another component in the computer that they are aware of, or you received one from a batch with some faulty component known to be mixed in.

 

Regards,

 

Aryeh Goretsky

 

  • 2 months later...

I know it has been a long time since my last post, unfortunately the issue is not fixed and the Gigabyte Support team redirected me to my local vendor whom offered me a refund but not a replacement due to the low stocks so I'd be at a loss given the price hike.

 

Meanwhile after following the recommendations of a fellow user JoeRambo @ Anandtech Forums to use Riva Tunner Statistics Server and even more testing over the past 3 months with the Aorus Engine I did end up having a stable GPU while playing World of Tanks.

While using RTSS I only ended up having partial success, I kept trying to find a solution and ran different clocks and configurations with the Aorus Engine.

Stable settings I am currently using with an alternate profile in Aorus Engine – GPU Clock 1625 / Memory Clock 19502 / Fan Speed Auto / Power Target 100 @ a Target temp of 83 degrees Celsius.

The issue occurred only once since then while playing League of Legends but didn’t reproduce since and i was using this custom World of Tanks profile not the standard Aorus Extreme OC – (GPU Boost 1860Mhz / Memory Clock 19500).

No other games or workload like rendering crashed my GPU, so I decided to keep the card a while more, at least until the availability issues are resolved.

Hopefully this workaround will help somebody else out there.

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    • Passkeys: Think of them like a broken heart necklace. Imagine one of those heart necklaces that breaks into two matching pieces. One person keeps one half, and the other person keeps the other half. With passkeys, the website has one half, and you have the other half. If the website gets hacked and someone steals its half, that stolen piece is useless by itself. It cannot unlock your account without your matching half. This particular heart necklace is one of a kind, there is only one in existence. Your half of the necklace has to be stored somewhere. It might be stored on your phone, tablet, computer, security key, or a password manager that can sync it between all your devices. A security key is a small physical device that you keep with you, kind of like a house key, car key, or flash drive. I would not usually recommend a security key as the first option for the average person. For most people, it is easier to use their phone, computer, or a password manager that can sync passkeys between their devices. A security key is more like a spare key you keep in a safe place, just in case you lose access to your other devices or your password manager. Some security keys plug into your computer. Some plug into your phone or tablet. Some get tapped against your device. The idea is simple: a security key can hold another passkey for the same website. Think of it like creating a second one-of-a-kind heart necklace for the same account. One necklace could be paired with your password manager, while another necklace could be paired with your security key. That means the website has more than one matching half on file. One half matches the passkey in your password manager. Another half matches the passkey stored on your security key. So, if you lose access to your phone, computer, or password manager, you would still be able to log in using the passkey stored on your security key. Think of it like keeping an extra special necklace piece on a tiny keychain, stored somewhere safe. The website still has the matching half for that security key, but your half is safely stored inside the little key. A passkey does not automatically exist on every device you own. It lives wherever you save it. If your half is stored on one device, then that device is the one that has the matching piece. For example, if you create the passkey on your Windows computer and it is only saved to that computer, your iPhone does not automatically have that same half. If you create it on your iPhone and it only stays on that iPhone, your Android phone does not automatically have it either. That is where password managers come in. A password manager can act like a protected jewelry box for your passkeys. Instead of your half of the necklace being locked to only one device, the password manager can securely sync that half to your other approved devices. For example, Apple Passwords and iCloud Keychain can sync passkeys between your Apple devices. Google Password Manager can sync passkeys with your Google account. But password managers such as 1Password and Bitwarden can sync passkeys between everything, your phones, tablets and computers. Now, you might ask: “What happens if I lose access to the device that has my passkey?” That depends on where your passkey was saved and what recovery options the website gives you. If your passkey was synced through a password manager, you may be able to sign in from another device that has access to that same password manager. For example, if your passkey is saved in iCloud Keychain, Google Password Manager, 1Password, or Bitwarden, another approved device may still have access to it. If your passkey was saved only on one phone, computer, or security key, and you lose that device, then you may not have your half of the necklace anymore. In that case, you would usually need to use the website’s backup login or account recovery options. A lot of websites that support passkeys still let you fall back to your regular password. So if you lose access to your passkey, the site may still let you log in with your password, a code sent to your email, a text message, a recovery code, or some other account recovery process. That is convenient, but it is also important to understand: if the website still allows password login, then your password still matters. Passkeys are safer than passwords, but if your account still has a password as a backup, you should still use a strong, unique password and turn on two-factor authentication if the website offers it. This is why it is a good idea to have more than one safe way back into important accounts. For example, you might keep your passkey in a syncing password manager, add a second trusted device, save recovery codes somewhere safe, or set up a backup security key. A passkey is very secure, but just like a real key, you need a backup plan in case you lose access to it. Now, you might ask: “What stops a hacker from copying my half of the necklace?” That’s the important part: your half is protected. It is not something you type in, and it is not something the website gets to keep. Think of your half as being locked inside a tiny safe on your phone, computer, security key, or password manager. That safe only opens when you approve it with your fingerprint, face, PIN, or device password. When you log in, the website does not need to see your half. It only needs proof that your half matches its half. Your actual half is not handed over to the website. This is different from a password. With a password, you type the secret into the website. If you type it into a fake website, the hacker now has it. With a passkey, you are not typing your secret into the website. Your device is proving you have the matching half without giving the half away. That also helps protect you from fake websites. If someone makes a fake login page that looks like the real site, your device can tell it is not the real match. It will not use your passkey there. Now, could someone use your passkey if they stole your device, got into your password manager, or somehow unlocked the safe that holds your half? Yes, that is why your device password, PIN, fingerprint, face unlock, and password manager security still matter. But a hacker cannot just steal your passkey from the website or trick you into typing it into a fake page like they can with a password. That is why passkeys are safer than passwords. The two matching pieces have to come together, like two lovebirds who were once separated and are finally reunited.
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